Skateboard Wheels

chuttney1

100 W
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
243
Location
Los Angeles, CA
I have decided to start topic to gather ideas. My situation in life does not allow me to take up this task because I'm a broke college student at the moment. The other reason one would burn through a lot of money before getting something useful. The main purpose is whoever so wishes to take up the task of making these wheel for Eboards will have the necessary information to do so. I will be posting a bunch of information heavily in chemistry because success to these wheels is to have a good understanding of the chemistry involve. I highly suggest if anyone is friends with or knows a polymer chemist to work with them. Getting a polymer chemistry book helps.

Personally, I would rather make some wheels one set at a time to fine tune the process. The difficulty stems from sourcing chemicals and which one to use. I will only say this once if one thinks this is all smoke and mirrors, I am currently a student pursuing a degree in chemistry at California State University Long Beach. I do not talk much about it since I don't think its important to anyone, but only when its needed.
 
You might want to talk to AEND industries out of Huntington Beach, they have some of best fomulas.

[youtube]7y34fbwBvl0[/youtube]


I don't remember many people making wheels in their garage.

On Silverfish longboarding forum, there was a guy named Zak Matum (who now runs Venom) who attempted to make his own wheels/bushings in his garage.
But I remember him saying that it's a dangerous toxic process.

he's a really good skater also,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fOVXndyjAo

From what I can remember reading, the chemistry is pretty secretive, the formula belongs to the chemical companies.

I haven't run across any cheap Chinese wheels that can match the quality stuff coming out of AEND.
maybe one day they will.

Supposedly, the urethane use in skate wheels are some of the most advanced urethane out there.
 
I was thinking of talking to AEND, but I'm not sure if they are willing to sell a random person have a quart of the chemicals to make skate board wheels.
 
sk8norcal said:
From what I can remember reading, the chemistry is pretty secretive, the formula belongs to the chemical companies.

I haven't run across any cheap Chinese wheels that can match the quality stuff coming out of AEND.
maybe one day they will.

Supposedly, the urethane use in skate wheels are some of the most advanced urethane out there.

For sure its pretty much proprietary, to chemical companies, but to a chemists this stuff is really common. The formulation of the urethane wheel is definitely a secret. I searched up AEND and the company BASF came up and it seems BASF is a supplier for AEND for "PolyTHF". I assume this is one of the chemicals use in making skate board wheels.

link of webpage
http://www.intermediates.basf.com/chemicals/topstory/aend

Further searching brings me to a crucial document for making polyurethane wheels.
http://worldaccount.basf.com/wa/NAFTA~en_US/Catalog/ChemicalsNAFTA/doc4/BASF/PRD/30073177/.pdf?urn=urn:documentum:eCommerce_sol_EU:09007bb280020783.pdf
 
1st post.

I will jump fast and straight to polymer chemistry. But first the basics minus a bunch of reasons why.
Atoms make a bunch of bonds with other atoms. A bond is a sharing of electrons. They can do a single, double, or triple bond.

bonds.gif



Now on to polymer chemistry. The basis of polymer chemistry is organic chemistry or the study of carbon containing compounds. Diamond is an exception.

This is benzene, an organic molecule.
benzRep.GIF



Organic chemistry takes advantage of "functional groups" to make a bunch of new compounds. These are the functional groups.
functional-groups.jpg
 
2nd Post.

Now to the polymers. Take the creation of nylon 6,6. This reaction is showing adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine to make nylon 6,6. The main concept of polymers is chain initiation, propagation, and termination.

nylon08.gif


The whole process in pics.
nysyn01.gif

nysyn02.gif

nysyn03.gif


I would be happy to explain why a reaction like this can happy, but I would leave to the experts. There are many websites which this knowledge is open to.

The full reaction on this website.
http://pslc.ws/macrog/nysyn.htm

Links to website on basics of polymers.
http://chemed.chem.purdue.edu/genchem/topicreview/bp/1polymer/reactions.html
http://www2.chemistry.msu.edu/faculty/reusch/VirtTxtJml/polymers.htm
http://authors.library.caltech.edu/25034/30/BPOCchapter29.pdf
 
Interesting topic. I work in the casting polyurethane industry and will try and simplify a couple things real quick. First, polyurethanes are a very diverse group of materials easily attained for making parts. They range from extremely soft/flexible formulations all the way up to hard, rigid plastics. Polyurethane is also formulated into adhesives, foams, tires, gels, and on and on...

