Reid Welch
1 MW
Justin Lemire-Elmore:
http://www.ebikes.ca/
http://www.ebikes.ca/
The Drain Brain in Blue
- Thread starter Reid Welch
- Start date
Reid Welch
1 MW
knightmb
100 kW
Hey, cool to see them in production. Looks like he has a lot of work ahead of him.
Reid Welch
1 MW
:lol:Mathurin said:
I think the usual name is "Wong"
:lol:
knightmb said:
You can see why, at $130 per copy, he's not making money on these things.
It's all hand assembled from raw, custom-made components.
That the boxes, which he orders, must be machined for the window;
even the polycarbonate lens has to be machine made;
Well, I consider the thing to be a rare sort of gift.
IF they were mass produced in China---the price could be lower---yet,
that won't ever happen. I suspect that this is the time to get a Drain Brain;
economics of production demand large batching by low-cost labor.
Unless/until the ebike market really explodes, where is Justin's market?
So--I buy mine now while the getting is possible.
For an inventor with many other interests, making batches of Drain Brains gets dull in a hurry (I presume/have not asked).
Reid
Reid Welch
1 MW
just arrived
Reid Welch
1 MW
Mounting the Brain
Squaring it up and making the flexy articulated arm rigid,
killing two birds
with one wad of epoxy putty.
The saran wrap and the folded paper are temporary.
I'll blacken the putty after it hardens.
Slow-setting putty today; it's cool for a change (72F).
Squaring it up and making the flexy articulated arm rigid,
killing two birds
with one wad of epoxy putty.
The saran wrap and the folded paper are temporary.
I'll blacken the putty after it hardens.
Slow-setting putty today; it's cool for a change (72F).
Reid Welch
1 MW
I'll let you know tomorrow night if not sooner.
Heck, I can bring the bike inside and turn off the lights.
I see that the Unite MY-1018 gear motor (rated for 250W power cont. output)
draws about 40W when completely unloaded, wide open throttle (over-pedaling the motor, that is).
On level ground (it's windy today), it seems to draw about 250W at 16.5mph.
The readings update every second, but they also fluctuate quickly as the load is always doing something differently.
If I stall the bike to nearly a stop, I see that the present 24V shoves a maximum of 34A through the motor. This confirms the stock controller's
35A current limiting.
The Drain Brain is highly satisfactory so far.
I'm really glad to have it. It's going to document things nicely.
It was worth the long extra wait to get it in blue, too.
There are a few more blue ones ready to go, I suppose.
But black is very neat and is probably best for most bikers out there.
Thanks for reading about my small adventures,
Reid
Heck, I can bring the bike inside and turn off the lights.
I see that the Unite MY-1018 gear motor (rated for 250W power cont. output)
draws about 40W when completely unloaded, wide open throttle (over-pedaling the motor, that is).
On level ground (it's windy today), it seems to draw about 250W at 16.5mph.
The readings update every second, but they also fluctuate quickly as the load is always doing something differently.
If I stall the bike to nearly a stop, I see that the present 24V shoves a maximum of 34A through the motor. This confirms the stock controller's
35A current limiting.
The Drain Brain is highly satisfactory so far.
I'm really glad to have it. It's going to document things nicely.
It was worth the long extra wait to get it in blue, too.
There are a few more blue ones ready to go, I suppose.
But black is very neat and is probably best for most bikers out there.
Thanks for reading about my small adventures,
Reid
Reid Welch
1 MW
Hi D-man,
I'm going up to 48V--when I get that wald rack fitted.
Still thinking options.
The factory batteries are BB brand.
I abused mine badly by over-discharging one time--virtually flat.
So I won't blame them as a brand.
I will be getting the Werker store brand that knightmb had such good results with--Batteries Plus.
---
The illumination is even and of an ideal brightness.
The LED is on all the time; no need to switch it off.
I think Justin's done a great job in designing this device.
It's also very easy to program over to mph from default kmh,
and for specific tire diameters. Hella lot easier than the old cyclometer.
It reads miles in hundredths of a mile, which is slick.
It works much better than my former Specialized brand cyclometer, which quit for no knowable reason a couple of weeks ago.
The number are large enough to read clearly from a distance, even for me, with my failing eyesight.
It's a good deal. Get one if you ever plan to get one.
They -could- become extinct---for a long while if not forever.
I sense that Justin is weary of making them over and again in small batches.
That's why he seeks an outside supplier to make them.
But who will? What's the market demand for DBs at this time?
He's bright enough to know what's best for himself.
I'm going up to 48V--when I get that wald rack fitted.
Still thinking options.
The factory batteries are BB brand.
I abused mine badly by over-discharging one time--virtually flat.
So I won't blame them as a brand.
I will be getting the Werker store brand that knightmb had such good results with--Batteries Plus.
---
The illumination is even and of an ideal brightness.
The LED is on all the time; no need to switch it off.
I think Justin's done a great job in designing this device.
It's also very easy to program over to mph from default kmh,
and for specific tire diameters. Hella lot easier than the old cyclometer.
