Proper Wiring of the CA/EBrake to 116 Controller (BLP7245)?
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
GCinDC
100 MW
bought 'em. thanks!
GCinDC
100 MW
Some other questions for you Mike, since I've got you:
- What kind of switch do you use? I've been looking for a clean, simple weather-proof handlebar mountable switch, but not finding much..
- Can I attach the GND line to my switch to use the led light. It's a simple 12V switch with connections for:
+12V, LOAD, Earth. Problem is that my switch line is 84V, right? so that light would pop in a millisecond, right? I keep wondering if there's a way to use a low voltage switch to turn on the controller... Not a big deal though...
- What kind of switch do you use? I've been looking for a clean, simple weather-proof handlebar mountable switch, but not finding much..
- Can I attach the GND line to my switch to use the led light. It's a simple 12V switch with connections for:
+12V, LOAD, Earth. Problem is that my switch line is 84V, right? so that light would pop in a millisecond, right? I keep wondering if there's a way to use a low voltage switch to turn on the controller... Not a big deal though...
El_Steak
10 kW
There's a neat calculator here: http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_nospark.html
Just dial in your pack voltage, controller capacitance and how long you want to wait for precharge.
It gives you the Ohm value and number of watts dissipated.
Just dial in your pack voltage, controller capacitance and how long you want to wait for precharge.
It gives you the Ohm value and number of watts dissipated.
GCinDC
100 MW
I found that on my travels... Thanks for the link.
Odd that my huge 8 Ohm 20 Watt resistors are inadequate to the job. The ones I just bought off eBay look small. Are they just better quality? Different materials?
Re the program, I see that the shorter the time to charge, the smaller Ohm but higher Wattage required... makes some sense. but there's no way to fix the wattage with that program (say at 5 Watt), and see the times to charge for different Ohm resistors.
Resistors are interesting... Good practice for me for setting up to calibrate the shunt....
Thanks!
Odd that my huge 8 Ohm 20 Watt resistors are inadequate to the job. The ones I just bought off eBay look small. Are they just better quality? Different materials?
Re the program, I see that the shorter the time to charge, the smaller Ohm but higher Wattage required... makes some sense. but there's no way to fix the wattage with that program (say at 5 Watt), and see the times to charge for different Ohm resistors.
Resistors are interesting... Good practice for me for setting up to calibrate the shunt....
Thanks!
El_Steak
10 kW
GCinDC said:
The difference is the resistance (8 ohm vs 470 ohm). The smaller the value, the more power that goes through. The more power that go through the more heat that needs to be dissipated. Your big 20 watts resistor can dissipate 4 times more heat than the smaller 5 watts you ordered. However, it will still burn up as it will generate 59 times more heat than the smaller resistor (8 vs 470 ohm).
The 5 watts resistors you bought as suggested by Mike should be perfect for your setup. Actually, I'll order some for my own 18s3p / 24s2p setup.
Another little trick: if you don't have the right resistor value, you can parallel them. For example, 2 x 1000 ohm resistors (1K) would provide the same resistance as one 500 ohm. Using paralleled resistors allows you to use smaller resistors as the heat dissipation is shared. i.e. +- two 2 watts resistors instead of one 5 watts.
GCinDC
100 MW
thanks, that's helpful!
suddenly curious though: i recently did the R12 mod for regen, soldering in 1K resisitor in place of R12
- I used a 1k ohm 1/4 watt. That should be fine, right?
- Considering the R12 resistor was TINY -- what wattage are THOSE? the ones you need a magnifying glass to see?
Keyswitch is a good call! Time to find a moped graveyard...
I've considered the relay before, but couldn't see going for all that.. AND, my 846 controller didn't spark. AND it had a tiny on/off switch. Another thing I had trouble understanding, but I guess the CAPS and other electronics in the 116 board are the difference.
suddenly curious though: i recently did the R12 mod for regen, soldering in 1K resisitor in place of R12
- I used a 1k ohm 1/4 watt. That should be fine, right?
- Considering the R12 resistor was TINY -- what wattage are THOSE? the ones you need a magnifying glass to see?
Mike1 said:
Keyswitch is a good call! Time to find a moped graveyard...
