methods
1 GW
Arlo1 said:
yes
A wise man you are.
Now who is going to be the first to water cool???
-methods
New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)
- Thread starter vodka
- Start date
yes
A wise man you are.
Now who is going to be the first to water cool???
-methods
rui_fujino
1 kW
If any of you are going to watercool the motor I think you should think about using peltier to cool down the motor.
you could easily attach the patch on the motor surface and release the heat to outer motor...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_effect
also i think this method is so much cheaper then water cooling...(also less maintenance) :wink:
you could easily attach the patch on the motor surface and release the heat to outer motor...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_effect
also i think this method is so much cheaper then water cooling...(also less maintenance) :wink:
full-throttle
1 MW
Bad idea..rui_fujino said:
I'm not even going to explain myself on this one
wojtek
100 kW
Arlo1 said:
cooling fans installed how? I take some of the members tried this but it was inefficient?
rui_fujino
1 kW
How come peltier is a bad idea? As far as my knowledge goes, peltier can be bought within $25 per one, and they can be fitted to the side of the motor and use coolent aluminium on the outer side of the hum
sn0wchyld
100 kW
rui_fujino said:
I dont know much about em but i assume that they're efficiency is pretty low for what you get out of em, to the point that other options are going to give better results for less power/effort. Im guessing thats why cars pump coolent fluid through a radiator rather than just having a bunch of these glued to the motor and running of the alternator.
lol, I just thought of a briliant idea too! these things generate power when a deltaT is applied to each side right? so! stick em to your stator then just cool the other side with air! hey presto! your waste heat from your motor can now charge up your batteries!
sn0wchyld
100 kW
Arlo1 said:I laced mine with 12 gauge and they are loose but once tight it seems fine!biohazardman said:OK then now that I have read the whole thread through at least twice I still don't see what people are doing about the huge holes they drilled for the spokes in these things like 4.2 mm. My 12ga Sapim spoke has a 2.6mm shaft and is 5mm max at the widest part of the head. So a very sloppy fit and only .4mm overlap on the motor flange. I really wanted to get this thing done like yesterday so I expect with that in mind it will take years? ;^) Spoke washers for a new motor? What have you done or have you had the problem?
I ended up geting mine laced with 14g spokes and using SS washers. the washers ended up flexing a little so they seat in nicely and so far seem to be holding well. I was pretty reluctant to do it this way initially but a 3+ week wait for larger spokes (that still may not have worked) was too much for me to bare given how long it took me to get the bike running.
I just ordered 10. I plan to install one over every window in the staped steal in the center of the stator. I drilled small holes on the very out side of one cover next to the windings and big holes toward the center of the oposite cover with the intention that the fans will pull the air in from the holes close to the center on one side and below it sideways till it goes out the holes right beside the windings on the other side.wojtek said:
Sorry this os thwe only picture of the stator I can find ATM.
Attachments
wojtek
100 kW
Arlo1 said:
thanks a lot!
I am getting mine from Farfle, i guess he has a big different way of making holes. But do you think a fan blowing in direction of those hole will improve cooling?
I have a bit tricky project:
https://picasaweb.google.com/109200118817316198214/GoOneEvo
so fully covered rear wheel. I think i will forget about this black "mudguard". then im left with this white part. The only hole will be what is on the last picture. for the tyre from the bottom.
EDIT: at worst i could just use it with the open wheel but it does not look good and bad for aerodynamics
((If i manage to find a way to do it with the rear white spoiler, then i need to find a way out for hot air from the motor being blown away by PC fans..
methods
1 GW
sn0wchyld said:
Keep us updated on this....
I have tried brass (a bit too soft) and I am eager to hear how your SS hold up.
-methods
hydro-one
10 kW
Well after a few hundred miles on our new (modded of course,after many lessons in motor teardowns!) ht3525 at 80-100v,, i can report methods is right about the rims and spokes being BORDERLINE staying together as a wheel , no matter what you do. Buddy just found a crack in his last night and i broke three spokes yesterday, and already have two flat spots (which i can fix). Im hoping Methods will offer up some spare spokes for us as Maxwell has failed to provide us with any (kenny , forget him), though i did request a handful when i ordered the three motos. I know holmes prob has some, but i just want some more "stock" spokes to hopefully makes these wheels last till middle of winter, because im sure that is the "max" we will get from them. Even though i was assured these were the toughest heavy duty rims, no one ever had any problems with them before.......
