Something is Brewing in Danny's Lab...

active cooling?





yer a tease!
 
Too easy,

You guys got it in one!

Ok, as much as i want to drag it out, here are the beans :mrgreen:

Water Cooled 80100 1.jpg

Water Cooled 80100 2.jpg

Water Cooled 80100 3.jpg

Water Cooled 80100 5.jpg

Water Cooled 80100 6.jpg

Water Cooled 80100 4.jpg

Definitely sacrificing copper area, but I am sad when I have to slow down because my motor is too hot :cry:

Lower peak power but higher constant power is what I am shooting for with this one.

Hoping to get 11 turns 14awg (from memory, i think...) LRK on there tomorrow night...

BM-3-LRK%20Star.jpg

D
 
I wonder if or how much you will gain from having the motor water cooled. Since you are loosing a bit of copper area but having higher heat transfer capacity you might push the motor a bit more. I am surprised how little current/power this motor actually handles without proper cooling continuously.

Looking forward to see what you can get out of it, good work so far :)
 
Thanks Ratking.

Appreciate the words of encouragement. I am wondering if all this effort is worth it. Looking forward to getting some figures on continuous power handling at some point, we shall see... (quietly confident though :lol: )

Forgot about the halls. Got some slots drilled in the stator for natural timing.

Water Cooled 80100 8.jpg

Last night I got the first phase on. 11 turns of 13awg. I could have got 12 or maybe even 13 turns (actually, I am not that patient!) but don't what to reduce my KV that much. The thing about the LRK wind is there is heaps of room for winding as it only uses every second tooth. I think even with the little water tubes in there, there is not much sacrificing of copper fill.

This thing is shaping up far from optimal, but for proof of concept, It should be sufficient :lol: Lots of room for improvement/refinement though...

D
 
How many grams copper will you get on the stator compared to the stock motor?
I have seen some crazy good winds where the rewound copper mass is significantly more than the stock.

I am thinking if you can get about the same amount of copper onto the stator as stock, and also have cooling, it should be a nice improvement.
Just speculating here :)
 
Hey Wheazel,

I am not sure what the stock copper weight is nor the weight of the copper I am putting on. I have a stock stator I could weigh and possibly work it out, but honestly, I would prefer to use that time getting it finished.

But at a guess, I would say it has less than the stock wind, by a fair bit, maybe 20%

With that being said, once I pot the whole thing in an epoxy and copper powder mix, I am confident I can extract a lot of heat and therefore significantly increase actual/usable continuous power.

And, I have no idea how I am effecting efficiency, and all the other things that are changing for better or worse. This is a build it and see what you end up with approach! If I can achieve 3kw continuous power at the rear wheel, I will be super happy.

One of the benefits is it will be a sealed motor (at the expense of the complexity of radiators and pumps).

D
 
Really looking forward to learn more about your results.
Here is an example of what I mentioned earlier.
Thud rewound a similar motor.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=20618

And the juicy stats from the first post:
parameters------------Stock-------rewind
copper cross section--18.9--------25.0
R (mOhms)-------------30.1--------13.5
Delta R ----------------20.1--------9.0
WYE R------------------60.2--------27.0
COPPER GRAMS-------254.5------357.7

Notice the copper mass difference.
 
140% increase in copper fill ain't shabby!

Maybe Thud could chime in on how he measured the copper weight?

I am thinking it would be good to get a ball park figure before i progress further. Maybe I need to start the wind again and go for more fill...

On another note, what would be the best way to determine if i have a short between windings? Measuring the resistance? The length of copper was about 3.5 meters before I wound it. I guess I could measure the resistance of a piece that long and if I don't have a short, the winding should measure the same?? Only thing is, I am not sure my cheap DMM is accurate enough for that.

Is my thinking accurate here? Or is there a better way?

D
 
hmm..my math makes it a 40% increase :mrgreen:

the #s for copper weight are straight off of "Motor calculator".

the best way to make certain your not pulling a short in a winding:
Make the wire your winding with "live"

I hook my continuity meter to one end of the magnet wire,(scrape off the insulation) & the other end to the stator (I use a magnet to hold it to a clean spot on the stator.

if I pull too hard or chaff something, it will sound the tone & I know I have a problem.
 
40% indeed! :oops:

I have been using that handy trick of yours and it works a treat! I am sure I don't have a short to the stator but concerned I might between the windings... I would not normally care so much and just go with it but this stator will be potted so I only have one shot at it!

Will check out "Motor calculator". Cheers.

D
 
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