SCID Beach Cruiser

Joined
May 7, 2009
Messages
2,229
Location
N-E Victoria, AUS
Starting on my new build.

SCID = Single Chain Inline Drive

It's a simple single-speed series drive where the output shaft, the bottom bracket axle and the rear wheel axle are collinear. In theory this would eliminate the need for chain tension devices and also decrease side loading of the WI ENO. The pictures below show the idea. Note: the output shaft is for illustration only.scid1.jpgscid2.jpg
This picture shows how SCID can be based on the internals of a Ananda Q10scid3.jpg0




Progress so far:

Sickbikes WI ENO to 94BCD adaptor
Tools used 54mm holesaw, M5 tap, step-drill, var drill bitsroughcut.jpg


US to euro bottom-bracket adaptorbb_adaptor.jpg



Things to do:
Decide upon which motor to use. The bike is going to be < 2,000W < 40kph
Add motor mount
Add disc brake mounts, front and rear, will use Hope C2 hydros
Change the rear dropouts to rear facing, prob stainless
Add flatbed front rack mounts
Add battery mounts
Respray in light sky blue with cream highlight,seat will be a Brooks, tyres - Fat Franks cream of course!
Fab flatbed rack out of wood slates
Make battery case out of veneer ply wood - light, strong, easy to work with and looks great
Polish and coat with PU all the wooden parts

Did I miss anything?
 

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I haven't had my coffee yet and even if I had I'm not an expert, but wouldn't this limit the amont of torque the pedal ring could contribute, or at least change the wear pattern on teeth during pedalling? That pondered, if you aren't intending to do much pedalling this would seem a dandy setup.

Would this also allow a momentary motor reversal to switch gears on a freewheeling two-speed kickback rear hub? Maybe one could limit the amount of power going to the reverse direction for that purpose.

Heck, if you did have coaster brakes this could be a form of power assisted braking, hehe.
 
:shock: Cool. I like the SCID in principle.

You will still need to adjust the output shaft position to perform your chain tensioning though wont you.

full-throttle said:
Decide upon which motor to use. The bike is going to be < 2,000W < 40kph
:cry: Why not use your 80-100? No harm in having the extra power. You never know when you might need it. :lol:

full-throttle said:
Add flatbed front rack mounts
Fab flatbed rack out of wood slates
Make battery case out of veneer ply wood - light, strong, easy to work with and looks great
Polish and coat with PU all the wooden parts
Yeah, baby. This will be one sweet grocery getter. Looking forward to seeing it come to life mate.

- Adrian
 
gogo said:
wouldn't this limit the amont of torque the pedal ring could contribute, or at least change the wear pattern on teeth during pedalling?
It will def reduce the # of teeth engaging. I'd be comfortable with 8t on the top and 8t on the bottom.
adrian_sm said:
ou will still need to adjust the output shaft position to perform your chain tensioning though wont you.
Yes. I'm thinking of a pivotal system as it's very rigid and easy to adjust.

C80100 is on the list - anyone could recommend a compact 10:1 reduction.
I've got a 6:1 that can be adapted easily. All I'd need to do is go for 9t output driver and 18t on the back. The rear hub is a 3sp internal Sachs Quartz 3x7 disc-brake ready and having a Shimano spline makes gearing choice and chainline adjustment a brieze.
I've also got a 30:1 2 stage sealed power wheelchair tranny (top of the first pic) however the first stage is worm :( other than that it will happily take the C80100 with minimal work. Best of all it has a 90* inbuilt.
 
full-throttle said:
All I'd need to do is go for 9t output driver and 18t on the back.

9t is pretty small. It is likely to be noisy, and wear out pretty quick. Better to keep a higher tooth count if at all possible.
 
That rig is looking fun full throttle. seems like you are just down the road a few miles on about every project I do.....

I have a nice b17 narrow, honey brown with box, manual & proofide I can get offer up if you like....

Are you going to stick with those dropouts then?

If not I had my eye on these before I made my own chunky monkey vertical ones...

http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/MTB-Y-shaped-dropout-for-29er-and-26er-investment-cast-plug-style.html

where do you anticpate placing your batts?


len
 
Nice looking cruiser there..

The only downside I see is that you'll always be pedalling when you want power- it's quite nice not to pedal with my hubbie and be bombing along at speed!

Keep us posted :wink:
 
andynogo said:
The only downside I see is that you'll always be pedalling when you want power
Oh, I'm not sure I made it clear - the cranks are freewheeling.

Lenk42602 said:
That rig is looking fun full throttle. seems like you are just down the road a few miles on about every project I do.....

I have a nice b17 narrow, honey brown with box, manual & proofide I can get offer up if you like....

Are you going to stick with those dropouts then?

If not I had my eye on these before I made my own chunky monkey vertical ones...

http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/MTB-Y-shaped-dropout-for-29er-and-26er-investment-cast-plug-style.html

where do you anticpate placing your batts?


len
Yeah I saw your 29er :) looks so similar. Like what you've done with the dropouts!

Thanks for the link.

At the moment I'm more interested to test the geometry and try the concept out. If it works well I'll prob make it cleaner..

Batteries could even fit between the seat tube and the back wheel.
 
That looks like it will ride like a dream. Love the simplicity of it.
 
Hows this bike coming along? Keen to see any of your progress mate.
 
Hey full-throttle nice build, I really like cruiser style bikes, and I'm looking forward to seeing how your collinear drive goes.
How good/close was the fit between the eno and the adapter after using the 54mm hole saw?
Cheers,
Matt.P.
 
Sorry Matt, no updates since last post..

The fit was pretty good. The OD on the ENO from sickbikeparts.com is nearly the same to the ID of a 94mm-BCD chainring.
 
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