So I just got a used Burley Canto (Burley Canto and Taiko Recumbent Bikes - Bicycle Man) for a fairly good price, and I have this bike->trike conversion, been using it for a few years on an upright trike, 7 speed version. I'm going to be putting it on the Canto, and up until now been thinking I'll do a TSDZ2B at the cranks, go OSF on it.
However... I want to build a tallish locking storage box on the back, so considering ways I can push the 'dropouts' back 8-12". Getting a few welded tubes that'll have a tab that goes over the top of the current downtubes to the dropouts, a bolt that goes through the dropouts & the extension to hold it all in place and correct width, and then the trike conversion with appropriate connection/holes/etc at the back.
That got me thinking...I have an Ezee front hub motor already, what if I were to use it, with a sprocket on the disc brake mount, and a jackshaft, to take both the motor and the pedals, and then a 3rd sprocket going back to the rear 7-speed/derailleur. I'll just need to basically make dropout mount at the right spot, get something like these with perhaps some of these spacers?
This would save me a bunch by not having to buy the new mid-motor, and keep me from having to buy an entirely new, longer, chain and make sure it's tensioned up, etc, etc with the trike conversion even further back. Some 3/4" mini-bike jackshaft parts & bearings. I'll just need to find some collars that can take bicycle sprockets. This one might work, seems like it might have the right bolt pattern.
Or maybe a 15mm shaft with this threaded freewheel adapter would be better, and Grainger has a 15mm 303 stainless keyed rotary shaft which I suspect would work with that keying. I've emailed Utah Trikes about it.
As for the extenders, I'm figuring some 3/4" square steel tube as a base, with an additional shaft at a shallow angle going part way up the downtube to provide additional strength/anti-torque.
So...should I just go for the, theoretically, simpler TSDZ2B and put together a new chain that'll be long enough? Or would using the front-hub motor be sufficiently straightforward to add as a mid/jackshaft motor?
Here's my thoughts:
Using TSDZ2B:
Advantages:
* Torque/pedal sensor for easy PAS
* All integrated, just need to add power (already have battery) and the OSF is supposed to make it pretty great
Disadvantages:
* Either with or without extenders, looong chain to put that power through
* It's more obvious with the motor sitting up front at the cranks
* Potentially slightly higher up front cost (electrifybike.com is ~$500, but I can be sure of all parts and everything working together)
* Would turn the 3 sproket front gears into a single gear (not a big deal IMO for me)
* Might need to buy and place one or two more idlers
Ezee and Jackshaft
Advantages:
* Already have the motor & controller
* Already have CAv3
* It'll be somewhat less obvious, since it'll be behind the seat/storage box area
* Keep the front 3 sprokets at the crank
Disadvantages:
* More mechanical parts to buy, ensure I have the right ones, all compatible, etc
* PAS can't be as smooth unless I buy a torque sensor and put it in the BB, at best it'll be cadence sensor
* During build of the extension arms need to make sure things like up pretty closely
* Lots more design time needed to make sure it'll all line up well
* Might save some money, but with the extra parts and fabrication and materials cost, no guarantee, probably lucky if I "break even" with a good TSDZ2B kit
So while in _theory_ a jackshaft _might_ save me a bit of money, maybe, but I suspect it'd probably be about the same, maybe even a bit more. Although some of the cost for the extension arms (if I do end up doing them) will happen regardless, even without doing a jackshaft.
So, what do ya'll thing? Am I crazy and insane and should or shouldn't go for the Ezee and jackshaft? Am I overthinking putting the power through that long of a chain actually matters that much?
I'm not going to run it at very high power levels, at most 48v@14-16a. With the OSF I'll probably set it to allow the takeoff of 16a, and steady-state of 8a since I've read the controller can run somewhat hot and burn out if used at peak (e.g. major hill climbing) for too long. Which I don't have too many crazy hills where I'm at, and of course I can pedal a fair bit to add to it.
However... I want to build a tallish locking storage box on the back, so considering ways I can push the 'dropouts' back 8-12". Getting a few welded tubes that'll have a tab that goes over the top of the current downtubes to the dropouts, a bolt that goes through the dropouts & the extension to hold it all in place and correct width, and then the trike conversion with appropriate connection/holes/etc at the back.
That got me thinking...I have an Ezee front hub motor already, what if I were to use it, with a sprocket on the disc brake mount, and a jackshaft, to take both the motor and the pedals, and then a 3rd sprocket going back to the rear 7-speed/derailleur. I'll just need to basically make dropout mount at the right spot, get something like these with perhaps some of these spacers?
This would save me a bunch by not having to buy the new mid-motor, and keep me from having to buy an entirely new, longer, chain and make sure it's tensioned up, etc, etc with the trike conversion even further back. Some 3/4" mini-bike jackshaft parts & bearings. I'll just need to find some collars that can take bicycle sprockets. This one might work, seems like it might have the right bolt pattern.
Or maybe a 15mm shaft with this threaded freewheel adapter would be better, and Grainger has a 15mm 303 stainless keyed rotary shaft which I suspect would work with that keying. I've emailed Utah Trikes about it.
As for the extenders, I'm figuring some 3/4" square steel tube as a base, with an additional shaft at a shallow angle going part way up the downtube to provide additional strength/anti-torque.
So...should I just go for the, theoretically, simpler TSDZ2B and put together a new chain that'll be long enough? Or would using the front-hub motor be sufficiently straightforward to add as a mid/jackshaft motor?
Here's my thoughts:
Using TSDZ2B:
Advantages:
* Torque/pedal sensor for easy PAS
* All integrated, just need to add power (already have battery) and the OSF is supposed to make it pretty great
Disadvantages:
* Either with or without extenders, looong chain to put that power through
* It's more obvious with the motor sitting up front at the cranks
* Potentially slightly higher up front cost (electrifybike.com is ~$500, but I can be sure of all parts and everything working together)
* Would turn the 3 sproket front gears into a single gear (not a big deal IMO for me)
* Might need to buy and place one or two more idlers
Ezee and Jackshaft
Advantages:
* Already have the motor & controller
* Already have CAv3
* It'll be somewhat less obvious, since it'll be behind the seat/storage box area
* Keep the front 3 sprokets at the crank
Disadvantages:
* More mechanical parts to buy, ensure I have the right ones, all compatible, etc
* PAS can't be as smooth unless I buy a torque sensor and put it in the BB, at best it'll be cadence sensor
* During build of the extension arms need to make sure things like up pretty closely
* Lots more design time needed to make sure it'll all line up well
* Might save some money, but with the extra parts and fabrication and materials cost, no guarantee, probably lucky if I "break even" with a good TSDZ2B kit
So while in _theory_ a jackshaft _might_ save me a bit of money, maybe, but I suspect it'd probably be about the same, maybe even a bit more. Although some of the cost for the extension arms (if I do end up doing them) will happen regardless, even without doing a jackshaft.
So, what do ya'll thing? Am I crazy and insane and should or shouldn't go for the Ezee and jackshaft? Am I overthinking putting the power through that long of a chain actually matters that much?
I'm not going to run it at very high power levels, at most 48v@14-16a. With the OSF I'll probably set it to allow the takeoff of 16a, and steady-state of 8a since I've read the controller can run somewhat hot and burn out if used at peak (e.g. major hill climbing) for too long. Which I don't have too many crazy hills where I'm at, and of course I can pedal a fair bit to add to it.
