Shenzhen (ecrazyman) Controller Information

[oddjones]

>>risks a wan smile<<

Yeah - sorry, crummy photo - the bit highlighted is the green phase wire completely separated from the winding.

well... soldered up the green phase wire, and everything seems better - all phase connections now stop the wheel spinning backwards when shorted. Resistance across all phase wires now an equal 0.14 on my meter.

Gonna leave it for tonight - get me some more fuses(!) in the morning and run the tests again...

Guys - thanks for all your help - I feel like I might be on the home straight - couldn't have done it without your help!

 

[Tiberius]

Hi Oddjones,

Just reading back a bit and noticed you're in the UK. Whereabouts - I'm in Somerset?

I have two Bafang motors and one has just developed an intermittent Hall signal. If we have to get parts shipped maybe we can join up.
Ok, just crossed with your last post. Well done, sounds like you won't be needing that expensive shipping.

Nick

 

[oddjones]

Hi Oddjones,

Just reading back a bit and noticed you're in the UK. Whereabouts - I'm in Somerset?

I have two Bafang motors and one has just developed an intermittent Hall signal. If we have to get parts shipped maybe we can join up.
Ok, just crossed with your last post. Well done, sounds like you won't be needing that expensive shipping.

Nick

Sunny Liverpool mate, home of 50ft mechanical spiders - it's early days yet I guess - I may well need to take up your offer if the tests crap out again tomorrow - if there's one thing I've learned through this whole process it's check check and check again before you wire the thing up and I've had a couple of celebratory beers since I fixed the phase wire so I'm leaving it til the morning!

 

[docnjoj]

If my Halls go bad I'm gonna try that BEMF sensor board from Knuckles. No hassles and lose the Halls and their little teeny wires!
otherDoc

 

[gip_mad]

Wait oddjones! Now that you discovered the problem, how do you repair it? I hope you did a good job, but here are some suggestions:
If you are soldering for the first times, DON'T DO IT! Soldering seems easy, but there are a lot of variables that you can only learn in years of practice. A good solder job on that wire is FUNDAMENTAL. Don't reuse the old lead, put a good amount of new one and be sure that everyfing melts uniformly. Bad solder joints may break easily, and this time you may be not as luky as the before, and have the floating wire short with something.
Also, good isolation is a must. You should use shrinking tube to cover the exposed connections.
Next, remember to clean your job and make sure that pieces cannot fly away and get into the motor while spinning.

I hope that you can get your bike running very soon!

 

[oddjones]

Ah! that's more like it! - and the motor IS quiet!

(phase wire soldered, crimped and sheathed gip_mad, you'll be glad to know)

OK - so redid all the tests, came up with a setting which really seemed to work well - smooth, quiet, powerful, low current drain - all good.

Took it out for a run and it was completely different from first time - a pleasure to ride. Took it for about a mile and it was comfortably pulling me up hills and around my local park no problems.

On my way back home I took it up the steepest hill round here and it cut out - the lights went off on the throttle and I lost all power - if I flicked the power switch (between battery and controller) off and on I got power back but as soon as I put it under any load I lost power again....

I'm hoping this is a low voltage cut-out issue - (I have actually never charged my battery - I had a whole separate wiring issue with that which you guys have thankfully been spared!) - so I spent the afternoon finally figuring that one out and the battery is now quietly charging ready for another test tomorrow

 

[oddjones]

If my Halls go bad I'm gonna try that BEMF sensor board from Knuckles. No hassles and lose the Halls and their little teeny wires!
otherDoc

Link it up! - just tried a search on "BEMF sensor board" - but got nothing...

 

[gip_mad]

I'm glad you had it working! The LVC behavior is strange, but maybe your batteries are so dead thet you have to let them recover a bit... Never discharge them so much!

 

[docnjoj]

If my Halls go bad I'm gonna try that BEMF sensor board from Knuckles. No hassles and lose the Halls and their little teeny wires!
otherDoc

Link it up! - just tried a search on "BEMF sensor board" - but got nothing...

Try this and PM Knuckles!

otherDoc
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4464&p=94155#p94155

 

[oddjones]

OK - the battery took a good 4 hours of charge which tells me it was pretty kippered. After that it took me up hills no problems...

My fit-as-a-fiddle 16 year old road-biking son took it out and came back "impressed" - which is praise indeed. Am taking it to work tomorrow - which'll be the big test. By my cheapo cycle computer I reckon I'm doing about 18mph which is actually fairly OK - but it does lead me on to the next, inevitable question...

How do I make it go quicker?! I don't want to be screaming along - but I reckon about 25-30mph will do me grand for keeping up with traffic - is this something I can reasonably expect from my 36v 10ah battery (I only need a range of 5 miles as I can charge it up at work when I arrive) or do I need to get saving for a 48v battery?

Don't get me wrong - I'm hooked, it's just an inevitable part of my character to take anything and want to make it faster

 

[docnjoj]

Follow Dogmans advice re: 20 ah at 36 volts! U might want to go further than 5 miles!
otherDoc

 

[gip_mad]

I'm very happy for you! The first ride is always a big satisfaction, even more after all the troubles you got! If you have a Lithium battery... you can do nothing but buy a bigger one (more voltage). Well, you can put a 15$ PB battery in series, but you will trash the pb battery in short time. Also, you must charge them separately.
You can sell the old battery on ebay and get a new one!
Be sure to check that the controller can handle 48V anyway.

