The 3000w Cyclone motor kits

NightRider

1 mW
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
18
Hopefully this post will help to shed some light on the new "3000w" mid-drive kit, from Cyclone.

Firstly, here is a visual side-by-side comparison of the Cyclone motors. The motor on the left is the new 1920-3000w Cyclone. The one in the middle is the 1800-3000w. And the one on the right is the old 650-3000w (aka 1650w) motor. The new motor comes in two basic sizes, both of which are physically much larger than the old Cyclone motor. In terms of weight, the old motor (on the right) feels about as heavy as the smaller of the two new motors (in the middle). The biggest of the new motors (1920-3000w) is definitely heavier. It is also much more powerful than the new 1800-3000w motor, when running at the same wattage.

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I bought these new Cyclone motors as a replacement for my previous Cyclone motor setup. I was running two 930w Cyclones (sold / labeled as 650-3000w / 1650w) together on my KMX trike, as shown in the following photos:

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And here is what the trike looks like now, with the new 1920-3000w motor installed (the camera flash makes my trike appear a lot dirtier than it really is):

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(In the above photo, the cooling fins on the motor are bent because I hit a rock about the size of a softball, doing around 40 kph! The motor took it well.)

DSC04272.JPGDSC04281.JPGView attachment 7

The new 1920-3000w motor is notably more powerful than my old dual-motor setup. It is also a lot quieter. I estimate that the 1920-3000w motor is about 40% as loud as the old 650-3000w. It actually sounds kind of good too, almost like a tuned V8 engine, as opposed to two mutant ninja wasps battling it out (which is what my trike sounded like before). But the new 1800-3000w motor -- while not as powerful as the larger variant -- is nearly silent! It is quiet to the point where you can hear the ambient chain-noise distinctly. This is due to the fact that these motors use different planetary gears. Both motors use nylon gears (while the old 650-3000w uses metal gears). The gears in the 1920-3000w motor are shallower, and appear to be stronger, with a tighter mesh (which evidently makes them louder). The gears in the 1800-3000w motor have longer teeth, and appear to be generally weaker. The 1800-3000w motor feels about as powerful as my previous setup (with dual motors running at 1000w total). The 1920-3000w motor, however, is an order of magnitude more powerful. I suspect that this is due to its larger copper mass, rotating at a wider diameter.

These motors spin at a speed that I can actually pedal along with, which is nice. I am running a 60T chain-ring in the front, and a 48v battery, which equates to a 80-100 rpm pedaling cadence.

If I had enough space on the frame, I would opt install two quiet 1800-3000w motors. That would probably be the ideal Cyclone motor setup for a trike, as it would provide supreme power, while remaining stealthy (assuming one is able to conceal that much motor behind the seat).

For anyone who owns a KMX trike, I can recommend doing the following mods, shown in the photos below. I added two stabilizing arms, between the seat frame and the front axle truss. This has changed the handling of the trike dramatically. It now feels tight and controlled, whereas before I felt like I was floating around, as the frame flexed. The stock seat mount was actually cracking badly, which is what prompted me to weld it all up. The second mod that I made was to move the chain pulley up above the bottom of the frame. With the original factory design, it hung below the lowest point on the frame, which is just stupid. It got whacked pretty hard a few times, and it was only a matter of time until it was going to get knocked off entirely.

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Yes, it seems that the Cyclone 40 amp controller really only puts out 26 amps. I have tried two controllers now, and both motors, with the same results.
 
hi not to poke fun at cyclone. sorry say it a joke the Cyclone 40 amp controller wire need to be upgraded. they no way it can hold 40amp. wire like 16 wga

upgrade to like 10 wga wire size . i hope it can help

or get a real controller kelly are nice.

all the best :)
 
The answer is to get a different controller....one that is programmable. Lyen comes to mind.

http://www.lyen.com

Tom
 
What worries me about changing to a more powerful controller, is that I might peanut-butter the plastic gears. It would be good to know if what I am experiencing is normal or not, before I would feel comfortable giving it more power. Can anyone help with this? Surely there is another Cyclone owner out there who can tell me whether or not they are able to draw 40 amps from their battery with the stock Cyclone controller!
 
A 26A battery draw and a 40A phase would be a 1.5X programming factor. This very well could be to protect the nylon gears from too much torque.
 
Nice trike dude.

and nice motor comparison... thanks.

In regards to amps, I think something must be a-miss, the stock controller will draw 40 amps in heartbeat if you go uphill with weight; especially if you punch it from a dead stop.

