Seeking Suggestions

[VictorNYC]

Hi, quick question, I'm doing another cheap build for one of my coworkers using a Bafang G310 (easy to service and get spare parts) and Im using a combination of 36V 20ah / 48V 17ah batteries, for work doing UBER on mostly flat city miles and looking for as much range as possible while trying to stay legal for a newer user, my original plan was using a C4820-GR_Higo 20A from ebike.ca but they been out of stock for a while now, we been using my Baserunner Z9 for a few days but it honestly feels like overkill for her and she's not loving the prices once you add a CA, so I was wondering does anyone have any other recommendations for anything in between those two? Anywhere from $100 to $200 (Controller and CA) and decently weatherproofed are the top parameters since we are not pushing that motor, it's a straight throttle build (no PA) and I'm planning on keeping it as uncomplicated as possible (throttle, light, horn and if it can run without a display after programed even better but not necessary) in case she needs to get repairs with someone else down the road, any links or recommendations would be greatly appreciated

 

[Chalo]

Surplus Jump bike front motor, 15A or 22A KT controller in a splash deflecting box, KT LCD4 display, Wuxing 130X throttle. Motor extension cable if you need one. 36V battery for max range, 48V battery for more pep. Real M12x1.25 nuts to replace the security nonsense. You can probably land it all at the address of your choice for under $175 not including the battery.

If you have consumer derangement syndrome and don't feel right about buying a salvaged motor, buy two. Then you'll have a spare.

 

[markz]

It is always wise to have two of everything.
Two motors, two controllers, two throttles even two bicycles, even two digital multi meters and a spare set of dmm probes and spare wire strippers, extra wire, extra connectors, extra solder, a spare soldering iron. This is true for someone who relies on their ebike for daily transport or for a wage. You start swapping things out when it dont work to pinpoint the issue, and most importantly the less auxiliary components you have, the better so you go without a display and pedal assist and go without cheap components that came with your kit like cheap ass connectors and unknown rims, spokes and nipples with an unknown lace job. Unlike if you get a laced wheel from Grintech I would trust them of course.

 

[VictorNYC]

Surplus Jump bike front motor, 15A or 22A KT controller in a splash deflecting box, KT LCD4 display, Wuxing 130X throttle. Motor extension cable if you need one. 36V battery for max range, 48V battery for more pep. Real M12x1.25 nuts to replace the security nonsense. You can probably land it all at the address of your choice for under $175 not including the battery.

If you have consumer derangement syndrome and don't feel right about buying a salvaged motor, buy two. Then you'll have a spare.

Thank you so much for the suggestions, I just learned that KT has its own store on Alibaba and that's basically all I was hoping for, I found the 22A WP Sinewave light, the LCD4 WP, the 130x WP and if I'm not mistaking I'll need the 1T5 (9pin) to connect it all correct? Unless you suggest differently? I did get one of those JUMP motors already for a feature build but I got lucky and I found locally two G310's pretty cheap and brand new so I'll use that. And yeah I agree, if its working and at a good price it's worth a shot lol, besides once installed no one knows or cares where it came from.

 

[VictorNYC]

It is always wise to have two of everything.
Two motors, two controllers, two throttles even two bicycles, even two digital multi meters and a spare set of dmm probes and spare wire strippers, extra wire, extra connectors, extra solder, a spare soldering iron. This is true for someone who relies on their ebike for daily transport or for a wage. You start swapping things out when it dont work to pinpoint the issue, and most importantly the less auxiliary components you have, the better so you go without a display and pedal assist and go without cheap components that came with your kit like cheap ass connectors and unknown rims, spokes and nipples with an unknown lace job. Unlike if you get a laced wheel from Grintech I would trust them of course.

Yeah sadly I learned that the hard way lol, and I don't carry as much as I should but I'm still gathering tools for my little toolbox, although I *do have a lot less issues every since Im using my own build because that's exactly what I did with my daily driver, good battery and controller, only throttle and went with Mavics, Schwalbes and MT5's, I use a little clear Plasti Dip on the CA whenever I use it and a bit on the throttle for a little extra insurance, although I can always use more tips on weather proofing if you know any, I hear nail polish is useful but not sure what kind to get, do you know if I can run the KT without a CA after set up?

