nice frame design posted in this thread. I like to see this grow.
bzhwindtalker said:
... I can regulary pull 1/2 of it (40m long backyard...
) Some more training will do the job! Left hand rear brake is absolutely perfect, I think this should be standard on all powerful bikes.
with my 190W tongxin I once did a wheely the whole street down (about 50m) it's all about skill
What suchs with brushless setups IMO is the delayed throttle response, only 0.2s delay but that really makes it less fun than a bushed motor or gas engine and clutch, which are just perfectly free of delay.
Putting the rear brake on the on the left is the only way to go IMO, since all motorcycles have their front brake on the right. I once drove a 1000W e-bike of a friend and simply flew over the front wheel when i wanted to stop, mixing up front and rear brake, he had it's front brake on the left
this can be really dangerous! Can't tell why most bike manufacturers mix up the sides :?
mdd0127 said:
The only time 2wd would come in handy is in sand, snow, or mud because it keeps the crap you're riding on from building up in front of your front wheel. The only real way to gain traction going uphill would be to drive the rear and be able to adjust the frame geometry so your weight is more forward, which I have an idea for that you all will see soon.
the wheel base of most MTBs is just too short for an e-bkie conversion. using an 26" MTB frame with a longer fork is a deadly combination (yes I have my experience with it
). Better take a 28" frame and use a 80mm travel fork instead of a 120 or 140mm one. Gives better handling.
That's why some people made their own swing arms for their builds: Make room for the motor and make the bike handle loose ground better.
Using a front hub motor, heavier than a kilogram or so would not be my choice since the bike looses agility with any gram on the front wheel. The keyde nano motor is the only option IMO.
bzhwindtalker said:
I ordered the fastest BPM 500W motor from BMS battery, a spare KU123 12fet controller (23$... such a freaking good deal!) a 120w charger and some li-mn cells for testing. I'll report as soon as I can test the motor on the new frame!
I can highly recommend beefing up the traces of this controller. Otherwise yo wont have much fun with it. Blew mine on the first ride. With beefed up traces it works just fine. Also keep the phase cables short. Shortening them from about 2m to 20cm made a sensible difference.
bzhwindtalker said:
... A MAC with removed flanges could be GREAT! The question is, do they handle 2000-2500w cont/3500 peak over 550wh?
The problem of these motors is cooling. Solution: If you remove the hub (a heat barrier) and cool the stator directly with ambient air you can sqeeze out about the double of the rated continuous power. I rode my 190W converted tongxin with 500W over 30km uphill. It had about 50°C case temp and the motor is still fine. It has a fixed-on-the-frame heatsink housing instead of the stock "heat barrier" hub housing. Sealing and mounting are both issues with this config. I use a felt seal on the freewheel plate to keep dust out of the planetary reduction. I also learned the hard way here, my tongxin rotor shaft got impacts from grains of sand because it wasn't sealed good. Fortunately it can be reused once by just turning it around.
This ambient cooling works great with inrunners, their planetary drives con be sealed relatively easy. But 1000W MAC and BMC hubs are outrunners, I can't offer a solution for them. There maybe one for the direct drive hubs: I heard that there are people out there who cool theirs with oil through the shaft.
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