Nano-tech LiPo demonstration :) Engine cranking
- Thread starter liveforphysics
- Start date
vanilla ice
1 MW
I think what they mean is 45c continuous 90c max for short periods of time.
My 20c packs have 12awg wire I think? It works fine for me at 135amps. I tried leaving my 20c 4s starter pack connected to my Sunday car all day but it didn't like the alternator output. I think it was like 13.3 volts.. but my car is old. I think newer cars are closer to 14. I'm going back to disconnecting the pack immediately after starting until I figure out how to bump up my alternator voltage. I've read you can use diodes to trick out the regulator?
My 20c packs have 12awg wire I think? It works fine for me at 135amps. I tried leaving my 20c 4s starter pack connected to my Sunday car all day but it didn't like the alternator output. I think it was like 13.3 volts.. but my car is old. I think newer cars are closer to 14. I'm going back to disconnecting the pack immediately after starting until I figure out how to bump up my alternator voltage. I've read you can use diodes to trick out the regulator?
LI-ghtcycle
10 MW
SCHWEET!!! 
Now all I need is an ESC that can handle 800AMPS!
What's the biggest outrunner that HK sells again?! :wink:
That an a solid rubber rear tire with a few spares to get me home with a Kepler Drive going 40MPH up a 10% grade!
Thanks for making me regret buying the 25-50C Nano LiPo!
You ROCK!!
Now all I need is an ESC that can handle 800AMPS!
What's the biggest outrunner that HK sells again?! :wink:
That an a solid rubber rear tire with a few spares to get me home with a Kepler Drive going 40MPH up a 10% grade!
Thanks for making me regret buying the 25-50C Nano LiPo!
You ROCK!!
67spyder
10 mW
I am realy interested in this idea, a good car battery is $100, and 4 X 4s of these batteries are ~$200 but about 30Kg's lighter. Reduced weight is good for MPG's and performance. If the lifespan (that's why 4 of them in parallel) can match the lead battery, the payoff in MPG (or performance if that's what your into) should be worth it or at least worth discussing.
A simple solution would be to leave the car electronics alone, and just use linear voltage regulators to reduce the maximum voltage going to this 3s battery string, for example:
Linear LT1084CT-12#PBF or Micrel MIC29301-12WU
Search under 'PowerManagementIC - Voltage Regulators - Linear' on Digikey.com or Mouser.com.
The above will only take care of charging. If you want to leave the batteries connected permanently, you'll need some way to connect it for discharging (for example, starting the car), such as multiple diodes in parallel, or some other short term bypass switch (even low-Rds_on FET's that conduct only when cranking, such as STV300NH02L).
liveforphysics
100 TW
Arlo1 said:
I would definitely use the 45-90c cells, and definitely arrange them at least 2p, maybe 4Ah cells and 3p. This is just to be prepared for the worst possible scenario where it's like -10deg out, and the battery is frosty cold and the oil is jelly, and the fuel just dribbles in rather than atomizes, so it has to crank for a while to get poppin.
Bazaki
10 kW
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2009
- Messages
- 639
I really would like to use my 3s 5ah nano-tech lipo to start my old '54 Chevy pickup truck.
I have 2 of them so I can make a 10ah 3s.
To mount it permanently is difficult I think since I don't how I should build something that could adjust the alternator voltage to 12,5 v
So I was thinking, I permanently connect my ignition and remove my ignition lock, I make a spare hole in the dashboard with the + and - of the original battery wires of the car.
And as soon as I plug in my nano-lipo the car starts, I remove it as soon as the car starts.
Maybe some adjustments with the ignition wires or even let the iginition for what it is.
I hide the Lipo somewhere in the interior and nobody knows how to start the old beauty.......oldskool truck meets newstyle battery
I have 2 of them so I can make a 10ah 3s.
To mount it permanently is difficult I think since I don't how I should build something that could adjust the alternator voltage to 12,5 v
So I was thinking, I permanently connect my ignition and remove my ignition lock, I make a spare hole in the dashboard with the + and - of the original battery wires of the car.
And as soon as I plug in my nano-lipo the car starts, I remove it as soon as the car starts.
Maybe some adjustments with the ignition wires or even let the iginition for what it is.
I hide the Lipo somewhere in the interior and nobody knows how to start the old beauty.......oldskool truck meets newstyle battery
vanilla ice
1 MW
I think leave the ignition in, and add a flip switch. Just in case you stall out in traffic or something like that..
liveforphysics
100 TW
Bazaki said:I really would like to use my 3s 5ah nano-tech lipo to start my old '54 Chevy pickup truck.
I have 2 of them so I can make a 10ah 3s.
To mount it permanently is difficult I think since I don't how I should build something that could adjust the alternator voltage to 12,5 v
So I was thinking, I permanently connect my ignition and remove my ignition lock, I make a spare hole in the dashboard with the + and - of the original battery wires of the car.
And as soon as I plug in my nano-lipo the car starts, I remove it as soon as the car starts.
Maybe some adjustments with the ignition wires or even let the iginition for what it is.
I hide the Lipo somewhere in the interior and nobody knows how to start the old beauty.......oldskool truck meets newstyle battery
You could simply not have your starting battery charged. Your starter has a solenoid (a big relay-like switch) that connects the battery to the motor all ready designed into it. You could just use the 10Ah nano-tech pack as your starting battery, connected to nothing else in the vehicles system, and hook up something super simple like a 100ohm resistor and a 12.5v zener diode across the nano-tech pack to keep it topped off by the normal cars charging system. Or, just charge it at home or something, I'm sure you could run that 10Ah pack for months of normal starting use before needing to charge it.
