Replacement controller and display/controls

[Smilgy]

Hi,

I bought a broken second hand EBike (Wayscral Easyway E1, or a very similar (if not the same) is a Wayscral Basy 315), which I am in the process of repairing. I suspect the problem with the bike is a faulty display/control, as when I opened it up, there was quite a bit of corrosion. After some cleaning with IPA, the control panel lights up, however the bike still does not function.

I suspect its likely impossible to find an identical replacement for the controls, so I think the best approach would be to replace the controller and add a matching display/controls.

The rear hub motor is a 26in, 250W 24V sensorless motor. There is no hand throttle, only PAS. I wouldn't be looking for anything fancy, just to get the bike going again and pass on to someone to use.

The current controller has the following inputs/outputs:

• Battery input
• Output to motor (3 wires)
• Display control input (4 wires, VCC, GND, and 2 others)
• PAS input (VCC, GND & white)
• Brake lever input (only 1 input, but the two brake levers are connected to each other, VCC, GND & green)

I've yet to test the battery, however will in the coming days. I've a power meter that I sometimes use in series with some lightbulbs in series and parralel to discharge the battery, so can get a decent idea of the state of health of the battery running it down till the BMS shuts off. I'll post the results when this is done.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

 

[docw009]

I believe you need a sensorless 24V controller like this one. I've bought a lot of parts from this vendor.

Controller

24V/36V 250W 15A Brushless DC Square Wave Controller ebike Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Controller with right output

24V/36V 250W 15A Brushless DC Square Wave Controller ebike Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Controller with right output

www.pswpower.com

Displays - the better LCD models have some adjustments for power output, if you need to reduce it.

KT-LED890/KT-LCD3/KT-LCD4/KT-LCD5//KT-LCD8S/KT-LCD8H Meter for KT-Series Controlers

KT-LED890/KT-LCD3/KT-LCD4/KT-LCD5//KT-LCD8S/KT-LCD8H Meter for KT-Series Controlers

www.pswpower.com

 

[Smilgy]

Hmm, I think you're right, that controller appears to be the correct one, to incorporate the 3 wire brake levers. Thanks, I will have a look!

 

[Smilgy]

Would the above need a speed sensor or would it be able to work without one? I dont believe my original bike has one. In my case, it would be the PAS sensor only,

 

[E-HP]

Would the above need a speed sensor or would it be able to work without one? I dont believe my original bike has one. In my case, it would be the PAS sensor only,

If you need a speed readout. Speed is determined either by the motor hall sensor pulses, or by a dedicated speed sensor. You motor doesn’t have motor hall sensors. Alternatively you could use a speedo made for bicycles, or gps.

 

[Smilgy]

Thanks! No, I would be happy without a speed readout, as long as the controller/display combo works without any speed sensing, either via motor hall sensors or an external speed sensor.

 

[docw009]

The controller wiring is pretty busy. Lots of extra stuff that I remove, like lights, cruise, EABS. There is a three pin connector for a speed sensor.

A KT display can be set to work w/o a speed sensor, but then it only displays speed when the motor is running. When coasting, there is no speed as the motor doesn't spin. It will throw the odometer off. Order the sensor if you buy a controller/display. It's only $3.

If you don't need a display, and one PAS setting is sufficient, you can just use the KT controller by itself. It comes (or should come) with a jumper to bypass the display. The single PAS setting may be too slow or too fast. It depends on you. Throttle is also enabled, Then a bike computer will give you speed/odometer.

 

[Smilgy]

I took a while to order these. Controller and display arrived a few days ago and after some troubleshooting, I was able to make it work. Turns out, there was an additional problem. There was a connector in the motor cable for easy disconnection if a tube/tyre needed replacing. This connector had melted/failed and as a result with the new controller, the bike wouldnt function. After fixing this issue, the new controller was able to spin up the motor while under test. Further testing is needed on the road, etc but I think its okay.

One question - what should the P1 setting be? Motor model is DGW07. From googling this, it can either come in 16 or 20 magnet version, and gearing could be 4.2 or 4.3. should P1 then be 67/68 (4.2x16) or 84 (4.2x20)? Both options seem to work, however as I mentioned, I haven't tried this on the road yet, as the bike needs full reassembly (still waiting on some SM connectors to tidy everything up).

For reference - I only have the PAS sensor and brake sensors - no hall or speed sensors.

 

[E-HP]

Not sure what you ended up ordering, but those setting related to poles and magnets shouldn’t matter if you are running sensorless.

 

[Smilgy]

Yep, just the three wires from the motor, no hall/speed sensors. That's good to know! Does the only other parameter that matter then is current control and PAS sensor type?

 

[E-HP]

Yep, just the three wires from the motor, no hall/speed sensors. That's good to know! Does the only other parameter that matter then is current control and PAS sensor type?

Likely. Knowing the display and controller model would help to be sure, but you're probably good just setting those parameters.

 

[Smilgy]

Sorry, should have said! I have the controller in the second post, and a KT-LCD4.