solder that sticks to anything (any metal )?

emaayan

emaayan

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my attempts to use 40/60 solder for tabbing batteries has not gone well, in my search for a better one, i asked ebike.ca about it, and he said briefly "acid flux" he didn't specify which one, only that he got it 15 years ago, so i started looking around and found this: http://www.micromark.com/Stay-Brite-Silver-Solder-and-Flux-1and2-oz-Each,7556.html , while it does sound promising it is still lead free, which i understand the exact opposite of what i'm looking for, on the other hand it says it melts on low temps.

i wanna master this on isolated cell, before i'll the real thing.
 
Stay Brite is the premium solder that solders all metals (including stainless steel and cast iron). except aluminum. It flows freely and has over twice the tensile strength of regular solder. Melts and flows at only 430 degrees F
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Ahh ! ..all metals ..except aluminium ! ... many cell tabs are Al.
....and 430F is not a low temperature !
but well worth a try none the less.

The fingers said:
The local electronics store sells conductive wire glue as a soldering substitute. Don't remember the brand or how well it works though. :?
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If connecting cells , i would want to do some comparative resistance tests before i went too far with "conductive glue"
If you use acid flux ( common for plumbers) be sure to clean off ALL residue after.
 
someone posted resistance comparison here before, they were not impressed, so i wouldn't wanna embark on a trial an error stuff.
the questions is, i don't even know where can i get one, does it say it's acid on them, what about the solder itself, so far, i was aware that solder was mainly divided by lead composition and thickness, i assumed it's only sticks to copper.
 
i found that silver solder sticks to different metals better.

However have you considered maybe making a hole in the tab and bolting a tab you can solder or crimp onto it saves heating up the cell tab and should still conduct very well if you have a large enough area compressing the tab.
 
bolt it to where?
 
I used some solder paste called "Solder-it" to solder some tabs on a Nanotech pack I fixed recently.
http://www.solder-it.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=89

Mine was old and I didn't really get any paste out of it, but I got yellow flux to come out and that was all it took to break the oxidation layer and allow regular solder to stick. I used a big iron too, it takes a lot to get everything up to temp.
 
A good product for soldering aluminum and all kinds of dissimilar metals is Alsolder 500. The solder is a special formulation, but the flux seems to be the key in my little bit of experience. I soldered some tabs in the lab recently as a test, and the joints were stronger than the tabs of the cells. Joints seemed good, but you'll definitely want to clean off the flux after soldering.
 
What about bolting your tabs?
2013-09-05%2005.22.07.jpg


2013-09-05%2005.22.16.jpg
 
wireglue.jpg


The carbon epoxy is cheaper than the silver, can't say which works better but you can guess which one should. Neither is supposed to be that strong, but you can put another layer of regular epoxy right over it to not only insulate but to brace it. I'd say it might be good for little lights, but for all the juice it'll take to run your bike?

http://www.etsy.com/listing/70175837/wire-glue-electrically-conductive-glue?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_listing_promoted&utm_campaign=supplies_low&gclid=CILt2IPCs7kCFbF_QgodXV4AJA

http://www.amazon.com/AA-DUCT-Electrically-Conductive-Silver-Adhesive/dp/B00EPYCMAS/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1378358641&sr=1-6
 
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