Setup for icefishing auger
- Thread starter maksuttt
- Start date
By the end ow winter it will be 2'-3' in some places.
You might be able to use a right angle wheel chair motor. Sometimes you can get a whole wheelchair for cheap on Craigslist. Here's a similar motor from H&R:
http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/me...AR&Product_Code=TM02MTR4552&Category_Code=MTR
These may not be quite as powerful as a good brushless RC motor, but the gearbox looks hefty enough. Since you won't be running it for long periods of time, you could run it at a higher voltage to get more power.
http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/me...AR&Product_Code=TM02MTR4552&Category_Code=MTR
These may not be quite as powerful as a good brushless RC motor, but the gearbox looks hefty enough. Since you won't be running it for long periods of time, you could run it at a higher voltage to get more power.
dingoEsride
100 kW
What do you plan to catch?
John in CR
100 TW
Maksuttt,
It looks like you have a great plan. I watched some auger vids and some electric ice auger info. Those things chew right through even very thick ice quickly (about a minute for 3ft), and the electric one I looked at claimed 45 holes through 30" thick ice with a lead acid battery pack of 288wh nominal. While you have 199wh nominal, lead acid performs poorly in comparison and in the cold even worse, so kept warm in your pocket you will carry more usable energy. Your rpm target looks good too compared to the high powered augers like yours will be. I've never been ice fishing, but 40+ holes on a charge sure seems like plenty, so I think you've nailed it.
Please share the results here once you build it.
John
It looks like you have a great plan. I watched some auger vids and some electric ice auger info. Those things chew right through even very thick ice quickly (about a minute for 3ft), and the electric one I looked at claimed 45 holes through 30" thick ice with a lead acid battery pack of 288wh nominal. While you have 199wh nominal, lead acid performs poorly in comparison and in the cold even worse, so kept warm in your pocket you will carry more usable energy. Your rpm target looks good too compared to the high powered augers like yours will be. I've never been ice fishing, but 40+ holes on a charge sure seems like plenty, so I think you've nailed it.
Please share the results here once you build it.
John
Gordo
100 kW
Lock said:Actually I was thinking a diamond shape so when his fishing buddies walk over they go WTF! Betcha their holes are all round and kinda...boring.
The idea isn't to melt the whole hole, just the edges then extract the core.
Lock
Lock;
You might want to go look up "heat of conversion". It takes a zillion watts to convert 1lb of ice to 1lb of water. With a perfect heat sink all around your brain fart element, you might as well power it with beer; ie get 6 guys to pee on the ice in a circle. :lol: If you have ever tried pulling a block of ice out of a lake, it ain't easy. The auger is the way to go.
Lock
100 MW
Tks Gordo... Tried to explain at the outset, wasn't sure watt I was tapping about... and I know it's easier to get <6L of Canadian alcohol-infused urine brought to bear but to watt effect? Guess I was hoping the heat sink wasn't truly infinite beyond eg 98.6F X xL X xMins...
L0cK
L0cK
John in CR
100 TW
Gordo said:Lock said:Actually I was thinking a diamond shape so when his fishing buddies walk over they go WTF! Betcha their holes are all round and kinda...boring.
The idea isn't to melt the whole hole, just the edges then extract the core.
Lock
Lock;
You might want to go look up "heat of conversion". It takes a zillion watts to convert 1lb of ice to 1lb of water. With a perfect heat sink all around your brain fart element, you might as well power it with beer; ie get 6 guys to pee on the ice in a circle. :lol: If you have ever tried pulling a block of ice out of a lake, it ain't easy. The auger is the way to go.
Just to quantify Gordo's point. It takes 333kJ to melt 1 kilo of ice if it's right at the conversion temperature of 0°C. 1 joule = 1 watt second, so melting that kilo takes 93wh, and assuming 75cm thick ice (about 2.5ft) that kilo ring of melted ice would be only about 3mm wide for a 15cm (6") diameter hole. Even if you could get that ice core out with a perfect cylinder, his battery pack could only cut 2 holes. Apparently those ice fisherman use lots of holes, since the electric one I saw claimed 45 holes for about the same size pack. That makes the auger is over 20 times more efficient than cutting by melting a 3mm ring.
