Super hiryuu - A BBS02 / Leafmotor / MXUS 3kW Dual sus. bike

Trailblazer said:
ebikeSpareTire said:
I had to watch that video twice. Grabbing the corners of my desk. Nicely done!

I just ordered the LB 1500 16 4T for my A2B Metro. Have you grenaded the 1500 yet? I ordered it with 3mm phase wires and a built-in heat sensor, but your build looked pretty stout.

Can you give me a link to that kit? Please?



Absolutely.

http://www.leafbike.com/products/e-bike-hub-motor/gearless-20-24-26-700c-28-inch/updated-20-inch-48v-1500w-rear-hub-motor-wheel-1016.html

Let us know your progress, If you would.
 
cwah said:
neptronix said:
You are most likely right. But that doesn't explain the discrepancy between the leaf motor ( which will do 1mph more on 12S ) and the MXUS 3T.

I'm liking the much lower weight of the leaf. I think that the perfect motor would be a 40MM wide MXUS/leaf..

Just gonna stick with the leaf until we get settled into the new place and have time to rewire the MXUS.

Why don't you get a QS 205 V3 with 50mm magnet and proper copper fill? Ok, it would weight 12kg but you have a proper heavy duty motor for your needs. Then you can say if the lighter leaf is better or not.

The leaf does what i want. 40mph continuous with multi mile sprints of 45mph.. a 12kg hub is just nuts when you're packing a 1.25kwhr battery ( which is really insufficient to give you decent range at 40mph, btw! You'll get 15 miles if you're lucky! :) )

This bike is heavy enough already.. honestly, i'd go back to a MAC if i lived in an area where 35-38mph was an acceptable speed to travel at. I just like the leaf because it's the lightest motor you can buy that pulls off my 40-45mph speeds.

I was hoping that the mxus would do what i want, while generating less heat and being more efficient at 2500w-3000w.. but it just didn't really justify it's 18lb weight.. not when you're going up stairs anyway :)
 
Oh, and by the way, my mxus motor got screwed up anyway :/
I hit a roofing nail, and the tire flopped around and actually wrapped around the axle and cut off part of the phase wires... at the axle!

It's just been sitting there looking all pathetic, wondering if i'm gonna sell it off or fix it.. :p
 
cwah said:
I'm surprised 10mm more stator doesn't make a difference. Are you sure nothing in thrust or torque?

More thrust, yes, for sure.
In fact, When i swapped the Leaf for the MXUS, i didn't reprogram the controller, and the first thing it did was nearly flip me on my head when i hit the throttle.. :mrgreen:

But, doing the same continuous speeds ( 45mph ), the MXUS just barely managed to not get critically hot on the same hilly route. I'd say that it could tolerate 3000w average for about.. twice the duration? but not indefinitely :roll:

I think that in reality, the MXUS is more like a 2500W continuous motor and the Leaf is closer to 2000W continuous. Do keep in mind that Leaf motor co. set their power rating just a hair above peak efficiency, which is not how most motors are rated. I doubt that they ever put it on a dyno with heat measuring to measure what the sustained wattage was. The same might go for MXUS, but they just assumed that the motor did X wattage based on their feelings too :lol:
 
ok, I was wondering if the leaf 1500W could be used instead of the MXUS, but for me thrust is more important than speed because I am constantly starting and stopping through red light... So Mxus it is!
 
cwah said:
ok, I was wondering if the leaf 1500W could be used instead of the MXUS, but for me thrust is more important than speed because I am constantly starting and stopping through red light... So Mxus it is!

On both motors, i've never been able to max them out in a 26 inch wheel because of wheelies.

Give a 4T leaf 90A x 48v, and a 3T MXUS 90A x 48v... and just go 100% throttle, and..

The Leaf will try to flip you over, but you'll have enough time to adjust and correct... then after 10mph or so, it'll stop threatening to lift the front wheel into the sky, and you're safe.

The MXUS will flip you over, and not give you time to adjust. If you're cautious of this and are careful with the throttle to 15-20mph, you're free from wheelies.

Both motors pull hard enough to overtake a V6, or maybe even a V8 car, from a stoplight. Easily.

The leaf has more power than i know what to do with on a bicycle with a standard wheelbase. Now, if you had a grayborg or something with an extended swingarm, THEN you could make full advantage of the torque and actually saturate the motor.

20S lipo was near terrifying on the leaf. That 'max power' video i shot had me just barely edging the throttle until i hit 20mph. It was very difficult to control the bike at that power.
 
I'm not worried about flipping it over. I used to have an overvolted mac at 76V 35A on 16" wheel brompton bike. According to the similator (ebike.ca) it is equivalent to 155 lbs/thrust.

On the same simulator, a mxus 4505 on 20" wheel at 52v 100A is barely 135 lbs/thrust. So it would be less than what I used to have.... i may have to upgrade my battery to 76v if it doesn't enough thrust...

Ps: dropout clearance can be solved with this little trick:
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cwah said:
......

Ps: dropout clearance can be solved with this little trick:
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I've been following the another thread on the Leaf motor which lead me to this thread. The videos here just about made up my mind to go ahead and start this. One of the questions I had is my dropout width is considerably less 92mm (3 5/8") than the 135mm (5 1/4") width listed on the leaf web page. Is this anywhere practical to try to use? I am pretty handy with metal work but would like to avoid building a new swingarm if at all possible.
 
could you help me with my leaf motor?

I can't seem to get it working in sensored mode.

I am using a grin sinewave 40 amp controller
 
Can you show us a better picture of the setup you have to keep the battery away from your rear shock? Thanks! I'm currently building a similar build
 
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