pelican 1300 filled with lipo

[Racer_X]

I've got the Pelican 1200 case. Wouldn't say there's plenty of room for wires, but there is just enough with 8 6s 5ah Zippy packs. Looking at the box from the front of the bike, there's about a half inch on either side of the pack, a quarter-inch for bottom padding, and about an inch and a half on top for the wiring and harness. There's no extra room at all front-to-back; no space for padding and I have to load the bricks so the little bulge on the wire side faces sideways.

Beachcruizer, can you post some pictures. I was thinking of doing something similar, I have 8 x 6s lipos for a 12s4p pack.

 

[GCinDC]

the cushioned clamps and they fit amazing well and are very strong. helpful measurements listed on the for sale page. not used em yet tho...

 

[Beachcruzer]

I've got the Pelican 1200 case. Wouldn't say there's plenty of room for wires, but there is just enough with 8 6s 5ah Zippy packs. Looking at the box from the front of the bike, there's about a half inch on either side of the pack, a quarter-inch for bottom padding, and about an inch and a half on top for the wiring and harness. There's no extra room at all front-to-back; no space for padding and I have to load the bricks so the little bulge on the wire side faces sideways.

Beachcruizer, can you post some pictures. I was thinking of doing something similar, I have 8 x 6s lipos for a 12s4p pack.

Yes, but it will be a day or two. Working overtime now. The key is that you can't drill four holes to attach to the clamps, because there's no margin even for flathead screws to fit on the inside of the box without rubbing holes in your packs. I attached brackets to the flanges on the bottom of the box (where Oatnet put his on/off switch) to attach to the lower clamps. That left enough room to install bolts and washers for the upper clamps only on the inside of the box. They fit just above the top of the packs in the ~2 inches of headroom where the wiring fits.

After writing all that, it's pretty clear you need a picture. . . .

 

[Beachcruzer]

Okay, here are some pics of my Pelican 1200 with 8 bricks of 6s5ah Zippy lipo.




The 1200 is narrower than the 1300 case. That's the attraction, but also the challenge. Mounting clamp solution stolen directly from Oatnet's thread, and works like a charm. Thanks Oatnet!

View attachment 5
Loaded two deep. That's half-inch camping pad (closed cell foam) on the sides, and the last six inches of my wife's yoga pad on the bottom. No, she doesn't know yet.


The height of two Zippy bricks is precisely the same as the inside dimension of the Peli 1200 case, to the millimeter!


There's a tiny bit of compression when you close the case. The pack doesn't want to slide anywhere.


Because it's such a tight fit, putting even a very thin flathead screw or washer under the packs is a complete non-starter. But the height of the box leaves only about two inches above the packs, and the width leaves only an inch to play with, so there was no good way to place four bolts and washers for the attachment points. I used hardware-store L-brackets to secure the bottom clamps to the fins on the bottom of the Peli case. I was skeptical when I started, but this attachment is rock solid. Still need to spray the hardware matte black, but that will wait.


The empty case. Packs sit below the bolts and washers. I need to sand down the serial stamps on the inside to prevent pack abrasion. It's that tight.


To minimize the wiring harness, I parallelled each pair of packs at the discharge leads by double-crimping them into Anderson connectors. The Anderson block on the pack snaps into another Anderson block that puts the packs into series, giving me 100 volts at 24s/2p. Another parallelled Anderson block allows me to parallel charge all the packs at once using my 6s balance charger at6s/8p. I haven't joined the balance taps. It's very easy plug-and-play, but still not as compact as I want, so I'm going to try something new this weekend. The parallel/series Anderson blocks are a variation on my first harness from IceCube157 and all credit goes to him.


The bike with Pelican 1200 mounted. This ride is still in beta testing so don't look too closely at the loose wires.

 

[Racer_X]

Wow Beachcruizer. That ride is taking it to the next level, Awesome.
Thanks for all the pictures and information, it is very helpful.

