My first e - creation

Pockets72488

10 mW
Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
31
Location
Portland Or
Ok so this is my electric motorcycle im building from scratch, i have a bad knee (hit by a car when i was a kid) and have trouble peddling more then a couple blocks (Don't feel sorry for me!) so i wanted to build something that was full electric. this is what i got so far. huffy mountain bike frame, currie 350Watt 36Vdc motor 36vdc 25 amp controller, 36vdc 12 Amp Hr battery pack, the headlight i got are ok but suck im building a new arrray from mr16 12 volt bulbs, top speed is 25 MPH and a range of 10 Miles, the seat, seat post, and front fender is off a wrecked HG1000 and the seat still flips up to allow access to the fuse block and charging port. the blinkers are no longer attached as i wiped out at 20 and broke both them off. Any and all questions / comments are welcome

awesome finally figured out how to get the images to appear thanks AussieJester!~
heres some older and newer pictures as well.

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http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...viewPicture&friendID=27127045&albumId=1791555
 
Unless people are a member of myspace they wont be able to see your pictures though.

All you need to do to post a picture is place the following 'tag' before-->
<---this one after your pictures URL. Alternatively, click the 'Img' link above where you type in message and the simply paste the url of your picture it automatically places the image url between the tags for you.

Kim
 
awesome i couldent figure out the url of the pictures at first but i got it figured now thanks for the help!~
 
The bike rocks... to the tune of:

FIVE SWEEEET 40's!!!!!

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So much to LUUUUUVVVVVV... Parts discarded, parts from other bikes, wires flippin' everywhar....
We've seen lotsa black tape before, but not structural. This is also our FIRST exposure of a ratchet-strap in a non-cargo technical function.

Ghetto is not just a place... It's a breath of fresh malt-liquor.

:mrgreen:
 
yeah the ratchet strap was a quick fix as i had no duct tape and did not want to wait till the next morning to go get some,and the black tape was to keep it from swaying from side to side, but you all knew that. i laughed so hard when i read TD's 5 forty review thats awesome, i work for Scoot on this http://www.scootonthis.com/ so all the parts were scavanged from the broken heap pile in the basement work shop execpt for the frame, turn signals, and book racks, the sigals are off my old 1974 yamaha 175 dt enduro, book racks were bought new, and frame was a freebie (found in the street out front of my house) the goal was a sleek street machine but changed into something cheap and functionable
 
Nice looking ride there mate top job ;)

Glad i could be of help with the image posting to. Haven't been here long myself, i see the 'majority' of bikes here have the hub motors good to see another 'non' hub motored ride pop up ;) Not that theres anything wrong with hub motors just an observation :) I do like the light/meter you have, any chance you have a link to the place you purchased it?

pockets said:
awesome i couldent figure out the url of the pictures at first but i got it figured now thanks for the help!~
tip* right click picture click properties then copy the 'location' for the pictures URL :)
 
http://www.scootonthis.com/ i bought it there from my boss there like 30 bucks and only work on 36 volt systems the light sucks but there is a small adj thingy on the bottom i thought it might be for voltage? but havent messed with it the hand grip with switch's was also another thing i changed i went with one in the heap pile that had turn signal switch on it dont have the slightist clue what it was cut off of tho, it also has a horn thats kinda cool but the capasitance meter is really the only reason i bought it and works great!, im currently expermenting with a parallax basic stamp2 and a serial input lcd display to make a custom HUD

Edit: i also wanted to add i have no welding skills nor a welder or anyone who would do welding for me at this time nor the money for a paid person to do the work, i do enuff to pay my bills and play with the rest of my time
 
well for awhile i just had a seat stem held in with electrical tape but i am getting a handel bar stem cut and welded the the bottom frame tube in witch i can place a pair of handle bars and cut them from there to the width i want till then im staying with the seat post and electrical tape, no probbly duct tape. the other way to do it is to use the middle piece of a three piece crank and screw regular stunt pegs onto it
 
you can get the headlight at poweridestore for about 18 bucks, probably cheaper if you search ebay. Yes the potentiometer underneath is for voltage adjustment. I've adjusted it to work with 48v battery pack. Yeah the light suck and the horn sound really annoying. The meter is a good feature but not sure how high you can adjust it. If you can do some hacking to replace the bulb with a luxeon LED you'll have a better light.

http://www.poweridestore.com/Hub-Motor-Acces/Headlight
 
ngocthach1130 said:
you can get the headlight at poweridestore for about 18 bucks, probably cheaper if you search ebay. Yes the potentiometer underneath is for voltage adjustment. I've adjusted it to work with 48v battery pack. Yeah the light suck and the horn sound really annoying. The meter is a good feature but not sure how high you can adjust it. If you can do some hacking to replace the bulb with a luxeon LED you'll have a better light.

http://www.poweridestore.com/Hub-Motor-Acces/Headlight

WOW thats alot cheaper ill buy my second one there for shur, i'm building another bike for my kid brother when this one is finished nothing fancy just something for him to play on but i wanted another meter for his, i was going to replace the bulb with some decent leds i have lying around but decided not to i have 3 Mr16 12vdc 20 watt bulbs i want to run for my head lights might only use two but i have a seccond battery pack (36VDC 10Amp Hr) i was gunna cut it down to 24Vdc and run all my other stuff off it as my charging port has 3 prongs and ill share a ground between my 36Vdc charger and 24Volt charger, yeah the luxeon are nice but id love to have the 3 Million candle power Navigators off my jeep on there, (maybe ill mock it up and do a photo stunt?) runtime like 15 min tops lol
In time i want to build a hud that resembles a gas tank on a motor cycle and mount the Guage in it with some other displays, just an idea
 
TylerDurden said:
The bike rocks... to the tune of:

FIVE SWEEEET 40's!!!!!

