rewinding hub motors.

[ejonesss]

is there anyone who rewinds hub motors out there and how much for their services and parts?

i have a bionx wheel from a 42 volt kit i think the battery was originally a 10s lipo type battery and i removed the proprietary controller board and wired new wires to use with a sensorless controller and i found the motor is very week i think for it to be street legal in the us and canada it is only 200 watts

it would be nice to have it rewound to work on 48 volt system and i was wondering if there is anyone who rewinds hub motors and how much it would cost.

to help save on shipping i could remove the spokes and rim and maybe even the wire wound core and send the core in for rewinding if the entire wheel is not needed if the motor is needed for testing then i will just remove the spokes and rim and send in the bare motor.

 

[flat tire]

You need a bigger motor. Rewinding that one won't help you. You can run it on a higher voltage without any mods.

 

[ejonesss]

You need a bigger motor. Rewinding that one won't help you. You can run it on a higher voltage without any mods.

i was thinking it could be wound with thicker wire to make the magnetic fields stronger

unless the limits are also in the strength of the permanent magnets too.

 

[flat tire]

Thicker wire will give you fewer turns which will make your wheel turn faster and with less torque. Not what you want. Anyway, the problem here isn't the winding...

The limit here is the physical size of your motor which limits its ability to take heat from more amps, which is what will make your motor turn harder. You need a bigger motor than 250w if you want significantly more power. 1kw size at least. But before any of that you need a good controller. The controller you have right now is probably really weak. A good controller will make your motor turn hard but will also blow it pretty fast if you're not careful since the 250w motor can't take much heat.

 

[Drunkskunk]

The amount of power the motor is capable of making has nothing to do with the gauge of the wire, but rather the total mass of copper used in the motor. there is only just so much copper you can get in the slots, and the Bionix is pretty close to full.

The limitation of power that motor has is actually caused by the controller. they are far under powered compared to their potential, but that is done for many reasons, one being reliability, another being legal limits. With the right controller, you might be able to get short bursts of more than 5000 watts, but you would quickly find another limitation: the inability to of the motor to shed heat before melting.

As for having it rewound, forget it. Hand winding a BLDC is a pain in the arse, and will cost you well north of $500.

 

[e-beach]

+1 on a controller upgrade. Battery upgrade as well.

Step 1: what is the max amps of your existing controller?

Why did you use a sensor-less controller?

 

[ejonesss]

i am using the lyen sensorless i did not feel like taking the motor apart again to install halls then relacing the wheel.

 

[flat tire]

Sensorless controllers suck from a dead stop. Really, you need an entirely new setup if you want anything decent to happen. I'm pretty happy with the setup in my sig, it will take 4-5KW briefly, cruise around 40 @ 1500w and power wheelie from a dead stop with instant torque.

 

[e-beach]

i am using the lyen sensorless i did not feel like taking the motor apart again to install halls then relacing the wheel.

Taking the motor apart again? What did you take it apart for last time.

Are you sure you have your Lyen controller hooked up right?

 

[markz]

Hello I am searching for the way motors are rewound and stumbled upon this.
If anyone can help me, I have been spending the last few hours on this.
My Crystalyte 408 is burnt and want to rewind it myself. I got so many questions I should start my own thread.
If I want lets say 4 turns, do I wrap 4 turns around each slot, or is it 4 turns of each of the 3 phases, ending up with 12 in each slot.



This statement below is absolutely false. No matter the winding, the motor will have the same torque.

Thicker wire will give you fewer turns which will make your wheel turn faster and with less torque.

 

[MadRhino]

Hello I am searching for the way motors are rewound and stumbled upon this.
If anyone can help me, I have been spending the last few hours on this.
My Crystalyte 408 is burnt and want to rewind it myself. I got so many questions I should start my own thread.
If I want lets say 4 turns, do I wrap 4 turns around each slot, or is it 4 turns of each of the 3 phases, ending up with 12 in each slot.



This statement below is absolutely false. No matter the winding, the motor will have the same torque.

Thicker wire will give you fewer turns which will make your wheel turn faster and with less torque.

4 turns on a slot, then you skip 2 slots, 4 turns on the next... The number of times you will do those 4 turns to fill the slots, is the 2nd winding number eg.: 4 X 10 means each slot has 10 times 4 turns, 10 X 4 means each slot has 4 times 10 turns.

The statement was double false, for most of the time a faster motor is capable of more torque (before frying ) simply because thicker wire is capable of more watts before melting.

 

[markz]

OK Thanks, that makes more sense.

I found this
hubmotors are always Star(WYE) terminated

Oh yeah I completely understand that, thats why I love higher KV/lower tooth count motors in a small diameter wheel. John in CR sold me on that one back in the MYTH thread.

So I remember my MXUS 3KW V2 in 4T was something like 4x16.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

So can anyone here tell me how to strip out and rewind the old Crystalyte X5304 motor?

Mine is shorted at the stator.

I don't want to scrap it.

Thanks.

 

[MadRhino]

The winding job is the same with any DD hub motor, only the amount of copper will change. There are vids on youtube stowing the process.
Not worth it IMO. I mean, hub motors are cheap, for the time and expanses required to rewind one yourself.

 

[Balmorhea]

So can anyone here tell me how to strip out and rewind the old Crystalyte X5304 motor?

Mine is shorted at the stator.

I don't want to scrap it.

That was a mighty fine motor in its day, but now it’s outdone in pretty much every regard by the 6T Leaf 1500W, at two-thirds the weight.

I have an old badass X5305 on one of my bikes, but I wouldn’t hesitate a moment to replace it with a 7T Leaf if it should fail.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Thanks guys. Lockdown being Lockdown I don't find hub motors so cheap. $400+

Over here a 4080 in a 20" rim sets you back £400stg.

Seems a shame to call it quits. It literally never once ran in anger.