Setup for icefishing auger

M

maksuttt

1 mW
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
12
Hello guys,
This is my first post here, but I was reading the forums for a bit... It was a great inspiration!

I am building an ice fishing electric powered auger, and I need an advice on my setup. I have a planetary gear 1:10 reducer (gear head) and aiming the speed of the auger in 300-400RPM
After some research I have this setup in my mind:
For the motor - Turnigy SK63-74 170Kv
For the battery - 3 Zippi 6s 20c 3000mA in parralel
For the ESC - Hobbyking SS Series 190-200A ESC (I don't need any flexibility - auger spins at full power all the time)

Obviously, I will be using it in cold, so I need an extra Amps on a really cold days, so that’s why I want to use 3 6s packs in parallel. Also, I plan to insulate the batteries from the cold, but it's close to impossible in Canadian winter conditions:) The only question I have is the motor - will it handle the bursts of 180A for a minute? The auger is working for a short time - it takes no more then a minute to drill the hole even in the thick ice... Weather and water proofing of entire system shouldn't be the problem.

Am I on the right route?

Any feedback is appreciated and welcome!

Thank you!
Max
 
No suggestions so far? :cry:
Should I try to post in E-Bike Non-hub Motor Drives section?
 
I think here is probably a good place for your post there are plenty of knowledgeable chappy's here in this forum (I'm not one) :| ,just give it time they might be working on their own project,
cheers and welcome
mark
 
I love the project! I just didn't have any input when I read it :mrgreen: I'm a little worried about that much torque on the ice fishing auger. From my limited experience of ice fishing, the auger can get stuck and stall the blade. The ESC will NOT like that. It might be worth considering a sensored solution. I'm not real familiar with the RC stuff so if the motor you've selected is way oversized you'll be OK anyway. Keep us posted! It might not hurt to bump up to the 5000mAh cells too. I feel like you could burn through that pretty quick, and it would be frustrating to come in off the ice to charge the auger:D
 
Make it so you can carry the batteries in your inside pocket until just before you want to drill. They'll stay warm that way.

I'm not sure about the motor power. It's been a long time since I went ice fishing. At least overheating shouldn't be a problem :D

As long as you have more than enough juice to drill the hole(s), efficiency shouldn't be a big concern. You might consider using a cordless drill motor/gears with a separate Lipo pack.
 
Thanks guys! Sorry for my impatience...
I was thinking about using the cordless drill guts, but they are not beefy enough to handle the job. I am thinking about using 8-9" auger, so getting stuck with powerfull enough motor shouldn't be a problem. Some of the available gas augers using 25-30cc engines - I haven't seen them got stuck (you kinda control the pressure on the auger - just don't overload it). Now I am not sure if the motor I like to use is good enough - it's rated to 3250W. I might think about TR 80-85-B 170Kv, which is 6000W or even Turnigy 80-100-B 130Kv - 6500W
As for 5000mA batteries - I might think about swithing to them. They are a bit more expensive and a bit heavier though... And I like the idea to make them easily removable to store in the warm pocket:)
If I use the hall sensor on the motor - can I use that HB ESC I listed in the first post?
Thank you again!
 
I remember using an industrial strength hammer drill to go through a concrete floor and it got stuck. It spun me around in circles until the power cord pulled out! I suppose some kind of slip clutch might help, but if you're standing on ice, you won't have that much traction.

I'm not sure how accurate those power ratings are but an electric motor with a real 3kW output will be right up there with a 30cc gas engine. Maybe even better because it won't stall and the torque increases as rpm drops.
 
could be a viable product if light enough and robust. esc or motor coooling shouldnt be a problem thats for sure!!! I like it !!

Mabye a small geared hub motor in a stokemonkey style (tonoxin?/bafang) and 6fet, to your gearbox. mounted on a steel plate bolted to an aluminum shell/enclosure. they would be cheap .

but im sure a r/c would work with the proper gearing and voltage!

