stuff
- Thread starter Hummina Shadeeba
- Start date
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
All was going fine on 4s and then a continuous beep and no throttle. The beep would continue while the board rolled and stop when the board would stop. If i push it with my feet the noise would go as long as the board moved, but it wouldnt work with the transmitter Off and on again would get it going again.
Normally, probably becausr i havent adjusted anything, the brakes sucked, but then occassionally id push forward and the brakes would be very strong and send me off the board.
Its a hobbywing 150 which i didnt adjust at all, tacon 160 mounted in-line with no gearing on 85mm wheel
And now ive got bandaids and a broken transmitter and am freaked to go too fast fearing it might lock up the brakes on me
Normally, probably becausr i havent adjusted anything, the brakes sucked, but then occassionally id push forward and the brakes would be very strong and send me off the board.
Its a hobbywing 150 which i didnt adjust at all, tacon 160 mounted in-line with no gearing on 85mm wheel
And now ive got bandaids and a broken transmitter and am freaked to go too fast fearing it might lock up the brakes on me
psychotiller
10 kW
Any chance your motor wires are phasing out? Here are the things that I've dealt with that sound similar:
1) On my friends board, if he cuts power and tries to push after a minute or so his brakes activate. (mamba monster/SK3 motor) he has never sorted this out.
2) My pintail had a loose weld on a motor wire that would phase out and randomly apply my brakes. (This actually burned up an ESC)
3) Using an ebay controller ,with loose fitting batteries, I lost my signal activating my brakes momentarily. Just enough to throw me over the nose of the board.
Check all of these scenarios and dont ride your board until you sort it out. Doesn't sound safe.
Try a different ESC. Try a different Remote. Hook everything up to a benched motor.
Wear a helmet!
1) On my friends board, if he cuts power and tries to push after a minute or so his brakes activate. (mamba monster/SK3 motor) he has never sorted this out.
2) My pintail had a loose weld on a motor wire that would phase out and randomly apply my brakes. (This actually burned up an ESC)
3) Using an ebay controller ,with loose fitting batteries, I lost my signal activating my brakes momentarily. Just enough to throw me over the nose of the board.
Check all of these scenarios and dont ride your board until you sort it out. Doesn't sound safe.
Try a different ESC. Try a different Remote. Hook everything up to a benched motor.
Wear a helmet!
torqueboards
1 MW
Try re-flashing. I had the brakes issue trying to kick and brakes would end up locking.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
the nunchuck tread is a monster at this point is there somewhere to get instructions on actually setting it up because I plugged everything in with the HW150 esc and 4s and it seems to not be receiving or sending.
Theres a constant green and red light on the receiver and the esc isn't giving the green light and beep responses i got with the 23$ HK remote and receiver when calibrating mid point, brake and throttle limit.
Theres a constant green and red light on the receiver and the esc isn't giving the green light and beep responses i got with the 23$ HK remote and receiver when calibrating mid point, brake and throttle limit.
psychotiller
10 kW
It should just fire right up. Is your ESC messed up?
torqueboards
1 MW
You have the Nunchuck Receiver plugged into the Red Nunchucky? Your ESC Signal wire plugged into the 3 pin? You may have to sync your nunchuck with the nunchuck receiver.
Also set your neutral point for the joystick. turn on the board -> Hold C -> turn on the nunchuck while holding C. Your motors should spin within 4-5 seconds. Let the motors spin and then turn off the board + wait for nunchuck to turn off. Turn on the board -> turn on the nunchuck. Your neutral point should now be set for your nunchuck.
The neutral point for the Nunchuck is different for every controller. Wii specifically sets the neutral point on start up. If you don't set the neutral point, your nunchuck will act up and it won't truly know where the neutral point is. You should only have to do this once.
Does your RC controller work with your ESC?
Also set your neutral point for the joystick. turn on the board -> Hold C -> turn on the nunchuck while holding C. Your motors should spin within 4-5 seconds. Let the motors spin and then turn off the board + wait for nunchuck to turn off. Turn on the board -> turn on the nunchuck. Your neutral point should now be set for your nunchuck.
The neutral point for the Nunchuck is different for every controller. Wii specifically sets the neutral point on start up. If you don't set the neutral point, your nunchuck will act up and it won't truly know where the neutral point is. You should only have to do this once.