Polyurethane skateboard wheels are made from what are termed "hot pour" pre-polymers; meaning the raw materials need to be heated to pretty high temps (like 200F/93C) to begin the curing reaction. This typically puts it out of reach for your average garage DIY/Hobbyist. You need proper ovens, ventilation, and knowledge of the materials to safely work with them.

The systems that are sold as two-component A/B systems for casting into molds at room temperature (the kind of stuff I deal in) are much easier to process and available in many varieties of physical properties and Durometers. The difference is; for the same hardness (Durometer) when comparing a 83A Durometer Hot-Pour urethane to a 83A Room Temperature processed urethane, a Hot-Pour urethane has tremendously higher physical properties in abrasion resistance, tear resistance, and rebound (bounce/energy return) compared to the room-temp cured systems.

That's a very simplified explanation but it's the most easily explained. I get asked almost weekly by people wanting to cast their own skateboard wheels and while you can prototype to a certain degree with the range of 2-part, hand-castable polyurethanes, I am very honest about the fact they will wear out much quicker and not exhibit the same energy retention as the mass produced wheels made with hot-pour systems. Truck bushings or even rub rails are actually great candidates for the hand-castable urethanes. This is actually done quite a bit, and not just for skateboards; bikes, snowboards, wakeboards, kayaks, auto bushings, etc... If you are curious, you can see some videos on the subject of mold making and casting these materials: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL_Aij55CbyPn970pKV9bHfK-HXnIGzxIs
 
smooth-on.com has one in particular that I want to test:
http://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/PMC-780_Dry-Wet.pdf

the rebound isn't given but from what I hear a rebound test is simple and involves dropping a ball on a portion of it and seeing at what percentage it rebounds to. I hear a typical good skateboard wheel will have maybe a 65 rebound so 65% of the height the ball is dropped from it will return to.
Abrasion resistance isn't given either but I hear it's generally "good".

and continuing to search:
http://www.forschpolymer.com/images/URS2686.pdf

http://forschpolymer.com/Products.html

this last one looks good and doesnt seem overly difficult to do in your ...garage. vacuum chambers are pretty cheap and the temps needed aren't hard to get to and even a rubber mold will have no problem getting to the temps.
 
There is an interesting video on sharkweel topic, where the developer explain the prototyping phase is easier with 3d printer for the mold.

But go with industrial for polyurethane seems best versus homemade.
 
Ridiculously cool thread! Tons of good info and i especially appreciate pylonflyer's simplified description which makes sense to me.

200F doesn't actually seem that hot considering... I know it's all in the secret formula, but bushings and such seem like a great one to be able to make in the garage. I'll leave the wheels to the experts, but keep checking in on this! Thanks chuttney!
 
That's actually me doing the interview with David. It's a very small world sometimes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nefXkOP-wh0

And just to clarify, 3D printed parts are typically used as the "pattern" or "master" to then make silicone molds for casting urethane into (and sometimes rigid urethane or epoxy tools). What's great about have 3D printed parts available is that you can print a part in rigid PLA (because maybe that's all you can print), make a mold, and then cast a flexible urethane out of the mold to make durable parts.
 
I kind of know the step involve to make skateboard wheels. The other few parts if figuring out ratio of ingredients and curing in a controlled environment.

The more information, the merrier.
 
From what I understand the hub/core is urethane also, created good bonding with the soft urethane. (vs plastic hubs)
and the "interlock" helps also.

elecricfly%2B107mmDriveHub.jpg


chuttney,
do you have something specific in mind that your are trying to make?

Capture.JPG



Hummina Shadeeba said:
the rebound isn't given but from what I hear a rebound test is simple and involves dropping a ball on a portion of it and seeing at what percentage it rebounds to. I hear a typical good skateboard wheel will have maybe a 65 rebound so 65% of the height the ball is dropped from it will return to.

Back around 2000 (i think), there wasn't much choice in longboard wheels, pretty much kryptonics. And then ABEC11 flashbacks came out, it was a game changer,made by AEND designed by Chris Chaput. A lot of people were just amazed at how much rebound it has.
 
Pylonflyer said:
That's actually me doing the interview with David. It's a very small world sometimes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nefXkOP-wh0

And just to clarify, 3D printed parts are typically used as the "pattern" or "master" to then make silicone molds for casting urethane into (and sometimes rigid urethane or epoxy tools). What's great about have 3D printed parts available is that you can print a part in rigid PLA (because maybe that's all you can print), make a mold, and then cast a flexible urethane out of the mold to make durable parts.


