'on board' 1.5kW charger. Which alibaba supplier?

[flippy]

Well, you do have to spec your AC to the system you have. It does not need to be 60f inside.

But EU is always 220/240 and even a basic shukko plug can get you 3.5kW. that is an insane amount to run a AC on. Even a modern split unit for your living room or whatever peaks out at 1kW at full power. Ans that can give you even 4~5kW of heating in winter. You can run that basically indefently if you choose our setup correctly.

 

[DogDipstick]

Well, you do have to spec your AC to the system you have. It does not need to be 60f inside.

Oh yeah we had no idea what we were doing. ONe of those " get it done right before we actually plan anything" friends. Not a thing written down on paper. We went with 16s split into four boxes. I am going to recommend the RST-5000-48 cause he was looking for a big charger and I did not want to recommend anything expensive without knowing all about it, that which I did not. Those get expensive. Big power supplies.

I mean he kinda thought the sun would replace all the energy, every day, without the need for a backup charging system. As we know know this is not the case in our area. He didnt really "size" anything. Yeah its like 60* in there, all day.

 

[flippy]

Well, you do have to spec your AC to the system you have. It does not need to be 60f inside.

Oh yeah we had no idea what we were doing. ONe of those " get it done right before we actually plan anything" friends. Not a thing written down on paper. We went with 16s split into four boxes. I am going to recommend the RST-5000-48 cause he was looking for a big charger and I did not want to recommend anything expensive without knowing all about it, that which I did not. Those get expensive. Big power supplies.

I mean he kinda thought the sun would replace all the energy, every day, without the need for a backup charging system. As we know know this is not the case in our area. He didnt really "size" anything. Yeah its like 60* in there, all day.

dont be an asshole.

this is a EU situation, not american.

if you know setups like this you know that ac's that are put in most RV's in america are way overpowerd and inefficent to say the least.
in europe you would not even be able to sell an RV with a shitty american AC on the roof. they simply dont comply with EU regulations. if you import an american RV (some idiots do that) they have to do a AC refit, do engine swaps or exaust upgrades to even get it past the inspection stage to get plates.
american RV standards do not apply in this case. and its perfectly normal to heat and cool an RV with a simple heat pump unit that runs under 1kW most of the time. and the RST-5000-48 is used in MANY EV retrofits in europe. i know at least 5 municupalities in my country alone that have hunderds of municipal vechicles with this specific model of charger driving around.
i should know, i have done work for 1 of these municipalites myself.

ps: a high quality 3 phase 5kW charger for 1000 bucks is actually pretty cheap.

 

[Aerox]

I had a look at the forum rules and didn't see anything against posting related links so I posted a bit more information about my RV build here (for more context).

Let me know if you guys thinks I should create a own topic for my questions.

I was planning on 400w or more of solar panel on the roof of the RV.
I don't plan on adding an AC.

I have a diesel engine with a 12v alternator. I asked a local FIAT if I could add a second alternator like I've seen on the PROMASTER US version of that car but they didn't know. Didn't find any aftermarket dual mount either.

According to my RV dealer, the installed alternator is a 150AH@12v (no idea if it's a beefy one rated for continuous but I doubt it).
So as of now I was planning on using a DC/DC charger like the Vicron Orion smart 12/12 30A isolated (360W) or the one in 24v.

So with one unit it's up to 360W. There are other amperage version and they can pe put in parallel.

Thanks flippy for your answer.

I mean he kinda thought the sun would replace all the energy, every day, without the need for a backup charging system. As we know know this is not the case in our area. He didnt really "size" anything. Yeah its like 60* in there, all day.

I'm not sure if you're referring to me but I don't think I ever said I wanted to replace all the energy every day.

I'm will have 3 source power.
- Solar
- Alternator
- Shore

 

[flippy]

how much do you actually (plan to) consume on average and peak? i think you might be going in the wrong direction with this battery/inverter setup.

and ducato's generally dont have space to add another alternator. you might be able to fit one if your engine has the option for an AC but does not have one fitted.

 

[Aerox]

Well, you do have to spec your AC to the system you have. It does not need to be 60f inside.

Oh yeah we had no idea what we were doing. ONe of those " get it done right before we actually plan anything" friends. Not a thing written down on paper. We went with 16s split into four boxes. I am going to recommend the RST-5000-48 cause he was looking for a big charger and I did not want to recommend anything expensive without knowing all about it, that which I did not. Those get expensive. Big power supplies.