It reads miles in hundredths of a mile, which is slick.
It works much better than my former Specialized brand cyclometer, which quit for no knowable reason a couple of weeks ago.
The number are large enough to read clearly from a distance, even for me, with my failing eyesight.
It's a good deal. Get one if you ever plan to get one.
They -could- become extinct---for a long while if not forever.
I sense that Justin is weary of making them over and again in small batches.
That's why he seeks an outside supplier to make them.
But who will? What's the market demand for DBs at this time?
He's bright enough to know what's best for himself.
Reid Welch
1 MW
This meter is so enjoyable. It's great!
Question for other DB users:
I just made a trial run of one mile at an average speed of 15mph.
Level ground, little wind, brushed gear motor, 24V.
Consumption of current was 18.5 watt hours per mile.
Can you other DB users tell me if this is nearly in line with your own bikes' consumptions, for that speed under these conditions? km readings are OK- I can convert 'em.
Thanks,
Reid
Question for other DB users:
I just made a trial run of one mile at an average speed of 15mph.
Level ground, little wind, brushed gear motor, 24V.
Consumption of current was 18.5 watt hours per mile.
Can you other DB users tell me if this is nearly in line with your own bikes' consumptions, for that speed under these conditions? km readings are OK- I can convert 'em.
Thanks,
Reid
Im getting around 18 wh km
Must find a longer section of flat road. What I did it I went back and forth behind the universitys hospital. I had to stop, turn around and push along with the motor till it got to speed and let it go untill I had to slow and repeat.
Must find a longer section of flat road. What I did it I went back and forth behind the universitys hospital. I had to stop, turn around and push along with the motor till it got to speed and let it go untill I had to slow and repeat.
Elmweaver
10 W
Very interesting information. I had been running some numbers myself but since I had no way to confirm what the amp draw was they had been pointless. With these new numbers it seems to confirm what I had suspected.
@24V-12A the realistic range on my bike is 8 miles (unassited lots of throttle)
This matches what the LED lights showed the other night with the red light coming on just over the 8 mile mark. Further drain at that point will take you down the road longer but you are killing the batteries cycle life to do it.
I need to contact currie and see what voltage the red LED is supposed to come on at. My guess is that it is 21V which should be 30% of capacity remaining.
If it is not a problem to do so it would be great Reid if you could take amps drawn readings at the 12mph and 10 mph speeds as well.
My guess is that at 12mph the batteries might make it 10 miles before going into the red and at 10mph perhaps 12-13miles.
I need to get a speedo one of these days because it is important to control your speed to get both battery life and distance.
@24V-12A the realistic range on my bike is 8 miles (unassited lots of throttle)
This matches what the LED lights showed the other night with the red light coming on just over the 8 mile mark. Further drain at that point will take you down the road longer but you are killing the batteries cycle life to do it.
I need to contact currie and see what voltage the red LED is supposed to come on at. My guess is that it is 21V which should be 30% of capacity remaining.
If it is not a problem to do so it would be great Reid if you could take amps drawn readings at the 12mph and 10 mph speeds as well.
My guess is that at 12mph the batteries might make it 10 miles before going into the red and at 10mph perhaps 12-13miles.
I need to get a speedo one of these days because it is important to control your speed to get both battery life and distance.
knightmb
100 kW
One thing I have noticed with the Currie system like you have Elmweaver, if the power gets too low the controller will cut it off. So I think it tries it's best to avoid really hurting the batteries, but like everyone knows, don't leave SLA batteries in a drained state for too long or else they die a painful death later on.
Reid Welch
1 MW
Elmweaver, I didn't realize until just now that you have one of these Curries--with the chain drive, right?
Which one of 'em is your model?
I've got the CRV24 (Cruiser, 24V)
The red light on mine comes on at 21 V or so. I've not yet run it to cutoff.
But it has lost so much oomph by 21V, that, hell,
you just want to go back to the charger anyway.
Francois-- It's not the time of year or place for your new rig to fairly gauge consumption.
I enjoy the liberty of clear roads, and nonstop running,
going in circuit around residential city blocks.
If you have a school within range, one with an oval track...
(I am lucky there too).
Elmweaver, when someday you can budget for a DrainBrain speedo model someday, get one.
You'll enjoy your bike so much more.
I used to have an opposite attitude: "I don't need no steeenkin' meeters" (the batteries tell me...).
But in truth the batteries and the LED blinky meter don't tell all that much--voltage sag is indicated on full throttle, and not much more.
With this DB, it's an all-instruments in one package. It's very smart
and ergonomic too.
How Justin engineered all this functionality into one device, and backlit too ! is a wonder and testament to his genius.
Just try to find a mass-market cyclometer with a nightlight, even. Pretty rare, that.
And my Specialized brand cyclometer that I was using; it lasted only for three months; then -blank screen- ...dead foe-ever. Bah!
Justin may be just one man, not a corporate money machine, but he's of great personal integrity,
and is young and on the upswing, and so--I consider all that to be a good-enough guarantee of my DB's
remaining functional for several years to come. If it lasts a year without failure, it'll probably last for many years trouble free.
