Need help with installing E-Bike equipment

kent1956

10 mW
Joined
Sep 11, 2008
Messages
25
Location
Cape Coral, FL, USA
Warning this is a very NEWBY topic.

I present my problem and questions here to this very knowledgable and wizen forum. Thanks in advance to all who offer their great depth of knowledge and experience.

I purchased some e-bike equipment from eBay and need some help getting it all assembled. The person I bought it from was selling it to settled a debt owed him by his roommate who was no longer using his bike. I know, buyer beware and all that. I should have got fuller details, but it was a REAL DEAL...we all have heard that one before, probably have some of those great deals around gathering dust too.... :lol:

Anyways, I now am the proud owner of two 26" wheels with hub motors, two controllers, two chargers, a handgrip/throttle set, and pedelec sensor.

I found a donation bike in the trash, needed some cleaning up and will need some parts, but otherwise was perfect to start my build with.

Problem is I need better instructions on how to hook all this up and whether it all is compatible to start with.

Materials I have are:

48V 1000W GoldenMotor hub with 26" wheel, tire, tube. The tire on this set looks brand new with no wear. The wires coming out of the hub shaft were broken and I had to repair it, otherwise it appears in unused condition.

Another hub motor and 26" wheel, set. The tire with this set has clear wear on it, so I assume it was the one the roommate had on his bike.

One 48V 500W controler with a diagram on it. No brand name. I would assume this was the one that was being used.

One controller with no English writing on it.

One handgrip/throttle set.

One pedelec sensor. No magnetic, will any magnetic do to give a signal? I do have left over magnets from old cycle computers, would that work?

Two 48V battery chargers. I assume for SLA batteries as I got four of them with everything else. Already tried using them in parralell with my other batteries on my scooter and they bit the dust after about a month of use. Swelled up rather nice. Didn't blow up, oh well, maybe next time.... :roll:
--One major problem I have now with both chargers is that I tried to test them by hooking them up to the batteries I received with the rest of the equipment, and burnt them both up, one at a time that is. I guess I cross connected them and back fed the circuit. Now I can't get full voltage out of them.
What might I have burnt up? Nothing appears burnt.
Any idea where to find a circuit diagram so I can test through the circuit?

I am an electrician by trade. I've been through BE&E classes and have done some electronics work. I have plenty of hobby time, way more time than money. So I would prefer to try to fix all this rather than throw more money at it.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

I have searched the forum, and may have missed answers to these questions, any links to threads or posts I've missed is appreciated.

When I get home I will post pictures of the equipment to give you all a better idea what I have.
 
Too bad about the chargers. Others here may be helpfull but the only way I fix a charger is with ebay. lurk long enough you can get a new one shockingly cheap. Even the usual prices are not too bad. But you do need batteries, so nows the time to think about investing in lithium. Depends on how far you need to go, but 48v of 12 ah sla's gets really heavy for most bike frames.
 
In the past GM had some problems with the chargers they sell having the battery leads wired backwards from the factory. You hook them up to batteries they burned up. They also had some problems with no kind of protection circuit on the chargers and if you hooked them up without a load to test the polarity, they burned up. Can't win for loosing on that one. They wired some of their motor leads red negative and black positive but put a note in the package stating the correct hook up procedure. Some did not believe the instructions and hooked them up red positive and black negative and toasted stuff. Pretty sweet what China does to us is it not? Bummer about the chargers. GM forum has a couple of their higher up employees monitoring things. If you post there, you may have some luck getting replacements. I have seen some good customer service there. Other times they is a bit slow. I wish you the best and expect they will straighten things out for you if you are patient. If you bought it from GM that is.
 
Thanks guys, Yea I kind of figured that I just plain toasted my chargers and that I could write them off. Oh well....still it would be nice to try to figure out how to repair them. I notice that Fletcher has alot of electronics info on controllers but I didn't find anything on chargers, and most are going with LiPo now anyways, so maybe not so much interst in SLA chargers....except for those of us on an extremely low budget, like none.... :shock: Well not quite that bad, but I should be saving to buy a house rather than my hobby of E-biking.... :roll:

No I didn't buy this from GM on EBay. I bought from a guy looking to make some money. I think he spent most of what I bid for shipping. He didn't figure things would cost so much to ship and only chaged my like $45 shipping on a bid of $350...and it cost him more like $300 to ship it all....live and learn, the school of hard knocks...buyer be ware and seller be informed....

Just trying to make my investment work here...thanks again for the advice guys..
 
ebikeequiment017.jpg

Donor trash 26" bike with 1000W 48V Golden Motor hub installed.


ebikeequiment018.jpg


Closeup of Golden Motor 1000W 48V hub.


ebikeequiment015.jpg


Unnamed hub motor.

ebikeequiment016.jpg


Closeup of rim, Samson High Power double alloy rim.

ebikeequiment019.jpg


Burnt contoller, Power Charger, CJS, Changzhou Jiashan Electric Factory, 110V 195W input, 59V 2.5A output
 
Correct me if I'm wrong guys but aren't those both GM? Do you have pics of the wires/connectors coming off the motors and controllers? Do any of the connectors match? You can charge the batteries separatly with 12 v chargers to do some testing. Show us pics of the controllers/ connectors.
 
I expect as often as it has happened that the information you seek on the repair of the chargers is on the Golden Motors forum and maybe even here too. Just takes some time with the search funtion and reading the posts to find it.
 
that looks like one of the ray-ben hub motors like jim had so much trouble with. the unnamed one.

what is wrong with the charger? they are easy to fix. do you have voltmeter and know how to use it?
 
The radial spokes on one made me think rayben too. But that's only a guess. The funny washer on the pic of the 1000 watt silver motor is a tourqe arm, but maybe it won't fit if you turn it 180 degrees. It's supposed to help the axle not rotate in the dropouts. Most north american ebike vedors sell very good torque arms nowdays. Get the nuts tight though, and you will be ok. Not too long a wrench though, since you can strip an axle. I put lots of force, but use a short wrench myself.
 
got my camera to work briefly, here are the pictures of the controllers I have.

ebikeequiment022.jpg

Unnamed controller. No idea what it is or the size. Motor lead wires look to be about 12AWG.


ebikeequiment023.jpg


500W 48V controller. No brand name on it. Motor leads look like 10AWG, and have been overheated.

ebikeequiment024.jpg


Back of 500W controller with a diagram. I'm sure how to hook this one up. Will it work for the 1000W motor, or will that motor overload this controller? Or will the low output of this controller ruin the 1000w motor?

I would hate to ruin my investment in experimenting.
 
Both motors are suitable for use with 500 watt controllers. In a way, most ebike motors are 300-1000 watt motors. What wattage they run at depends only on the controller. They should last longest with 500 watt or less controllers though. The more power, the hotter things get like the wiring or the motor iteslf.

Replacement controllers are fairly cheap on E-bay. Previous owners experiments may have ruined both of em anyway. So hook em up and see if anything turns. Generally you only need throttle, three power wires, 5 hall sensor wires, and two wires from the battery to the controller. The remaining wires can be left dangling usually, unless two of em go to a on off switch. Good luck.
 
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