I mean he kinda thought the sun would replace all the energy, every day, without the need for a backup charging system. As we know know this is not the case in our area. He didnt really "size" anything. Yeah its like 60* in there, all day.

dont be an asshole.

this is a EU situation, not american.

if you know setups like this you know that ac's that are put in most RV's in america are way overpowerd and inefficent to say the least.
in europe you would not even be able to sell an RV with a shitty american AC on the roof. they simply dont comply with EU regulations. if you import an american RV (some idiots do that) they have to do a AC refit, do engine swaps or exaust upgrades to even get it past the inspection stage to get plates.
american RV standards do not apply in this case. and its perfectly normal to heat and cool an RV with a simple heat pump unit that runs under 1kW most of the time. and the RST-5000-48 is used in MANY EV retrofits in europe. i know at least 5 municupalities in my country alone that have hunderds of municipal vechicles with this specific model of charger driving around.
i should know, i have done work for 1 of these municipalites myself.

ps: a high quality 3 phase 5kW charger for 1000 bucks is actually pretty cheap.

I don't know a lot about imports but I indeed read that because of the difference between regulations, some vehicles couldn't easily be imported because they wouldn't comply with EU regulations (sometimes not even after modifications).

So, the base vehicle is a FIAT panel van (FCA group), that was manufactured in europe for the EU market.
It's been converted to an RV by a german brand named Knaus and I bought it already converted.

Now im trying to upgrade it to the best of my knowledge.

According to my simulations based on my current understanding of my needs (energy audit), and my 14kwh of batteries, I can be offgrid (battery wise) without any sun and any movement for around 9 days.

 

[Aerox]

how much do you actually (plan to) consume on average and peak? i think you might be going in the wrong direction with this battery/inverter setup.

and ducato's generally dont have space to add another alternator. you might be able to fit one if your engine has the option for an AC but does not have one fitted.

Based on my current understanding, 1.5kw/day. For winter time, where the heating part is most power hungry

I don't have any big AC load for now but like enjoy the possibility to use one or the system to be easily upgradable if I have one.
That's why for now I was planning for a Victron multiplus II 24/3000va/70
3000VA inverter and 70A@24V AC/DC charger.

I don't need the inverter part for now but haven't found a lot of high A charger with brand I know and easily pluggable into a DIY system for noobs.

 

[flippy]

Based on my current understanding. For winter time, where the heating part is most power hungry

diesel heaters are REALLY expensive to operate. really nice units are also pretty expensive as well.
if you are interested into running this on the "cheap" then i would seriously consider in investing in a heatpump/aircon unit with heating abillity. at full power they produce 5kW of heat (wich is insane for a european RV) but they can dial themselfs back to what you actually need to hold that temperature (wich is generally just around 200~400W or so) and do that without gassing up your surroundings with diesel exausts. it would reduce your stand alone time ofcourse but it would be a LOT cheaper to run.
a webasto heater with current diesel prices costs about 1 euro of diesel per hour to run. a heat pump would consume about 25~30 cents of electricity if you used a fast charger to top up the battery. so running costs are quite a factor if you plan to spend a lot of time in the RV. standing somewere and have 9 days of running heater will also mean you cant start the engine because the heater used it all. diesel is expensive yo. not to mention that you light the grass on fire with its exaust...

 

[Aerox]

For this RV, changing the heater primary energy source is not an option. It's my first RV and it's not a self made conversion.
I want to these element as less as possible for an easy resale.

It's still an interesting topic for my next RV

The diesel heater I have is a Truma combi d6. (6kw model with water heater integrated)
https://www.truma.com/int/en/products/truma-heater/combi-d6

Fuel consumption
220 – 630 ml/h (110 ml/h with average heat output of 1000 W)

The l/kwh of heat output seems around the same as other brands discussed here
https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/6381-diesel-heater-running-cost/

but they can dial themselfs back to what you actually need to hold that temperature (wich is generally just around 200~400W or so)

200-400W of heat output or DC power input? I guess power input with a COP of around more than 3?

When I look at this kind of model (the one with the heat pump), the COP looks < 2 (3.7A@230V, 1700W heating output)
https://www.truma.com/int/en/products/truma-air-conditioning/truma-aventa-comfort

This one isn't better (altough has the pro of not using roof space)
https://www.truma.com/int/en/products/truma-air-conditioning/truma-saphir-compact

Also, the
Deployment range
+4 °C to +40 °C

What am I supposed to do when it's freezing :lol:. I mean even if not a harsh climate. 0° and less are frequent in europe.

standing somewere and have 9 days of running heater will also mean you cant start the engine because the heater used it all.

