My first build

You should seriously consider a bearing support on the outside of the motor pulley together with a bearing in the motor mounting plate, to take the "cantilever" loading off the shaft and the drive load off the internal motor bearings.

Like this
file.php
 
Have you made a definite decision on a specific motor and a specific model of ESC?

Some of the higher end ESCs have an interface that allows you to use a laptop computer for programming different parameters (than the factory-stock default numbers). Some require that you buy a programming card, which is usually less than $10 for the Turnigy motors. There are many choices, and here is one example:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2169

TR_PC.jpg
 
I know all about Rc speed controller programming, I have an rc racing background lol.
Between my Tekin Hotwire for my rx8 esc, Castle link for my castle units... I wish it were that easy, But Im using a 48v 600watt Speed controller

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220665822955&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT


Does anyone have a link to Speed controller mods? Im trying to get Ideas for beefing up the traces, shunts etc..
 
I have used McMaster-Carr for 1/2" case-hardenend shafts, and I am happy with them. They came in an envelope to my mailbox in 4 days. The resources stickie has links for plastic Shaft-loc 5mm-HTD pulleys, I believe there is a 20-Tooth (also 22T, 24T, etc) from SDP-SI, with sleeves to fit them onto 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm shafts...

Shaft ordering catalogue
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/1058/=9fp6nx

Metal HTD pulleys with a 17T diameter.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7192&start=30#p281201

Shaft-Loc HTD pulleys
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8491&start=15#p301680
 
Alright, Finally some of my parts!

My controller came in, it was a $25 chinese special, rated for 600 watts and 48v.. Turns out to be a 12 FET board with 63v input caps, 12 t430 bv951k MOSFETS. Seems like the board has potential :)

The model number of the board is Refly RFW4850-v09 230911

This board has the option of being configured to run 60v but what is the difference between the 48v and 60v models?

Seems like you would need a resistor somewhere to bring down the higher voltage to a usuable level for all the smaller chips.. Is there any tutorial or thread on this - using this board?

Sorry for the spotty pictures, phone got stolen and Im using the webcam on my laptop :oops:
 

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Don't know why none of the EE headies haven't gotten back to you, that controller does have potential for $25, can you point me to the vendor? Although, especially on your first build, I would have gone with Lyen's on the controller for the tech support and wide array of threads modding his controllers etc... My controllers are rated based on the caps inside, since you have 63 volt caps that means 60 volts is the highest at fully charged on the batteries you should ever go. You can run any voltage lower as long as your controller doesn't have a preprogrammed LVC ( low voltage cutoff). Did your controller come in a case? Def need that to protect it from the elements as well as aid in heat dissipation. By the way, your webcam snaps a fine picture. :D
 
It has an alumium extruded case just like every other esc..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220665822955&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Says it has a LVC of 42v

Have to somehow change it.. Not sure how..

Probably gonna do 10-12s
 
WOW! those pictures came out great. they were taken on my Blackberry cell phone.

I pulled apart an old subwoofer amplifier and found these mosfets.

Cant find any info on these larger fets:

IMG00023-20101120-1354.jpg



Then there are these little guys in the standard t0-220 package
P55NE06's
IMG00024-20101120-1355.jpg

60v 55amp.
 
Bueller...


What are the theoretical rpm limit of the 12fet controllers?

Im looking at the turnigy 80-100 130kv on 12s

lets say nominal voltage.

3.7v x 12s= 44.4v

44.4 x 130= 5772rpm

If my math serves me correct I multiply the motor rpm by the number of poles to find the electrical rpm?
 
I don't think anyone has actually discovered the electrical rpm limit for these controllers, yet. We do know that they are OK for around 8000 rpm on a 7 pole pair motor (14 magnets, 12 stator slots), so it looks like the commutation frequency limit is in excess of 933Hz. My guess is that they are OK for up to around 1200Hz.

