PROJECT no 4 Doc's Giant DH comp 2003

www.hobbycity.com or www.hobbyking.com
 
are his batteries comparable to http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9965 ?
 
They pretty much are either Turnigy or Zippy Flightmax packs. Im not sure which C rated packs he has but once you put enough in parallel it doesnt matter. I have a 18s pack 3p. For 66v 15AH thats rated for 25-30C. but with 3 packs in parallel you could power a small EV/Car with it. Almost 400A of discharge current......wow
 
so if i would buy 6 of these batteries i would have the same battery power as doctorbass?
 
You need a minimum of 4 6s packs to get to 100v. This will only give you 5AH which would be about 5 miles of hard riding. Doc has a 100v 15AH pack which translates to 12 packs. So Its your choice to get 4 packs with high voltage and no range. Or get 8 packs and decent range. Or go all out like Doc an get 12 Packs.
 
so if i buy 12 of these batteries, A crystalyte 5303 motor and a Lyen 18 Fet controller, i would have the same performance?
 
bosnimf said:
so if i buy 12 of these batteries, A crystalyte 5303 motor and a Lyen 18 Fet controller, i would have the same performance?
Click to expand...
I think Doc has quite a lot more behind his set-up than just those basics. But yes you could have the same performance for a ride or two :lol:
 
bosnimf said:
so if i buy 12 of these batteries, A crystalyte 5303 motor and a Lyen 18 Fet controller, i would have the same performance?
Click to expand...

Nope

That kind of performance is not easy to get, you have allot of work, thinking and times if you want to get close. Doc as built is 18 mosfets with upgrades component like low ESR capacitor for example and other goodies also you need to change every phase wire in your motor to get the maximum current and a BBQ sensor to protect this motor from overheating, really strong torque arm etc.

Don't get me wrong Lyen do an amazing job when he build a controller and is services and packaging is really great and i really appreciate him i will by a controller from him again when i will need it.

If you want to push the 5303 to the limit you will need a 36 Fets controller otherwise you will burn an 18 mosfets controller again and again. A 5303 gives you the highest top speed with this set up (18 mosfets) but a 5304 with the same set up will push you over 92 Km/h with more torque and you don't need a 36 mosfets controller. .

Good day!
Black Arrow
 
thanks for your answer,
so a 5304 would be better if i don't want to work and modify a lot?
And what kind of batteries would i have to use to push me over the 92km/h?
 
bosnimf said:
thanks for your answer,
so a 5304 would be better if i don't want to work and modify a lot?
And what kind of batteries would i have to use to push me over the 92km/h?
Click to expand...

ON a 26" wheel and a 5304, you need at least 110V to get this speed.

Doc
 
Ok, thanks
could you tell me what the best model is from crystalyte for the best topspeed if i use it with 100V?
 
What bike frame do you wish to do these speeds on exactly?

The motor/electronics is only half the package....
 
bosnimf said:
Ok, thanks
could you tell me what the best model is from crystalyte for the best topspeed if i use it with 100V?
Click to expand...
5303, sometimes a 5302 is mentioned but i've never seen that for sale somewhere.
 
I don't know yet what bike that i will be using, but i am looking for a hardtail mountainbike, i will ( hopefully next week) post a couple of bikes that i take in consideration
 
Speed is nothing unless you have torque behind it. If you consider a 5302 you have to throw nearly double the amps to get the torque you need for it to be useful. Id suggest overvolting a 5304 and if you absolutely need speed and live in a flat area then a 5303. Im running my 5303 on a near stock 12fet and its running a bit warm but its solid. As long as your amps doesnt exceed the capability of the controller then you are ok. After reviewing what Docs settings are on his controller hes running a razors edge above the controller capeability with no breathing room. I run my 5303 in the road under WOT conditions under various loads and hills pumping 4kw continuous no problem. I wouldnt push it any further.
 
icecube57 said:
Speed is nothing unless you have torque behind it. If you consider a 5302 you have to throw nearly double the amps to get the torque you need for it to be useful. Id suggest overvolting a 5304 and if you absolutely need speed and live in a flat area then a 5303. Im running my 5303 on a near stock 12fet and its running a bit warm but its solid. As long as your amps doesnt exceed the capability of the controller then you are ok. After reviewing what Docs settings are on his controller hes running a razors edge above the controller capeability with no breathing room. I run my 5303 in the road under WOT conditions under various loads and hills pumping 4kw continuous no problem. I wouldnt push it any further.
Click to expand...

Yep, a 5303 deserves a Lyen 24fet giving you breathing room to extract performance well into the "fun" category.
 
Doc , Do you have a extra set of those sweet dropouts?
I'm just starting a DH-Team build , and those dropouts would do it a lot easier.

