Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)
- Thread starter madin88
- Start date
lukashanak
1 W
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2019
- Messages
- 59
endrew said:
After autosetup controller switches to combined mode. You need to switch control mode to FOC to work with field weakening. I never change reference speed from default and field weakening works ok for me with Cyclone.
Yes, that was it! changed control mode to FOC, and now field weakening works. However, now the motor stutter a little, dosn't work as smooth as before... I'll upload a video soon.
@lukashanak - did you make any other changes to make the controller work with the Cyclone? how many poles did you set? could you share your config file?
Thanks!
@lukashanak - did you make any other changes to make the controller work with the Cyclone? how many poles did you set? could you share your config file?
Thanks!
That's not a problem of hall sensors. Bad halls sound way different and since motor stars smooth Iam sure it's not hall related.
Try telegram group
I read about other guy is using cyclone motors.
(but) is this a real cyclone kit or just a clone kit?
Try telegram group
I read about other guy is using cyclone motors.
(but) is this a real cyclone kit or just a clone kit?
Peterfr12
10 W
Hi,
I have issues with my 12F Nucular controller. It is connected to a 20S16p battery and a MXUS motor laced to a motorbike wheel. It is a little annoying that there is no manual because there are so many features on this controller.
Firstly I purchased a thumb throttle with power switch in case I need to turn off the power suddenly. This is something very useful for safety purpose. It does not work at all although I activated the switch option in the software. I found the back-panel button and this one work but not so easy to catch while riding! The switch is connected to the remote sensor with ground and K1 button used.
Secondly I tried to do the autosetup manually the first time and It was ok. I did it again and this time the brake and the throttle are found but when I pressed motor, the motor stuttered a lot, even with higher power (20A to 30A). The motor spins very very slowly when I press motor when i did the autosetup. Either the motor is not found or the angle (error).
If I use the thumb throttle, the wheel is spinning. However when I applied a small amount of throttle – low power - the acceleration carried on continuously until I reach the max speed, I saw 77 km/h on the screen ! With my former Chinese controller, I will not see any more acceleration. When I pushed the throttle to full power it is like applying the brake and the wheel stop brutally, i.e. it looks like it is regen. It sounds very efficient to stop the wheel spinning but dangerous as you want more power and you stop your bike!
I have a 3 speed switch, only the speed 1 and 3 are recognized. I cannot find the 2.
please see the different screen shots.
the setup seems much more powerful than my mac motor from em3ev.
Thanks for your help,
Pierre
I have issues with my 12F Nucular controller. It is connected to a 20S16p battery and a MXUS motor laced to a motorbike wheel. It is a little annoying that there is no manual because there are so many features on this controller.
Firstly I purchased a thumb throttle with power switch in case I need to turn off the power suddenly. This is something very useful for safety purpose. It does not work at all although I activated the switch option in the software. I found the back-panel button and this one work but not so easy to catch while riding! The switch is connected to the remote sensor with ground and K1 button used.
Secondly I tried to do the autosetup manually the first time and It was ok. I did it again and this time the brake and the throttle are found but when I pressed motor, the motor stuttered a lot, even with higher power (20A to 30A). The motor spins very very slowly when I press motor when i did the autosetup. Either the motor is not found or the angle (error).
If I use the thumb throttle, the wheel is spinning. However when I applied a small amount of throttle – low power - the acceleration carried on continuously until I reach the max speed, I saw 77 km/h on the screen ! With my former Chinese controller, I will not see any more acceleration. When I pushed the throttle to full power it is like applying the brake and the wheel stop brutally, i.e. it looks like it is regen. It sounds very efficient to stop the wheel spinning but dangerous as you want more power and you stop your bike!
I have a 3 speed switch, only the speed 1 and 3 are recognized. I cannot find the 2.
please see the different screen shots.
the setup seems much more powerful than my mac motor from em3ev.
Thanks for your help,
Pierre
No screenshot of the configuration screen, so cannot help.Peterfr12 said:
Seems like hall sensor issue. Check wiring.
