Greetings, I have a Prodecotech Phantom X Ebike with a 36 volt battery and 500 watt motor. The bike originally came with the crappy Wuxing 4 pin ht throttle with the red on/off button. Years ago I bought a spare, but now they are both not working. I also bought a spare generic ht throttle (no on/off switch) which I recently connected but it has a problem. Although it worked good, as far as accelerating, the battery level LED's stay on green, even after the battery gets low, and the throttle gets hot. This throttle did not come with the connector, just the bare wires (red, blue, green, yellow.. which are the original 4 colors coming out of the controller) and the loose pins. I don't know much about electronics but I do know how to solder. I didn't want to mess with this so I had a motorcycle tech do it for me. Even though the colors were connected the same as the original Wuxing, is it possible that there is a discrepancy in the color codes? If so, how do correct it? Which colors do I swap? I should mention that the brake kill switch wires were cut off before I aquired the bike. It was working for many years with the Wuxings. Also, I don't know if the fact that the new throttle has no on/off button has anything to do with it either. I know these are cheap throttles but I now live in Mexico and they are not available here and to get them sent is expensive and risky. Any info, if anyone thinks it's a color code conflict and which colors to swap, would be highly appreciated. Cheers
Throttle Issues (color codes?)
- Thread starter SilverSun
- Start date
docw009
10 MW
I was wondering why you think a 6 wire throttle can be the same as a 4 wire model? Especially if two wires won't be supported?
It's the exact same model of throttle. It just has two extra wires that I wouldn't need on my model of bike. Can't I just use the 4 wires that my bike requires and not use the extra two wires that my bike does not need? With the wiring color charts, I would know which wires to connect to the plug.
TommyCat
10 kW
Sorry, missed the solder part... good to hear. Take care to not damage the wiring during disassembly and paying close attention to the spring placement.
What I'm hoping to as far as clarity of what goes where...
Note: I'm not expecting yours to be wired like this, but I plan on discussing this Zener Diode powered hall sensor throttle when you're all squared away.
If you have the descriptions for each of the wires of both throttles, and they match on the four you wish to connect. I see no reason why you couldn't match them up properly.
It would also seem possible to me to also include the other two wires, in the proper wiring locations, to give you all the functions that the original throttle had.
Post the descriptions when you can to be sure.
BTW, what would be an accurate and in-depth description of what the On/Off switch actually did on the original throttle.
I know that you like and are used to the operation of the LED battery indicator lights verses a digital voltmeter display. I also like lights. But I have both on my rig and tend to mainly use the voltmeter to keep a more accurate eye on my battery charge.
To add a bit of context...
It's my understanding that the LEDs where originally designed for lead acid batteries back in the day. And most likely not changed too much. As a result, they can be very inaccurate in determining the state of your battery charge.
Lead acid batteries discharge at a reasonable steady rate, but LI-Ion batteries discharge quickly at the start and end. With a slower discharge rate in the middle. This can throw off your prospective of the charge at different levels... just sayin.
Also, at this time you may want to consider a key switch in place of a regular switch if theft determent is an issue, and if a dangling key is O.K.
What I'm hoping to as far as clarity of what goes where...
Note: I'm not expecting yours to be wired like this, but I plan on discussing this Zener Diode powered hall sensor throttle when you're all squared away.
If you have the descriptions for each of the wires of both throttles, and they match on the four you wish to connect. I see no reason why you couldn't match them up properly.
It would also seem possible to me to also include the other two wires, in the proper wiring locations, to give you all the functions that the original throttle had.
Post the descriptions when you can to be sure.
BTW, what would be an accurate and in-depth description of what the On/Off switch actually did on the original throttle.
I know that you like and are used to the operation of the LED battery indicator lights verses a digital voltmeter display. I also like lights. But I have both on my rig and tend to mainly use the voltmeter to keep a more accurate eye on my battery charge.
To add a bit of context...
It's my understanding that the LEDs where originally designed for lead acid batteries back in the day. And most likely not changed too much. As a result, they can be very inaccurate in determining the state of your battery charge.
Lead acid batteries discharge at a reasonable steady rate, but LI-Ion batteries discharge quickly at the start and end. With a slower discharge rate in the middle. This can throw off your prospective of the charge at different levels... just sayin.