I don't want to use my engine battery to power loads of the RV. So that shouln't happen.
When I stated 9 days, it was for fridge, heater, laptops and living. Not just the heater dc power used.

 

[Aerox]

Also, my fast charge idea was not related to heating or cooling. It was so I didn't have to stay at campgrounds overnight if I didn't want to.

It was rather: let's empty black/gray water, fill up clean water, plug the RV to a AC plug and get maybe a few kw (2-5) of battery recharge from the same stop. The faster the better without breaking the bank and killing my lifepo4 cells.

As flippy said, the most common plugs in RV campground or service stations I've seen so far are the 16 A 230 V P+N+E 6h socket
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60309

 

[flippy]

I don't want to use my engine battery to power loads of the RV. So that shouln't happen.

i was talking about the diesel consumption. that is the expensive bit.

first you need to get some effciency down. 48V battery is the way to go for that. lots of crap is for 24V i know unless you can actually mount a 24V alternator on your engine it does not matter and you should not even bother. that is just my expeirence of dozens of installs.

stay away from those victron inverters. they are stupidly expensive. you can litteraly buy half a dozen aliexpress inverters and still have money left to buy some booze and have a good night out.

focus on getting as much 12V stuff. you dont need 220v to charge your laptop or phone. just install usb outlets that run off 12~24v. you can buy them for like 5 euro on aliexpress or even buy them at a local marine shop at 10 times the price. just cover the walls in these things. at least 2 double plugs near each side of the bed, like 6 normal A plugs at the table and dont forget usb-C plugs to charge modern laptops and other toys! also a couple 12V outlets and get a 12V charger for your laptop. the inverter takes more power from just being "on" then what the laptop consumes.

if you want to charge fast at a fast charging point it will cost you. you need to limit yourself to the type 2 charge points and net yourself 5kW of charging with the unit i mentioned. but with everything added that baby will cost you 1500 euro at least to get decent type 2 charging working due to getting the added electronics (a simple arduino) you need to install to negotiate to the charge point.
but if you are going that route with this size battery i would go for broke and double up. so 10kW of charging.

ps: you can install a simple small 2kW split air on your RV. the ouside unit gets mounted on the rear (must be coverd before driving) and then you just install the inside unit to the wall. no roof mount needed and they cost less then half what a "real" rood AC costs and these things are powerful enough to heat up an entire living room on their own. even at -15 outside. :wink:
it just might look a tad "off" by having a unit on the back of your RV, but i would not care in the slightest.

but if you run on the regular blue plug i would just run a 220v electric heater, not the diesel.

ps: i generally install inverters with a UPS feature. so you put them in line with the 16A plug. so if you have wall power it swiches over from battery to outside and when you disconnect or some moron pops the fuse you are also on you keep power as it instantly swiches over to battery power.

 

[Aerox]

i was talking about the diesel consumption. that is the expensive bit.

Understood. I can't do anything regarding that issue on this build though. In the next one

focus on getting as much 12V stuff. you dont need 220v to charge your laptop or phone.

I don't want to risk to harm a 3KUSD+ laptop so I don't want to rely on cheap parts for that so that would need further research.
I don't know how the power negociation is done. The charger is a 5v@1A or 20v@6.5A USB-C (dell charger)
But thanks for reminding me of the idea of reducing the inefficiency due to DC->AC->DC conversion and energy saved by not running the inverter.
Can't the inverter be switched off remotely btw?

if you want to charge fast at a fast charging point it will cost you. you need to limit yourself to the type 2 charge points and net yourself 5kW of charging with the unit i mentioned. but with everything added that baby will cost you 1500 euro at least to get decent type 2 charging working due to getting the added electronics (a simple arduino) you need to install to negotiate to the charge point.
but if you are going that route with this size battery i would go for broke and double up. so 10kW of charging.

An RST-5000-48 from mouser or digikey locally is around 1200USD.
And I would need another system as you said earlier for "slower" charging.
Interesting. Considering the cost, I'll probably start with 2 HRP600-36. I'll need to re-read the topic to understand what I'll have to do regarding the proper setup regarding "charge profiles" :lol:

Are these units noisy btw?
I would sleep on top or very close to the battery box

ps: you can install a simple small 2kW split air on your RV. the ouside unit gets mounted on the rear (must be coverd before driving) and then you just install the inside unit to the wall. no roof mount needed and they cost less then half what a "real" rood AC costs and these things are powerful enough to heat up an entire living room on their own. even at -15 outside. :wink:
it just might look a tad "off" by having a unit on the back of your RV, but i would not care in the slightest.