Go forth and experiment!!!

mike in mb
 
Never been icefishing, but... yer tapping about a 200Wh nominal pack? So 200W for one hour, at 20C 4kW for 3 minutes? `Cause I don't know watt I'm tapping about I'd try just encasing a heating element in a metal ring and melt a hole through the ice... Quieter and easier on the back. Make the watts adjustable down to zero and ya have something warm to sit on too. Crank it up to boil the coffee wattever...
:mrgreen:
Lock
 
admins, this needs to be moved to the icefishing auger section asap :lol:
 
I agree with the other posters you may want a gearbox, here's a good thread to give you a couple of ideas to start with, the "RC Brushcutter":
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=22874&start=0
file.php
 
Actually I was thinking a diamond shape so when his fishing buddies walk over they go WTF! Betcha their holes are all round and kinda...boring.
:twisted:

The idea isn't to melt the whole hole, just the edges then extract the core.
Lock
 
I think your speed is too high, I would think driving the 10:1 box with at least a 3:1 would be a better fit.

Power wise, you're fine. Batts kept under the coat is a great idea.
I have no idea how long it takes to drill ice, but as a ball-park estimate, each 6s5ah pack is going to give you about 7-8mins of 1hp drilling.
 
Lock said:
The idea isn't to melt the whole hole, just the edges then extract the core.
Click to expand...

Had to look this up... about the biggest auger ya could EVer want is 8" diameter.

If ya want to melt a circular hole 8" OD and 7" ID the volume would be only ten cups of water per foot of ice depth.

It's possible this could be seen as not as "manly" as wielding an big, noisy auger, but ya could re-brand the element as a "branding iron" as in "Hand me the iron" which should resonate with a lot of North American male DNA.
:lol:
Lock

(ps... looking to be bought out now by the ice auger manufacturing industry)
 
liveforphysics said:
I think your speed is too high, I would think driving the 10:1 box with at least a 3:1 would be a better fit.

Power wise, you're fine. Batts kept under the coat is a great idea.
I have no idea how long it takes to drill ice, but as a ball-park estimate, each 6s5ah pack is going to give you about 7-8mins of 1hp drilling.
Click to expand...

I researched the speed charts for commercially available augers first - most of them are in this range, both electric and gas.
On the fishing forum I found a guy who built the electric auger using homemade gear reduction unit and 350W 24V DC motor + lead/acid batteries. His reduction ratio is 1:8.5 and he happily drills with 10" auger:)
So, I believe I should be fine:)
As for time to drill the hall - depends on the ice thickness... Right now with 4" ice for power auger it takes 3-5 seconds:)
Thanks!
 
Lock said:
(ps... looking to be bought out now by the ice auger manufacturing industry)
Click to expand...
Unless the water re-freezes behind the coil as it moves through.... like plastic can do when using too fine a sawblade.
 
TylerDurden said:
Lock said:
(ps... looking to be bought out now by the ice auger manufacturing industry)
Click to expand...
Unless the water re-freezes behind the coil as it moves through.... like plastic can do when using too fine a sawblade.
Click to expand...


This was my concern as well.


And yet, something like an 1/8"x1" strip of stainless steel curved in a ring/hoop on its side, with a couple very husky terminals welded onto it might actually have enough temp overhead to do the job.

Say you have 10 x 2s 5ah nano tech packs in parallel as the current source, you've got a few thousand amps on tap to feed to the heating element, and as long as you could keep the feed rate high enough that the element never tries to boil water, only melt it, then you may have a shot for a thinner ice situation.
 
An auger seems wasteful compared to the "melt" idea.
but how about some kind of "Core drill" similar to those used on concrete etc ?
Not having to "Cut" all the ice in a 9" hole should require less power/ energy than an auger ?
300px-Core_drill_06_2005.jpg
Dri_Bits_Standard_HC710-0129b_large.jpg
 
Core drills have one disadvantage: you need to remove the core:) If the Ice thickness is 2.5' and diameter of the hall is 10" that would be a heavy piece of ice to fish out:)
 
Good point about the weight of the core. You could use a stick and just push it down until it clears the bottom of the ice and swings out of the way. (the bouyant force will be much less than the weight).

Whether by melting or by core drilling, it would take much less energy to create a hole by leaving a core.

Or... you could just use dynamite:
http://wcthompson.com/funnies/dumbdog.htm
 
Hillhater you read my mind, that is more the lines I was thinking of, a big hole saw as we call them in the building industry, after all we are only talking of about 4-6" thick and about 8" D
 
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