I've considered the relay before, but couldn't see going for all that.. AND, my 846 controller didn't spark. AND it had a tiny on/off switch. Another thing I had trouble understanding, but I guess the CAPS and other electronics in the 116 board are the difference.
GCinDC
100 MW
Mike,
Thanks for the link. It arrived Friday.
I built the cable this way so that I plug in the B/R pair, and in reality I don't have to wait. Even if I try to do it really fast, all I get is a baby spark. I cut and re-crimped/soldered all 6 connections, so they're strong and clean.
Huge success. Thanks!
Thanks for the link. It arrived Friday.
I built the cable this way so that I plug in the B/R pair, and in reality I don't have to wait. Even if I try to do it really fast, all I get is a baby spark. I cut and re-crimped/soldered all 6 connections, so they're strong and clean.
Huge success. Thanks!
El_Steak
10 kW
nice. i've ordered the same resistors for my setup.
GCinDC
100 MW
My new connector has been working great: No Spark...
But I'd lost the CA, the display is too bright/flickering.
I've been living with it because I figured my connections were screwy somewhere and have never gotten around to it.
But I've figured out I CAN get a perfect CA display, but only when I connect them when my ignition switch is ON (and get a little/medium spark). :?
This never seemed repeatable before, so I didn't mention it. Now it is:
--- NO SPARK - NO CA CONNECTION ROUTINE (what I've been doing until yesterday): ---
1. Attach freshly charged battery to bike
2. Attach 8 powerpole connector
3. Attach Black/Red combo to matching powerpoles near controller
4. Wait a second and attach Red powerpole to matching connector from controller
5. Turn on ignition switch near handle.
6. Display flashes something like: >>> ON^] Ooo .><> and then I'm able to read 83V rising up to 97V as it starts fading (overbright)
(actually, I just noticed that the CA is powered after only plugging in Black/Red combo [before + discharge lead]. Voltage display rises quickly to 48V and then tapers to 50ishV)
--- NEW SPARK - WORKING CA DISPLAY ROUTINE ---
1. Attach freshly charged battery to bike
2. Turn on ignition switch near handle.
3. Attach 8 powerpole connector
4. Attach Black/Red combo to matching powerpoles near controller
5. Wait a second and attach Red powerpole to matching connector from controller (BABY SPARK)
6. CA display is clear as bell.
But I'd lost the CA, the display is too bright/flickering.
I've been living with it because I figured my connections were screwy somewhere and have never gotten around to it.
But I've figured out I CAN get a perfect CA display, but only when I connect them when my ignition switch is ON (and get a little/medium spark). :?
This never seemed repeatable before, so I didn't mention it. Now it is:
--- NO SPARK - NO CA CONNECTION ROUTINE (what I've been doing until yesterday): ---
1. Attach freshly charged battery to bike
2. Attach 8 powerpole connector
3. Attach Black/Red combo to matching powerpoles near controller
4. Wait a second and attach Red powerpole to matching connector from controller
5. Turn on ignition switch near handle.
6. Display flashes something like: >>> ON^] Ooo .><> and then I'm able to read 83V rising up to 97V as it starts fading (overbright)
(actually, I just noticed that the CA is powered after only plugging in Black/Red combo [before + discharge lead]. Voltage display rises quickly to 48V and then tapers to 50ishV)
--- NEW SPARK - WORKING CA DISPLAY ROUTINE ---
1. Attach freshly charged battery to bike
2. Turn on ignition switch near handle.
3. Attach 8 powerpole connector
4. Attach Black/Red combo to matching powerpoles near controller
5. Wait a second and attach Red powerpole to matching connector from controller (BABY SPARK)
6. CA display is clear as bell.
El_Steak
10 kW
Odd, I use the same resistor as you (bought from the same source). And it all works fine for me.
Intead of hardwiring the resistor in my harness, I made a simple in-line adapter like that:
[+]----resistor----[+]
[-]------------------[-]
I simply plug the in-line adapter between my battery and controller for 2 or 3 seconds and then remove it and plug the battery directly to the controller. No spark, no CA display problem.
I don't turn on the controller switch until the final connection is made.
Intead of hardwiring the resistor in my harness, I made a simple in-line adapter like that:
[+]----resistor----[+]
[-]------------------[-]
I simply plug the in-line adapter between my battery and controller for 2 or 3 seconds and then remove it and plug the battery directly to the controller. No spark, no CA display problem.
