New build by a newbie!

We'll using 6S, you only provide the single motor with so much power. If you have the wheels spinning prior to climbing up the hill it should ease the stress on that motor.

I've tested a 10S 50mm single motor setup and it can climb 10-15% inclines. However, if you stop in the middle of the hill for some reason and kick push to accelerate. You can easily burn out the motor with the added load (load being pulling myself 180lbs up a 15% incline with no momentum). Doing this too much will easily smoke the motor because your forcing the setup to undergo X load without the capability to do it. You could possibly overcome the issue by kicking twice or three times but you might as well overspec your setup. This is with a 170KV 50mm motor however, I think a motor with a bit more KV would do a bit better.

I find if you want to climb 15% inclines and higher. Either use a 63mm on 10S and/or Dual 50mm on 6S and/or Dual 50mm/63mm on 10S/12S.

So for anyone trying to climb 15% inclines or higher. I always recommend two motors. It's double the power and/or double the torque. Well worth it than burning motors every now and then.

Typically, you can also feel or notice when the motor will go out. It's when you aren't paying attention and push the motor harder than it should and it completely smokes.

With a Dual 50/63mm setup on 10S/12S, it's not likely you would ever burn out any motors or escs. I've tried close to 25-30% inclines. Anything over 30% incline, I think is almost impossible and you would need a 4WD setup but even riding up the hill you'll basically be falling off the board.

I've also noticed lower KV does not help at all to a certain extent. I probably wouldn't go less than 170KV. I even think my 170KV is a bit lean and 200 to 230KV is best for belt driven setups.

Lower KV (170kv and less) doesn't help going up a hill because it doesn't turn the wheels fast enough to gain momentum to climb a hill faster. A lower KV motor under 170KV also provides more drag because of the added torque the motors spin slower and has more resistance to it. I prefer to use 200-230KV and gear it down if you want more torque but the added spinning of a higher KV setup is ideal.

The best choice is to use a second motor to provide additional torque with the higher KV rates. This is what I've noticed...As for as EE verified.. I'm no EE. Would be nice to hear what others have to say..
 
I requested a warranty claim through HK. Figured that it couldn't hurt. I literally had about 45 minutes of run time on the motor before it blew. Now it's time to cross my fingers :)
 
Haven't heard back from HK yet, but I was thinking about the board and realized that I have no clue about electricity, I'm not sure if I overloaded the motor or the opposite, I don't know about watts/volts/ohms. I pretty much did this build from the instructionals on here. I just want to check with the community and make sure I wasn't stressing the motor on the electrical side, or what not.

Heres a link to the motor I bought
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...SK3_6364_213kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

And a link to the ESC (FVT 120a)
http://www.rcjuice.com/fvt-120a-brushless-sensored-sensorless-car-esc-2-6s/

I am using a single 6s Turnigy lipo

Basically, I may end up buying another motor, and before I spend another $90, I'd like to ensure I'm not missing something simple and blow another motor.
 
torqueboards said:
That should be fine. It's definitely better to add in a second motor.


With time! I'd like to enjoy this board for a while before sinking anymore money into it. Where I live there aren't many large hills, I just made a mistake when I was out of town trying to go up a mountain. I have a whopping 2 miles under my belt :( I just wanna ensure I am starting off with a decent base before moving up.

I can already see the future modifications i'd like to do eventually, Hub motors, VESC, Slim profile battery (like S.P.A.C.E.).
 
So I finally got my new motor in from Hobbyking.. I'm still waiting on word for the warranty return so I just paid for this one out of pocket. But now I'm not getting a reaction from the ESC is it possible to blow both the ESC and the motor at the same time?
 
Gatwod said:
So I finally got my new motor in from Hobbyking.. I'm still waiting on word for the warranty return so I just paid for this one out of pocket. But now I'm not getting a reaction from the ESC is it possible to blow both the ESC and the motor at the same time?

Possible - definitely. Do you have any other motors to test - even a small copter motor might verify it's dead or not. You might have received a DOA motor so i'd test to verify. Known good motor and known good esc if you can locate some.

Where are you located? Perhaps someone in the area on ES can meetup and lend a hand? If you are up in Seattle i'd be happy to help!
 
sl33py said:
Gatwod said:
So I finally got my new motor in from Hobbyking.. I'm still waiting on word for the warranty return so I just paid for this one out of pocket. But now I'm not getting a reaction from the ESC is it possible to blow both the ESC and the motor at the same time?