It's torque mode throttle - controller applies torque by given % of throttle until maximum possible speed is achieved. Wind speed, etc will counteract it while riding.
You can configure it to speed mode, so it would behave like any other controller but I would suggest to use torque mode. Once you get to used to it, you'll never want to go back.
Looks like throttle goes over voltage limit. Throttle is powered from 5V? Did you apply 100% throttle during autosetup?
That's because how 3-mode switches work, even on cheap chinese controllers. One wire connected to gnd for speed 1, second wire connected to gnd for speed 3 and when no wires connected - speed 2.
serious_sam
10 kW
Just to clarify, from what I recall, the middle "off" switch position is "S1", which is the default mode. So it's something like:minimum said:
-> S2 = GND to io5 (switch position "left")
-> S1 = No connection (switch position "middle" with a 3 position switch - which is effectively the "off" position)
-> S3 = GND to io6 (switch position "right")
i.e. the 3 switch positions are: S2-S1-S3 (not S1-S2-S3). You can wire in any io# (io1-io6) to your speed switch, but the middle/off switch position will always be "S1" mode regardless.
So when you program the settings for each mode, keep that in mind. You can see what mode is selected on the main screen.
Peterfr12
10 W
Thanks for your replies.
I solved the issue with the ON/OFF switch button of the throttle. It is now working fine. One wire was slightly disconnected. I have to select ‘switch’ in the parameters instead of ‘button’.
I have disconnected the 3-speed switch for now.
There is a temperature sensor with the MXUS and as you can see from the screen shot it shows a 23 C outside so fine but a 104 C for the motor itself! This is rubbish. I have used the motor for 3 minutes maximum and the temperature remains the same and the hub was totally cool! The sensor is not working. The temperature of the FET is 24 C, observed in the extra parameters.
The throttle seems to work as when I activate it, the wheel is spinning and this time the angle motor was found. However for a certain value/threshold of the throttle, the motor stops running and brakes. I have seen a-1300W on the screen corresponding to the regen. The regen seems powerful and I don’t think I will use my brake pads. I can run the motor like that but I must pay attention when I use the throttle to not go too far. it is not really safe.
I checked the throttle with a voltmeter:
When I used full throttle, I get a voltage up to 4.7V between the green and red wire, nothing between the red and black and 0.5V between the green and black. Does it make sense?
Should I change the value of throttle min and throttle max found on the extra the parameters? It tried to change them but the issue remains.
when i use the throttle i did not see any change on the value of the parameter #throttle. I was expecting some voltage rise.
Any ideas?
i dont really want to open the hub motor to check the hall sensors inside.
Yes I found this manual online but there is no chapter on troubleshooting the controller. Thanks Pitmix for your youtube video on cyclurba on how to setup the controller. It was useful.
Cheers,
Peterfr
I solved the issue with the ON/OFF switch button of the throttle. It is now working fine. One wire was slightly disconnected. I have to select ‘switch’ in the parameters instead of ‘button’.
I have disconnected the 3-speed switch for now.
There is a temperature sensor with the MXUS and as you can see from the screen shot it shows a 23 C outside so fine but a 104 C for the motor itself! This is rubbish. I have used the motor for 3 minutes maximum and the temperature remains the same and the hub was totally cool! The sensor is not working. The temperature of the FET is 24 C, observed in the extra parameters.
The throttle seems to work as when I activate it, the wheel is spinning and this time the angle motor was found. However for a certain value/threshold of the throttle, the motor stops running and brakes. I have seen a-1300W on the screen corresponding to the regen. The regen seems powerful and I don’t think I will use my brake pads. I can run the motor like that but I must pay attention when I use the throttle to not go too far. it is not really safe.
I checked the throttle with a voltmeter:
When I used full throttle, I get a voltage up to 4.7V between the green and red wire, nothing between the red and black and 0.5V between the green and black. Does it make sense?
Should I change the value of throttle min and throttle max found on the extra the parameters? It tried to change them but the issue remains.
when i use the throttle i did not see any change on the value of the parameter #throttle. I was expecting some voltage rise.
Any ideas?
i dont really want to open the hub motor to check the hall sensors inside.
