Tern Swoop Folder

pacamu

10 mW
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Messages
32
Location
melbourne ne suburbs australia
hi this is my new ebike its a tern swoop folding bike.
its a 20" wheel model
fitted a speed drive(ATS) so can now peddle at 30+ kmh with ease
fitted a brookes saddle flyer special
fitted a thudbuster ST from cane creek
fitted a brompton luggage frame and Front Carrier Block assembly and bag from discount shop http://www.brompton.co.uk/spares/part/1006/front-carrier-frame-only-short-for-s-type

Q85 motor 328 rpm with 20" rim(opened fork width extra 10mm)
Standard, 6 fet 3077 controller and pas and throttle and some parts from http://www.em3ev.com
Battery is 2C NCM Cells 14S, 10P 50.4v 22ah 1108.8whrs 7kg from http://www.em3ev.com
battery and controller and wiring are in the front brompton frame and bag (a bit front heavy)

thanks to all posters for your wonderfull info and ideas and reviews and links you all made it so easy
will add pictures when i learn how grrrrrrr grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

paul

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I have the Link P7i and am currently using the kanga rack system.
luggage-truss-kanga.jpg

Not really holding up well with a 15lbs battery. I had to have my local welder reinforce some aluminum areas that tended to fatigue to the point of breaking. Now I have a solid aluminum rack but the hard resin plastic clip area breaks. The plastic cannot be reinforced, nor repaired when broken.

I'm curious how your Brompton front rack/bag is handling to the rigors of riding, as I may get rid of my kanga in favor of your Brompton... :idea:

Edit: found a vid on your mounting system. Seems to be more robust than my kanga. Nice that Tern kept things universal with Bromptons accessories :!:
[youtube]MmGvmQRcPkU[/youtube]
 
BikeFanatic said:
That is a nice little bike , do you have any ride data? Like top speed or your over all impression of the motor?

thanks for the kind words, like it so far does 30 kmh on the flat and used 1 volt on a 5km ride
can be a bit noisy when using power. must remember to be carefull, confidience goes through the roof using power reminds me of racing.
 
melodious said:
I'm curious how your Brompton front rack/bag is handling to the rigors of riding, as I may get rid of my kanga in favor of your Brompton... :idea:

got the brompton for the reasons you talk about. its not a exact fit to the tern but close, tern holes are wider apart and tern metal boss is differnt shape the brompton mount sits on the boss and a gap exists between mount and head tube, so far all good with the brompton luggage kit holding about 8kg.
the alloy tubes can be cut to suit the luggage bag and rerivet to the plastic frame
also not having 8kg mounted on the steer feels good and stable,better to mount on the fixed head tube
nycewheels have a elec brompton bike kit also.
got a pic of your bike melodious
 
I must have jinxed myself. Was inspecting my front rack and I'm getting a failure point (again). Not the reinforced aluminum truss, but rather the "L" shaped rack. Seems I need to change things around. It's just too much weight on it. The brompton front seems to be a good goto solution for those that don't want to DIY fabricate systems. The bag is positioned closer to the headtube/handlebar which should decrease metal fatigue.

Thanx for the post, otherwise I'd never have known there was another option for my bike.

As far as pics goes. I still haven't figured out how to post here. Maybe I should learn before the weekend is done. :lol:
 
Just an FYI. The brompton mount does require some modification of the mount to tern headtube. It's not a cakewalk but the solution is rather straightforward. Specifically:

1. redrill the mounting holes into mount as they are too close. Terns, are a bit wider. Also, the bolts are different thread size. You may need to purchase longer bolts.
2. resurface the brompton mounting area to accept tern's mounting area. simply using a dremel and routing bit should be able to gouge out the extra hard plastic in the inner portions of bromptons mounting plate so you can get a nice flush bolt on.
3. the metal mounting plate won't fit unless you redrill for the right widths. you could also substitute this step by just using washers.
 