 

[docnjoj]

If U have a new Lithium 36/10, get another and // them! They are small!
otherDoc

 

[gip_mad]

If U have a new Lithium 36/10, get another and // them! They are small!
otherDoc

It will not increase speed to put batteries in parallel... Well, maybe, but only by 2-3%.

 

[oddjones]

If U have a new Lithium 36/10, get another and // them! They are small!
otherDoc

It will not increase speed to put batteries in parallel... Well, maybe, but only by 2-3%.

No - that would give me more range am I right?

But If I bought another 36/10 and put them in SERIES - would I then have a 72v 10a/h battery?

 

[gip_mad]

Exactly! BUT... You will also need a controller that can handle that voltage.

 

[docnjoj]

Definitely more power on hill at 36/10 //! 72 volts series is outa my league! Thats real speed! But speed costs money! Controller plus better brakes plus.......
otherDoc

 

[gip_mad]

He did speak about SPEED, not about money... :lol:

 

[oddjones]

Definitely more power on hill at 36/10 //! 72 volts series is outa my league! Thats real speed! But speed costs money! Controller plus better brakes plus.......
otherDoc

Heh - better put a shopping list together - In all seriousness - what am I looking at?

Disk brakes a necessity do you think?
Another battery ain't gonna be cheap
controller - infineon?
Will my existing motor handle it or do I need a bigger 'un?

- I'm sure there's a thread on this somewhere ... hint :wink: :wink:

 

[Knuckles]

What a "Lovely Bunch oF Coconuts" on this thread! :lol:

Sounds like "The Gang" helped you solve the motor problem.

Shame on Bafang selling you a broken motor.

I always test before I sell a motor to a client.

Anyway ... Jolly Good EVing Mate! 8)

 

[oddjones]

What a "Lovely Bunch oF Coconuts" on this thread! :lol:

Sounds like "The Gang" helped you solve the motor problem.

Shame on Bafang selling you a broken motor.

I always test before I sell a motor to a client.

Anyway ... Jolly Good EVing Mate! 8)

You're so right - and count yourself in the good coconuts - (unless you'd rather be a "good egg"?) - It's so nice when you find a forum of people who are as helpful as they are knowledgeable as they are enthusiastic - pats on backs all round lads - (oh - and will 72v kill my 36v Bafang?)

 

[gip_mad]

Heh - better put a shopping list together - In all seriousness - what am I looking at?
Disk brakes a necessity do you think?
Another battery ain't gonna be cheap
controller - infineon?
Will my existing motor handle it or do I need a bigger 'un?
- I'm sure there's a thread on this somewhere ... hint :wink: :wink:

Well... while the motor SHOULD handle the voltage, maybe the internal gears will have a hard time at these speeds. I have had no experience with this motor.
Disk brakes will be money good spent, but you should also be sure that you have a steel front fork (if the motor is frontal) because aluminium is too soft and can bent.
Obviously you will need a controller that can handle that voltage, and the high frequency of the motor so I guess the Infineon will do.

 

[dazzassj6]

Definitely more power on hill at 36/10 //! 72 volts series is outa my league! Thats real speed! But speed costs money! Controller plus better brakes plus.......
otherDoc

Heh - better put a shopping list together - In all seriousness - what am I looking at?

Disk brakes a necessity do you think?
Another battery ain't gonna be cheap
controller - infineon?
Will my existing motor handle it or do I need a bigger 'un?

- I'm sure there's a thread on this somewhere ... hint :wink: :wink:

im in a situation like you at the moment, im building a 60v from the standard 36/10 one. Adding an extra 24v, what i bought was:
1) a ping battery, but you might just want to upgrade to 48v, if you dont want to spend too much, but i got a 24v instead
2) then you need to get a controller, i prefer ecrazyman's one which is the cheapest one i found. He does LVC for you at your request.
3) buy some connectors and might need to solder some wires together that will fit with the new controller.
4) get a rack or some sort of battery mount if your upgrading from a stock ebike.
5) If you have battery level LEDs on your throttle and if you want to overvolt your bike, then you might need to unplug the wire that goes to those lights to prevent it from getting blown out. If it doesnt get blown out then it just be really bright and will not sure an accurate indicator of your battery level. Most throttles are 24v or 36v versions for standard stock ebikes, and the indicators takes like 5v normally, so if you overvolting then it might blow up.
6) When rigging 2 BMS batteries, then you may need a diode in between as indicated by Fletcher, but im still stuck on this stage right now so dont take my word for it. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1312 Scroll down to the last diagram
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6274 He discusses it here.
7) you definately need disc brakes, even my stock 36/10 setup gave me trouble to stop when i was only using the standard rear U-brake. Disc brake has a lot more stopping power
8) im pretty sure your bafang motor can handle higher voltage than 36v, bafang motors are not that easy to fry.

 

[Knuckles]

My Bad ... I run the Bafang at 72V (don't tell anybody ... keep it a secret). 8)

Lovin' every minute of it!

[youtube]QiF8md-w-zw[/youtube]

 

[solarbbq2003]

just going back to changing crystals/resonators ( I think was earlier in this thread), have noticed there are 2 pin and 3 pin resonators used ( ceramic type ), 3 pin have built in caps set up the oscillations, 2 pin type need caps in circuit with the resonator to set up the oscillations. Just wondering if any one playing with these knows if different picofarad value caps go with different frequency resonators, if there seems to be a problem with going to higher freq say 40mhz i'm wondering if the associated cap values might be an issue in getting the correct oscillations ( or maybe some chips just wont accept the higher frequencies)