Does your RC controller work with your ESC?
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
i'll try this all tomorrow thanks for writing. I'm at techshop trying to make a pressure fit motor mount! just too small to fit and then hot and cold and slide it together and wait for the temp to balance. supposed to be pretty strong. beats welding.
beto_pty
1 kW
The how 150 should immediately detect the wiiceiver.....
Verify the -+s direction of your power lead...think I messed that one up once and plugged it in backwards.
Verify the -+s direction of your power lead...think I messed that one up once and plugged it in backwards.
made_in_the_alps_legacy
10 kW
You should still be able to follow the throttle range adjustement procedure of your esc
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
I've tried everything an every combination I can think of. Tried three esc. When setting it w The HK150 i hold down the program button while switching it on, then let go immediately, then push one in nutural, twice in forward, 3 in back. Esc just blinks. The receiver has constant red n green lights and at first turning on they flicker back green n red for half a second. The wii blinks red when i push s and thats it till 10seconds about and then its off. Tried holding c and light stays on while holding and then it blinking the same as always.
Motor tones fine
Plugged two alien esc to it. I haven't got around to programming them but torque board who sold them said they're pretty programmed as is. They are more vocal than the hk150 and have no lights. They had nice startup tones that inspired confidence. Sounded like I was at Disney land. Then there was what sounded like- where are you I'm here in the dark without any receiver beep beep. Over and over
Motor tones fine
Plugged two alien esc to it. I haven't got around to programming them but torque board who sold them said they're pretty programmed as is. They are more vocal than the hk150 and have no lights. They had nice startup tones that inspired confidence. Sounded like I was at Disney land. Then there was what sounded like- where are you I'm here in the dark without any receiver beep beep. Over and over
torqueboards
1 MW
Hummina - Do you have a Uno to re-flash?
I can probably meet up with you sometime within the next few weeks at tech shop and take a look at it.
I can probably meet up with you sometime within the next few weeks at tech shop and take a look at it.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
What's that? No.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
anyone have a simple tutorial on how to reflash with the uno? I was going to get one and I'd plan to do this today if I can. my wounds are ready for another shot on the board.
psychotiller
10 kW
Torque offered to help you.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
he said he'll be a while before I can meet him if he does it. we were writing and he said using the uno myself is easy so I thought I'd do that today and get going. That's the point I'm at. If someone, torque or anyone, can tell me what the steps are, or if they're buried in the nunchuck thread,...that's my goal.
makepeace
10 mW
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2014
- Messages
- 34
steps:
- find the link to Austin's code on github in the nunchuck thread
- download the code
- have your uno + usb at hand
- follow one of these guides until you have downloaded the arduino IDE, have your uno talking to your PC and made sure that you can upload code to it
- open austin's wiiciever.ino (in the wiiciever folder from github) in the arduino IDE
- upload that set of code to the arduino
- put the loaded chip into your board
simple as that!
- find the link to Austin's code on github in the nunchuck thread
- download the code
- have your uno + usb at hand
- follow one of these guides until you have downloaded the arduino IDE, have your uno talking to your PC and made sure that you can upload code to it
- open austin's wiiciever.ino (in the wiiciever folder from github) in the arduino IDE
- upload that set of code to the arduino
- put the loaded chip into your board
simple as that!
torqueboards
1 MW
Hi Hummina,
Been busy. It's pretty simple. You just need to do the following:
1. Buy an Arduino Uno -- http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-UNO-board-DIP-ATmega328P/dp/B006H06TVG/
2. Buy Jumper Wires -- http://www.amazon.com/Wosang-Solderless-Flexible-Breadboard-Jumper/dp/B005TZJ0AM/
3. Remove the current atmel chip on the board. You can either use a very small flat head screwdriver to pull it out and/or buy a chip puller.
4. You can find the main doc here - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OMyipDXwUIevf9hT1LSHdhx5EEQ6rP9OY-iQ6avuLok/edit
Been busy. It's pretty simple. You just need to do the following:
1. Buy an Arduino Uno -- http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-UNO-board-DIP-ATmega328P/dp/B006H06TVG/
2. Buy Jumper Wires -- http://www.amazon.com/Wosang-Solderless-Flexible-Breadboard-Jumper/dp/B005TZJ0AM/
3. Remove the current atmel chip on the board. You can either use a very small flat head screwdriver to pull it out and/or buy a chip puller.