I don't turn on the controller switch until the final connection is made.
GCinDC
100 MW
It could very well be my switch. That's what I always suspected. So I was surprised that it worked at all.
I suspect the switch because I think when this first cropped up, I tested jumping the switch wires at the controller and the CA worked fine. Obviously that was a while ago, and may not have been consistent. It seemed only when I added 5' of wire to the switch that it got buggy...
What does this mean? Do you have three wires, two +?
One + wire has the resistor and you completely remove it after 2-3 seconds and plug the other + in? Does the black stay connected the entire time?
I suspect the switch because I think when this first cropped up, I tested jumping the switch wires at the controller and the CA worked fine. Obviously that was a while ago, and may not have been consistent. It seemed only when I added 5' of wire to the switch that it got buggy...
What does this mean? Do you have three wires, two +?
One + wire has the resistor and you completely remove it after 2-3 seconds and plug the other + in? Does the black stay connected the entire time?
El_Steak
10 kW
Humm, my ascii skills are limited. Its jus a small removable in-line adapter that is plugged between the Battery connector and the controller connector:
Controller ------[+] [+]-------resistor-------[+] [+]------Battery
Controller ------[-] [-]-----------------------[-] [-]------Battery
As you said, it might be your switch that doesn't like the high voltage.
I also have a switch in series with my controller switch (no relay / contactor yet). I use this one with a 4 foot long cable:
http://www.batteryspace.com/component-switchhandlebaronoffswitchtoggleforbike.aspx
Here's how its wired: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13638&start=165#p232378
(notive that I used a different switch then. It was not comfortable so I changed for the red one).
As opposed to a relay, the full voltage goes to the switch so do at your own risk (the full current doesn't go through it though). I added a fuse inline on the switch wire and used a fairly robust power cord from the switch to the controller. Works fine so far.
Its in series with the controller switch so both switches have to be on for the bike to run. I like that as an additional safety feature against curious people.
Controller ------[+] [+]-------resistor-------[+] [+]------Battery
Controller ------[-] [-]-----------------------[-] [-]------Battery
As you said, it might be your switch that doesn't like the high voltage.
I also have a switch in series with my controller switch (no relay / contactor yet). I use this one with a 4 foot long cable:
http://www.batteryspace.com/component-switchhandlebaronoffswitchtoggleforbike.aspx
Here's how its wired: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13638&start=165#p232378
(notive that I used a different switch then. It was not comfortable so I changed for the red one).
As opposed to a relay, the full voltage goes to the switch so do at your own risk (the full current doesn't go through it though). I added a fuse inline on the switch wire and used a fairly robust power cord from the switch to the controller. Works fine so far.
Its in series with the controller switch so both switches have to be on for the bike to run. I like that as an additional safety feature against curious people.
SilverSurfer
100 W
This switch is the same one many members use for controller or other needs, they prob. got good leads on supplier.
http://www.trailtech.net/040-LS-B.html
and
http://www.lockitt.com/AccessoriesGrips3.htm
This is what Ive come up with to switch my delta/wye hub. Same dif. Im still looking for better prices, so these are NOT necessarily the best DEAL, but the parts are good, and for my set up, its a solution. Good luck! SS
http://www.trailtech.net/040-LS-B.html
and
http://www.lockitt.com/AccessoriesGrips3.htm
This is what Ive come up with to switch my delta/wye hub. Same dif. Im still looking for better prices, so these are NOT necessarily the best DEAL, but the parts are good, and for my set up, its a solution. Good luck! SS
GCinDC
100 MW
awesome switches! thanks!!
GCinDC
100 MW
Mike1 said:
But if it were damaged, wouldn't it react to the high voltage in a consistent manor? I've been able to use it effectively at 83V, it's just varied wiring that causes it to blink... or would a faulty resistor cause it to behave the same way?
GCinDC
100 MW
just got a new CA. Justin replaced it, along w/ some others who had probs over 72V.
works like a charm.
can't believe i had so many probs for so long. what a relief to hit my on switch and see the CA!
works like a charm.
can't believe i had so many probs for so long. what a relief to hit my on switch and see the CA!
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