So basically like this kind of unit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woZH85EiHNY ?
How do I size it for my type of RV. I got a panel van. Just look for a 2kw split air?
Same question regarding noise as for rectifiers. The noise of my fridge is already making me crazy.

but if you run on the regular blue plug i would just run a 220v electric heater, not the diesel.

I don't plan on being often plugged to 220v at night but I guess a small portable electric heater will same some money for when I am.

ps: i generally install inverters with a UPS feature. so you put them in line with the 16A plug. so if you have wall power it swiches over from battery to outside and when you disconnect or some moron pops the fuse you are also on you keep power as it instantly swiches over to battery power.

Is that the same mechanism as what I sometimes see refered as an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch)?
Do you have a recommendation for such an inverter?

ps: thanks for the help :wink:
You got to know all this via your job?

 

[flippy]

I don't want to risk to harm a 3KUSD+ laptop so I don't want to rely on cheap parts for that so that would need further research.
I don't know how the power negociation is done. The charger is a 5v@1A or 20v@6.5A USB-C (dell charger)
But thanks for reminding me of the idea of reducing the inefficiency due to DC->AC->DC conversion and energy saved by not running the inverter.
Can't the inverter be switched off remotely btw?

more expensive does not mean more better.

a dell usb c charger is JUST a sub c charger. noting more or less.
someting like this with a 24V input would power a tablet right from the wall:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Socket-Waterproof-Charger-Delivery-Motorcycle/dp/B07NV6XT41
or for anything non-laptop: https://www.carlingtech.com/controls-v-charger. this fits the "marine" switch holes so you can get nice panels for them.
or if you want to run the inverter you can use this: https://www.dc.systems/products/sockets/184-usb-c-100w-wall-socket-outlet
but that might be a tad overkill.

personally i would just have a couple 12v car lighter outlets around the RV and use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/EDECOA-Charger-Universal-Adapter-Fast-Charging/dp/B08H85J1VG
1 and done. no inverter needed. just runs straight off the 48V to 12V converter. and it has enough power to satisfy the dell/apple 60W power requirement.

yes, you can just take out the switch on the inverter and extend the wires to a central control panel. or several even. put one right next to the microwave for example.

An RST-5000-48 from mouser or digikey locally is around 1200USD.
And I would need another system as you said earlier for "slower" charging.
Interesting. Considering the cost, I'll probably start with 2 HRP600-36. I'll need to re-read the topic to understand what I'll have to do regarding the proper setup regarding "charge profiles" :lol:

there is nothing you need to do with these units. just turn the pot to the correct voltage and install them. fire and forget.
you do need some stuff on the battery side to keep everything balanced.

Are these units noisy btw?
I would sleep on top or very close to the battery box

the fans run based on load and temperature. they dont run at low power. putting in a silent noctua fan to circulate air inside the box would help preventing them from turning on for a few seconds if they get too hot at night or whatever.

So basically like this kind of unit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woZH85EiHNY ?
How do I size it for my type of RV. I got a panel van. Just look for a 2kw split air?
Same question regarding noise as for rectifiers. The noise of my fridge is already making me crazy.

something like that. but you just might install a "real" split air for the cost of those units. way more silent and efficient as well.
i recommend getting a 220V regular fridge and toss out the factory fitted one in the ducato and just have the inverter run the fridge all day. then you can buy a fridge focused on noise. you can also close the frdige holes on the outside so no more problem with water coming in.

I don't plan on being often plugged to 220v at night but I guess a small portable electric heater will same some money for when I am.

you can get heated mats you can put under your bed sheets. its awesome. the lidl/aldi sometimes have them. it can also heat the bed before you get in and runs at 20~30W or so all night. no need to heat up the whole RV. when you wake up use the remote of the heat pump and tay in bed for 10 more minutes for the place to heat up and you are never cold.

Is that the same mechanism as what I sometimes see refered as an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch)?

its called a relay. its nothing fancy.