Also, at this time you may want to consider a key switch in place of a regular switch if theft determent is an issue, and if a dangling key is O.K.
docw009
10 MW
I see you saved that picture form that past thread. The schematic I posted represents that throttle, Self powered Hall chip in the throttle. No +5V vcc input, I wonder if the other guy ever got his bike running, as he was also tryiong to hook a 5 or 6 pin thorttle in place of the old one.
I'll leave it to two to sort it out, Maybe you can find 5 volts for him.
You're better off talking him thru building one goiod unit out of the two broken ones.
Thanks everybody for the help and thanks TC for encouraging me to learn more. I will learn more on multimeter, but I started to attempt to open the throttle and like before I found it too tedious for me. I will just continue looking online for some new ones. That is why I was asking about adapting the 6 pin throttle to the 4 pin connector. Can someone give me a solid yes or no on this question? I will repeat the question again here....if I buy the 6 pin throttle (which is the exact same model as my original except for having 6 pins instead of 4) and I have the color code charts for both, I should be able to use the charts to connect them properly, (including the colors that don't match) and disregard the two extra wires, right? I apologize for being repitious, but I just want an answer so I can order the throttles.Thanks again. Cheers
Sorry, missed the solder part... good to hear. Take care to not damage the wiring during disassembly and paying close attention to the spring placement.
What I'm hoping to as far as clarity of what goes where...
Note: I'm not expecting yours to be wired like this, but I plan on discussing this Zener Diode powered hall sensor throttle when you're all squared away.
If you have the descriptions for each of the wires of both throttles, and they match on the four you wish to connect. I see no reason why you couldn't match them up properly.
It would also seem possible to me to also include the other two wires, in the proper wiring locations, to give you all the functions that the original throttle had.
Post the descriptions when you can to be sure.
BTW, what would be an accurate and in-depth description of what the On/Off switch actually did on the original throttle.
I know that you like and are used to the operation of the LED battery indicator lights verses a digital voltmeter display. I also like lights. But I have both on my rig and tend to mainly use the voltmeter to keep a more accurate eye on my battery charge.
To add a bit of context...
It's my understanding that the LEDs where originally designed for lead acid batteries back in the day. And most likely not changed too much. As a result, they can be very inaccurate in determining the state of your battery charge.
Lead acid batteries discharge at a reasonable steady rate, but LI-Ion batteries discharge quickly at the start and end. With a slower discharge rate in the middle. This can throw off your prospective of the charge at different levels... just sayin.
Also, at this time you may want to consider a key switch in place of a regular switch if theft determent is an issue, and if a dangling key is O.K.
Hi TC, I just noticed that you Did answer my question about adapting the 6 pin to the 4 pin connector. It sounds like that is a Yes? I will post the color code charts on the two throttles tomorrow just to confirm before I order them. Thanks for your time and assistance.
TommyCat
10 kW
A resounding maybe.
Need to see these to be certain...
Links to the throttle information would work even better. I.E. Where you're getting the wiring descriptions.
Or just something like this...
4 wire throttle.
YELLOW-Batt +
GREEN-Signal
BLUE-Ground
RED-5vdc
6 wire throttle.
YELLOW-Switch
BROWN-Switch
RED-5vdc
BLACK-Ground
WHITE-Signal
GREEN-BATT+
Hey, a reminder on these LED throttles... They come in different voltage configurations, so be sure you order the correct voltage for your battery.
Glad to help.
As the original throttle is broken, you may want to go destructive mode on it anyway.
This thread may give you some clues on access to the interior.
Guide to Hall Sensor Throttle operation, testing, and modification. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum
Ok, I got the diagrams gathered up so you guys can help me determine the correct mismatched colored connections. Going from 6 pin to 4 pin connector as shown in previous photo and which two wires I will disregard? I forgot to mention that the bike Does have a key ignition switch. It's not on the throttle though. The correct function/color for my original throttle is ... Red- 5 volt, blue- ground, Green- throttle signal, Yellow- battery meter. The 6 pin throttle color codes are
shown on a screenshot. I have an idea of the correct connections, but I trust a more experienced opinion. Please inform me which four of the six pins I will use and which colors will be mismatched. I also found the another diagram that I will post now. Thanks for the assistance. You guys are very helpful.
shown on a screenshot. I have an idea of the correct connections, but I trust a more experienced opinion. Please inform me which four of the six pins I will use and which colors will be mismatched. I also found the another diagram that I will post now. Thanks for the assistance. You guys are very helpful.
Last edited:
TommyCat
10 kW
Original 4 wire throttle and matching controller wire colors.