Possible - definitely. Do you have any other motors to test - even a small copter motor might verify it's dead or not. You might have received a DOA motor so i'd test to verify. Known good motor and known good esc if you can locate some.

Where are you located? Perhaps someone in the area on ES can meetup and lend a hand? If you are up in Seattle i'd be happy to help!



Appreciate the assistance but I'm opposite of you in South Caroloina. Can I crack open my ESC and see if it's blown? would it be apparent?
 
I don't know if I'd crack open the esc right away... wait until you hear from HK (they can be extremely slow, and not very helpful at times) about the motor, and then go from there. Ask them if the ESC could be replaced if it is burned out form the motor- if they say yes, just send it back. if they won't replace it, than crack it open. Just don't crack it open until you know HK won't do anything about it, because there is no sense in voiding whatever warranty you may have had, just to figure out that it is broken.

I wouldn't hook up your new motor to the old esc without testing it first though; it could possibly damage your new motor.

Brurned out motors/esc's are the worst: I destryed an enertion 245 from acceleration tests the first week I built my board. Then my esc just decided to turn off the lipo cutoff for no reason, but I didn't realize it because everything else worked fine... So I got a new motor, tested it, and rode home to find out that it overdischarged my BRAND NEW 6s the day after I got it...

Then, just 2 days ago I blew up my VESC and got some drv error before even riding with it: this was during the programming/setup too... lol, some people are lucky, and some aren't
 
Exactly, I'm one of those unlucky people too!

I figured I'll take my setup to the local hobby shop and get them to help me. I haven't found a local ES skateboarder around here yet. I'll put out some feelers and see if anyone gets back to me

I did email RCJuice.com (Where I bought the FVT 120a ESC and authorized FVT seller) and he was telling me that FVT is coming out with a skateboard specific ESC in the next week or so! So this means that this would be the first ESC (besides Vedders ESC) to be made just for us...am I right? interesting stuff!
 
Soooo.....I took a trip to the local hobby store and they determined that I blew THE ESC! They talked me into getting the mamba max pro to go with the brand new Turnigy SK3 that I bought....again

Everything was working fine until I decided to hook the new ESC to the old motor just to check if it was actually blown. and then POP! ESC blew up. I am on the verge on dropping this project. It's costing soooo much money. I'll try to call Castle and see what they can do for me, but damn.
 
Ya man... Bad I idea on hooking up the esc to a dead motor...

All of castle's ESCs are really solid, and they have good customer service, but I don't think they can help you in this situation- it's worth a shot though. You can simply state that you blew up your first esc, bought the mamba max, plugged it into the motor and then blew that one too. They might take pitty on you and either send a new one, or give you a discount. The other thing I will say though, is the mamba max really isn't the best esc for an eboard... It's 10th scale, not 8th, so it doesn't have as much power, because it was designed for 7 pound trucks. If you have to buy a new esc (which is VERY likely) just get a mamba monster 2. They are about $150 on amazon, and I have used mine for close to 6 months now: hands down the best eboard esc I've tried.

I have recently built a 10s board, and the castle esc has taken the bench(because it is 6s): if you want it, I am more than happy to help out a fellow diy builder making their first board by selling it for cheap. just PM me if that sounds like something you'd like to do if castle doesn't get you worked out.

Hope it all works out man, and I wouldn't drop the project after you've come so far! Just don't mess around with dead hardware: once it's gone, let it go.
 
Caden, Thanks for the offer brotha! I decided to hook up the ESC one last time before calling Castle support and it just happened to turn on. In the future I'll look towards getting the MM2.
I may have overheated my MMP a few days ago. Who knows. But I am now up and running...and happy.





astilwell611 said:
Hey Gatwood what part of SC are you in I attend UNCC in NC so depending on where you are we might be pretty close.

I live in Greenville, SC...shouldn't be too far from ya, maybe we can we up once I get a stronger setup!
 
Great enclosure idea! What is the flange on your motor can for? I've never seen something like that.

astilwell611 said:
I've had my ESC fully enclosed for about a year and not had any problems yet. I left the fan on it.

 
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