Edit* How does it handle with the weight in the forks? I remember Oatnet saying it was something that you get used too and you forget it is there.
I think this solution will probably be even better because it is a tighter smaller package, an evolution of Oatnet's vision.

 

[Beachcruzer]

Wow Beachcruizer. That ride is taking it to the next level, Awesome.
Thanks for all the pictures and information, it is very helpful.

Edit* How does it handle with the weight in the forks? I remember Oatnet saying it was something that you get used too and you forget it is there.
I think this solution will probably be even better because it is a tighter smaller package, an evolution of Oatnet's vision.

Not an evolution really. More like an outright copy of Oatnet's solution. I just took a chance that the advertised dimensions of the Zippys and Peli case were accurate. If you're running an eight-brick pack and can live with a very tight fit, I think this is a good way to go.

I don't even notice the weight on the bars. Maybe that's because I'm coming from my cruiser build which has both motor and batteries mounted in front of the head tube.

 

[oatnet]

Nice light balanced build. That is the best front-mount LiPo implementation I have seen, 8 bricks into a super compact shape, tight to the center of rotation, stealthy as all heck. The l-bracket is a great innovation that splits the load onto the beefy braces on the bottom of the case, and off the 1200's back panel. I might just make a 100% copy on a demo bike. Now that we know what fits, I expect you will have a lot of people following your lead, great contribution.

Did you get a chance to weigh the complete case/clamps/pack? I think below 12-15lb the weight is pretty transparent, while being just enough to feel 75% of the handling benefit.

Hey I just realized you put it on an FSR frame too, great choice! Are those Dr bass torque arms?

-JD

 

[Beachcruzer]

I didn't even think to weigh it. I imagine the Peli box and brackets weigh about the same as yours, maybe a few ounces less. There's not too much difference in size between 1200 and 1300, and it's mostly in the depth of the case. . . . well that made me curious so I looked it up. Official Pelican site has the 1200 weighing in at 2.65 lbs/1.2 kg, with internal dimensions of 235 x 181 x 105 mm. The 1300 is 233 x 178 x 155 mm, and 3.09 lbs/1.4 kg dry. So the 1300 is actually a few millimeters smaller in two dimensions. So if you wanted to put 12 lipo bricks in a Peli case I bet it would just fit in the 1300. Zippy 6s/5ah bricks are listed at 148 x 51 x 51 mm, though those specs are a little more variable than Pelican's.

Yes, that's a Big Hit with Dr. Bass torque plates.

 

[oatnet]

The paper exercise is a great guide, but I'm always looking for real-world reports of what it weighs when you get it on the bike, with fuses and switches and balance harness and power wire and heatshrink and l-brackets and everything else fiddly that sneaks in along the way.

If you think of it next time you have the front pack off, we can compare your kw pack to my Life kw pack, we have similar mounting with reduced packaging, so this is a chance to really quantify the size/weight benefit of LiPo.

BTW, are you sure the shock will bottom out before the lowers hit the case? It is hard for to evaluate from pictures, but it is something I always worry about for myself.

-JD

 

[Beachcruzer]

Next time I have it off I'll definitely weigh it. Did some harness mods this weekend that make it fit a little more easily, and should make charging a one-plug operation. Was psyched to give it a test ride and plugged it in without the precharge (not wired up yet) and fried my connectors. So, to be continued.

The fork should bottom just before the tire hits the case, but without dropping a big cliff to test it I'm just going to take it on faith. I'm 100 percent on-road so far, but there are some mountain bike trails near here that are staring to call my name . . . .

 

[andreym]

Here is mine pelican 1300 case
it is very tight fit but I wanted the best kwhrs/pelican case ratio
10pcs of ZippyCompact 9S 5.8ah for total of 18S5P configuration. 1900wh nominal 1700+wh usable (4.15->3.6 for long life)

custom made clamps

still some clearance for the fork crown

and it is done:

additional 800wh battery was tapeted to the frame before long trip from Moscow to Saint-Petersburg

today it is more than 4k km later it is still tight and no movement at all.
Also never balanced the pack - now it is less than 10mv difference fully charged.