YELLOW-Batt +
GREEN-Signal
BLUE-Ground
RED-5vdc
New replacement 6 wire throttle.
YELLOW-Switch
BROWN-Switch
RED-5vdc
BLACK-Ground
WHITE-Signal
GREEN-BATT+
Thank you for the translations BTW.
So, if you don't want to use the switch I would connect the following.
4-Wires to Controller...... Connect To........... 6-Wire Throttle.
RED wire............................................................RED wire
BLUE wire..........................................................BLACK wire.
GREEN wire......................................................WHITE wire.
YELLOW wire...................................................GREEN wire.
..............................................................................YELLOW wire... NOT USED.
..............................................................................BROWN wire... NOT USED.
Don't forget...
YELLOW-Batt +
GREEN-Signal
BLUE-Ground
RED-5vdc
New replacement 6 wire throttle.
YELLOW-Switch
BROWN-Switch
RED-5vdc
BLACK-Ground
WHITE-Signal
GREEN-BATT+
Thank you for the translations BTW.
So, if you don't want to use the switch I would connect the following.
4-Wires to Controller...... Connect To........... 6-Wire Throttle.
RED wire............................................................RED wire
BLUE wire..........................................................BLACK wire.
GREEN wire......................................................WHITE wire.
YELLOW wire...................................................GREEN wire.
..............................................................................YELLOW wire... NOT USED.
..............................................................................BROWN wire... NOT USED.
Don't forget...
This is probably the reason that your current throttle is hot, and displays all the LEDs all the time...
Last edited:
Cool, thanks for confirming the connections. That's the way I figured, but just wanted to validate it. I was asking to confirm this 6 to 4 connection thing before I order the new 6 pin throttles. Allow me to explain my current situation again just so we are on the same page. I am not using the new throttle with No on/off switch, that I bought years ago, because it gets hot. Which btw, I noticed yesterday that it is a 24 volt. Its marked on the throttle. I ordered the 36 volt and I even have the receipt that says it was a 36 v, but oh well, that was years ago. Supposedly a 24v throttle will work with a 36 v system, but without accurate battery metering, but this one gets really hot. Do you think that if I remove the yellow battery meter pin, that it will work without getting hot? I can deal with no meters until I get the new throttles. Right now I'm using one of the old original throttles that I had but it has an intermittent problem of cutting off randomly, but when I press the on/off switch a few times, it catches back on. I'd rather use the new 24 volt throttle if it works without the battery meter connected. Two more questions regarding your last post... when you say battery+ , that's the same as battery meter, right? Also, what switch are you talking about, that I don't want to use? The key ignition or the on/off button? When I get the new throttles and do the 6 to 4 conversion, I should have everything working like it originally did, right? That was 3 more questions.
I'm sure I will have many more questions in the future too! Thanks again for your help and patience.
TommyCat
10 kW
It's always nice to have corroboration.
Yes, this will remove the overvoltage situation of 36vdc going into the 24vdc LED circuitry which is causing it to get hot.
This will also disable the LEDs, but which at this time are giving you misinformation as per battery charge.
With the YELLOW wire disconnected, it should work perfectly well.
This refers to the designated wire as having full battery positive power applied to it.
As this is used by the battery meter or LEDs to indicate battery charge, you could look at it that way in this case.
The RED On/Off button (switch) on your soon to be ordered new throttle. (6 wire) You've made it sound like you wanted to disregard two wires...
Not without also connecting the last two wires.
That is why I specifically asked this question...
From the research I've done, and with back-up of your new throttle information you posted above. I would speculate that the button disabled the throttle, but not the LED lights. Unless you let me know otherwise....
So, if you would like to have it operate that way, the new wiring would be as follows...
4-Wires to Controller...... Connect To........... 6-Wire Throttle
RED wire.....................................................................YELLOW wire
BLUE wire...................................................................BLACK wire.
GREEN wire...............................................................WHITE wire.
YELLOW wire............................................................GREEN wire.
.......................................................................................BROWN wire connected to the remaining RED wire on the new throttle.
This in effect, just puts a switch (the Red Button) in series with the 5vdc supply going to the throttle's hall sensor.
Keep those questions coming.
I don't mind answering yours, but you have to answer mine! 
Thanks for the answers. I missed your question on the on/off switch. Yes, originally when it worked properly, it just shuts the motor off, not the LED's.It's always nice to have corroboration.
