Question? Infineon 45A controller current adjustments

[F&P]

Hi Guys,

My Infineon 12Fet (IRFB4310) 48V / 45Amp controller only draws about 27Amp loaded right up. I am using 4 x new SLA batts at 18Ah, no problem with current delivery from these batteries.
The motor has about .4 Ohm resistance between windings and should be able to draw much more current if needed.
Keywin changed the voltage from 72V to 48V.

I added more solder to the base of the shunt and it made no difference, should I add even more??

Or do I need to re-programme the contollers current limit settings??

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

F&P

 

[Icewrench]

This thread by Knuckles might help. Good luck

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5713

 

[icecube57]

Might need to change the current limit in the programming. Or the speed is being limited and its reducing the duty cyle when it hits a certain speed.

 

[F&P]

Thanks guys,

When I was testing it, I went through different RPM ranges and no more than about 27-28Amps fully loaded.
I thought that it would be pre-programmed for 45amp as advertised??
Would it be due to the voltage set by Keywin to run at 48V instead of 72v??
Your thoughts anyone??

I might need to do the programming thing but would rather not as I am not that computer savy.

F&P

 

[tostino]

How are you measuring the amp load? It may be that your measurement tool is not reading it right because it's set up for a different shunt.

 

[nicobie]

I'd hazard to guess that Keywin just sent you his standard 48v 600w controller. The one like that I got from him was only good for 27-28a too.

I soldered the crap out of the shunt and got it to pass 45a. The only problem was at that amperage it got so hot it melted the solder. luckily for me I had it mounted on it's end so the melted solder didn't go any where it shouldn't have and fried the controller.
.

 

[tostino]

Well the 48v and 72v are pretty much the same other than the fets (which F&P put in him self), caps, and resistors (as long as they are both programmable, which in the past they weren't).

 

[F&P]

Thanks again for all your help guys.

Yes it might have been the 600W version, but Keywin sent me the IRFB4310 Fets (140A peak) and 12Fet board and I used 100V standard caps so should be fine for 45A I would have thought.
Measured with a good quality Clamp meter that has been tested to be accurate. Still only 28A peak when driving under all conditions and rpm ranges.

Keywin also emailed me back saying that I could also just add more solder to the shunt.
I will try this tonight and tell you the outcome.

Took the nearly finished solarcar for a great run last night and even at 28Amps it goes really well with good enough take off the nearly spin the rear wheel in the gravel and with 2 adults can still pull away very well. Handles the bumps really well also, I feel I could jump it with a nice landing due to suspension travel.

Top speed might be better than I thought and guess last night that we reached around 40kph, but will do more testing especially with 45Amp and even 72V down the track.
Lots and Lots of fun. The wheel would be going about 70 to 80KPH off the ground.

F&P

 

[F&P]

Hi Guys,

This was the reply from Keywin.

Hello Matt ,
the 72v/1500w controller max current is 45~50A ,but the max continual current is 22~25A ,but you can add solider on the shunts ,that better thank re-programming it ,thank you .

Regards
Keywin

I would have thought the continuous current would be higher.
Under all conditions I only get 28Amps peak, so will add a heap of solder to the shunt this weekend as he suggested and not re=program, will tell you how it goes.

F&P

 

[MrKang]

Took the nearly finished solarcar for a great run last night and even at 28Amps it goes really well with good enough take off the nearly spin the rear wheel in the gravel and with 2 adults can still pull away very well. Handles the bumps really well also, I feel I could jump it with a nice landing due to suspension travel.

Top speed might be better than I thought and guess last night that we reached around 40kph, but will do more testing especially with 45Amp and even 72V down the track.
Lots and Lots of fun. The wheel would be going about 70 to 80KPH off the ground.

F&P

i like to see some pictures of this fine creation !

 

[F&P]

To see pictures and a video, go to my early posts. Naked version in pics as I am yet to put an aerodynamic fairing on it and add 4 x 80W - 90W solar panels. hopeully get about 4 to 5Amps into the 48V battery bank.
Next test is too see how fast it will go directly of the panels with about 4 - 5Amps at 16 - 17V rated rom the 4 panels giving about 64 to 68V total - 260 to 320Watts. I will have some bypass switch to do this and not use batteries.


F&P

 

[F&P]

Put more solder on the shunt and tested it and I got 35Amp, put more solder on the shunt and got 46amps, now were cooking.
Bloody amazing! It now does a nice rear wheel spin on gravel from instant start. Nearly spins the wheel with me in it whilst turning and powering on and nearly from take off.
Has much more go up hills etc, so heres a youtube link to the solarcar doing a power slide.
Can't wait to do another good run with it at 45Amps and not 28A which I was also happy with, should really boogy.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux1gCSBocmc

F&P

 

[MrKang]

AWESOME !! don't wanna be a driver behind you when you slide like this way!
What top speed do you wanna reach ?

 

[F&P]

Top speed is nice but I need it to be efficient and be able to make it up steep hills.
Will be testing it today for top speed to see what this thing can do anyway.

Total weight with driver = about 155kg, 48V / 18Ah SLA Gel batts, 48V / 47A Controller, .4 Ohm motor, back wheel off the ground = at a guess about 60 to 70kph.
So i feel I will get about 50kph and maybe even 60kph, as it went very well at 28Amps and was around 40kph+.
If I go for 72V this will all change again.

Low driving position (will be even better once I get fairing as you can feel the wind at higher speeds).

F&P