The Turnigy 80-100 is a 12 slot, 14 magnet, 7 pole pair motor. So, for 44.4V and 5772rpm you're only running at a commutation frequency of 673Hz so should be fine.

The calculation is:

Commutation frequency = (rpm / 60) x number of pole pairs

Jeremy
 
Thank you very much Jeremy. I have been studying(literally) the information on this forum. I think I have figured out what setup im going to run on my e-bike.

80-100 130kv motor
-Yes i know that the 80-85 might be smaller and cheaper. But 10 bucks more for a motor with a much higher potential :)

Im going to modify my controller with IRFB4110 FETS
Adjust the shunt value with solder to allow higher current.
upgrade to a 12 or 10awg wire for phase and power wires

If heat becomes a problem I am thinking about running 1/8in ID copper tubing for beefing up the solder traces, but also use them for liquid cooling.. in addition to a liquid cooling plate between the Isolating film behind the FETS and the Heat spreader bar.. Would be a very good way in increasing the cooling of the esc- especially having the coolant essentially right on the FET legs. I Plan to use PC cooling fluid as it does not conduct electricity or Distilled water.

IMG00027-20101120-1912-1.jpg


The long traces are the easiest the traces going to the phase wires will be the toughest because of proximity to other components and paths that need to be isolated.

I still have yet to discover how to change the low voltage cutoff on the esc to work with my 12s lipo configuration (36v) from the stock 42v.

I also Need to find the resistor that steps the voltage down to run the processor and other voltage sensitive components.

Does anyone know anything about programming these refly boards, or is it a lost cause?
here is a picture of what may be the programming port?
IMG00037-20101120-1918-1.jpg




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

As for the Drive system-

Im going to turn my motor shaft down to either 10mm or 3/8in
then bore out an 18t GT2 pulley to an equal diameter
that will be belted to a 72t gt2 pulley mounted on a 5/8in jackshaft.
on the other side of that jackshaft will be a SBP 9t sprocket to the SPB freewheel crank then back to the stock rear derailuer.

It is geared to do 23mph in the lowest gear, and a hair over 40mph in the highest gear...



Also got a nice big 2ft peice of 1/4in 6061 aluminum :)
 
I am Also am trying to decipher all of the markings and wire colors

So far I have

Yellow, green, blue are phase wires
Large red and black wires are main power wires
Small red,yellow, green,blue and black are hall effect sensors

Along the right side of the controller.
Green w/Yellow stripe marked "SP"= Unknown

2 Blue wires with an external connection marked "YK 12/6"= Hall Sensor spacing(120* or 60*)

White w/ green stripe marked "HH"= Unknown

Orange w/green striped marked "HL"= Unknown

Red marked with "HBD"=Unknown

Blue marked with "LBD"=Unknown

Brown marked "ABS"= Antilock Brakes

2 Orange wires marked with "L"= Unknown


at the front of the controller (away from power capacitors)-

2 purple wires on the same pad marked "US"=Unknown

There are many more unmarked wires going to various connectors.



*edit* Found out this esc is the same as the BMSBattery 500w 12fet controller :) Lots of info to read up on now
 
Even better news fellas!


Been chatting with my rc sponsor. Hes working on building an electric dirtbike, and I had a blown up yamaha yz85 dirtbike that Im going to trade him for a Castle creations HV 180 esc!

400 dollar controller for a dirtbike that didnt have a future!

Seems very easy to bump up current capacity with another mosfet board like the Aircraft HV units.



Item number:

HHV180
Retail price:

$450.00
Length:
Width:
Height:

3.3" (83mm)
1.6" (41mm)
1.3" (33mm)
Weight with
4.75" wires:

6.8 oz (193g)
Throttle Connection:

Opto Isolated
Castle Link Compatible:

Yes

9000watts!
 
Hello Brushlessboy

i've a similar controller tehn your, can you give me a info?
What are a HBD and LBD cable? (LBD is Blu and Hbd is reo or pink/red, they go out ....what function they do?
You know how high voltage brake be used?

Sorry for my english
 
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