4. You can find the main doc here - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OMyipDXwUIevf9hT1LSHdhx5EEQ6rP9OY-iQ6avuLok/edit
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
Thanks. I have my work cut out for me now. Was looking at those things at radio shack. Thank you.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
I have two nunchucks n toggle parts. Theyre both the non recharge type/brand Could mixing the different toggles/receivers be a problem setting things up or have been the reason im having to reflash?
Maybe reflashing wont solve my problem im concerned. Is there anything else it could be? Do the lights blink meaning dif things? Dont want to spend 40$ to find it didnt solve it.
Do you take the toggle off ur board when u stop? The chuck instructions say it will stay on for 30min unless the toggle is removed.
Receivers n transmitters are cheap! 19 is the lowest ive seen now at hobbypartz and its pretty small.
Infact im trying to bail on this at 40$ for a thing ill likely never use again. I read the description and still dont know what you can do with it! Maybe id change my mind if i could make an esc w it. Or remote control. I dont use computers for anything but shopping, chess, and talking to u guys about this so I'm pretty computer iliterate. Seems shipping might be "two day" but getting it out their door is another 3
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__46054__Futaba_18MZH_18Ch_2_4GHz_Helicopter_Radio_System_Mode_2_.html
Maybe reflashing wont solve my problem im concerned. Is there anything else it could be? Do the lights blink meaning dif things? Dont want to spend 40$ to find it didnt solve it.
Do you take the toggle off ur board when u stop? The chuck instructions say it will stay on for 30min unless the toggle is removed.
Receivers n transmitters are cheap! 19 is the lowest ive seen now at hobbypartz and its pretty small.
Infact im trying to bail on this at 40$ for a thing ill likely never use again. I read the description and still dont know what you can do with it! Maybe id change my mind if i could make an esc w it. Or remote control. I dont use computers for anything but shopping, chess, and talking to u guys about this so I'm pretty computer iliterate. Seems shipping might be "two day" but getting it out their door is another 3
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__46054__Futaba_18MZH_18Ch_2_4GHz_Helicopter_Radio_System_Mode_2_.html
sn0wchyld
100 kW
the short answer is 'probably not'
in VERY simple terms, the torque output of a motor is strongly related to its size. the power level is related to torque by how fast the motor spins. the only reason rc motors are useable is because they produce low torque, but high power - by spinning at very high rpm. they can then be geared down to low rpm, so they then effeftively produce high power at low rpm - meaning high torque.
this is why high power hub motors on ebikes are so large - they need to produce lots of torque at low rpm, with no 'gearing down'.
heres another way too look at it...
in order to get say... 500w out of this motor, youll need to push in about 700w from your battery. due to the low kv of the motor, each phase wire is quite thin (lots of turns around each tooth), and can probably only handle a amp or so continuous. lets be generous and say 7A. that means you need a 100v battery to get your 700w input. it also means the motor will spin at ~80kv x 100v = 8krpm - so your still having to gear down the motor to get to a useable rpm for a skateboard or whatever. So youve gained nothing really... and good luck finding a 100v controller to drive a 24 pole motor at 8000 rpm...
in VERY simple terms, the torque output of a motor is strongly related to its size. the power level is related to torque by how fast the motor spins. the only reason rc motors are useable is because they produce low torque, but high power - by spinning at very high rpm. they can then be geared down to low rpm, so they then effeftively produce high power at low rpm - meaning high torque.
this is why high power hub motors on ebikes are so large - they need to produce lots of torque at low rpm, with no 'gearing down'.
heres another way too look at it...
in order to get say... 500w out of this motor, youll need to push in about 700w from your battery. due to the low kv of the motor, each phase wire is quite thin (lots of turns around each tooth), and can probably only handle a amp or so continuous. lets be generous and say 7A. that means you need a 100v battery to get your 700w input. it also means the motor will spin at ~80kv x 100v = 8krpm - so your still having to gear down the motor to get to a useable rpm for a skateboard or whatever. So youve gained nothing really... and good luck finding a 100v controller to drive a 24 pole motor at 8000 rpm...
