zerogee
1 W
Hi Guys!
I’m new to this stuff and this forum. What an excellent resource it is!
I have this Outback Mountainboard (OMB) Triple Trax M1 that I have been using mainly for kiteboarding and some downhill riding. Lately, I have been playing with the idea of converting it to an E-board since I find myself not using it much anymore and this might be an interesting project and a cool no-wind activity.
View attachment 14
View attachment 3View attachment 11
It is a directional and the front is actually the end with the two wheels and I ride it with the straps. It uses tie-rod steering (no trucks) operated by tilting the deck when leaning over your toes or heels. The front wheels have toe-in and cant for better tracking and stability.
View attachment 13
It has a wide track and long wheel base and it is pretty heavy (10.5kg /23lb). The big 12" wheels and lots of ground clearance (4”) go over bumps and gopher holes nicely.

This combination provides a nice ride at speed with no speed wobble and can hold lots of power with minimal side slipping unless you want it to. It is a very sweet board to carve on (very snowboard like).
I have come across other projects online using this platform with chain drives that require more fabrication but they did not have much follow-up. I’m confused and not sure if I should proceed with this project. I hope you can assist me in deciding whether this project is worth pursuing as is. Since this is my first effort, my parts selection was based on more plug-in-play and minimal modification and fabrication. From info I found online, I have estimates from 15kph to 25kph for top speed and 30km to 60km for distance. I don’t think 15kph will make me happy. I might be able to live with 30km. Can anyone here narrow down what this setup will actually give me for top speed and distance?
12 inch Front Smart Pie Conversion Kit Looks like that it will fit inside the frame with the disk brake. Front Smart Pie Drawing
View attachment 1

I’m not sure if I used this data in these properly for some of my estimates…
Smart Pie 48V Curve
Smart Pie 48V Performance Data
48V10Ah LiFePO4 in Alloy CASE I picked this battery for its dimensions. I would like to mount it under the deck to keep the deck clear and the center of gravity of the board low with the weight more even distributed. The pack needs to fit inside the frame so it does not affect the steering or damage the pack. This is my preferred configuration.



Next choice would be to fit a pack between the straps on the deck. It would need to fit inside 10”. I could also move the back strap to get 2” more.

Another choice would be a split pack with one on the deck and one under.
Last choice would be to mount the battery on a rack above the drive (rear) wheel.
I am open to any and all suggestions and change my preference if it will improve the performance of the motor (top speed, or torque, or distance).
USB Programming Cable for Internal Smart Pie Controller for tweaking the motor. Or am I better off using Cycle Analyst to do that?
Cycle Analyst V3 with Shunt V3 I’m not sure I need all the functions of this version or not. I think the software for the motor will let me do the tweaking of the motor.
Cycle Analyst v2.3 with Shunt or, should I just use this version?
140 mm Brake Disk I’m not sure if I need one. Would the regen braking be enough to stop me?
Disk Brake Activator If I need the brake I would need to fab something up to mount this. I am thinking of using a modified BMX stem and either some angle or flat plate material to do it.
I was also thinking that I could use a proximity type switch as a “dead man” switch in case I fall off the board. Positioned in the deck under my foot and connected to the unused e-brake port.
Rear Torque Arm I might fab something up for this too. Is one on each side needed?
Thanks,
Myron
I’m new to this stuff and this forum. What an excellent resource it is!
I have this Outback Mountainboard (OMB) Triple Trax M1 that I have been using mainly for kiteboarding and some downhill riding. Lately, I have been playing with the idea of converting it to an E-board since I find myself not using it much anymore and this might be an interesting project and a cool no-wind activity.
View attachment 14

It is a directional and the front is actually the end with the two wheels and I ride it with the straps. It uses tie-rod steering (no trucks) operated by tilting the deck when leaning over your toes or heels. The front wheels have toe-in and cant for better tracking and stability.


It has a wide track and long wheel base and it is pretty heavy (10.5kg /23lb). The big 12" wheels and lots of ground clearance (4”) go over bumps and gopher holes nicely.

This combination provides a nice ride at speed with no speed wobble and can hold lots of power with minimal side slipping unless you want it to. It is a very sweet board to carve on (very snowboard like).
I have come across other projects online using this platform with chain drives that require more fabrication but they did not have much follow-up. I’m confused and not sure if I should proceed with this project. I hope you can assist me in deciding whether this project is worth pursuing as is. Since this is my first effort, my parts selection was based on more plug-in-play and minimal modification and fabrication. From info I found online, I have estimates from 15kph to 25kph for top speed and 30km to 60km for distance. I don’t think 15kph will make me happy. I might be able to live with 30km. Can anyone here narrow down what this setup will actually give me for top speed and distance?
12 inch Front Smart Pie Conversion Kit Looks like that it will fit inside the frame with the disk brake. Front Smart Pie Drawing
View attachment 1


I’m not sure if I used this data in these properly for some of my estimates…
Smart Pie 48V Curve
Smart Pie 48V Performance Data
48V10Ah LiFePO4 in Alloy CASE I picked this battery for its dimensions. I would like to mount it under the deck to keep the deck clear and the center of gravity of the board low with the weight more even distributed. The pack needs to fit inside the frame so it does not affect the steering or damage the pack. This is my preferred configuration.



Next choice would be to fit a pack between the straps on the deck. It would need to fit inside 10”. I could also move the back strap to get 2” more.

Another choice would be a split pack with one on the deck and one under.
Last choice would be to mount the battery on a rack above the drive (rear) wheel.
I am open to any and all suggestions and change my preference if it will improve the performance of the motor (top speed, or torque, or distance).
USB Programming Cable for Internal Smart Pie Controller for tweaking the motor. Or am I better off using Cycle Analyst to do that?
Cycle Analyst V3 with Shunt V3 I’m not sure I need all the functions of this version or not. I think the software for the motor will let me do the tweaking of the motor.
Cycle Analyst v2.3 with Shunt or, should I just use this version?
140 mm Brake Disk I’m not sure if I need one. Would the regen braking be enough to stop me?
Disk Brake Activator If I need the brake I would need to fab something up to mount this. I am thinking of using a modified BMX stem and either some angle or flat plate material to do it.

I was also thinking that I could use a proximity type switch as a “dead man” switch in case I fall off the board. Positioned in the deck under my foot and connected to the unused e-brake port.
Rear Torque Arm I might fab something up for this too. Is one on each side needed?
Thanks,
Myron