Looking for hub motor for regen purposes

If you have the hub it will add ten mph to your uphill speed no reason not to use both for climbing.
Whatever power you were gonna squander in the mid drive, you can simply add to the hub and get the same job done lighter, cheaper, more efficiently.
 
I dont think i can do backpedal regen. The bbshd has a freewheels so pedaling backwards doesn't move the chainring. Closest thing i can think of is some kind of disc connected to the cranks with a hall sensor.

FWIW, You just the cranks to spin backwards:


"Back pedaling on a PAS sensor: Quadrature based PAS encoders have the ability to tell when the cranks are being spun backwards. This is implemented in the Version 3.2 Cycle Analyst firmware."


The above link does say that most PAS sensor sold by bikes.ca are quadrature based.

"Finally, most of the PAS sensors offered by Grin use a 2 wire quadrature signal for the cadence sensing, with two signals that toggle up and down out of phase with each other. Pedal direction is then determined by the order sequence of the two pulses. This method is also used in a majority of the bottom bracket sensors. It offers the most versatility for distinguishing forwards and reverse rotation, allowing installation on either side of the bike frame, and allowing backwards pedaling to have a control function (such as activating regen). However, it does require 4 wires in total, 2 signal wires along with Power and Gnd."
 
FWIW, You just the cranks to spin backwards:


"Back pedaling on a PAS sensor: Quadrature based PAS encoders have the ability to tell when the cranks are being spun backwards. This is implemented in the Version 3.2 Cycle Analyst firmware."


The above link does say that most PAS sensor sold by bikes.ca are quadrature based.

"Finally, most of the PAS sensors offered by Grin use a 2 wire quadrature signal for the cadence sensing, with two signals that toggle up and down out of phase with each other. Pedal direction is then determined by the order sequence of the two pulses. This method is also used in a majority of the bottom bracket sensors. It offers the most versatility for distinguishing forwards and reverse rotation, allowing installation on either side of the bike frame, and allowing backwards pedaling to have a control function (such as activating regen). However, it does require 4 wires in total, 2 signal wires along with Power and Gnd."
interesting. ill have to look into that.
 
I have not done regen braking but have watched some YouTube video of a guy using the vesc controller, he just had it activate regen as soon as he let off the throttle I think and would use the app to adjust how much he wanted.
This is actually super easy to do, I built a lawn mower chassis vesc powered go-kart with/for my son, and it uses a single full twist throttle, you just set up your throttle app to have throttle and regen breaking on the same input, then set your throttle voltage center point wherever works best for modulating regen and throttle, works a treat.
 
Whatever power you were gonna squander in the mid drive, you can simply add to the hub and get the same job done lighter, cheaper, more efficiently.
You take your 3000 watt hub and a 500 lb load up a 10 % 5 mile hill and watch it melt. While my dual motors can still be touched without burning you.
 
interesting. ill have to look into that.
there's also opensource firmware for the bbshd, so if you were into hacking w/firmware it'd be easily done.
i intend to build a trike, for which i will eventually be looking at adding support for bbs to control the controllers
of hub motor(s) too, but before that during this winter i'm going to have a go at making my own diy display.

edit: fwiw., the opensource firmware is already keeping track whether pedaling backwards or not.
 
Potato11,

What size is the chainring on your BBSHD?

Also do you know what the Kv is on the CSC DD hub motor you have? Is that a 1000w hub motor?
 
You take your 3000 watt hub and a 500 lb load up a 10 % 5 mile hill and watch it melt. While my dual motors can still be touched without burning you.

When you say 3000 watt hub what do you mean by that?

When I think "3000 watt hub" the first one to come to mind is the MXUS 3000 watt turbo (a hub with over 88% peak efficiency according to ebikes.ca dyno). When used in 5T winding form and a 72v 80 amp controller it will make 2955 motor watts with a 26" wheel. At peak power it is 59.9% efficient. Max unloaded speed is 69.6 kmh (43.3mph).


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motor is hooked up and operating. After digging around, I found that grin makes bidirectional throttles. I figure I can wire it to both the bbshd and one of the vesc adc channels. If I program the vesc to take regen from 0-1v then that gives proportional regen and throttle on a single throttle. Hub throttle will be with a left hand half twist throttle.
 
Hub acquired. The ride feel is a lot different. The casette has this gap so 1st gear is pretty far from the hub body. Really snug fit but there is just enough space for me to shift through all 8 gears and mount brake calipers. Riding without hub power and it feels harder to turn with that big spinning mass at the back. Or maybe that's just because I've been riding my 20" folding bike for the last 3 weeks. I'll mount the vesc in the upcoming days and see how it goes. Also need to fab torque arms
Hi Potato011,
I was wondering about the pic where you show a chain roller thing that you have attached to the chainstay. Is this to keep the chain from rubbing on the motor or the tire? Either way, how is it working out for you? Does the bike still shift through the gears correctly? Does the metal from the chain wear as it turns against that metal roller? Also, where did you get the roller from?
 
Hi Potato011,
I was wondering about the pic where you show a chain roller thing that you have attached to the chainstay. Is this to keep the chain from rubbing on the motor or the tire? Either way, how is it working out for you? Does the bike still shift through the gears correctly? Does the metal from the chain wear as it turns against that metal roller? Also, where did you get the roller from?
The roller is to raise my ground clearance when I'm offroading. It keeps the chain from hitting rocks when ascending and descending ledges. I know the kickstand is a lot lower than the chain - thats gonna get replaced soon. The roller is also an experiment to see if I can make some kind of chain self lubrication system with a roller made of sponge and a lub resevoir. I've had it for about 6 months with no issues shifting. The roller is about half a centimeter from the edge of the wheel and I haven't had any rubbing.
 
I will also give an update on what's been going on with the wheel. Long story short. the CSC motor I was sold had a defect during assembly. There was this weird noise so I cracked the case open and found a piece of loose metal grinding against the coils. I returned the wheel (lost 200 on shipping) but couldn't find anyone else who would make a motor wheel with a mtx 39 26" 36h. I also couldn't find anyone else who sold hub motors with a casette. In the end I took the L and spent about 750 on a gmac wheel build with the 26j31 rim. Had I know what would happen, I'd order the gmac from the start. Lesson learned but the project is back on track. Wheel should arrive in a week or two.
 
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I will also give an update on what's been going on with the roller. Long story short. the CSC motor I was sold had a defect during assembly. There was this weird noise so I cracked the case open and found a piece of loose metal grinding against the coils. I returned the wheel (lost 200 on shipping) but couldn't find anyone else who would make a motor wheel with a mtx 39 26" 36h. I also couldn't find anyone else who sold hub motors with a casette. In the end I took the L and spent about 750 on a gmac wheel build with the 26j31 rim. Had I know what would happen, I'd order the gmac from the start. Lesson learned but the project is back on track. Wheel should arrive in a week or two.
That's unlucky with the CSC motor I have 2 1500 watt kits and have been surprised by how well they work with the controller that comes with them.
 
That's unlucky with the CSC motor I have 2 1500 watt kits and have been surprised by how well they work with the controller that comes with them.
it did look like a robust wheel. But i'm kinda glad it had the defect since it forced me to return it. the way it's built, the disk rotor mount is really offset from wheel center and there was less than a milimeter of clearance between the rotor and the brake caliper adapter. No rubbing but kinda sketchy. This may have been an issue with how the factory laced the wheel but the rim was also offset to the left by about a 1.5 cm. If grin's specs r right, Their hub is only 137mm wide so should give me plenty of space to play around with washers.
 
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