Pedicab/rickshaw application intro and dilemma

3wheeler

10 µW
Joined
May 10, 2008
Messages
5
This is essentially a repeat post of one I just placed at the end of ort5's "Help... eZee, EV Tech BMC..." thread, modified and intended to attract more interested readers/posters here.

I recently purchased a BMC hub motor, with a flange drilled with 36 spoke holes, and a sticker with specifications that reads: Planetary geared brushless motor, P/N 13880, rotation CW lead end, output 250 watt Voltage 36VDC, phone 818-576-0505 (Brushless Motor Company)

My application is an electric assist on a Pedicab, initially and specifically for a special event this summer which involves some short hills on dirt. I need high torque but also want some speed. (I have 11 years professional experience as a pedi-cabber and "freight tricyclist" courier in S.F. but now the 3 wheeler is a side interest. Until now I've only idly dreamed of electric assist). I opted not to use the high-torque Heinzmann "Carrier" (see pedicab.com) because of expense , reports of overheating tendencies, and the adventure (and gamble) of trying something new which will also move faster than 10 mph! I held off (for now) on the Crystalite Brute because I'd rather not have a motor which drags when freewheeling. I took a chance on BMC because of the non-drag quality and my interest (naive perhaps) inspired by reading reports of its relative high torque. I realize the best way to make the swift electric vehicle out of my 3 wheeler is to figure out a more powerful rear drive system (I've seen it done) and hope to do that some day but right now don't have the time, facilities and wherewithal to accomplish such a major re-cofiguration before the July event.

Front wheel assist will have to do for now what it can, while the human drives the chain driven, differential geared rear axle and wheels.

I was sold a system, pieced together that day on my pedicab/rickshaw 3 wheeler equipped with my flatbed set up. I was sold the BMC hub/wheel, thumb throttle, a 37V 25 amp controller and was told I may and will probably want to upgrade to a 35 amp controller, which was unavailable to me at the time, (but the vendor has just now agreed to put on together for me...)

While shown an iron phosphate option, I opted for a battery, self described with specification on it reading:

POLYMER LI ION BATTERY
Capcity: 20 Ah
Nominal Voltage: 37V
Max Discharging Current: 40A
S/N M10-02A-A027
POINT 1 TECH SHANGHAI

The chemistry is LiMnCo. I was told the battery was made within the last 6 months or so. I was also told It performs well on electric bikes because of high performance discharge quailties. I may get another to run in parallel with this or a crystalite brute. Thoughts?

I assisted in the hook-up and took a test drive with the salesman sitting on the flat-bed that. Results were mildly inspiring.

After a day later, having to re-splice a connection, and a week later after aquiring 13g at head 14 at nipple spokes, Sun Rhyno-Lite rim and building my own 3X pattern wheel, I have been successfully and at times delightfully bombing around San Rafael, CA on a funny electric powered rickshaw which can accelerate up to noticable speed (20-25 mphish peadling without large loads) which competes with traffic and turns heads. I've scaled some decent grades with spandex clad road bikers. I'm excited and very interested about my newfound hobby and potential business prospects.

The battery has an uprgraded BMS which I was told doesn't shut down so easily. I've seen the voltmeter read as high as 41.7 after charging. I haven't yet drained it lower than a 40V read. It seems to have pretty good range.

BUT I now see that the present configuration will not give me enough power/torque to assist pulling bigger loads (like 2-3 people) up grades (I don't expect any velocity for hills, just being able to have some help is fine). This will depend upon the ability of a strong driver to pedal at a minimum velocity to enable electric assist.

Questions:

Will the 35 amp controller give me noticably more torque? This the next logical step in my experimentation process. will torque still depend upon the same threshold vehicle velocity to kick in?

Can I use this battery in combination with another like it to upgrade the power of my present system, and/or with a Crystalite brute motor? I think I can after talking with my vendor/friend.

Any comments on any aspect of my post and components involved, and insight into my needs and dilemma are appreciated.

Any questions about what I'm going through, now and long-term down the road, that can be of any help or interest to anyone will also be happily shared.

3wheeler
1 µW


Posts: 1
Joined: Sat May 10, 2008 6:59 am
 
3wheeler said:
Any comments on any aspect of my post and components involved, and insight into my needs and dilemma are appreciated.
Welcome.

A bit of friendly advice: Sell or return the Point1 Lipo asap and get LiFe or LiMn. Until it is sold: never charge the battery pack indoors or unattended, never over-discharge the battery.

Other than that, Have a great time!!

:mrgreen:
 
Cool. I'll have to check that one out.
I live in Terra Linda.

More amps will give more torque.
 
if you're bounding around at 20 mph, you're doing ok.

a pedicab with 3 people on it is a huge load for a motor only rated for 250 watts. There's really no other way of looking at it.