I was surprised to read that, I see it for prototyping? but for production also? maybe only good for small runs?
the guy has a metal mold on his desk..

all the videos I have seen for wheel production, the molds are metal.
which I heard is why making a new wheel is an expensive investment.

I hear some metal molds are not owned by the designer, the manufacturer put up the cost of making it, and "rent" the mold to to various other skate wheel companies


here's another wheel making video,
[youtube]T7Rt8tsUSDU[/youtube]
 
sk8norcal said:
chuttney,
do you have something specific in mind that your are trying to make?

The ability to cast urethane onto the "cylindrical sleeve", the metal part over the can of the outrunner, for hub motors; better centering of the drive gear onto urethane wheel and just regular skateboard wheels for longboarders.

The pictures torqueboards' shows of his hub motors of the urethane is of the interest. While for the methods he currently uses to get the urethane on to the motors are good to make a awesome product, even though I have not bought from him. Having to core out a wheel for a hub motor is loosing good urethane and I want to keep as much of that urethane as I can like a regular skateboard wheel.

I'm getting a sense here good wheels need high rebound. I will definitely try to exceed the 65% rebound Hummina Shadeeba spoke of.
Personally I would want a wheel for high speed traction and good sliding properties such if I was going 40 mph downhill I could slide into a corner at 25-30 mph maintaining a high level of stability like drifting a car around a corner. I realize this is not possible for hairpin curves.


I found more information regarding wheel hardness, polyurethane molecular weight and ratio of chemicals to mix to achieve hardness level
http://prodpreview.chemturaweb.com/deployedfiles/ChemturaV8/AdipreneVibrathane/AdipreneVibrathane-en-US/Library/Polyurethanes%20Manuscript.pdf
http://www.lyondellbasell.com/techlit/techlit/2268.PDF
 
As of right now, I have come to a conclusion on chemicals of the wheels.
The polyurethane, specifically hot pour castable polyurethane eslatomer consist of a main 3 part mix. The polyol, diisocynate, and diol or diamine. From reading, I decided to go with polytetrahydrofuran (polyTHF) as the polyol and [strike]toluene diisocyanate (TDI)[/strike] as the diisocynate. The diol/diamine I still have to figure out and any other ingredient. I think manufacturers use 1,4-butanediol to make connection with each polyurethane chain in the wheel.


I must ammend the stuff I will be using as of the last post I made. Methylene diphenyl diisocyanate will be the diisocyanate
 
I was surprised to read that, I see it for prototyping? but for production also? maybe only good for small runs?
the guy has a metal mold on his desk..

Yes but the métal mold is here tu illustrate the difference between cost of prototyping before and after the arrivals of 3D printer.
 
sk8norcal said:
From what I understand the hub/core is urethane also, created good bonding with the soft urethane. (vs plastic hubs)
and the "interlock" helps also.

elecricfly%2B107mmDriveHub.jpg


chuttney,
do you have something specific in mind that your are trying to make?

Capture.JPG



Hummina Shadeeba said:
the rebound isn't given but from what I hear a rebound test is simple and involves dropping a ball on a portion of it and seeing at what percentage it rebounds to. I hear a typical good skateboard wheel will have maybe a 65 rebound so 65% of the height the ball is dropped from it will return to.

Back around 2000 (i think), there wasn't much choice in longboard wheels, pretty much kryptonics. And then ABEC11 flashbacks came out, it was a game changer,made by AEND designed by Chris Chaput. A lot of people were just amazed at how much rebound it has.


what are those!!

Hubmotors? What the hell is Jim Carey doing with those strange hubmotors? What's the white material? They look like they added fins in the white to give airflow. Cool but what about rocks. They even look 3D printed.

