S810 Panel Question

DaveLakeMary

1 µW
Joined
Sep 13, 2024
Messages
2
Location
Lake Mary, Florida
I have an older 2016 Chinese bike. I am the second owner. I have maintained it well for the 4 years I have had it. The 810 panel wore through. For awhile I kept it saran wrapped so I could ride. This week I ordered a new S810 five wire panel. The bike, once up a time, had a headlight. So the panel had the on/off, light and mode switches.

I purchased one on Amazon that I thought would be the same. When I received it, the panel had the 6km switch instead of the light. The single sheet instruction, however, said light. The seller said it would work.

It does work ... but differently than the original.

Light. Never used it. Completely took it off the bike.

Mode Low Original - When pedaling, it launched hard and immediately went to about 8 mph. To me that was fast. But never having an e-bike before I thought it was normal.
Mode Low New - When pedaling the motor does not engage. It does engage with the throttle.

Mode Med Original - Launched hard and would immediately accellerate to 8-10 mph. Speeds would be a bit higher than low when pedaling in low.
Mode Med New - Launches to a comfortable 5/6 mph. Also works well and as expected with throttle.

Mode High Original - Not much different than medium.
Mode High New - Launches similar to new medium with a nice increase in speed with the throttle.

6KM switch - When depressing the and holding the mode switch, after a couple seconds the motor starts and begins to accelerate in all modes from idle (no pedaling or adjusting the throttle).

The first power led blinks as well. I thought that might indicate a low battery and fully charged it. No change.

Although I could live with everything as it is, I believe the Panel/Controller somehow needs parameters changed. I have read in other posts about the controller needs relearning. However I have had no luck finding any instructions or videos to do this.

Any ideas or links to videos/instructions would be a great help.

Many thanks, Dave
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0194-edited.jpg
    IMG_0194-edited.jpg
    243.6 KB · Views: 0
Your 810 is like this one? To summarize, the new 810 display has no PAS 1. PAS 2 appears to be a PAS 1, PAS 3 appears to be a PAS 2. Walk mode causes the motor to go nuts,
810LED.jpeg
I've owned three controllers with 810LED handlebar units. PAS 1 was set pretty high, and I had to get used to the hard start. The other speeds were OK, I eventually swapped out the controllers and 810LED for other controllers. These 810LED's were 4 wire analog units. Signalling was done on one wire which changed voltage (0-4 volts) for the four modes.

The third 810LED was a 5 wire digital model. It replaced the single DC voltage output with two data lines, send/receive, which expanded it to 5 wires. Mine came with a controller that also worked with a digital SW900 display that had 5 PAS levels. The 810 still only had 3 levels, so it must have sent digital commands that select PAS 1, PAS 3 and PAS5. Nonetheless,PAS 1 on this 810 LED was much better than PAS 1 on the SW900 connected to the same controller, running the same motor on the same bike,

My theory is you have a digital 810 with a different data protocal from the original. PAS 1 is ignored. PAS 2 is interpreted as PAS 1, and PAS3 is some intermediate PAS level. Walk mode drives the controller crazy.

I don't have any ideas for fixing it. If it is the digital interface, you have to get the suitable 810LED.

Did you buy it from ebikeling on amazon? One of my analog 810's and the digital version came from ebikeling. If it is an ebikeling item, you could probably buy his controller, which would work right.
 
Last edited:
Your 810 is like this one? To summarize, the new 810 display has no PAS 1. PAS 2 appears to be a PAS 1, PAS 3 appears to be a PAS 2. Walk mode causes the motor to go nuts,
View attachment 359531
I've owned three controllers with 810LED handlebar units. PAS 1 was set pretty high, and I had to get used to the hard start. The other speeds were OK, I eventually swapped out the controllers and 810LED for other controllers. These 810LED's were 4 wire analog units. Signalling was done on one wire which changed voltage (0-4 volts) for the four modes.

The third 810LED was a 5 wire digital model. It replaced the single DC voltage output with two data lines, send/receive, which expanded it to 5 wires. Mine came with a controller that also worked with a digital SW900 display that had 5 PAS levels. The 810 still only had 3 levels, so it must have sent digital commands that select PAS 1, PAS 3 and PAS5. Nonetheless,PAS 1 on this 810 LED was much better than PAS 1 on the SW900 connected to the same controller, running the same motor on the same bike,

My theory is you have a digital 810 with a different data protocal from the original. PAS 1 is ignored. PAS 2 is interpreted as PAS 1, and PAS3 is some intermediate PAS level. Walk mode drives the controller crazy.

I don't have any ideas for fixing it. If it is the digital interface, you have to get the suitable 810LED.

Did you buy it from ebikeling on amazon? One of my analog 810's and the digital version came from ebikeling. If it is an ebikeling item, you could probably buy his controller, which would work right.
Thanks for stating how my controller is working better than I did. Actually, after riding a few times, I am getting used to the way it is. The one thing I wish I could change is the battery level. The first LED just blinks. I can check the battery level directly on the battery itself, so really that is not a big deal. But you are right. PAS 1 is bypassed. PAS 2 is my old PAS 1. Using the way it is allows me to pedal and when needing a tiny boost, add the throttle. So it is working. It is almost 10 years old. But it is like an old car that runs well. You hate to get rid of it. Thank you for replying to my post.
 
Your 810 is like this one? To summarize, the new 810 display has no PAS 1. PAS 2 appears to be a PAS 1, PAS 3 appears to be a PAS 2. Walk mode causes the motor to go nuts,
View attachment 359531
I've owned three controllers with 810LED handlebar units. PAS 1 was set pretty high, and I had to get used to the hard start. The other speeds were OK, I eventually swapped out the controllers and 810LED for other controllers. These 810LED's were 4 wire analog units. Signalling was done on one wire which changed voltage (0-4 volts) for the four modes.

The third 810LED was a 5 wire digital model. It replaced the single DC voltage output with two data lines, send/receive, which expanded it to 5 wires. Mine came with a controller that also worked with a digital SW900 display that had 5 PAS levels. The 810 still only had 3 levels, so it must have sent digital commands that select PAS 1, PAS 3 and PAS5. Nonetheless,PAS 1 on this 810 LED was much better than PAS 1 on the SW900 connected to the same controller, running the same motor on the same bike,

My theory is you have a digital 810 with a different data protocal from the original. PAS 1 is ignored. PAS 2 is interpreted as PAS 1, and PAS3 is some intermediate PAS level. Walk mode drives the controller crazy.

I don't have any ideas for fixing it. If it is the digital interface, you have to get the suitable 810LED.

Did you buy it from ebikeling on amazon? One of my analog 810's and the digital version came from ebikeling. If it is an ebikeling item, you could probably buy his controller, which would work right.
Can I ask what you replaced the four wire 810 with and how? I'm not finding anything online that seems compatible. I'd love an lcd display, but it seems my controller might not be smart enough for anything above this since it's not uart style with only the four wires?
 
Can I ask what you replaced the four wire 810 with and how? I'm not finding anything online that seems compatible. I'd love an lcd display, but it seems my controller might not be smart enough for anything above this since it's not uart style with only the four wires?

You cannot replace the 4 wire 810 with anything besides another one. The controller is designed for 3 pas levels plus walk mode and has a single wire input for that.

You could buy a controller/display combo and get into a rewiring job, I've done that on two bikes that had 810 LED's.
 
Back
Top