Radwagon 4 Troubleshooting

[H2Guy]

Helping a friend troubleshoot his Radwagon 4. It is dead at the display and a new controller did not resolve the problem. I’ve confirmed that the battery is delivering full voltage to the controller as well as being present at the display connector. Have inspected all pins in the connector networks and all seems in good order.

I can’t find any pin out details to trace anything but wondering if anyone has worked through Radwagon issues like this before or if anyone has documentation they can share so I can start to trace signals through the cabling to try to get to the root of the issue.

The actual display and button assembly is the remaining piece we could swap but hate to throw money at problems without some indication it may be the issue. If someone in southwestern Ontario has a spare display or may be willing to “share“ their display for some troubleshooting that would be extremely helpful. Are there 3rd party versions of the display we could try?

Advice, insights and shared experiences are all appreciated.

 

[99t4]

During a crash my display got pulled away from the three-button switch. It pulled loose 2-3 wires from both the switch mini-PCB and the display PCB. Nothing was obvious until I opened up both, which revealed the loose wire ends from their pads. Some careful resoldering has it running again.

 

[H2Guy]

During a crash my display got pulled away from the three-button switch. It pulled loose 2-3 wires from both the switch mini-PCB and the display PCB. Nothing was obvious until I opened up both, which revealed the loose wire ends from their pads. Some careful resoldering has it running again.

Tx … There doesn’t seem to be any physical evidence of wires compromised and I’ve opened both the switch and display cases. They are both fully sealed and it would have to be some kind of cold solder joint or vibration induced failure within the units to create a similar situation that you experienced. Did you push past the epoxy seals to resolve your issue?

 

[TommyCat]

Seems like they have a very helpful website. Complete with manuals and troubleshooting tips…

RadWagon 4 (2020) essential resources


Regards,
T.C.

 

[H2Guy]

Seems like they have a very helpful website. Complete with manuals and troubleshooting tips…

RadWagon 4 (2020) essential resources


Regards,
T.C.

Tx TommyCat for the link. Troubleshooting guide limited to basic battery tests and cable connection confirmation. I’d already done those steps to no avail … they do however offer tech support via chat during PST business hours so I’ll definitely engage them that way and see what we can resolve.

Cheers

 

[stancecoke]

This seems to be a branded Kingmeter SW900 (or SW-LCD) Display.

https://aliexpress.com/item/1005004319523484.html

The pinout is well known, you can simply check, if the battery+ voltage is OK. To switch on the controller, the display puts battery+ to the blue wire.

regards
stancecoke

 

[99t4]

Did you push past the epoxy seals to resolve your issue?

Mine were not conformal coated.

 

[H2Guy]

Mine were not conformal coated.

I haven’t pressed that button yet … am going to pick up a compatible sw900 unit and if it works great, if not I’ll use it on a future build. If it does work then I’ll know that it’s this unit and I’ll start chipping away at the coating to see if I can revive the original unit.

Tx everyone … this community continues to deliver!

 

[rick_p]

Hotwire (jumper wire) it without a display as @stancecoke explained. You just need to figure out which holes are battery voltage and the blue wire. Some companies have their displays customized by the manufacturer, so a generic SW900 may or may not be compatible. Here is a picture of my bike with a jumper wire. NOTE, do not assume your battery voltage and blue wire pinholes are where mine are!