 

[99t4]

I can always use more tips on weather proofing if you know any...

Very difficult and expen$ive to truly weatherPROOF components. You can make it more weather resistant with caulk, plasti-dip, and similar, but need to consider how to take care of the water that does get in. Good to have or make small drain holes at the lowest point of the mounted case so any accumulated water has a way out. Weak point for water ingress in controllers for example is where the wires exit. Mount it with that part facing down, and not in the path of tire spray.

Can make a drip loop in the wires that enter a device horizontally (hub motor for example).

Affix improvisatorial plastic bags over susceptible components (throttle? display?) in a heavy downpour.

Use good water resistant connectors. the HINO have been working well for me.

I tried wrapping my previous JST connectors with silicone self-fusing tape but that seemed to dry up and start cracking too soon, however there are different qualities of that tape available.

Common dielectric grease in the connectors seems to help.

 

[dogman dan]

Best caulk I ever seen, in 40 year construction career, is the stuff designed to be used on metal or vinyl gutters. Usually you find it next to the gutter in the store, not in the section with silicone. Silicone is useless crap, good only for a short time.

Kind of runny like self leveling caulk but crazy sticky, and stays a bit on the flexy side for years. Only thing I ever saw that reliably stuck to polyethylene. Metal gutter and pvc gutter easy for it.

Next after that, is real butylene. That's the stuff you see on rv roofs, on the original seal of the vents and such.

But the best weatherproofing is a bit simple for controllers. With a rear fender or rack between it and the tire, mount it under your ass as much as possible. While riding, your ass makes a wind shadow keeping the rear rack area dry. To park in the weather, a trash bag over the seat keeps it, and the controller dry.

 

[99t4]

Very good DD, thanks, forgot about the seam sealer!

My favorite:
https://www.geocelusa.com/product/2320-2321-construction-tripolymer-gutter-and-narrow-seam-sealant/
The small squeeze tube size usually is more than plenty.

Otherwise can often find body seam sealer (similar product) at your FLAPS.

You're right, silicone caulk is for novices. :wink:

 

[999zip999]

I looked at the gutter sealant it said may not be able to be available in California ? Does New Mexico still have oil based paint ? How about good paint thinner ?

 

[99t4]

Might be a problem for you there in SoCal 9zip. OTOH it never rains there so what are you weatherizing for?

 

[Chalo]

Might be a problem for you there in SoCal 9zip. OTOH it never rains there so what are you weatherizing for?

 

[VictorNYC]

I can always use more tips on weather proofing if you know any...

Very difficult and expen$ive to truly weatherPROOF components. You can make it more weather resistant with caulk, plasti-dip, and similar, but need to consider how to take care of the water that does get in. Good to have or make small drain holes at the lowest point of the mounted case so any accumulated water has a way out. Weak point for water ingress in controllers for example is where the wires exit. Mount it with that part facing down, and not in the path of tire spray.

Can make a drip loop in the wires that enter a device horizontally (hub motor for example).

Affix improvisatorial plastic bags over susceptible components (throttle? display?) in a heavy downpour.

Use good water resistant connectors. the HINO have been working well for me.

I tried wrapping my previous JST connectors with silicone self-fusing tape but that seemed to dry up and start cracking too soon, however there are different qualities of that tape available.

Common dielectric grease in the connectors seems to help.

Thanks!

 

[VictorNYC]

Best caulk I ever seen, in 40 year construction career, is the stuff designed to be used on metal or vinyl gutters. Usually you find it next to the gutter in the store, not in the section with silicone. Silicone is useless crap, good only for a short time.

Kind of runny like self leveling caulk but crazy sticky, and stays a bit on the flexy side for years. Only thing I ever saw that reliably stuck to polyethylene. Metal gutter and pvc gutter easy for it.

Next after that, is real butylene. That's the stuff you see on rv roofs, on the original seal of the vents and such.

But the best weatherproofing is a bit simple for controllers. With a rear fender or rack between it and the tire, mount it under your ass as much as possible. While riding, your ass makes a wind shadow keeping the rear rack area dry. To park in the weather, a trash bag over the seat keeps it, and the controller dry.

Great! Thanks!