Do you have a recommendation for such an inverter?

something like this would be fine if you just want something to run a microwave and whatever else you can think of like a electric heater: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32657773864.html
it has the relay built in.
they have smaller models ofcourse but price wise it does not change much due to shipping costs. and they have a small inbuilt charger but i would not recommend using that as it expects lead acid. so ask them to disable or remove the charger as you are going to use the meanwells.

pro tip: with a high power inverter (or a second one) you can run normal induction kooktops. no more gas and ventilation problems. and a lot more powerful...

ps: thanks for the help :wink:
You got to know all this via your job?

this sort of stuff IS my job/company. i make setups like this to pay the morgage.

generally i make such mobile setups for industrial welders that run 3 phase welders from the back of their van for example. normally i dont use stuff from aliexpress as these guys have different requirements, budgets and certain laws around commercial/industrial regulations. but i already have done about a dozen RV's like yours. i am working on getting my certificates so i can legally ( ) install heat pumps (AC's) into vans,RVs and trucks as outsourcing something weird as this is REALLY expensive. fun fact: in the summer running a 10kW welder it gets hot in a van, so AC is actually really useful for them.

 

[Aerox]

more expensive does not mean more better.

Yeah, I know. But when you don't know a topic well and don't want to go down the rabbit hole too deep, price and brand recognition is a proxy to what feels like safety. We are humans and as such predictably irrational.

the fans run based on load and temperature. they dont run at low power. putting in a silent noctua fan to circulate air inside the box would help preventing them from turning on for a few seconds if they get too hot at night or whatever.

So I would need to open the box and presumably void the warranty?

you can get heated mats you can put under your bed sheets. its awesome. the lidl/aldi sometimes have them. it can also heat the bed before you get in and runs at 20~30W or so all night. no need to heat up the whole RV. when you wake up use the remote of the heat pump and tay in bed for 10 more minutes for the place to heat up and you are never cold.

Ah interesting idea for the bed sheets combo with the remote

I am working on getting my certificates so i can legally ( ) install heat pumps (AC's) into vans,RVs and trucks as outsourcing something weird as this is REALLY expensive.

How easy/safe/expensive is it to handle the refrigerant lines setup on a DIY level (without former knowledge and tools related to pressure testing/refrigerant)?


Below is a few of your messages quoted from the thread.
I still have a few bits I'm not sure to understand yet. Writing below what I understood from it. Can you please correct it?

1: the CV section of a charging process can happen at ANY voltage.
2: the voltage of the charging process is dictated by the charger/power source.
3: every single CC/CV charger/power source will NOT increase its voltage beyond what is set.
4: every single CC/CV charger/power source will NOT increase its current beyond what is set.

1 & 2) The end user sets the max voltage based on the chemistry and charging specs of the cells. 3.65V for lifepo4 ?
In CC, Voltage rises so is the charger just limiting the Voltage vs "pushing" it?
I may be missing basic electrical related knowledge there.

So the charger decides to run in CC mode if target voltage is not reached. (by measuring the voltage using built-in circuitry?) then
once voltage is reached, charger switches to CV mode and then the current the battery can "take" depends on what the battery chemistry and IR is.

What I'm not sure of is:
Is it the charger that actively strives to maintain the voltage in CV (using electronics, algorithm and what not) or is it just electricial basic laws that make it like that?

Below are snippets that helped me to get there.

The charger caps the current during the CC portion (hence the name) as the cell will abosrb all the current it can in relation to its IR. so you need to protect the cell from itself during this stage. but once you reach your set voltage the current will naturally lower as the IR increases and the cell fills up to your set voltage (whatever that might be).

[...]

so the cell terminates the charging process naturally by itself without any input from the charger. you can just hook up a CC/CV supply to a cell and once the cell has reached its steady state at the set voltage nothing more will happen, just like communicating vessels do. at some point the level (voltage) is equal and nothing more will happen. it REALLY is that simple. so "terminating a charge" is completly unnessesary unless you are TESTING the cell.

 

[flippy]

So I would need to open the box and presumably void the warranty?

i meant the box where you put all these units and batteries in.

How easy/safe/expensive is it to handle the refrigerant lines setup on a DIY level (without former knowledge and tools related to pressure testing/refrigerant)?

its easy to lay it all out. but making the actual connections requires specialized tools and then you need to vaccum the system, leak check and all that fun stuff. it all requires expensive tools and some skill. (and a F-gas licence)
but you can lay out the insulated copper pipe and hang the units. but leave making the connections and making the unit operational to the professional.

Below is a few of your messages quoted from the thread.
I still have a few bits I'm not sure to understand yet. Writing below what I understood from it. Can you please correct it?

1: the CV section of a charging process can happen at ANY voltage.
2: the voltage of the charging process is dictated by the charger/power source.
3: every single CC/CV charger/power source will NOT increase its voltage beyond what is set.
4: every single CC/CV charger/power source will NOT increase its current beyond what is set.