The easiest improvement is to up the voltage. I'm finding that around 48v, these hub hub motors perform much better. If your controller can handle it, find yourself 4 cheap SLA batteries (for a total of 48v) and experiment to see if the performance is what you need. If it is, see if you can add to your lithium batteries to get 48v. Also, I understand that the BMC motors have very thin wires going to the motor. You might want to change these wires to larger gauge but this isn't totally necessary... unless you plan to upgrade your controller to 35 amps. If you upgrade your controller to 35 amps, you're batteries are going to take a beating. You'll eventually need more batteries to feed the 35 amp controller.
 
Thanks for the welcome and constructive responses. For now I've attached a pic taken about a month ago, pre- electric system, in flatbed mode with a chest of drawers I scavenged off the sidewalk. I just received a new passenger seat the other day. I'll include pictures of it and the electric setup soon if desired. I really do appreciate the comments.



I might get my hands on a 35 amp controller this afternoon. I didn't fully consider that it would "beat up" on my battery. I'll have to watch that. Of course more power will drain the juice. I may have to run another similar battery in parallel. Can we really mix battery chemistries as suggested, connected cheaper SLAs to Lithium?

Addressing some points made here:

The 250 Watt rating, I found out yesterday, only appears on the hub label so the motors can be legally shipped out of China, where the final assembly takes place. That's their limit on bicycle assist. They're more like 400 watt motors with capability of running at 1000 watts for short periods of stress and/or load. Nonetheless I do realize I need a more powerful motor for the application and this might happen soon if I'm lucky.

As far as the safety and my LIMnCo 37V 20 Ah battery goes, I thought once Mn enters the compound mix, the chemistry is safe from the oxidation process which causes the fires and explosions. I thought battery manufacturers have had a handle on this for some
[/img]time now. I also found out yesterday that the battery I have...

POLYMER LI ION BATTERY
Capcity: 20 Ah
Nominal Voltage: 37V
Max Discharging Current: 40A
S/N M10-02A-A027
POINT 1 TECH SHANGHAI

...is the in house BMC battery designed specifically for the motor. There have never been any safety issues with it, even earlier versions where there problems were with premature shutdown with the BMS. Nonetheless I do recognize Li iron phosphate is the way to go and that I spent too much money on this battery. I'm learning the hard way but it's been useful to have equipment that gives me some performance and experience to enable my discovery process.
 
3wheeler said:
There have never been any safety issues with it, even earlier versions where there problems were with premature shutdown with the BMS. Nonetheless I do recognize Li iron phosphate is the way to go and that I spent too much money on this battery. I'm learning the hard way but it's been useful to have equipment that gives me some performance and experience to enable my discovery process.
It is typical LiCo chemistry. There is still a lot being produced for the Chinese market that is coming to the west. It is unstable and should be handled with all due-dilligence.

The stable Mn = LiMn2O4
 
i wasn't suggesting mixing li with SLA but if you have one spare 12v SLA battery and you want to put it in series with your LI pack and run it down the block once or twice, it might be ok... or it will cause your controller to go poof if your FETs aren't rated for the higher voltage. It's not recommended to mix different types of batteries.

When I say "beat up", i mean the higher current will cause the batteries to drain faster and shorten the overall life of your pack.
 
I picked up an old Iowa Linear recumbent a while back. Once I weld up the frame cracks I may make it electric. The motor I've been eying is the Cyclone's 500w motor with the mid-drive sprockets. (http://www.cyclone-tw.com god that website SUCKS. ~3/5th of the way down) Why I bring this up for you is that a mid-drive system like this lets me use all the rear gearing on my bike. Thus allowing me to use a low gear to haul heavy loads up steep hills and a high gear to fly down the other side of the hill. For me, it should be simple to install due to the Linear's loonnngggg chain line.

I think one or two people on the forum are using or have installed a version of this. Cyclone 650W vs 500W (third page) right at the end is a great pic of Pete's handywork. http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=9161 someone's install of a cyclone 500w mid-drive onto a Rholoff speed-hub equipped trike.

My 2 watts,
Marty
 
Good point. On a superheavy ride, having multiple gears for the motor will be a great benifit if you run across a hill. There is quite a bit of room on the frame for attaching things too. Something like a Stokemonkey drive made from a rear hub motor might work well.
 
fechter said:
Good point. On a superheavy ride, having multiple gears for the motor will be a great benifit if you run across a hill. There is quite a bit of room on the frame for attaching things too. Something like a Stokemonkey drive made from a rear hub motor might work well.

Can you bolt a sprocket to the side of the BMC hub? Then you could mount it on the frame by its axle so that the body spins and a drives an extra chainwheel.
 
