stuttering when accelerating,

[Jurg]

I converted a solo–wheel to a little runabout. The solo–wheel had a controller that was guided through a gadget to stand up straight. I am too old of a guy to ride like that and got balance problems (shot nerves in legs...) so purchased a controller and made a 3 wheeler out of it. But now when starting off, it got
no good torque, sounds funny and jerking etc!...(feels like driving off in 3rd gear of a ICE...) Have I perhaps got the wires crossed? Have connected the 3 wires of the motor according to colours as well as the 5 hall wires... I am no profi, an plastic engineer for donkeys years, made many project mechanically and now, mess around with stuff that interests me. Looking for a person that can handle a old chap like me with some patience...Thanks for anything that might help/

 

[MxusMick]

Sounds like wires are incorrect, don't give it much throttle or may fry controller. Some controllers have a white " learning wire", it will figure out the wires, but be careful, motor will take off flying so stay away and unplug learning wire immediately! If it rolls backwards, plug wire in again and unplug instantly! I almost lost my arm once.

 

[E-HP]

I converted a solo–wheel to a little runabout. The solo–wheel had a controller that was guided through a gadget to stand up straight. I am too old of a guy to ride like that and got balance problems (shot nerves in legs...) so purchased a controller and made a 3 wheeler out of it. But now when starting off, it got
no good torque, sounds funny and jerking etc!...(feels like driving off in 3rd gear of a ICE...) Have I perhaps got the wires crossed? Have connected the 3 wires of the motor according to colours as well as the 5 hall wires... I am no profi, an plastic engineer for donkeys years, made many project mechanically and now, mess around with stuff that interests me. Looking for a person that can handle a old chap like me with some patience...Thanks for anything that might help/

Have you tested it with the wheel elevated off the ground? If so, does it run smoothly when elevated, or still jerky?

As mentioned, you may have a mismatch of phase wires and hall sensor conductors. For ebike controllers, there are no color standards, so you are lucky if you are able to match the correct combination (of 36) of phase and hall conductors that will run smoothly and in the right direction if the components were not purchased together (motor and controller).

You could try the brute force method, and try all combinations, or you can use the flow chart in the following link to reduce the number of combinations you'll need to try. The link provides additional information about how you go about performing the tests.

Testing BLDC motor's Phase Wiring - Hall Sensors and Wiring. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum

Testing electrical components of a typical hub motor with a digital multi meter. First take a few minuets and look over the wiring going into the motor for cuts, scrapes, missing insulation and other wiring issues or poor connections that should be resolved first. Smell for...

electricbike.com

 

[Jurg]

Hi E–HP,

Thanks very much for your direction...looks humangous... but makes sense. I will try your suggestions one by one.
I have lifted the drive wheel off the ground and it does not jiggle at all. Got 3 modes, 1 low "gear" slow, then 2 and 3 pretty fast. All run nicely. Attached a picture of the "craft" as it is now, and another one as I brought it. It has a 60V battery and (shows 65.2v) full..
The new controller is obvious from a different manufacturer, the only common thing is, their both from china...!
Your schema does look quite complicated for an amateur... I notice you only show the div. motor wires in different connections. The hall wires are all the same...??? or am I reading that wrong?
the learning wire does work, so I can go forward and reverse..
Regards
Jürg

Have you tested it with the wheel elevated off the ground? If so, does it run smoothly when elevated, or still jerky?

As mentioned, you may have a mismatch of phase wires and hall sensor conductors. For ebike controllers, there are no color standards, so you are lucky if you are able to match the correct combination (of 36) of phase and hall conductors that will run smoothly and in the right direction if the components were not purchased together (motor and controller).

You could try the brute force method, and try all combinations, or you can use the flow chart in the following link to reduce the number of combinations you'll need to try. The link provides additional information about how you go about performing the tests.

Testing BLDC motor's Phase Wiring - Hall Sensors and Wiring. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum

Testing electrical components of a typical hub motor with a digital multi meter. First take a few minuets and look over the wiring going into the motor for cuts, scrapes, missing insulation and other wiring issues or poor connections that should be resolved first. Smell for...

electricbike.com

 

[MxusMick]

If it has that white wire on the controller that plugs into itself, lift the motor wheel off the ground and carefully plug while "learning wire" together, pull it out cuz the motor wide open throttle, if wheel spun backwards while plugged in, it will run forward once unplugged. I did it today on a bike and it got away from me, but I was able to disconnect the battery so use caution.

