Motor Slipping

partymarty

1 mW
Joined
Jun 26, 2009
Messages
17
My BL36 motor slips sometimes on steep hills and makes an terrible noise. Is the damaging the motor? Thanks.
 
It makes this loud noise but the axle is not moving and the wheel is not moving. Happens on steep hills.
 
if its the same BL36 motor I think it is, its a gearless hub motor, with only 1 moving part. The coils are attached to your axle, the magnets are glued to the ring the spokes lace into. there is nothing to slip.

They can start to growl, sometimes loudly when under heavy load and low RPMs. If thats the case, it isn't dangerous, but does mean the motor is struggling and will eventualy get hot.

But if the bike feels like it's losing power when it happens, or the sound isn't a growl, then maybe it's a geared hub motor. if thats the case, the gears could be blown.
 
yeah sounds like throttle stall/motor bogging... the 4011 I had did that sometimes under extreme loads on steep hills and shuddered/made an awful noise... try repeating the experiment with a little aggressive pedaling to help the motor and I bet the noise abates/goes away...
 
It was 45 degrees dirt path - I just got off and the motor is fine. The motor helps even when you are walking it!!!!
 
BTW, I was pedaling as aggressive as possible. The dudes at the bottom warned me it was steep!
 
partymarty said:
It was 45 degrees dirt path - I just got off and the motor is fine. The motor helps even when you are walking it!!!!

:twisted: Its growling cause its mad at you. 45 degrees is a 100% grade. most cars struggle on a 10% grade.

BL36 is similar to my Clyte 408, which would trip the overload on the controller with both middle fingers sticking up if I tried a 45 degree hill. My 4012 will do it, but it snarls at me and mutters things about my mother when it thinks I can't hear.
 
I had a bd 36 that slipped. But that motor was made different. The brushed motor has a two part inner core, with the magnets on it. When really hot, the outer part would expand and start slipping around the inner hub that had not expanded so much. But that shouldn't be possible with the bl. A stalled brushless hub motor may make a chattering sound, sort of an ERRRK noise when the magnets don't move as they would when the wheel is rolling

I find the cure to this Errk noise is to actually back off the throttle, and pedal more. Get in the lowest gear, pedal hard, and use the motor noise to guide you how much throttle to give. Some noise is acceptable, but to climb the hill more efficiently, and with a cooler motor, use only the power you need, and go slow. Once rolling 5 mph, you can then pedal less, and use more throttle to keep the speed up, so you don't have to pedal hard the entire hill. Of course, pedaling hard will be needed the whole hill if it is over 10% grade.

BTW dirt usually won't stay in a very large pile past about 35 degrees. It's why the pyramids are the slope they are, around 33 degrees. It's pretty hard to even stand on 45. Anthing that steep is usually pretty solid rock.
 
Drunkskunk said:
:twisted: Its growling cause its mad at you. 45 degrees is a 100% grade. most cars struggle on a 10% grade.

BL36 is similar to my Clyte 408, which would trip the overload on the controller with both middle fingers sticking up if I tried a 45 degree hill. My 4012 will do it, but it snarls at me and mutters things about my mother when it thinks I can't hear.

Oh man this was is a classic post it should be posted in the archives. LMAO
 
This is what growling is like. Its about a minute in when I get halfway up the hill. Sounds like a dying dog or cat. This is low speed loading at its best. We should do a thread on compare you whine/growl.

It may seem like it slipping if the controller goes into overload protection as Drunk mention. The Sucteam controllers stop dead in their tracks if they sense a stall for more than 3 seconds and if you were on a steep incline it will seem like its slipping. Re-engage the throttle and it starts back up again.

Also if you find that magical spot on the throttle when stalling the motor it will give the shreik as dog mention. This happens at very low amps. Like 10A or less when stalling. It will also seem like its the PWM is oscillating between forward in reverse like its trying to break itself free from the stall.

More amps can get you out of some situations where you need the extra power like in acceleration or hill climbing. Helps out in tops speed because of the additional torque that helps compensate for wind drag at higher speed. You can push the WE motors pretty hard 48v @ 50A should be nice setup that could tackle anything. Or you can get get you a KITT computer and install the turbo boost button. (Imitates the Knight Rider Laser Sound)
[youtube]9-QUaX-jbq0[/youtube]
 
Back
Top