Im going to get a bunch of 4.3 v zener diodes and have them on a relay so when the car is running it will cut them off at the cell level.liveforphysics said:Bazaki said:I really would like to use my 3s 5ah nano-tech lipo to start my old '54 Chevy pickup truck.
I have 2 of them so I can make a 10ah 3s.
To mount it permanently is difficult I think since I don't how I should build something that could adjust the alternator voltage to 12,5 v
So I was thinking, I permanently connect my ignition and remove my ignition lock, I make a spare hole in the dashboard with the + and - of the original battery wires of the car.
And as soon as I plug in my nano-lipo the car starts, I remove it as soon as the car starts.
Maybe some adjustments with the ignition wires or even let the iginition for what it is.
I hide the Lipo somewhere in the interior and nobody knows how to start the old beauty.......oldskool truck meets newstyle battery
You could simply not have your starting battery charged. Your starter has a solenoid (a big relay-like switch) that connects the battery to the motor all ready designed into it. You could just use the 10Ah nano-tech pack as your starting battery, connected to nothing else in the vehicles system, and hook up something super simple like a 100ohm resistor and a 12.5v zener diode across the nano-tech pack to keep it topped off by the normal cars charging system. Or, just charge it at home or something, I'm sure you could run that 10Ah pack for months of normal starting use before needing to charge it.
Kurt
10 kW
I posted this on another jump-starting thread
I didn't have Anything on hand to measure how many amps it takes to start but I did have a go at starting my 3lt diesel pick up truck.The engine is very very tight as it only had 600km on the clock when I took this video.I used a wimpy 1/2 flat 3 year old 10ah SLA. Started fine on that tiny thing.
Sorry about the camera being mounted to the hood support pole and shaking and my 3yo daughter yelling out in the back ground .
[youtube]rnk_BU3fic0[/youtube]
So if a crappy little 10ah sla can start it i think we need a more impressive test for this nano lipo than starting a diesel engine.
Not that I can think of anything perhaps powering a aluminium foundry for a fraction of a second.
I didn't have Anything on hand to measure how many amps it takes to start but I did have a go at starting my 3lt diesel pick up truck.The engine is very very tight as it only had 600km on the clock when I took this video.I used a wimpy 1/2 flat 3 year old 10ah SLA. Started fine on that tiny thing.
Sorry about the camera being mounted to the hood support pole and shaking and my 3yo daughter yelling out in the back ground .
[youtube]rnk_BU3fic0[/youtube]
So if a crappy little 10ah sla can start it i think we need a more impressive test for this nano lipo than starting a diesel engine.
Not that I can think of anything perhaps powering a aluminium foundry for a fraction of a second.
TylerDurden
100 GW
PbA can pump the amps... but not for long.Kurt said:
Sustained cranking - with the fuel cut off - would be revealing.
Green Machine
100 kW
I was thinking this question before i ever saw this thread and now im really wondering: So why hasnt anyone built and offered a small lipo pack for a portable "jump pack" yet. Just keep in your glovebox in case of emergency...charge every once in a while on a rc charger.
Seems like an easy product to make and sale....why hasnt someone done it? I dont get it.
The small lead acid packs that tow trucks use good for like 10 jumps..sale for like $150 at pep boys...
Here is a 24 volt truck jumping pack that sales for $250 on amazon and weighs 40lbs.
http://www.amazon.com/Solar-1500-Peak-Starter-ES8000/dp/B000YGJ99S
Heck make one of those truck jumping lipo packs too.
Seems like an easy product to make and sale....why hasnt someone done it? I dont get it.
The small lead acid packs that tow trucks use good for like 10 jumps..sale for like $150 at pep boys...
Here is a 24 volt truck jumping pack that sales for $250 on amazon and weighs 40lbs.
http://www.amazon.com/Solar-1500-Peak-Starter-ES8000/dp/B000YGJ99S
Heck make one of those truck jumping lipo packs too.
Bazaki
10 kW
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2009
- Messages
- 639
Ofcourse I had been thinking of this too, but what if one of "your" selfmade products will catch a fire the car can burn down and the garage too, then I think the maker is responsible.
So I see it as a big risk, for hobby people like we it is fun/handy to have but I just don't trust these battery enough
So I see it as a big risk, for hobby people like we it is fun/handy to have but I just don't trust these battery enough
Green Machine
100 kW
How bout if it was double or tripple bagged in a fire safe bag? How dangerous could it be? That battery was the size of a smart phone. We are building batteries the size of childrens lunch boxes over here..and there are ebike people here who swear by their safety.
I would probably use A123 cells instead of NanoTech (cylindrical cells are more rugged than pouch cells, LiFePO is safer than LiPo)
I have built a 5000 (soon to be 15000 lumen) LED flashlight. It is powered by two 4S A123 26650 packs. I can pop it open, connect the two packs in parallel (for a car) and jump start anything... Does your flashlight have jumper cables?
I have built a 5000 (soon to be 15000 lumen) LED flashlight. It is powered by two 4S A123 26650 packs. I can pop it open, connect the two packs in parallel (for a car) and jump start anything... Does your flashlight have jumper cables?
liveforphysics
100 TW
texaspyro said:
I've got a 5,000lumen flashlight I'm building that is smaller than my cell phone.
My 20 pack of premium binned XM-L's just arrived yesterday from cutter.
Is that the same LED you're using? If not, you should be. http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXM-L.pdf