Ruined my dropouts. Want a clamping torque arm

[electr0n]

Does anyone offer a ready made clamping torque arm solution? I've managed to spread my rear dropouts on my cheap steel framed bike. I've also managed to round the axle a bit.

I have the latest iteration of rear torque arms from ebikes.ca but they have a bit of play in them on my axle and I want something that won't budge since I'm running 5kw+ bursts with regen. Unfortunately I have neither the tools nor the skills to fabricate my own torque arm.

I've already ordered a set of Dr Bass ultimate torque arms so we'll see how that goes, maybe it'll be enough. I've lost some confidence in my ability to secure the rear wheel properly. By the way since my dropouts are steel is there any chance I could try to smash them with a hammer to close the dropouts again or maybe put them in a vise and squeeze them shut again? I'm not mechanically inclined at all.

 

[spinningmagnets]

Please post pics of the stock drop-outs on this bike.

The Dogman clamping torque arm is my favorite, easy to make it "prettier" with a just a little effort:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26444

 

[neptronix]

the doctorbass torque arms should hold. you can turn those into clamping torque arms actually if you just drill a hole through the ends.

 

[electr0n]

I like dogmans clamping dropouts as well. This looks like something I might be able to fabricate with just a hand drill and an angle grinder. I'd probably need to take dr bass's torque arms to a shop to have them drilled. Apparently they're made out of some very hard metal and drilling something that accurate would require a drill press but that is another good option. I think gcindc has experience with that.

I've removed the wheel and torque arms from the frame so no pictures. There was likely a better way to secure the torque arms to my frame than how I had them but still the weakest link in those torque arms from ebikes.ca have got to be the hose clamp connections. I did them up pretty darn tight. They did at least prevent my phase and hall wires from being cut.

 

[electr0n]

I found Brentis implemented a dogman style torque arm in a horizontal position in his thread here: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36672&start=45

dogman has his torque arms in the vertical position. Any thoughts as to which direction would be stronger or more effective?

I'd like to add a rear rack to my full suspension bike similar to the one below using an extended length of angle iron from the dropout. Could possibly use it as a passenger seat.

 

[dogman dan]

I have to admit to having a liking for ugly but it works.

Orientation of the pinch dropouts won't matter. I just ran mine the same as the dropout, which wasn't rounded out yet.

If you want to put a rack on the FS bike, you have to do a seatpost rack, or have the rack entirely supported by the rear swingarm.

 

[electr0n]

Ugly is ok with me. Like you've said it makes the bike less attractive to potential thieves. This also solves stripped axle threads which I think I have as well. I was going to attach the rack entirely to the rear swing arm but maybe a rear rack brace like yours would work as well. Anyhow thanks for the ideas. Going to give this a try.

 

[NeilP]

If you like ugly, how about these

Slightly neater. these have done about 1300 miles now with that new beefy axle

Some for a scooter

 

[John in CR]

You said you had no tools, but talk about drill and angle grinder. With that you can make perfect clamping dropouts. Can you find a metal working shop? They will have scraps perfect for the job. You need enough material for 2 pieces only 2"x1.5" by at least .5" thick since you already rounded the axle. Nice and thick also makes a strong 5/8ths (8mm) clamping bolt possible. If your existing dropout plates have enough surface area to be able to drill multiple holes to attach a multi-piece rig like Dogman's, then you can go the no-weld route, but none of my bikes ever allowed it.

Then shape and fit your pieces with the angle grinder, and bring it back to the same shop to weld them on quick and easy.

 

[spinningmagnets]

dogman has his torque arms in the vertical position

That orientation allowed for a "drip loop" (look at the pic again, you will see it), so rain and puddle-splashes will run down and away from the motor, instead of running into the motor.

 

[John in CR]

If your current dropouts are near horizontal, they'll typically be angled slightly downward to the rear, which I find works as well or better for the drip loop entering from down and rear. Don't be shy about drip loops, because that extra wire makes a tire change possible without messing with your wiring much, especially if you use something removable like velco for the ties to the chain stay near the axle.

Motors that are properly assembled will have the halls in the top half of the motor when the wire exit is pointed down or to the rear. In the event water gets in, that makes the halls more likely to survive.

 

[NeilP]

Motors that are properly assembled will have the halls in the top half of the motor when the wire exit is pointed down or to the rear. In the event water gets in, that makes the halls more likely to survive.

Damn you John..why did you not point out that obvious fact BEFORE I put my new axle back in the stator!!

 

[John in CR]

Motors that are properly assembled will have the halls in the top half of the motor when the wire exit is pointed down or to the rear. In the event water gets in, that makes the halls more likely to survive.

Damn you John..why did you not point out that obvious fact BEFORE I put my new axle back in the stator!!

Sorry, I almost never get caught in the rain and I've never had a blown hall, so I only thought to point it out because dropout direction was mentioned. If your halls ended up down with your new axle, just rotate it 180°.

 

[NeilP]

Nah, and then cable entry would be facing upwards. not been an issue in 7012 miles...but it is a good point

 

[NeilP]

Sorry, I almost never get caught in the rain.

you lucky B****ard...permanently wet over here in the winter

 

[electr0n]

How hard is it to drill through angle iron with a hand drill? What kind of bit should I use? Any tips? What about dc arc welding with my batteries and a welding rod, strong enough? Will I need to mount the frame / angle iron in a vise to avoid killing myself while drilling? I'm going to take a trip to the hardware store this weekend and pick up a couple drill bits and some angle iron if I can't scavenge any.

 

[NeilP]

A hand drill. ! yikes do-able but a pain. At least get yourself, or borrow, an electric or a battery powered one.

As for welding with your batteries. Forget it. Unless you want to destroy the packs, and even then it probably would not work reliably.

 

[dogman dan]

At worst, go rent a power drill for the day. You don't need a drill press, just a hand held power drill.

You should be able to use 1/4 inch bits, and just one ought to last through drilling the holes. Typically angle iron is fairly soft. Get angle that is at least 1/4 inch thick.

A vise grip pliers can be a big help if you need to hold down a small peice to do the drilling.

Use good bolts. Grade 8 bolts are hard and won't bend or snap on you in a small 1/4 inch size. Don't use cheap soft bolts. Locknuts, or use two nuts to lock it on.

 

[electr0n]

It is electric :lol: No way I'd try a non power tool for drilling steel.

Thanks for that info dogman. I was thinking I'd need larger diameter bolts. Drilling smaller holes should be easier.