 

[oatnet]

Here is mine pelican 1300 case
it is very tight fit but I wanted the best kwhrs/pelican case ratio
10pcs of ZippyCompact 9S 5.8ah for total of 18S5P configuration. 1900wh nominal 1700+wh usable (4.15->3.6 for long life)
today it is more than 4k km later it is still tight and no movement at all.
Also never balanced the pack - now it is less than 10mv difference fully charged.

Wow, that is a lot of WH, nice implementation andreym! I like how the clamps bolt down on the inside for a no-line look. Did you get a chance to weigh it, fully loaded and built? I'm always looking for that as-built weight, because my builds always end up heavier than they started out on paper. :lol:

-JD

 

[andreym]

Total weight of the case+batteries+wires = 12.9kg.
I have not checked the weight of clamps, but I believe not more than 200-300grams for all 4 of them.

 

[GCinDC]

no more drafting trucks and busses to make it all the way to work?

looks awesome! i'm looking forward to winter vids.

u gonna mount the light on/below the case? it looks a bit high up there or is it not distracting?

 

[MattyCiii]

Hi all I'm new to the Pelican Case club. What's the best way to get battery power out of the case? I was thinking drill holes for individual (+) and (-) 10AWG wires, maybe with grommets.

I have 8 LiPo bricks inside. Plan to parallel them into two 4p clusters, and bring the two sets of +/- leads out of the case. Outside the case I'll series them up to power the motor, and parallel them up for charging. I'd like to bring the balance leads out too, one for each of the 4p clusters. This way I can balance charge with the Hyena balance charger.

What are your thoughts? I wouldn't mind using something like a VGA connector for the balance leads (15 pin D type connector) - would that work?

 

[Beachcruzer]

Hi all I'm new to the Pelican Case club. What's the best way to get battery power out of the case? I was thinking drill holes for individual (+) and (-) 10AWG wires, maybe with grommets.

I have 8 LiPo bricks inside. Plan to parallel them into two 4p clusters, and bring the two sets of +/- leads out of the case. Outside the case I'll series them up to power the motor, and parallel them up for charging. I'd like to bring the balance leads out too, one for each of the 4p clusters. This way I can balance charge with the Hyena balance charger.

What are your thoughts? I wouldn't mind using something like a VGA connector for the balance leads (15 pin D type connector) - would that work?

I've got a similar setup to what you're planning, 8 lipos in a Pelican 1200 box. I do my series/parallel switching in the box, with only the 10 AWG +/- leads and the 14 AWG precharge lead exiting the case. Here's a picture.

At top is an Anderson "series block." I mounted it to the box by cutting a row of the Anderson plastic terminals in half and epoxying them to the box. The series block clicks into that. The packs lead into a matching Anderson terminal block. I plug that into the series block and I've got 24s 2p.

When it's time to charge, I open the Peli box, unplug the series block, and plug the charger in to a 'parallel block'--an 8-pack of Andersons leading back to the charger. Now I'm charging at 6s 8p. I do that with the pack on the bike--just open the 'trunk' and juice it. If I want to balance charge, I slide the pack out of the Peli box, plug in the balance leads, and charge on the bench.

 

[melodious]

Wow. I didn't know how small of a footprint we could make with the pelican boxes. I'd assumed from previous threads/builds that 1300 and 1400 were the standard. From what I remember reading, I believe someone here has fit 8x 6s LiPo bricks within a 1300. I'm not sure with the 1400. Only reason I'm posting is because I'm thinking of using a Pelican box or something similar to what others have accomplished, typically, with better than adequate results. Would it be possible to show a pic of your 1200 box with your battery configuration?

I was thinking of using Methods HVC/LVC boards within the box. I want to say this limits my choice of boxes that I can use...

 

[MattyCiii]

Wow. I didn't know how small of a footprint we could make with the pelican boxes. I'd assumed from previous threads/builds that 1300 and 1400 were the standard. From what I remember reading, I believe someone here has fit 8x 6s LiPo bricks within a 1300.