I wouldn't worry about the gears inside the motor failing, on the C3000W motor that is, I don't have the big brother... as I have one of those stock Cyclone controllers shunt-modded to 90 amps on a C3000W motor and they work great, so I suspect something else is a miss. Are you using gears on the trike? I can't see your gearing setup very clearly from the pics. But I can assure you the kit draws power like a hog (78 amps @ 73 V) when I push it to 60 mph...

G.
 
As for the handling... I like those mods, they look simple to do; just need a welder tho.

To date I haven't had much of an issue with my KMX trike's handling characteristics, event at 60 mph, without any tweaks to the frame. I don't do crazy offroad stuff with it tho, its more of a cruiser for me.

I actually valued the flexiness of trike frame, and that was part of the reason why I chose the KMX frame.... b/c it doesn't have suspension so you I wanted flex in the frame to create a "leaf spring" suspension; this only works on steel frames where fatigue factor is usually not a problem. Ride is very nice, even at 50 mph on my trike.

As for being twitchy... not sure what to say. Mine cruises at 30mph like its on rails, stable and super crisp steering. No sudden movements, no jerking around, no issues, not even at 60 mph either, thing tracks on rails. If anything, my trike would tend to understeer (rather than flip) when taking turns too fast b/c I placed most of the weight on my trike on the front and the two front 1.5 wheels are just not up to the task of providing enough lateral grip to hold the trike cornering forces. I also placed my seat, where my butt seats, almost over the frame crux center, so that helps my weight sit on the dead center of the trike, almost forward; where the motor seats too.

G.
 
gman1971 said:
In regards to amps, I think something must be a-miss, the stock controller will draw 40 amps in heartbeat if you go uphill with weight; especially if you punch it from a dead stop.

I wouldn't worry about the gears inside the motor failing, on the C3000W motor that is, I don't have the big brother... as I have one of those stock Cyclone controllers shunt-modded to 90 amps on a C3000W motor and they work great, so I suspect something else is a miss. Are you using gears on the trike? I can't see your gearing setup very clearly from the pics. But I can assure you the kit draws power like a hog (78 amps @ 73 V) when I push it to 60 mph...

G.

Thanks for letting me know that I should expect more power out of this controller. But how do you know that you are drawing 40 amps? Are you using a Cycle Analyst, or another power meter?

I think I will try taking the cycle analyst out of the circuit, and monitor current draw with a separate meter. Do you think there could be something wrong with my shunt resistor, which would be restricting current flow? (I am using the external stand-alone shunt that comes with the Cycle Analyst V3.)

I am using an 8-speed 11-32 cassette on the rear, and I have been trying to load it by hitting the throttle in high-gear, but so far I am only seeing a max current draw of 26 amps.
 
gman1971 said:
I have one of those stock Cyclone controllers shunt-modded to 90 amps
G.

Can you give me some more info on this please? I would like to up the power output of this controller cost-effectively!
 
Sorry for wasting everyone's time. I hooked up the stock throttle directly to the stock controller, and it drew the full 40 amps. The problem must be with my Cycle Analyst configuration. Although I had increased power limits sufficiently, something somewhere is limiting my power. I'll post back when I figure it out.
 
Glad the issue got resolved, and that would be yet another reason why I won't use the CA to control anything motor-wise on my trike.

Video please... would like to see your nice trike working, (and now don't go bonkers on us about how awesome it is hahahaha) :)

G.
 
gman1971 said:
Video please... would like to see your nice trike working, (and now don't go bonkers on us about how awesome it is hahahaha) :)

G.

As much as I would like to, I am afraid that I cannot make a video to show this thing off. I am a public figure, and I want to keep my online activities as private as possible. But let me just take the opportunity go bonkers in writing. The trike actually feels like a go-cart now. The big Cyclone motor has so much torque, that I end up spending most of my ride-time in the top three or four gears -- even though I live in a very hilly area. I definitely recommend buying the bigger of the two new Cyclone motors if you are going to stick one on a trike.
 
NightRider said:
gman1971 said:
Video please... would like to see your nice trike working, (and now don't go bonkers on us about how awesome it is hahahaha) :)

G.

As much as I would like to, I am afraid that I cannot make a video to show this thing off. I am a public figure, and I want to keep my online activities as private as possible. But let me just take the opportunity go bonkers in writing. The trike actually feels like a go-cart now. The big Cyclone motor has so much torque, that I end up spending most of my ride-time in the top three or four gears -- even though I live in a very hilly area. I definitely recommend buying the bigger of the two new Cyclone motors if you are going to stick one on a trike.