 

[Jurg]

If it has that white wire on the controller that plugs into itself, lift the motor wheel off the ground and carefully plug while "learning wire" together, pull it out cuz the motor wide open throttle, if wheel spun backwards while plugged in, it will run forward once unplugged. I did it today on a bike and it got away from me, but I was able to disconnect the battery so use caution.

Thanks Mick, Yes got that wire and that works fine, have a switch that can turn it on and off for emergency, but that switch is protected with a flap so I can not accidentaly touch it.
Regards
Jürg

 

[Jurg]

Have you tested it with the wheel elevated off the ground? If so, does it run smoothly when elevated, or still jerky?

As mentioned, you may have a mismatch of phase wires and hall sensor conductors. For ebike controllers, there are no color standards, so you are lucky if you are able to match the correct combination (of 36) of phase and hall conductors that will run smoothly and in the right direction if the components were not purchased together (motor and controller).

You could try the brute force method, and try all combinations, or you can use the flow chart in the following link to reduce the number of combinations you'll need to try. The link provides additional information about how you go about performing the tests.

Testing BLDC motor's Phase Wiring - Hall Sensors and Wiring. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum

Testing electrical components of a typical hub motor with a digital multi meter. First take a few minuets and look over the wiring going into the motor for cuts, scrapes, missing insulation and other wiring issues or poor connections that should be resolved first. Smell for...

electricbike.com

Hi E HP,
I tried your advise and with the solution (top right) the stuttering has stopped ! Drives off very smooth in 1 (gear) but has very little torque. In 2nd, it got more power, torque and in 3rd even more but then starts to stutter as I accelerate further... guess still something not correct. My battery is rated 60 v, at present it got 63,5 and when fully charged 65 v. If I would change the controller wires, would that be possible? Can I make a mistake by changing the wires, I am a bit scared. Guess I can try with the yellow, green and blue... will I have to be careful doing that? Do not want to burn out anything.
Regards
Jürg

 

[E-HP]

I wouldn’t change anything yet if you have the motor running running smoothly. Can you provide more information about the controller you are using? Maybe a pic of the label or a link to where you got it?

 

[Jurg]

I wouldn’t change anything yet if you have the motor running running smoothly. Can you provide more information about the controller you are using? Maybe a pic of the label or a link to where you got it?

I have noticed that my design was faulty in anyway, the drive wheel is in front and my weight on the back so the wheel starts to spin... so I will change the whole thing around and sit on the single drive wheel and steer with the small ones. At least due to your advise, you gave me confidence and as soon as it warms up in my garage, I will start modifying it. I will send you a picture of the controller. Actually brought different ones, the one used fitted nicely. will send picture of them all as well as the controller. Thanks a lot for your advise!
Regards
Jürg

 

[DingusMcGee]

If you have a controller that permits PID startup adjustments (Fardriver controllers do) you can back off the default setting from “heavy duty motor” to a lesser setting and you will get less motor fits.

Usually an undersized motor when put to task cannot operate very well (You get stuttering and chatter —the motor fits) with the startup PID settings of “Super Duty Motor”. Solution — Back Off or get a bigger motor for that task.

E.g. the LR Big Block Motor will not operate very well with PID startup category “heavy duty Motor”.

 

[E-HP]

At least due to your advise, you gave me confidence and as soon as it warms up in my garage, I will start modifying it. I will send you a picture of the controller.

Confidence is a good thing for DIY, as long as you stay cautious and disciplined. Electronics are generally unforgiving if you happen to connect the wrong wires. Hope you get some warmer weather soon!

 

[Jurg]

I wouldn’t change anything yet if you have the motor running running smoothly. Can you provide more information about the controller you are using? Maybe a pic of the label or a link to where you got it?

Hi E–HP,
attached pictures, first one the old one (with the self–leveling ) then the controller and the accelerator (same supplier as controller) last picture purchased at aliexpress .
The motor got 500W claims 20 km/h, and up 12deg. incline, now barely uphill in first gear..! I have another 2 controller, one larger the other smaller, used the one that fitted nicely into the battery tube !
Regards
Jürg