1 & 2) The end user sets the max voltage based on the chemistry and charging specs of the cells. 3.65V for lifepo4 ?
In CC, Voltage rises so is the charger just limiting the Voltage vs "pushing" it?
I may be missing basic electrical related knowledge there.
So the charger decides to run in CC mode if target voltage is not reached. (by measuring the voltage using built-in circuitry?) then
once voltage is reached, charger switches to CV mode and then the current the battery can "take" depends on what the battery chemistry and IR is.

no, you bascially got it. in the early stage the voltage is not reached so it limits the current but whent he battery fills the voltage is reached and the voltage is limited.

What I'm not sure of is:Is it the charger that actively strives to maintain the voltage in CV (using electronics, algorithm and what not) or is it just electricial basic laws that make it like that?

the charger wants nothing. its just reacts to what the battery wants and limits according to your settings. its a naturally balanced system. simple electrical "laws" as you say.
you can use a CC/CV "charger" as a regular power supply. the only difference is that CC/CV units dont instantly shut down when you exeed the current draw like a normal power supply does.

 

[DogDipstick]

Can you run Elcons in series? Like a pair of PFC high power 36v Elcons.... ? A pair of Elcon TCCH 36-33 PFC 1500s? Two 36v matching for 72v @ 3kw?

Anybody know? I would like to try this. I can get them mega cheep. Cheep Cheep. I know you can pay for a reprogram, 100$, after sending it back... Flippy? John? I know you people have experience with them .

Isolated input mains of course.

 

[flippy]

Can you run Elcons in series? Like a pair of PFC high power 36v Elcons.... ? A pair of Elcon TCCH 36-33 PFC 1500s? Two 36v matching for 72v @ 3kw?

Anybody know? I would like to try this. I can get them mega cheep. Cheep Cheep. I know you can pay for a reprogram, 100$, after sending it back... Flippy? John? I know you people have experience with them .

Isolated input mains of course.

the units need to be fully isolated. if they have PFC then its reasonable to assume they are isolated. then it should not by any problems. but considering they are "smart" there is a very VERY high chance that they will not want to enable the output.

if you want something more usable: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32864489277.html

costs about the same. they also have much more powerful units.

 

[john61ct]

Elcon makes real chargers, documented, EV people familiar with them around the world, consistent high quality output.

There may be stuff sold on Ali that is as good, but I would really need to trust the recommendation source, and ideally multiple trusted sources agreeing for credibility.

I would only hook chargers (or PSUs) up in series if the manufacturer explicitly stated that was supported and they specifically documented how to do so.

And even then only for bareback packs, bypassing any protective / monitoring circuitry, especially an expensive BMS.

Spikes / surges etc that the bare cells themselves are fine with, can quickly destroy sensitive electronics, or just drastically but silently reduce lifespan.

 

[DogDipstick]

Well thanks guys. I can get them for 100$ ea. Shipped. I don't know if that's a good price, for used condition unknown ( operation al) ... I honestly should get them just to have them . Anyways thanks for the replies.

 

[flippy]

Elcon makes real chargers, documented, EV people familiar with them around the world, consistent high quality output.

There may be stuff sold on Ali that is as good, but I would really need to trust the recommendation source, and ideally multiple trusted sources agreeing for credibility.

I would only hook chargers (or PSUs) up in series if the manufacturer explicitly stated that was supported and they specifically documented how to do so.

And even then only for bareback packs, bypassing any protective / monitoring circuitry, especially an expensive BMS.

Spikes / surges etc that the bare cells themselves are fine with, can quickly destroy sensitive electronics, or just drastically but silently reduce lifespan.

Please nock off this bullshit. Your inabillity to grasp the charging process is not an excuse to spead a bunch of crap you only THINK know something about.

The question was if this will work. No, it will probably not work because these chargers refuse to work without seeing a battery voltage, wich they cant in series so the output will never be enabled. The charger i linked to does not have this issue.

 

[john61ct]

Well thanks guys. I can get them for 100$ ea. Shipped. I don't know if that's a good price, for used condition unknown ( operation al) ... I honestly should get them just to have them . Anyways thanks for the replies.

Yes crazy good.

Especially if you can get ahold of the higher range voltage models, but even just 48V can be very useful.

For non-propulsion users of course stock 12V and 24V at high amps are not cheap for that kind of quality with that critical auto termination functionality.

Figure out how to reprogram them yourself and you could have a nice sideline there.