I have a 36v 15 Ahr battery (540 Whr) and a 7 mile one way every day. Also have a 72v 5 Ahr (360 Whr) bike. Yours is a 48V 10 Ahr pack. The 540 Whr pack will do the trip twice (it is on a mid-mount though). The 360 Whr once (hub motor bike). I seldom ever charge at the midpoint and have never run out of juice. Note that the bigger battery will give you a higher discharge rate, for a fixed voltage. I note also that, if I push the 360 Whr battery, it would just barely make it back.
Range will depend highly on your route and your use of the throttle. My route is pretty hilly. If you have a flat route and you keep your speed and acceleration down (speed under 25 mph, say), the smaller battery will be fine. Note that battery capacity will drop over time; however, I have approx. 5000 miles on the 540 Whr battery (similar to a Ping) and is is still in good shape. I am not a watt hog, exp. on that bike however. That battery is on a mid-drive and it has never seen over 20 amps (1.3 C) and is currently limited to 1 C (15 amps). I would never be able to get away with this on a hub motor on my route however. The hub motor sees 20 amps for short bursts at (nominally) 70v so that is 1400W or 4C. The battery in that case is "LiPO" (standard Turnigy chemistry, not sure of the exact form of Li) with a 25C rating.
As far as putting on Andersons, they can be crimped on or soldered on. I have actually had better luck with crimping, but be careful not to crimp them so aggressively that they bend the contact shaft or they can be difficult to get in the housing. If you bend them back into shape, you have to be a bit careful not to overdo it, but it is pretty simple. In my first experience with Andersons, I had trouble getting the contacts in the housing. I recommend using a very small screwdriver (or similar thing) to push the contact fully into the housing from the "back" side". There is actually a tool for doing this but a jeweler's screwdriver works well also. When it is in all the way, you will hear a "click" and there will be a little slop between the contact and the housing. The housings are made so that the contacts go in relatively easily but don't come back out, unless you pry inside the housing. The contact only goes in correctly one way; if you get it upside down, it will be difficult to insert and will not "click" into position. Just look carefully at the inside of the housing and the contact and you will see that the contact has a little lip at the end that snaps over a plastic lip in the housing. They are about as easy to put on as any shielded connector and easier than most. I am certain you can do it. If you opt to solder them on, you have to be careful not to get too much solder on the contact or it will be difficult to get in the housing and it might not seat properly. My only complaint with Andersons is that the smaller size doesn't hold on great when connected and I have had a problem with bad crimps where the wire pulled out, when used with a small gauge wire. If you ever use them on a fairly small gauge wire, you have to be careful to crimp them properly or the wire will pull out under a little stress.
Best thing to do is get several extras and practice. After 3, you will be ready to go, I imagine. You will want to be able to put on the connectors yourself anyway. There is a reasonable chance you will have to repair one in the future and it is just easier to do it yourself than to take it to a shop.