JennyB said:
fechter said:
Good point. On a superheavy ride, having multiple gears for the motor will be a great benifit if you run across a hill. There is quite a bit of room on the frame for attaching things too. Something like a Stokemonkey drive made from a rear hub motor might work well.

Can you bolt a sprocket to the side of the BMC hub? Then you could mount it on the frame by its axle so that the body spins and a drives an extra chainwheel.

Looks like the BMC hub has a threaded side-plate available. That's the only part of a Stokemonkey clone system that requires precision machining. A drill and careful fitting with a file is plenty to make the motor mount, and the rest can be purchased/salvaged.

My 2 watts,
Marty

p.s. Stokemonkey Mfg for lazy people
 
Wow, such friendly productive responses! I hope I can give back as I become more experienced in electric drive, but presently can share from background as a veteran rickshaw owner/operator, in and out the business since 1992. See comments below about my experience with the big rigs of human powered transport below.

The last three responses concerning mid-drive and frame mounting are right on with respect to my longer term intentions with the 21st century rickshaw. As mentioned, I'm working with front wheel drive for the time being because of simplicity. I have to be sure I'm going to have something that will at least help for a very special early July event I will be serving in pedicab mode. (Has anyone noticed how time seems to be going by faster and faster?) Mounting and testing the 35 amp controller yesterday afternoon gives me more reason to believe I've indeed found something!

To address mid and rear drive possibilities, lets look at the chain drive set-up on the Main Street Pedicab "classic" frame.

rckswChainDr.jpg

I would very much like to have the electric assist work through the gears, thank you lawsonuw, as in the various effective recumbent two and three-wheel set-ups out there. But I have configuration hang-ups for this presently, for here the pedal chain drive gearing is not elongated as in the recumbent. If it was this three wheeler would not be nearly so efficient in pedal mode as it is. There's a reason for this configuration. Notice the larger one-speed, 1/8" pin-width chain driving the rear, while a narrower 3/32" width works on standard chainrings and cogs in the front. A long narrow chain extend too far in the load carrying application would be stressed and stretched too much, prone to breaking and requiring frequent changing to avoid also premature cog and chain ring wear due to the action of a stretched chain. For a cycling purist, an excessively long chain line from crank to cogs reduces performance due to chain stretch, extra chain tensioning components etc., as well as IMO compromised shifting precision.

It might be possible to extend the front drive chainline somewhat to allow the intervention of a motor, but I still cringe at the idea for now.

JennyB's bright comment about a sprocket bolted to the BMC motor, which would be mounted to the frame is a very interesting future possibility, especially with the more powerful motor I eventually hope to work with. We see there is plenty of room to do this between the present transfer hub and the rear differential gear.

Yesterday afternoon's ride in the neighborhood with the 35 amp controller was a hit! Not only was there a new found experience in electric assist power, bolting my rig to near 20 mph speed with pedaling even up small grades very quickly, I did it unknowingly in front of the neighborhood association president! The chain on her daughter's bike was jammed between its outer chainring and a guard. I freed it, adjusted the limit screw on the front derailleur, and we shook chain crud dirtied hands! Instant bond. Good thing I didn't plow into her daughter's bike instead!

I do have 11 years professional experience as a three wheeled pedal pusher, both as pedi-cabber and cargo biker, and mechanical improviser on these rigs, and know people in the business, including the manufacturer of this one, a Main Street Pedicab, (pedicab.com), with whom I have communicated and shared ides with since 1994, if that helps anyone. These bikes are the tractor trailer big rigs of human powered transport. I'm also helping the owner of the San Franciaco Pedicab operation maintain his bikes, especially now that he's on vacation, and can help advise on people get jobs there if desired. I may attempt helping him introduce electric assist on some of his pedicabs, and we may also attempt to have a delivery business sideline. One of my old clients, in fact my highest volume customer, at a downtown copy shop, says he still has work for us.

Today is the first day of the rest of our lives. :wink:
 
The pedicabs in Amsterdam use an ungeared hubmotor through a 5 speed geared hub.
 
The majority of enthusiasts here are much more experienced than me, but I feel compelled to add a suggestion.

On hills with 2 or 3 passengers, weight will cause a big problem with heat, and you seem aware of this. I think your front-wheel BMC is fairly light as far as motors go because its internally geared. If you were asking me, I would suggest adding a very small/light second motor/controller by copying one of the BB double freewheel-drives (Cyclone-style with stronger component upgrade) and using an RC-motor.

I believe using an RC motor through the bikes gears would be very efficient leading to more range and a smaller battery pack when lightly loaded on the flats. Then, on heavy cargo up-hills, two triggers/two controllers/two motors would greatly help overheating.

Just a thought...

Pic from page 16 of the Kona DC1 RC thread

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