Selfmade E-Hardtail (Just have a look ;)

Zeurus

10 mW
Joined
Sep 9, 2018
Messages
22
Hey guys,

after our last projekt, where we built in a motor in our normal bikes (signature), we decided to do it right, from the beginnig till the end.
So we ended creating our new bike in CAD. After endless hours of planing and manufacturing with CNC machines were really proud what came out. :D Till now we drove 950km (with about 30000 meters in hight) in the Mountain of Tyrol/Austria. Mostly driving trails and steep technical stuff.
Building time was about 6months from march till august for 2 bikes.


Some Facts:
* hardtail - EN-Al6060 / 6026 welded, hardened, sandblasted and painted
* tyres: 27.5*2.8inch - tubeless
* fronttravel: 160mm
* weight: 30kg
* motor: 6.5kw peak and about 3.5- 4kw continious power (modified LMX30mm 2019 Motor)
* battery: 144x Samsung 29E Cells -> about 1.5kwh with bms
* range: 60-90km with 1500-2500hm (on the flat... dont know^^)
* controller: Nucular 12F Controller (Amazing work Vasily!)
* 2 halftwist throttles: acceleration right side and recuperating on the left
 

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Very nice work! Does it perform as you intended?

:D :bolt:
 
Nice.

So is the whole stator just pressed into the original lmx housing? Do you press it out or machine the housing down to just a small sleeve to install in your custom housing?

Im pretty impressed with my 30mm lmx motor so far. I rode about 7km of repeated 4kw bursts from a dead stop yesterday. When I was done the stock motor was only 52degC. I bet yours is a beast with the extra heat shedding ability.
 
yeah its just pressed in.
I did one cut in axle direction on the housing, then is realy easy to take the stator out.

no we measured the exact diameter and then pressed it in again in our housing. (with locktite glue).

yeah maybe now due to cold conditions. in summer with 30degrees its a mess when you drain cont. power. (we always had to wait for cooldown from 100°)
some burst are not the problem. current causes the heat, due to resistance in the phase wires.
4kw at max rpm is less current than 4kw at 30%max rpm.
1kw with 25%max rpm causes nearly the same heat as 4kw at 100%max rpm and 1kw upwards is not that much.

overall its not a bad motor but now its a difference like day and night^^
 
we considered a fullsuspension bike, but there a view things you have to consider about. espcially if you want recuperation and middrive combined with low weight (sometimes we have to carry the bike upwards difficult steep paths). maybe out of a mood this following year but not planned. currently were planning a strong headlight for this dark winterdays :)

noice level is generally good with fresh o-rings installed on the drive sprocket. They're lasting about 150-200km till they wear out, then its as loud as on the vid i've posted. but not uncomfortable on the bike.
 
Nice job, it's set a bit of a benchmark for me.

I've had my 30mm LMX apart on the bench for a while as I figure how to achieve what I'm after (fitting a clutch with reduction). I'm getting closer to jumping in and making a new housing as you have.

There's a lot of room in the back of the standard motor, it looks like you must have machined the shaft down too to get that short motor?
How did you go about getting the rotor out and back in again without damaging either magnets or fingers? I've been hesitant to tackle that.

Cheers.
 
Im using one of these newer style 46kv 30mm Lmx motors with a nucular 6fet. It runs pretty well in FOC but growls and sounds like its losing sync at full rpm unloaded. It also has a slight stutter when i gently apply throttle from a steady cruise.

Do you have any tips or a config file you could share for using this motor with the NUC?
 
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