Public figure... interesting... no video we don't believe you... HAHAHA... I won't ask who you are either... :)

I concur with the go-kart feeling. I love mine. I am running mine at 90 amps 18S and I am absolutely loving it.

I thought about doing what you did, and like the Outrider trikes did but in the end I decided to have mine mounted in the front... b/c I wanted as much weight to be over the two front wheels for handling reasons. The decision to carrying 2.4 kW h battery pack with additional space for more capacity under the seat also prevented me from storing the motor in there, and them lastly, it was a lot of work to get the motor fit in there ... :)

One more thing, be careful with all that insane torque heh... the chains will probably hate you in a few hundred miles. :D

G.
 
gman1971 said:
I thought about doing what you did, and like the Outrider trikes did but in the end I decided to have mine mounted in the front... b/c I wanted as much weight to be over the two front wheels for handling reasons. The decision to carrying 2.4 kW h battery pack with additional space for more capacity under the seat also prevented me from storing the motor in there, and them lastly, it was a lot of work to get the motor fit in there ... :)

One more thing, be careful with all that insane torque heh... the chains will probably hate you in a few hundred miles. :D

G.

Thanks for the good advice. I think I'll stick with 40 amps for the time being. I imagine you've had to upgrade the stock KMX chain pully? I am amazed that you are pulling 90 amps through such a long chain. One of the reasons why I decided to mount my motor in the rear was for the sake of having a shorter chain under all that torque-load. It is also a lot stealthier. A pretty big battery you got there BTW.
 
NightRider said:
gman1971 said:
I thought about doing what you did, and like the Outrider trikes did but in the end I decided to have mine mounted in the front... b/c I wanted as much weight to be over the two front wheels for handling reasons. The decision to carrying 2.4 kW h battery pack with additional space for more capacity under the seat also prevented me from storing the motor in there, and them lastly, it was a lot of work to get the motor fit in there ... :)

One more thing, be careful with all that insane torque heh... the chains will probably hate you in a few hundred miles. :D

G.

Thanks for the good advice. I think I'll stick with 40 amps for the time being. I imagine you've had to upgrade the stock KMX chain pully? I am amazed that you are pulling 90 amps through such a long chain. One of the reasons why I decided to mount my motor in the rear was for the sake of having a shorter chain under all that torque-load. It is also a lot stealthier. A pretty big battery you got there BTW.

Hey NightRider,
Sure thing, and once you get used to 40 amps you'll want more... trust me!

I didn't update the trike chain pully, but I did loosened it b/c it was super tight and that was causing a 10% power loss. To achieve power on the trike I went with as much RPMs as I could muster, so the crank on my trike is spinning at ~340 RPM, so less force required to be passed through the chain to achieve the same power. I have a 10 speed sequential setup on mine with XT shifters, so is basically driving an F-1 car with 58+ mph top end, to be determined some day...

One thing I've read is that the long chain helps increase the chain life, b/c every pin only gets engaged once every third time as you would on a regular shorter chain. I have close to 1000 miles and the stretch hasn't even hit the 0.25% mark, so I am happy with the result. This is a 10 speed chain as well.

Large battery, yes, that was one of the reasons to go trike: I wanted to have super long range, and the original design called for a 60 mph trike that could ride for 60 miles at 30 mph, and based upon my previous experience at 45 Wh mile that number is what was required to hit the 60 mile magic number. The 45 Wh/mile estimate was actually quite high, as it sits now with the additional aero work it can cruise for almost 80 miles @ 30mph, so I am real thrilled with how well it came out. Still tuning it and figuring how to extract the most out of what I built.

The 2nd trike I am building now might actually have even more capacity that the one I ride now... I am shooting for 3.2 kW h and about 100 mile range at 30mph with some more aero work. I've been tempted to purchase the longer C3000W motor, but I've also thought about getting the 7,5 kW kit and just run that instead... so many options these days... :D

I think your trike came out real nice. I like how you got the motor in the mid-section and how you used the frame to secure it. Shame no video of you riding it like a hooligan around hahaha :D

Ride safe!

G.
 
Sorry I know this is such an old thread, did you ever figure out your issue with the cycle analyst? I'm having a similar issue where I have no limits turned on but for some reason it's limiting my power.
 
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