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So much to LUUUUUVVVVVV... Parts discarded, parts from other bikes, wires flippin' everywhar....
We've seen lotsa black tape before, but not structural. This is also our FIRST exposure of a ratchet-strap in a non-cargo technical function.

Ghetto is not just a place... It's a breath of fresh malt-liquor.

:mrgreen:

Wow, that's a record. Nice work, Pockets :D.
 
i dont know weather to take it as a compliment or a insult. J/K lol what was the reccord befor me?
 
Can you explain that chainguard, please. Is it a standard Currie part now or did you adapt it? What goes on inside?
 
Pockets72488 said:
what was the reccord befor me?

Several Triple-Forty awards had gone out before. We haven't seen a Quad-Four yet, though. I've won a Double for a battery block, myself. :wink:
 
TylerDurden said:
The bike rocks... to the tune of:

FIVE SWEEEET 40's!!!!!

file.php
file.php
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For any of you "foreigners" who were baffled what this stuff is, see here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olde_English_800
 
Pockets72488 said:
36vdc 25 amp controller, 36vdc 12 Amp Hr battery pack
I feel it's my "obligation" of sorts to remind you and everyone here that SLA does not work particularly well above 1C discharge rates. This setup is:

25 amp / 12 ah = 2C

...so you are going to waste something on the order of 75% percent of your battery due to the Peukert's Effect if you use full throttle. And you might say: "Oh I'll never do that" but trust me... the "EV Grin" develops because the attractiveness of power is hard to resist.

So your design options "might" be to either get a controller with a lower current limit (more like 15 amps or 20 amps) or add more or bigger batteries. The "easy" solution is to trade for a lower current controller. Another possibility would be to buy one more 12 ah battery and go to 48 volts and drop the controller current limit down to 20 amps. That way you get more speed as well as more power and you're still lowering the Peukert's Effect at the same time. (this would improve efficiency across the board)

Also... many rookies make the mistake of using SLA chargers without built in desulfation routines. This is a MUST. Check to make sure your charger does this and if not you need to find another one.

Those two "errors" can mean that your SLA's might only get 100-200 cycles before they go bad when if used correctly they could go to 300 cycles or more.

It's up to you what you need to do...
 
What about high discharge SLA such as B&B and others make:

http://www.bb-battery.com/productshr.asp

can I presume that they do deliver high discharge, but at the expense of even greater Peukert losses?
 
safe said:
I feel it's my "obligation" of sorts to remind you and everyone here that SLA does not work particularly well above 1C discharge rates.
That's why it is used in wheelchairs and golfcarts. :p


@Dirtdad: Peukert and short life are the tradeoffs. A car-battery delivers 3C, but only briefly and the DoD is minimal (if the car starts easily... if not, well, we've all been there).

:D
 
dirtdad said:
...can I presume that they do deliver high discharge, but at the expense of even greater Peukert losses?
Yes. SLA's simply prefer sub 1C discharge rates. To my knowledge there are no exceptions. You can do it, but you just waste all your energy in the process.
 
yeah its a standare currie scooter off a 350 i think not modified in any way, i just unscrewed the freewheel and screwed on a currie scooter gear then bolted the chain guard onto the axel shaft with two nuts to hold it in place the tire does sit to one side and needs dished to cented it, ill post pictures later tonite. also id like to know how his rating system works?
 
Pockets72488 said:
....I'd like to know how his rating system works?
It's not my rating system... all batteries have a greater or lessor ability to deliver current. Voltage and current are two separate things. The voltage is the potential difference of energy from one place to the next, it's the driving force that pulls energy through a wire. The current is the actual flow that you get because of the voltage. All batteries suffer to some degree with something called the "Peukert's Effect" which is that the more current you permit in your system the less actual energy you recover from the battery. With SLA this effect goes almost exponential above a "1C" rate... so that's very bad.

The rating system is based on the "rated capacity" of the battery to deliver it's energy at a (normally) 20 hour time period. Some fiddle with this and use 10 hours, others downright lie to you and falsify their energy levels. (the chinese being very bad about this) But in theory the optimal performance can be achieved if you drain the battery slowly over 20 hours.

In an electric vehicle you tend to use up all the energy in about an hour, so you are pulling much more energy out than it wants to give it.

:arrow: Batteries are rated in terms of "amp hours".

:arrow: Currents are drained based on "amp rates".

It's the ratio of:

"amp rate" divided by "amp hours"

...that determines the "C" rate.
 
It's not my rating system...
i meant TD's rating system with the 40's but thanks for the info! none the less
 
Pockets72488 said:
It's not my rating system...
i meant TD's rating system with the 40's but thanks for the info! none the less

It's a complex rating system, and 40s are awarded based on level of ingenuity, novelty, and/or use of household items as structural support. In other words: The more "ghetto", the more 40s. :wink:
 
LoL @ the '40's' rating :p

I was thinking last night about your insultaion metod of holding in the shaft and thought of another way you could do it (albeit you may lose a '40' rating or two in the process...) There is this product i have used quite often for one thing or another called JB Weld Its fantastic stuff, a two part epoxy that stick like shit to a blanket (excuse the french) I was thinking you could pack the original bearings for the bottom bracket with JB Weld (in place of the grease) when dry this would make them solid and then you could use the original crank shaft, two pieces of pipe that fit over the crank shaft could then be fixed in place again with JB Weld...as i said would lose you '40' points but might be a little more structurally sound and less expensive route to take?

Kim
 
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