Some custom work going on in the "Matt-Cave" :~)

Hey, thanks for the advice! :) I will surely remember those things. However, I already ordered new rotors. They are, indeed, slotted rotors. I also ordered ceramic pads. Man, this stuff is not very expensive if you shop around.

I have also merely scuffed up the rotors to remove the glaze. This works great for about 100 miles (which is alot for me). But, I wanted to make sure this thing is as good as I can make it.

Thanks for the info, Man!

Matt
 
recumpence said:
I also ordered ceramic pads. Man, this stuff is not very expensive if you shop around.
Click to expand...

Matt would you be so kind to link us up if possible ? IIRC your using Avid brakes? Wouldn't mind
some ceramic pads for the front of my bike having to use the small rotor do to the fork rocker pivot
preventing larger rotor fitment the disk gets a lil toasty.

Cheers ...

KiM
 
recumpence said:
They are actually Hope 4 piston calipers. :)

I ordered them through e-Bay.

Matt
Click to expand...

Ahhh...kk... i just checked ebay and found some for the Avids too :) Thankz Matt

KiM
 
Matt,

Great job on a uber clean trike!

When is the Auction?

Regards,
Mike
 
Oh you haven't heard Mike? Matts raffling the trike tickets are $US20 :mrgreen:

:idea: Seriously i wonder how a raffle would go? i have seen luxury car raffles where tickets are
a hundred or more dollars with a limited # of tickets available...like 1 or 2 thousand.
Would a Matt Shumaker ball tearing tire shredding trike attract enough ticket buyers
i wonder...how many would purchase a ticket for $20 for a chance to win this beauty?
would only take 500 tickets sales to cover the 10k asking price
raffle could be drawn live over the internet via webcam...food for thought :?: ...or not... :!:

KiM
 
recumpence said:
Lastly, I need drilled rotors. These solid rotors ahve glazed over. They are getting grabby and vibrating. So, I will order some drilled 203s to replace these with.
Click to expand...

Used to work in a foundry that cast vented and cross drilled rotors for go karts (cool process but not relevant) http://www.dpeng.com.au/cat/index.cgi/shopfront/view_by_category?category_id=15850. I think with the speeds your trike is doing, you need to start looking at these, depending on how hard they would be to adapt.
 
I would think if he were donating to Charity that a raffle would GO AWESOME!!!

In this world and economy I think an auction would go better for Matts warez than any other form, this way those aircraft guys with money burning holes in their pockets could out bid one another for a piece of yellow history and I'll bet he could collect better than 20K which (though it's a long thread) I think he was initially in the 12K range (I'm sure that came up, this was alot of work and alot of parts).

Sadly... an auction places me out of the running most likely, but heck... if Matt can auction off for a 100% profit margin or beter, it just means cooler stuff from the Matt Cave much faster and also probably for Matt... a much happier wife = )_

-Mike
 
The first complete RC helicopter I manufactured was auctioned off. We brought in more than the cost of the heli in that auction. I am open to anything. Auctions are a funky thing to handle, though. :)

I need to debug everything first, anyway.

Matt
 
UPDATE........

I have been swamped filling orders and doing other work for my day job. So, I have not done anything with the trike in a while. So, here is where it is at;

The last time I drove it, I blew another controller. This one was not an arming issue, it was a downright overamping problem. That was not a surprise considering I was pulling 400 amps per controller when it happened. I decided to take a brake from this thing to figure a few things out. Beyond the blown controllers, this thing is just too freakin explosive. I mean, it really is hard to drive. To that end, I came up with what I think is the best solution-------

I am rewiring the motors to Wye rather than the Delta configuration they are currently at.

This will do a few things;

#1 It will reduce the freakin "I am going to die!" explosiveness.
#2 This will double the impedence the controllers are seeing, thus drastically increasing reliability.
#3 It will drop the RPM, thus reducing friction losses and increasing efficiency.
#4 It will drop the motor heat.
#5 It will quiet the whole system down.

The downside is less total power. But, the torque will actually nearly double per watt while reducing the RPM the same amount. Less total power may be a good thing. I mean, this thing is truely hard to drive with this much punch. It is easy to just say "Use less throttle". However, that is easier said than done. Any time the throttle is moved, even the tiniest bit, the tire just blows loose and smokes. While this looks cool and is impressive, it makes for a hairy and very dangerous ride. A friend of mine who weighs 150 pounds (40 pounds less than me) drove it and it was just mindbending to see the accelleration. Wye should just take off the edge and leave it merely brutal, rather than freaking INSANE to drive.

I am nearly finished with the changes. I will keep you posted.

Matt
 
Matt,

Are you going to regear, or just accept the lower top speed?

You may want to consider using a Delta Wye switch. I understand what you mean about throttle sensitivity. On my 3220 Mountain bike, I am currently geared for 31 MPH in Delta, and it is amazing. On demand wheelies at anything under 22 MPH. However it makes running at slow speeds on trails too touchy. I switch to Y and top speed is down to 18 MPH and the throttle becomes a lot less touchy. It will still wheelie, but is way more controllable.
 
