Suggestions for cheap steel-forked mountain bike?

bikerdude100

100 µW
Joined
May 6, 2009
Messages
8
I'm going through Jason and purchasing my first Ebike kit. Do any of you folks have a small list of suggestions for a steel-forked bike that they have experience with? Something I can get through Walmart or sumptin? I was looking at mongoose, but it seems they have all this aluminum or alloys stuff sometimes referred as "elemental." Thanx ahead of time, your friend,
Bikerdude.
 
I bought a Mongoose Snare Mountain bike from walmart. and mounted a GM front hub motor at 48v. It snapped the dropouts on the fork. I later read that the drop outs on the fork were made of Magnesium. It is a very brittle non-ductile metal. Most suspension shocks have magnesium drop outs now. Good for regular riding. Not good if you plan to mount a motor in it. I swapped the front fork out with a Surly "Instigator" fork. Its a rigid fork made of Chromoly steel. I would almost say Surly forks are the ES fork of choice if you have to run a front hub motor. Most ES members have given them high praise and I do to. Im running mines at 84v ..72v nominal under load with torque arms. I have alot of speed and torque and thats a lot of pressure on the drop outs. Ive put it through some stressing situations (jack rabbit stars and killer hills) and its holding strong after 2-300 miles (Two weeks). ALWAYS GO TO A REAR MOTOR IF YOU CAN. Drops out will be twice as thick most of the time and you will have few problems. Alot safer and better piece of mind.
 
Try craigslist for an older chro-mo MTB: specialized, giant... surly....
 
My Trek 820 came with a steel suspension fork (a magnet sticks to it) but I replaced it with a rigid Surly fork to be safe. I'm only running a 408 at 48v but I'm still being careful with two Ampedbikes torque arms installed. It's probably OK to use a low to medium powered DD motor on a good steel suspension fork but there is some debate on the matter. I would not think it's safe to use a 530x series or a torquey geared hub motor on any suspension fork. My opinion only.

Be safe,
Bill
 
Check Craigslist, garage sales. Bring a magnet to test whether it's steel.
 
Yeah, take a magnet shopping. I'm assuming that you are looking at front hubs and want some kind of primitive suspension. In Wally world the other day, I was looking at a bike with slightly better front forks but still steel. It was a Mongoose, selling for just under $200 localy, which had front disk and rear rim brakes. No posts on the forks for rim brakes though, so that may be a deal breaker. My solution has been the next bike down the price list, which comes with front and rear rim brakes, and front forks that have the dropout formed by squashing the steel tube. The suspension is super lame, about 40 mm, and very prone to bottoming out on any chuckholes. But it does feel better to me than regular steel forks, and helps me to have less problems with hand fatigue on really long rides. Under 5 miles, I wouldn't need suspension at all, but for 30 miles a day at my age, I NEED suspension even if it's the cheeze kind. These lower level bikes come with tinfoil front gears, so you will need to start looking for a good crank immediately at the garage sales. Forget standing the seat for any length of time too, so add $50 to the price for all that right off the get go.

For any front hub, the main thing is to avoid any bike with a quick release front hub, which are notorious for poor fit of the oversize washers and then spinout ruining motors, controllers, and god forbid, teeth.

Going up the price list, my local bike shop has an entry level Trek mtb,( maybe the 820?) with hardtail and a slightly better but still steel front fork. That one retails locally for about $350. For those wanting to buy a bike that doesn't require you to tune it, the extra $150-200 is well worth it. Anything from wally world or a garage sale, craigs list, etc is garanteed to need a real bike mechanic to spend some time on it. So if you aren't one, you'll spend a lot getting it done, or get to learn how. The cheap bikes can run amazing distances when properly tuned, and the really expensive bikes can wear out in just a few miles if left out of whack.
 
One more thing to look out for are lawyer lips.

Most all new bikes have them on the dropouts to (hopefully) keep the wheel with the bike if the quick release gets loose. The problem with them is that they provide very little torque resistance flat area against an axle nut. Justin at ebikes.ca sells a 'c' washer that fills the lawyer lip recess and allows for a decent fit for a hub motor axle nut.

Both aftermarket chomoly forks I've bought did not have lawyer lips.

Be safe,
Bill
 
Forget any front fork that had a QR hub. Period, end of rant.
 
These are all great suggestions. I went looking for a Specialized Hardrock, as I remember their Kevlar tires, but apparently they're only sold in stores, not online mail order, at least according to Jakes bikes or som site. I'll Kepp looking, but that fork info is useful in itself. Thanx again, BKD :D
 
Specialized hardrock is easy to find used.

Great link on the spinner fork, do you know the travel length on it? Most of the wallbike ones are only 40 mm, and bottom out on much of a bump. The steel tubes on an 80 mm would be great, but I don't know if anybody makes one. How about the fit? do you have to squash the tubes any to fit an ebikekit motor?
 
All good to know, thanks. Some have front hubs and nice bikes, but finding a source for a 1 1/8 " steer tube suspension fork with steel dropouts can require a lot of hunting on the net. The steel forks are easy to find, but usually are 1" steer tubes.
 
The steerer and stanchion tubes on the Spinner Grind OS2 are steel, but it appears from their website that the lowers/dropouts are magnesium. Wouldn't alloy dropouts be a weak link for a torquey front hub installation? Drawing an analogy from home security, it's a bit like locking the back door but leaving the front door open.

Joey
 
Yeah, those would be suicide in my opinion. Even with steel forks, anything made for a quick release hub is to be avoided for a front hub I think. For now at least, I'm sticking to cheaper frames with the thick steel dropouts.
 
Jason,

I had a coupla duplicate keys made up by a locksmith for $20, so no problem with that or anything else- I would have written earlier, but I have been working a 75 hour week. I just took my bike out at 5 this morning, and it took about 45 minutes to get to a town about 15 miles away. I brought both batteries just to be sure I could return with the same lack of difficulty. Riding that thing is a BLAST AND A HALF! all my friends at the coffeehouse were drooling. The batteries seem effortless to recharge (not that I would expect anything less), and the bike rides so easily, even my wheezy butt gets up those hills with ease. It was the best light workout I have had in months or even years, and I plan to continue, and soon I will post some photos and a video or two. Thank you so much! bOTH you and Zack offer the best service, info, and I truly found my contact with you both to be inspiring. Life is so good with LiFePo4.

Thanx again, James.
 
Back
Top