Recommended lacing pattern for hub motors?

[lynchy]

Gents,

what is the norm for lacing a hub motor into a rim? For a very big motor you'd go for a 2 cross, but how about a smaller motor with spoke diameter of 100-130mm in a 26" rim for both front and rear.

Thanks
Lynchy

 

[Drunkskunk]

100mm hub I might try a tripple cross. depends on the rim. certianly a double would work.

 

[lynchy]

Thanks drunkskunk. The 3 cross did work ok on a 108 spoke radius hub but I think it's best to stick with 2 cross.

 

[Russell]

I've laced up a Bafang, a GM MIni and a 9C, all into 700C rims, and pretty much the largest ERD 700C rims to boot at 612mm and found the Mini with a hole pitch of 120mm worked well at 2X, the slightly larger diameter Bafang with a pitch of 130mm could be laced 2X or 1X, though there were some canted nipples at 2X, and of course the large 9C had to use 1X. I've seen some motors in the 160mm pitch size laced 2X and one even 3X but the nipple angles can get quite severe. I ran across these nipples which might help in situations such as that but haven't tried them myself.

http://www.wheelbuilder.com/store/sapim-brass-polyax-nipples.html

Other people have re-drilled rim holes at an angle or gotten special rims to get the nipples to line up with the spokes but for most it seems a 1X pattern is the norm. I used to worry about using a 1X pattern on a bike since I've always had 3X wheels but at least for motors in the front wheel, which is all I've used, 1X appears to work well.

-R

 

[lynchy]

Thanks Russell. I'll go with the 2 cross next time but it's really difficult to find the 228mm spokes I need. I'm now in the middle of lacing a different version of the front Ananda or "Cute" motor as it's known around these parts. This 1 can accept a disk brake and it's a 24V motor. Previously used a 36V non disk motor. Still using the 3 cross for now, just because I managed to get some 245mm spokes.

This time I managed to get the spokes correct around the valve hole. Got it wrong again before I worked out what I was doing wrong and then had to pull the whole thing apart again... Well at least when you learn something the hard way, it tends to stick.

I'm going to have a go at cutting some spokes to length and threading them. Just need to buy the right size dye (is that the right spelling? :? ) So tired of going to every bike shop around trying to find the right spokes.

 

[Drunkskunk]

I'm going to have a go at cutting some spokes to length and threading them. Just need to buy the right size dye (is that the right spelling? :? ) So tired of going to every bike shop around trying to find the right spokes.

Don't. And I speak from experiance. Cut threads on spokes are near useless.
The won't grip the nipple right and are almost 4 times weaker than rolled threads.
Cut threads remove material from the shaft, making the shaft thinner at the point of the thread. rolled threads compress steel into the shaft, making the steel stronger, and also push the steel up into ridges of the threads, making the thread's wider than the shaft, so they seat and grip into the nipples better.

Whats needed is a thread roller like a Phil Wood. Unfortunatly, they run $3000 used, But most reputable bikeshops will have one.
I know around Dallas the cost of 40 raw spokes, or 40 spokes cut to leingth and threaded propperly is the same. about $40.

If you are looking on line, Justin or Zev from Ebikes.ca can cut spokes, and they roll the threads. IRRC, it was $40 for the 40 spokes I had made up in black.

 

[lynchy]

Thanks Drunkskunk for the heads up on the spokes. You've saved me a load of time, hassle and a little money. Much appreciated :wink:

I'm just gonna have to find a supplier. Unfortunately Dallas is a long way from Shanghai. Will try to find 1 closer to home. It shouldn't be so difficult, but things are never straighforward round these ways.......

 

[docnjoj]

At the risk of repetition try these guys for spokes:

http://www.danscomp.com/products.php?cat=PARTS&show=Spokes

otherDoc