The first page of this thread discusses this, with pictures.

Would it be possible to show a pic of your 1200 box with your battery configuration?

He covers this nicely on page 4 of this thread. http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37759&start=45#p634997

I was thinking of using Methods HVC/LVC boards within the box. I want to say this limits my choice of boxes that I can use...

I plan to put the LVC board into this box myself. Even with the very tight fit of 8 * 8AH 6s LiPo, two boards should fit with enough space for wiring.

 

[melodious]

I was thinking of using Methods HVC/LVC boards within the box. I want to say this limits my choice of boxes that I can use...

I plan to put the LVC board into this box myself. Even with the very tight fit of 8 * 8AH 6s LiPo, two boards should fit with enough space for wiring.

1200 model: 9.25" x 7.12" x 4.12" (L x W x H)
1300 model: 9.25" x 7.12" x 6.12" (L x W x H)

From pictures, there is very little room in the 1200 when filled with 8* LiPo bricks. Seems the 1300 would give you 2" of headroom to accomodate LVC/HVC boards.

Let's look at Method's boards shall we? http://www.methtek.com/2011/11/12/lvchvcparallel-boards-10/

So my guess is that 1300 is the way to go if your goal is to have up to 8* LiPo bricks w/1* or 2* LVC/HVC boards. How you want to configure the batteries is up to you and the motor/controller your running. :wink:

 

[MattyCiii]

I was thinking of using Methods HVC/LVC boards within the box. I want to say this limits my choice of boxes that I can use...

I plan to put the LVC board into this box myself. Even with the very tight fit of 8 * 8AH 6s LiPo, two boards should fit with enough space for wiring.

1200 model: 9.25" x 7.12" x 4.12" (L x W x H)
1300 model: 9.25" x 7.12" x 6.12" (L x W x H)

From pictures, there is very little room in the 1200 when filled with 8* LiPo bricks. Seems the 1300 would give you 2" of headroom to accomodate LVC/HVC boards.

Let's look at Method's boards shall we? http://www.methtek.com/2011/11/12/lvchvcparallel-boards-10/

So my guess is that 1300 is the way to go if your goal is to have up to 8* LiPo bricks w/1* or 2* LVC/HVC boards. How you want to configure the batteries is up to you and the motor/controller your running. :wink:

There are a lot of variables at play here: If like me you're definitley going with 6s LiPo bricks, there are dozens of choices of size based on different amp hour rating and differnt maker's size measurements. Amp hour ratings make the big difference of course, you need more "stuff" in each cell to get more AH. The risk of miscalculation is either extra space that goes to waste, or too-tight a fit requiring change in plans and loss of desired functionality.

I had just started making these measurements when VintageRider's kit came up for sale. So I skipped the whole planning process and bought something already known to fit together.

So with this Pelican 1300 in hand, and 8 * 6s, 8000mAH packs, I'm just now getting to connecting it all up as 12s4p with LVC board and convenient access to balance taps. It will be a heck of a tight fit as those 8000mAH packs are big. With all the foam removed, I have about 1/4" on the top, side and front of the Pelican. I can fit two LVC boards into the case, but barely (they're about 1/4" high). It will definitely be a challenge for me to get wiring, LVC boards, and a bit of padding into this case with these large batteries.

 

[oatnet]

1200 model: 9.25" x 7.12" x 4.12" (L x W x H)
1300 model: 9.25" x 7.12" x 6.12" (L x W x H)

Although I used a Pelican 1300 on the Enduro Comp for 20s/a123 16ah prisimatics, I needed a little bit more space for 24s/a123 on the Norco A-Line, so I used a Pelican Storm im2075, interior dimensions: 9.50" x 7.50" x 7.25". The 2075 is part of the "storm IM" series, and is way more robust than the 1200/1300/1400, but that makes the outside a little bulkier. In the pic below, the pelican 1300 (3lbs 3.3oz) is on the top, the 2075im (3lb 7.5oz) is in the middle, and the ammo can (@6lbs) is on the bottom.