Yes, this will remove the overvoltage situation of 36vdc going into the 24vdc LED circuitry which is causing it to get hot.
This will also disable the LEDs, but which at this time are giving you misinformation as per battery charge.
With the YELLOW wire disconnected, it should work perfectly well.
This refers to the designated wire as having full battery positive power applied to it.
As this is used by the battery meter or LEDs to indicate battery charge, you could look at it that way in this case.
The RED On/Off button (switch) on your soon to be ordered new throttle. (6 wire) You've made it sound like you wanted to disregard two wires...
Not without also connecting the last two wires.
That is why I specifically asked this question...
From the research I've done, and with back-up of your new throttle information you posted above. I would speculate that the button disabled the throttle, but not the LED lights. Unless you let me know otherwise....
So, if you would like to have it operate that way, the new wiring would be as follows...
4-Wires to Controller...... Connect To........... 6-Wire Throttle
RED wire.....................................................................YELLOW wire
BLUE wire...................................................................BLACK wire.
GREEN wire...............................................................WHITE wire.
YELLOW wire............................................................GREEN wire.
.......................................................................................BROWN wire connected to the remaining RED wire on the new throttle.
This in effect, just puts a switch (the Red Button) in series with the 5vdc supply going to the throttle's hall sensor.
Keep those questions coming.
Thanks again TC, Ok, I will change back to the new throttle and disconnect the yellow pin and see how it goes. Remember, I'm learning as I go. I figured since everything worked with the original 4 pin throttle, then I wouldn't need the extra two wires. I'm not sure what you mean by connecting brown wire to remaining red wire? I can do without the on/off switch, so If I connect it like you described in the first diagram (just 4 wires) will everything work, except the on/off switch? I can live with that. Hope I'm explaining it right.
I guess you mean the remaining red and brown wires from the new throttle would be connected together? I thought red always goes to red, but like I said, I'm learning. I'd rather do it the way you explaned the first time, if it just means I will have to do without the on/off switch.
TommyCat
10 kW
That is correct.
That is correct. Just one different connection on the original four, then tie the brown and red together... easy peasy. And boom, works just like your original throttle.
Whichever you decide on will work.
I have my throttle's switch do the same thing, shut off power to the throttle. And always like the ability to turn off or disable the throttle.
Handy if you're moving the powered-up bike around and you don't have to worry about accidently bumping the throttle.
Also works as a bit of anti-theft deterrent, and a safety shut-off if the throttle goes wonky.
If you don't use it, make sure both your brake cutoff switches work properly and cut the motor off when actuated.
(Always recommended anyway!)
Also, a reminder when disconnecting that YELLOW wire with the battery disconnected for temporary operation. To be sure and isolate that full battery potential wire safely from any other wire connections.
To use a quote from any post for a more precise and accurate discussion...
Have the blinking curser in your reply post in the correct location for the quote.
Then just highlight any text in a previous post that you want to use. After highlighting, a drop-down box at the bottom right of this text will appear that has an arrow and says REPLY.
Click on this reply box, and the quote box including the text that you had highlighted. Like the one at the top of this post will appear in your reply post.
I hooked up the 24 volt throttle yesterday. It works great. I disconnected the yellow wire and I enclosed the exposed part with heat shrink. I think I mentioned that the brake cut off switches were removed when I got the bike. Ever since I had a throttle get stuck on, I always wait until I get on the bike before I turn my key on and turn the key off before I get off the bike. Thanks for the help with all of my questions. I'm sure to have alot more to come, but regarding this 24 volt throttle, it is not detrimental to the battery, motor or anything else, in any way to use it like this?
Last edited:
TommyCat
10 kW
Fix em.Perfectly alright, no worries what so ever.
You’re welcome, it has been a pleasure.
T.C.
Gracias Amigo, I am learning alot. Forgive me with so many detailed inquiries. I like learning new stuff and when I'm not completely clear on something, I try to get the answers. I hit you with enough questions for today. I'm sure I'll be back tomorrow with some more.
Perfectly alright, no worries what so ever.
You’re welcome, it has been a pleasure.
T.C.
Chalo
100 TW
Brake cutoff switches are not used on any other vehicles that people routinely use for transportation, all of which are more powerful and dangerous than e-bikes.
If you think you're mentally feeble, incompetent, and untrustworthy, use brake cutoff switches. If not, leave them off.
If you think you're mentally feeble, incompetent, and untrustworthy, use brake cutoff switches. If not, leave them off.