I talked to a California wheel manufacturer today forget which. They don't sell the liquids to pour but only done wheels. They were willing to do small runs of whatever but more so what I wanted to hear was that he thought using a hard polyurethane can make a good mold. He explained it's all about having a good plug or pattern or whatever you want to call the part you use to make the mold. But at a point beyond being round it becomes esthetics and while aluminum is better, for prototypes rubber is pretty good. A good 3D print Would do for a pattern and adding some product that covers the lines and maybe some polishing.
You can get rubber at smooth-on.com. Silicone molds are much easier to use but they don't sell a high Duro so maybe only polyurethane is available in the higher duro.
If u get a vacuum chamber make sure it hits at least 29 inches of mercury, all of a sudden a lot of liquid rubbers and resins, even at different viscosity, will degass around there. They blow up and muffin top then collapse. Some things, including polyurethane I think, you don't want to over degass as it will start sucking out weird poison gasses. alot of the vacuum pumps and chambers sold are used for making distilled marijuana. What they do exactly I don't know but they don't need to get to 29 inches of mercury and while pumps are advertised to get to 29.9 even they don't get there but people are still happy cause their weed is still sucked enough. I didn't get enough suck and I wasn't happy and had two get two strong 2 stage pumps and daisy chain them. And you have to get to such a vacuum at a good rate depending on the "pot life" of the liquid rubber or resin your using or things will set-up (harden) before you want or before its fully degassed.

Most casting places will sell or advise using a pressure pot instead of a vacuum To be used on any of the liquid rubbers or resins they sell. How bubbles can get squeezed at 60psi until they somehow disappear when the rubber or resin has cured, even in a soft duro, I don't understand, but none-the-less that's how it's typically done.
If u do get a vacuum and want to see how much suck you truly have, despite what the gauge may say, you can test by using water and a thermometer and Google maps. Depending on your elevation you will be able to boil water at a certain temp if you are at a certain vacuum pressure. For me at 360ft above sea level I think it was 82 degree water that will boil if under 29inches of mercury vacuum. Except when u do this you first must degass the water u use as it'll look like its boiling regardless, and only after you vacuumed it for at least half an hour will it stop bubbling from contained gasses and then it's good for the test. But then when you put this water back under the vac and it starts to bubble because it is truly boiling, the vacuum pressure is released by the gass released. I'm still not sure exactly what I'm getting to but the gauge says 29.5 and I have only found one resin I can't suck till it muffins then breaks.
And if u make a mold ur going to stick I the vacuum chamber it must have been a mold that was made with rubber that had been degassed itself or you can let the mold set in a pressure pot (strangely) or it will later expand and the I have deviations in the casting. Pinholes from the mold bulging.
This is a long explaination and largely just about the vacuum pot and distancing from what's involved in casting wheels..bu t mold making and casting is fun and I've been into it for a couple months and it's rare anyone asks.
 
Just a note on pressure vs vacuum during casting.... Vacuum actually extracts the air from the material. Pressure simply squeezes the bubble down to a point it's not visible anymore, but it doesn't make it disappear. It's still there, trapped, and if you take it out of the pressure before it's cured the bubble can rebound and cause stress or fractures in the cured part. In flexible materials this is really bad, especially silicone molds, but if you are casting rigid materials you can get away with it because it resists the bubble rebound more. If you only have one piece of equipment, a good vacuum pump and chamber is what you want. Pressure is more useful if you are casting into closed molds with a lot of internal geometry that can trap air bubbles (like a corner) and you want the material to be forced into those areas. Understand that when you mix these materials, you inherently stir in so much air that it looks more like carbonated soda and the vacuum will pull all of that out. Note too, that you probably want a vacuum pump capable of at least 5-6 CFM and a dual stage pump. A single stage pump typically takes too long or is simply too weak.

I would also add one more note of caution, you NEVER EVER put these materials in a home/kitchen oven to process these materials. You need a dedicated parts oven with controlled thermostats and proper ventilation.
 
So I contacted BASF to get some polyTHF 2000 Molecular Weight, but haven't got a response back after giving them my address and country.
 
A few minutes ago I came across northstarpolymers.com after searching "high rebound urethane" and learned they are a raw materials supplier for polyurethane. I have found useful information and totally ready to hit this place up in hopes of getting urethane. I assume the Bashore Rebound test is what the industry uses more of. Reading through this list like Bashore Reboud for this type of product they have is at 68% while typical value is 63%. Catalyst type is amine linkages meaning bonds to -NH- between polymer chains. Prepolymer temperature and mold temperature are 180 - 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Curing agent temperature 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Pot life 2.5 to 3.0 minutes... :!: I am totally out to do this project. A 2.5 to 3 minute pot life too short for my hand mixing needs which means use of equipment that can extrude material already mix into mold without added air.

From this http://www.northstarpolymers.com/NorthstarPolymers/Data Sheets/High_Performance/MGB-A80AQ.htm This is what I am talking about...

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