Oops, sorry, I edited my post and accidentally removed that part. :)

Yes, I am going from 62 tooth rear ring to a 40 tooth. That should bring me to about 42mph top speed. This thing should actually have about the same torque at the rear wheel as before (maybe more), but with less insanity and stupidly nuts response.

Matt
 
Hey Mitch,

Yes, I love Hope stuff. I am running Hope 4 piston calipers right now. :)

The 6 piston caliper is not reverseable to use on my left front wheel. That is why I went with the 4 piston calipers. They are symetrical in style and mount, so they work on right and left sides. Also, the vented rotor is thinker and only works with their large twin piston caliper. So, yes, I did think about both those goodies.

I appreciate the post, though. It is always good to see people thinking about this stuff for other people's projects.

Matt
 
Have you come up with a way to prevent your feet from contacting the ground? (A real bummer at 30+ mph). When I first built my trike it was not a problem, but as complacency has set in, I've had it happen a couple of times. The first time, it gimped me up a bit, but I just told myself that I'd pay more attention (right). I've been on crutches for over a week since the last time it happened. I have pedals and shoes that clip, but I hate the shoes. They are totally inappropriate for walking through the woods, etc. And I don't want to have to change shoes every time I get off the trike. Given your fabrication skills, I thought I'd check to see if you've given it any thought.
 
I have pedals and shoes that clip, but I hate the shoes. They are totally inappropriate for walking through the woods, etc. And I don't want to have to change shoes every time I get off the trike.
Click to expand...
A bit off topic for Matt's build thread, but I did read somewhere that the most common accident on a tadpole trike is having a foot come off the pedal and then breaking a leg when the axle hits it.

My first thought is, just get some shoes that are comfortable. But another solution is to use the basic straps, which only cost about $5 for a pair. Most platform pedals have the slots for the straps, and then you can wear any shoes you want.

I won't even get on my trike without my clipless shoes.
 
Damnit! I get all excited when i get email notification of a reply to this thread....^^^ disappointed again...^^^ LoL.... Maaaaatt!?! Bat-cave update pleeeeease SiR!!! preferably with videosbut still pictures will do buddy :mrgreen: :D

KiM
 
AussieJester said:
Damnit! I get all excited when i get email notification of a reply to this thread....^^^ disappointed again...^^^ LoL.... Maaaaatt!?! Bat-cave update pleeeeease SiR!!! preferably with videosbut still pictures will do buddy :mrgreen: :D

KiM
Click to expand...

here here....preferably some on bike vids....so we can see that sideways ness etc etc, tape over the mic so the wind dont stuff up the sound of those babys screaming. When i get mine going ill take that many vids of me doing stupid shit just so you can get a daily fix of rc power jester.....I been looking at a stinky bit newer than D's to mangle up, just wanna get these drives here first before i make any quick decisions on a new frame platform.

Rodger
 
Yeeeees!!! I am looking forward to seeing a couple of Astros on a
higher end downhill bike! Make sure theres plenty of video Rodgah
complete with "total disregard" for rear tire abuse! :mrgreen:

I really wish the master would get onboard with a downhill mountain
bike build something over the top like the yellow trike would make
me grinz & druel alot :lol: Something that getz from 0-80clicks
on the back wheel at the drop of a hat slamming through multispeed
box like a F1 car as it does! druuuuel thinking aboutz it. :lol: :mrgreen:

KiM
 
Rodger,

Your order will begin shipping this coming week. I have one drive finished and the other is being assembled. It will arrive in several boxes. I will email you the customs numbers for tracking as they ship. :)

Matt
 
hahaha your just trying to get out of doing more videos aren't you Matt? Thanks for the update though, the 2nd drive owner is getting a bit restless, this news should shut him up.

Kim...there shall definitly be tyre frying and sky cam, I was going to make my own floater frame but i think end of the day i could just use a known configuration to get better results, an to be honest jet8743's downhiller was all the inspiration I needed.

Rodger
 
I actually haven't had time to get the final wiring finished from converting the trike to Wye termination. I have been too busy machining parts for orders (yours being on the front burner).

The status is;

One drive completely finished.
All parts machined and anodized for drive #2.
Drive #2 motors in stock ready to be mounted to the drive.
All controllers in stock, ready to be programmed.
Freewheels and sprockets in stock.
All frame mount clamps in stock, though not anodized. I can send them bare aluminum, or send them out for anodizing.

I am about 90% finished with everything.

I will begin shipping boxes Tuesday or Wednesday.

Matt
 
ahhh the old....when a passion becomes a chore.....problem.

raw un-anodized is fine for both drives clamps sets Matt. Now to wait for HobbyCity hahaha.....atleast that will give me time to mount them and mouth motor sounds to myself while sittin on the bike :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Rodger

By the way, do you notice that there is very little response in the form of forum "builds" and youtube videos compared to the amount of product that goes out your doorway. Maybe they are just too busy burning rubber to stop and post :lol: .
 
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