Then there's the giant block of ice as a heat sink, so even if melting a ring was reasonable, the water would quickly refreeze behind it. To come close the auger method it would require a sub-millimeter wide ring to be instantly melted and the core ice cylinder extracted in that same instant for it to work.
From the video I saw, those motorized ice augers are impressively efficient tools perfect for the job.
Gordo
100 kW
John in CR said:Gordo said:Lock said:Actually I was thinking a diamond shape so when his fishing buddies walk over they go WTF! Betcha their holes are all round and kinda...boring.
The idea isn't to melt the whole hole, just the edges then extract the core.
Lock
Lock;
You might want to go look up "heat of conversion". It takes a zillion watts to convert 1lb of ice to 1lb of water. With a perfect heat sink all around your brain fart element, you might as well power it with beer; ie get 6 guys to pee on the ice in a circle. :lol: If you have ever tried pulling a block of ice out of a lake, it ain't easy. The auger is the way to go.
Just to quantify Gordo's point. It takes 333kJ to melt 1 kilo of ice if it's right at the conversion temperature of 0°C. 1 joule = 1 watt second, so melting that kilo takes 93wh, and assuming 75cm thick ice (about 2.5ft) that kilo ring of melted ice would be only about 3mm wide for a 15cm (6") diameter hole. Even if you could get that ice core out with a perfect cylinder, his battery pack could only cut 2 holes. Apparently those ice fisherman use lots of holes, since the electric one I saw claimed 45 holes for about the same size pack. That makes the auger is over 20 times more efficient than cutting by melting a 3mm ring.
Then there's the giant block of ice as a heat sink, so even if melting a ring was reasonable, the water would quickly refreeze behind it. To come close the auger method it would require a sub-millimeter wide ring to be instantly melted and the core ice cylinder extracted in that same instant for it to work.
From the video I saw, those motorized ice augers are impressively efficient tools perfect for the job.
My non-calculation post comes from experience. The last boat I built had a fish hold of 10' X 13' X 6'. The guy spraying the foam tried to convince me (as he had everyone else) that we needed an absolute minimum of 3" and 4" to 6" would give us great financial benefit in keeping our ice. I did the accurate calculation and found that with the measured temperature difference of the deck, hull sides and bottom my loss of conduction was the conversion of 13lbs of ice to water per 24 hours. MELTING ICE TAKES MANY WATTS. As we typically carried 2 tons of ice ($15 per ton) the financial benefit of more than 1" of foam was ZERO. The added benefit of being able to work in a 6' high space vs 5' 6" or less, is immeasurable.
Melting ice takes many times the power of cutting it. That is why I never understood the "Super Gopher"
http://www.b-29s-over-korea.com/lost_squadron/lost_squadron.html
John in CR
100 TW
Gordo,
Sounds like a serious boat for serious fishing. What kind of construction was it. I want to build some boats, though nothing so serious, but I might need to solicit some advice.
John
Sounds like a serious boat for serious fishing. What kind of construction was it. I want to build some boats, though nothing so serious, but I might need to solicit some advice.
John
Gordo
100 kW
John in CR said:
The boats I liked best were fibreglas. As long as you are always on the boat yourself. If you have other people running your boat, aluminum is the only material to use. My last 3 commercial boats were aluminum. You can hit something hard enough with fiberglas to break it without hurting yourself. If you hit a dock with an aluminum boat, you will get hurt before the boat. This makes the crew more careful. Aluminum is easier/quicker to modify than fiberglas. You just cut the part and weld it on. With fibreglas it takes longer and requires more thought to change a configuration. Most of the gear on a fibreglas boat ends up being aluminum bolted on anyway. You might as well make the hull out of aluminum. With very little practice, you can make good strong welds in aluminum. Much easier than steel to learn. I have had a 1lb spool gun for 35years, but just got a TIG last week. TIG is more like soldering and much easier to control on thin material. One of my friends welds al pie plates together to show control.
In CR you may have to make a choice on material by what is available at the best cost?
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