Oh by the way, do you have a swinger 4way or a swinger 6way rear shock?
These shocks have a pesky pedal platform , wich sets a threshold you have to overcome to compress or extend it. If you pump it up , you wil not get a firmer ride , just a higher threshold before it starts moving. The best settings with a heavy hub motor , I imagine , would be minimum pressure in the SPV air chamber (75psi , I think) , the correct spring for 20-30%sag , and the high-speed compression allmost all the way in. Never go under minimum pressure in this shock , or you'll destroy it. If you have the swinger 4way , i think there's only one compression dial and you'll have to find a compromise between performance and comfort.
But at those speeds you do , a heavy hub motor needs lots of compression damping do be safe.

What these shocks really need is to get that SPV platform valve removed , and replaced with a proper shimstack.
I can highly reccomend Paul at TFtuned. http://www.tftunedshox.com/ Just tell him wich bike , the weight of the bike , you and your rear wheel + your riding style. He'll do magic to your shock. I'm sending mine to him in a couple of days.

Another thing DAAAMN your bike is fast. I'm setting mine up with a HT35 motor and a lyen 12FET modders edition. Hope my bike will be a fun ride too.

.manitu
 
manitu said:
Doc , Do you have a extra set of those sweet dropouts?
I'm just starting a DH-Team build , and those dropouts would do it a lot easier.

Oh by the way, do you have a swinger 4way or a swinger 6way rear shock?
These shocks have a pesky pedal platform , wich sets a threshold you have to overcome to compress or extend it. If you pump it up , you wil not get a firmer ride , just a higher threshold before it starts moving. The best settings with a heavy hub motor , I imagine , would be minimum pressure in the SPV air chamber (75psi , I think) , the correct spring for 20-30%sag , and the high-speed compression allmost all the way in. Never go under minimum pressure in this shock , or you'll destroy it. If you have the swinger 4way , i think there's only one compression dial and you'll have to find a compromise between performance and comfort.
But at those speeds you do , a heavy hub motor needs lots of compression damping do be safe.

What these shocks really need is to get that SPV platform valve removed , and replaced with a proper shimstack.
I can highly reccomend Paul at TFtuned. http://www.tftunedshox.com/ Just tell him wich bike , the weight of the bike , you and your rear wheel + your riding style. He'll do magic to your shock. I'm sending mine to him in a couple of days.



Another thing DAAAMN your bike is fast. I'm setting mine up with a HT35 motor and a lyen 12FET modders edition. Hope my bike will be a fun ride too.

.manitu
Click to expand...


Sorry, all the laser machined dropout are sold :( ... Having known this so growing in popularity for them i would have simply asked for double quantity!

But a normal steel plate of 1/4" on both side would do the job.

I have the swinger 6way rear shock. I have found that the best is to put pressire of the air chamber to the max. I also replaced the spring for the strongest. otherwise just with my 150 pound, it was at like 40-50% sag.. wich i really dont understand why... after i replaced it i'm in the 35-40% wich is a bit better.

At 106km/h.. that ebike feel confortable and handling is also very nice.. it compare to a motorcycle.. the angle of the fork is perfect. and the weight disstribution is perfect with the battery on the middle of the frame and a X5 hub motor on the swing arm.


Thanks for the advice for the chock!
Doc
 
You use a 700x2"75 spring with the preload collar turned all the way in?? your bike must be like 250 pounds!! That makes no sense at all..
Your SPV piston must be blown. It's one of the most common fault's on this shock. The other most common fault is damaged seals on the hi/lo speed compression dials, leaking oil from the adjusters. This is why TFTuned replaces this valved piston ,with a piston with a custom tuned shimstack . they charge 100£ for this with a service included. I'm in no way connected to tftuned , exept sending customers shock's there. But they know what they do.

You know.. with that much unsprung weight at the rear wheel , you should have troubble finding a comfy AND performance-friendly handling.
The DH-Team should be more comfy at firm settings than most bikes , because of the extremly plush starting stroke and the progressive midstroke.
But at 40% sag , you are in the mid-stroke. A rear hub motor need a firm compression tune to keep traction. The amount of damping wich is needed to keep that hub from flying , when say , hitting a hole in the road at speed trough a blind corner , will give you a firm ride. If this happens on a "plush ride" at 40-50 mph , you will get overtaken by your ass.

To bad about the dropouts.. but.. do you still have the drawings?
Wow , you think it's still a nice ride at those speeds?? You make me want a HS35 instead of the HT35 , and more amps!!
.manitu
 
Mine is a 600 spring (from memory).

I weigh 90kgs and the bike is 36kgs, and I didn't need that much preload for a firm ride.

I am bamboozled by the shear number of adjustments on this 6 way shock....most of mine are a midpoint as I didn't know what to do, so any advice is appreciated :)


The one real downside of this frame is you have to pull the shock out to adjust it...makes it difficult to tweak :(
 
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