I had to rethread the tern mounting holes due to me manhandling the torque bolts in there and stripping the threads. I used a m6 helicoil kit with some red loctite. Helicoils FTW! After installing and letting it cure overnight, I took my bike out and so far so good. The mount is holding up well. I'm not bombing curbs yet, as I still have doubts at the moment. But I have taken a 40 mile ride in largely new territory with unknown bumps and bruises along the way. So far so good... :wink:
 
melodious said:
I had to rethread the tern mounting holes due to me manhandling the torque bolts in there and stripping the threads. I used a m6 helicoil kit with some red loctite. Helicoils FTW! After installing and letting it cure overnight, I took my bike out and so far so good. The mount is holding up well. I'm not bombing curbs yet, as I still have doubts at the moment. But I have taken a 40 mile ride in largely new territory with unknown bumps and bruises along the way. So far so good... :wink:

good job you done there i didnot trim the plastic mount to headtube as it was a bit thin so i left as is with a gap.
carry a few long zip ties in case something breaks 7kg+ is a lot to hang off the mount
 
What could be done from my method, although it is more permanent, is to trim/shave tern's aluminum head mounting area so that fits the brompton mount. There is quite a bit of routing I had to do to the brompton piece before I could get it flush with tern's headtube. I routed the insides almost to the point where there's a few very small fistulas showing. However, the resin plastic is very very strong, and I find little to worry about the plastic's integrity. The headtube mounting however, concerns me. Not sure, how long the threads and bolts will last with 15-18 lbs of load on them. We'll see as time goes on. But IMHO, it's far more robust than my previous attempt at a front mounting system (biologic's kangarack + truss). The fact the weight is closer to the center of the headtube is the key. :)
 
update: It is my opinion that Tern's head tube mounting area is not suitable for loads greater than 15 lbs. The kanga truss & rack as shown in the picture cannot support the load (it's rated for 8 kg). I've stripped the original m6 threads and have used a helicoil kit to fix the threads. I've ditched the kanga system and have adopted Pacamu's idea of using Brompton's mounting system. I have taken it a step further. I've scored, notched, and cleaned the head tube area, and have applied ample amounts of JB weld epoxy into the bolt holes, inside the routed area of the Brompton mount and let it cure for 24 hours. I also applied it to the outside of the head tube shaping it into the sides of Brompton's hard resin mount. This is a permanent fixture now and there is no turning back :wink: . This frocking mount isn't going anywhere (crosses fingers*).
 
melodious said:
update: It is my opinion that Tern's head tube mounting area is not suitable for loads greater than 15 lbs. The kanga truss & rack as shown in the picture cannot support the load (it's rated for 8 kg). I've stripped the original m6 threads and have used a helicoil kit to fix the threads. I've ditched the kanga system and have adopted Pacamu's idea of using Brompton's mounting system. I have taken it a step further. I've scored, notched, and cleaned the head tube area, and have applied ample amounts of JB weld epoxy into the bolt holes, inside the routed area of the Brompton mount and let it cure for 24 hours. I also applied it to the outside of the head tube shaping it into the sides of Brompton's hard resin mount. This is a permanent fixture now and there is no turning back :wink: . This frocking mount isn't going anywhere (crosses fingers*).

Triple FAIL! lol


It was raining pretty hard and me being the fool decided to ride around the HARBOR. Well, I hit a corner right at the heart of the harbor at about 5-10 mph and just F'd up my knee (I need some advil). The bag and mount just snapped my ohso beautifully sculted JBweld masterpiece :lol: . It's a mess. How do you take JBweld off?

At this point, I'm not entirely sure how long the mount would have lasted. But with a rider like myself, no. It needs to be in the middle. I crash far too much :p

Not sure whether to scrap the idea to re-electrify it. But I'd have to rewire :? :? :?

:mrgreen: That's too bad. I could do just about everything in my City and then some!

I also have at my discretion, 1x GTRi fully piped with race clutch just sitting here looking at me. It needs a starter and I haven't bought it yet :cry:

Sometimes I wish I had a car
 
melodious wrote:
thats no good im trying to go slow over bumps and gutters in case,
took mine for a 55 km ride mostly in the sun to melbourne city, docklands, carlton, kew then back home,
all went well for the first big ride no problems so far battery started at 58v and finished at 52v for 55km.
the pas 4 speed buttons got a workout got to be a better way to adjust pas on the go
i;m lovin this ride ebikes are great fun to ride
 
been using the software eb3xx to try settings for a eb306-3077 controller all seems good and settings update ok so far.
phase current is 58 and rated current is 20 these are the standard settings em3ev
when using pas the bike is very fast rampup getting upto speed from a stop/slow peddle
i have reset the phase current only to 30 the lowest setting and it has slowed the rampup a little
i have reset the rated current only to 7 the lowest setting and it has slowed the rampup a lot
anyone with expirience with adjusting these values steer me here or suggest something
if keep the ratio to 2.8 phase is 30 and current would be 11 ?

paul
 
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