How bout it methods, could use a set with nipples!!
mike
edit , mabye ebikes.ca might have these by now?? im sure justin would have ordered some extra spokes
How bout it methods, could use a set with nipples!!
mike
edit , mabye ebikes.ca might have these by now?? im sure justin would have ordered some extra spokes
Ill have another look but I just yanked the seal and ziptied the wires in because the seal 100% CAN NOT SEAL on a surface with a slot in it like that!methods said:Lol, where have you been bro?
We have been talking about this for 5 months
All you have to do is rotate the plastic wire guide and cut a new notch. This holds the wire down below the seal. Go back and look at your plastic wire guide, it was machine incorrectly with a "mouse hole" that allows the wire to come up into the seal.
-methods
sn0wchyld
100 kW
Andje said:
are you talking 120C on the outer cover or internally? and did you have 'holy' covers? warmest ive had mine is a mere 49c.
mind you, its been damn cold here lately.methods said:
will do mate, send me a pm or whatever if I dont get back to you in a reasonable time.
around 120km so far, so good. wheel is ever so slightly out of true (as would be expected), Ill get it fixed up this weekend and report back after some harder riding.
Bazaki
10 kW
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2009
- Messages
- 639
Well, I did measure my 65 degrees on the outside, after hard riding I put the bike in the garage and the temp on the outside keeps rising, so the windings inside are much much hotter. But since the magnets are attached to the outside I think that is important to know.
electricwheels.de
100 W
fractal said:
dia 40 x dia 17 x 12mm = 6203RS (RS for seals both sides)
nicobie
100 MW
I also think it's a good idea to replace the bearings. On my 1st edition HT3225 they went south within 100 miles.
I have had my new HT3525 up to 85C and the windings still look like new.
I have had my new HT3525 up to 85C and the windings still look like new.
Can anyone confirm the speed I should be getting at 2.5KW power input to my HS3548? I tested it yesterday night and I clocked it at 35mph at 2.5KW power input from the Cyrstalyte Sensorless Controller. One more thing I have an oscillating Current limit on my CA. I set the Current limit to 31A and when I pass it, it will slow the current down, but then it would slow it too much and take it to 28A which means I can go up again. Then it would pass 31A again and Oscillate back any forth. Any Ideas how to fix this? I have Justin Large Screen CA. My guess is to mess around with the Feedback/update units to see if that fixes it.
sn0wchyld
100 kW
mvly said:
just jump on ebikes .ca and look up the manual. I cant remember exactly how to do it, but that's where I remember reading about this.
a good mesure for the power at a given speed is to check the ebike simulator on ebikes.ca, its been quite accurate for me so far. my HT pulls about 1.8kw topping out just over 50km'h (about 32mph). different winding and probably a different voltage though so not a great point of comparison.
sn0wchyld
100 kW
nicobie said:
how can you tell if the bearings have carked it?
also, nice work on the holes. do you do any off-roading/ are you worried about those unprotected wires?
Hyena
10 GW
Those are some decent holes nicobe!
Whats with your spokes though ? They look about as loose as Paris Hilton!
Who was asking about doing wheelies with these motors the other day ?
Here's a quick vid I shot this morning of my HT35. It's running a 100 amp controller but only spikes up around 80 with this motor before very rapidly dropping down to only 40-50 A
Clearly it could catch a noob off guard
[youtube]HPhmgljQXZE[/youtube]
Disclaimer: I am loaded with fresh chemo and morphine so I could probably hold it better with a clearer head :lol: )
Whats with your spokes though ? They look about as loose as Paris Hilton!
Who was asking about doing wheelies with these motors the other day ?
Here's a quick vid I shot this morning of my HT35. It's running a 100 amp controller but only spikes up around 80 with this motor before very rapidly dropping down to only 40-50 A
Clearly it could catch a noob off guard
[youtube]HPhmgljQXZE[/youtube]
Disclaimer: I am loaded with fresh chemo and morphine so I could probably hold it better with a clearer head :lol: )