Matty, I liked running the power leads out the bottom, so that moisture can only drain out of them. Both the Pelicans I used had support beams on the bottom, opposite the handle. On the im2075, those support beams were hollow, and open only to the back of the case; I drilled holes for my power leads into those hollow beams - which made the case completely splash-proof - and mounted my power switches right into those beams. On the 1300 I dropped the wires just inside the support beams so they weren't visible from the outside.

Since balancing my LiFe is only a semi-annual thing, I am able to keep the balance wires inside the box, but with lipo you have different requirements. Cautionary tale: I used to run long balance wires for my packs, but once I got a short between a pair of balance wires, and the resultant plasma ball melted the insulation so ALL of the cells shorted together, and I had a burny, cloudy mess on my hands. Now I try to keep the balance tap as close to the cells as possible, or put fuses on them.

the 2075 with (4) 14ga wires for each power lead, dropped right into the hollow base

-JD

 

[MattyCiii]

Awesome, great info guys!

Beachcruzer,
I like the "open the case to charge" idea. Really simplifies case penetrations. Looks like for me it'll be main power leads for (+), (-), and a 6 wire cable bundle for throttle in/out to and from the Methods LVC boards. I'm thinking I'll keep the balance taps fully inside.

Oatnet,
Thanks for the info on the Pelican Storm, it's a nice upgrade in space over the 1300 if I need it, and it is on Amazon for under $43.

Right now I'm waiting on the parts I need to mount the case to the bike. Gawd, one of these days I need to stop being cheap and pay for the express shipping

 

[Beachcruzer]

I was thinking of using Methods HVC/LVC boards within the box. I want to say this limits my choice of boxes that I can use...

I plan to put the LVC board into this box myself. Even with the very tight fit of 8 * 8AH 6s LiPo, two boards should fit with enough space for wiring.

I think there's a good chance you could fit 8 packs and the balance boards into a 1200 case, especially if you wire them 12s 4p. To do that you'll have to cut the bullet terminals off fairly close to the packs, and parallel the power leads. You should be able to do that in such a way that the bulk of the wiring can be pulled to one side of the 4-pack group and taped flat. That will make room for the parallel boards. You'll only have two leads from each 4p grouping, so the series block will be pretty compact (4 Andersons). You won't know until you try, but if you want compact and you want balance boards, I'd give it a shot.

With a 1300 or Storm, it'd be easy.

You might try your local outdoor store (REI, MEC, etc.) for Peli boxes. That way you can dry-fit everything before you start drilling holes, and exchange for a different size if need be. You pay a bit more at a brick-and-mortar store, but most of the time it's worth it.

 

[GrayKard]

Here's a case that's similar to the storm version of the pelicans. It's an SKB brand case that I purchased here: http://www.casesbysource.com/product/skb-waterproof-case-empty-3i-0907-6b-e


I'm just tossing this out there because you may find the size you need in this other brand. Here it is with 9 Turnigy 20C 6s 5ah packs inside. Plenty of room for wiring and Methods boards.


And here it is with 12 of the same bricks. Not much space left, not even sure you could wire it up and still have the case close...


The interior dimensions of this case are:
H - 6.25"
W - 9.5"
L - 7.25"

Gary

***edit: corrected the dimensions***

 

[melodious]

Deja vu! I was at my local sporting goods store today (http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=15847826) and I looked at that very case! I can't compare it to a pelican brand as I've never seen and inspected one, but from what I've read, the pelican case is pretty beefy allowing a nice stiff and sturdy setup. I came to the conclusion that there may be some flexing (and ultimately some failure) with the plastic with the SKB case. But who knows, with a good mounting system for that SKB, it should be a solid alternative as well. I think an L bracket on the very bottom would help.

edit: on the very bottom of your SKB case (not shown in the picture) there are 2 rows of protruding plastic. Probably meant as a means to place it on a level surface. What's nice, is it's about the width of the forks. What if you were to place 2 small strips of metal to give a bit more rigidity for the mounting