Yes I found this manual online but there is no chapter on troubleshooting the controller. Thanks Pitmix for your youtube video on cyclurba on how to setup the controller. It was useful.
Cheers,
Peterfr
j bjork
1 MW
Have you set up the right temp sensor? I think the default is a ntc sensor, and I think the usual in hubs is kty 83
I think the values you are looking at is the controller inputs, you have to look at the display inputs if you have your throttle connected to the display.
It doesn't make sense that you get nothing between red and black, it should be 5-5,5v or something like that.
You should not have to manually change the throttle inputs, if you maneuver the throttle like you should in the auto setup.
But it sounds like you might have switched red and black? Because you get high voltage between green and red with full throttle and low with low throttle. (if black is ground, red positive and green signal)
If everything is wired properly, you set up pole pairs, temp sensor and maybe something more (it is in the manual) and then do the auto setup it should just work. That is how it has been for me every time at least.
Edit, look in "information" in "onboard computer" to see the throttle input.
I think the values you are looking at is the controller inputs, you have to look at the display inputs if you have your throttle connected to the display.
It doesn't make sense that you get nothing between red and black, it should be 5-5,5v or something like that.
You should not have to manually change the throttle inputs, if you maneuver the throttle like you should in the auto setup.
But it sounds like you might have switched red and black? Because you get high voltage between green and red with full throttle and low with low throttle. (if black is ground, red positive and green signal)
If everything is wired properly, you set up pole pairs, temp sensor and maybe something more (it is in the manual) and then do the auto setup it should just work. That is how it has been for me every time at least.
Edit, look in "information" in "onboard computer" to see the throttle input.
Peterfr12
10 W
Thanks for your reply, Bjork
I changed the temperature sensor to kty84 and the temperature looks good. With kty83 it was -35 C, i am not in Antartica or Siberia and it is the summer here with 26 C around ! but with kty84 I have 33 C which looks fine. No need for calibration.
I disconnected the brake wire from the back of the screen and there is no more issue with the throttle. I can apply full power and it works flawlessly. I have seen that the voltage of the throttle on the information screen went up to 4.33V which is the maximum value. But I have no regen now. So this mean the throttle is working fine. I might have not recorded the value for the colour correctly as it is difficult to put the voltmeter inside this tiny JST-PA connector. For sure I am aware red is +5V, black is ground and green is throttle. It is how I did the connection. i hope the chinese did a good work with their throttle. i tried to dismantle it but it is not easy to do it without braking the cheap plastic.
However as soon as I plug the cable for the ebrake, purchased from LMX64 – I might inquire along them -, the hub motor brakes strongly- enters in regen mode- when the value of the throttle reaches 4.2 V! it cannot reach anymore 4.33V. So i guess the problem come from this cable?
i did the autosetup a dozen of time, with or without the brake cable plugged in and issue remains.
Cheers
Peterfr
I changed the temperature sensor to kty84 and the temperature looks good. With kty83 it was -35 C, i am not in Antartica or Siberia and it is the summer here with 26 C around ! but with kty84 I have 33 C which looks fine. No need for calibration.
I disconnected the brake wire from the back of the screen and there is no more issue with the throttle. I can apply full power and it works flawlessly. I have seen that the voltage of the throttle on the information screen went up to 4.33V which is the maximum value. But I have no regen now. So this mean the throttle is working fine. I might have not recorded the value for the colour correctly as it is difficult to put the voltmeter inside this tiny JST-PA connector. For sure I am aware red is +5V, black is ground and green is throttle. It is how I did the connection. i hope the chinese did a good work with their throttle. i tried to dismantle it but it is not easy to do it without braking the cheap plastic.
However as soon as I plug the cable for the ebrake, purchased from LMX64 – I might inquire along them -, the hub motor brakes strongly- enters in regen mode- when the value of the throttle reaches 4.2 V! it cannot reach anymore 4.33V. So i guess the problem come from this cable?
i did the autosetup a dozen of time, with or without the brake cable plugged in and issue remains.
Cheers
Peterfr