And it's defect free to start with--no complaints here whatsoever.
I have two truly indespensible accessories on this bike:
The Drain Brain and the TudBhuster. :wink:
Seriously good accessories, both of them.
Which one of 'em is your model?
I've got the CRV24 (Cruiser, 24V)
The red light on mine comes on at 21 V or so. I've not yet run it to cutoff.
But it has lost so much oomph by 21V, that, hell,
you just want to go back to the charger anyway.
Francois-- It's not the time of year or place for your new rig to fairly gauge consumption.
I enjoy the liberty of clear roads, and nonstop running,
going in circuit around residential city blocks.
If you have a school within range, one with an oval track...
(I am lucky there too).
Elmweaver, when someday you can budget for a DrainBrain speedo model someday, get one.
You'll enjoy your bike so much more.
I used to have an opposite attitude: "I don't need no steeenkin' meeters" (the batteries tell me...).
But in truth the batteries and the LED blinky meter don't tell all that much--voltage sag is indicated on full throttle, and not much more.
With this DB, it's an all-instruments in one package. It's very smart
and ergonomic too.
How Justin engineered all this functionality into one device, and backlit too ! is a wonder and testament to his genius.
Just try to find a mass-market cyclometer with a nightlight, even. Pretty rare, that.
And my Specialized brand cyclometer that I was using; it lasted only for three months; then -blank screen- ...dead foe-ever. Bah!
Justin may be just one man, not a corporate money machine, but he's of great personal integrity,
and is young and on the upswing, and so--I consider all that to be a good-enough guarantee of my DB's
remaining functional for several years to come. If it lasts a year without failure, it'll probably last for many years trouble free.
And it's defect free to start with--no complaints here whatsoever.
I have two truly indespensible accessories on this bike:
The Drain Brain and the TudBhuster. :wink:
Seriously good accessories, both of them.
Nah, I think my consumption is fair to be measured like this as the bike is in it's intended use.
25km/h in summer is nothing next to 25km/h in winter.
Case in point:
I used to do a 16km trip on a similar bike with no assist, pretty much every two days. What I did is I went 8 kms to fill up two 4l jugs full of drinking water, and came back. Well the region had lots of flat windy places and hills for the rest. To give an idea of the hills, max speed was usually between 65-70 km/h. But the commute gave me around 16km/h average speed on the computer, with real-world average speed of 8km/h since it took 2h to do.
In summer conditions, even a non-cyclist would be able to do better.
Though I should point out I got my numbers on a slightly powdered glazed road, crazy mud 2.25 tires with a few hundred 1/2inch long screws theough the middle three rows of knobs.
25km/h in summer is nothing next to 25km/h in winter.
Case in point:
I used to do a 16km trip on a similar bike with no assist, pretty much every two days. What I did is I went 8 kms to fill up two 4l jugs full of drinking water, and came back. Well the region had lots of flat windy places and hills for the rest. To give an idea of the hills, max speed was usually between 65-70 km/h. But the commute gave me around 16km/h average speed on the computer, with real-world average speed of 8km/h since it took 2h to do.
In summer conditions, even a non-cyclist would be able to do better.
Though I should point out I got my numbers on a slightly powdered glazed road, crazy mud 2.25 tires with a few hundred 1/2inch long screws theough the middle three rows of knobs.
Reid Welch
1 MW
I think I'd rather try to ebike on the lunar surface than in your present winter conditions.
It's not easy living where you live; not climate-wise.
At least the people are generally better.
Here, Miami: the rudest-per-capita city in the USA.
A kingdom for bike and car thieves.
They even 'jack bikes on occasion.
The weather makes up for some of this area's other sins.
So does the tropical scenery.
But oh, man, what a lot of indecent people gravitate to this clime.
Dregs settle to the bottom of a funnel.
At least you are in a nicer social setting.
It's not easy living where you live; not climate-wise.
At least the people are generally better.
Here, Miami: the rudest-per-capita city in the USA.
A kingdom for bike and car thieves.
They even 'jack bikes on occasion.
The weather makes up for some of this area's other sins.
So does the tropical scenery.
But oh, man, what a lot of indecent people gravitate to this clime.
Dregs settle to the bottom of a funnel.
At least you are in a nicer social setting.
Elmweaver
10 W
Yes I have the same one as Michael, the Mongoose CB 24V450 from wally mart for $279.Reid Welch said:
Excellent then my math was right, yes I see no point in going past when the red light comes on unless I was forced to by being to far from a place to plug in or was not able to just pedal to one. I need my batteries cycle life to last as long as they can. Hoping for 200-300 instead of the quoted 100.Reid Welch said:
Yes I had been to his site and looked at those as well as the other things he sells, but for me it is just way to much money. I am eating beans and rice and drinking water this month just to make up for the extra $66 I needed to buy this bike over the WE BD24-10 kit I was going to get before they sold out. Might be able to get a $10 speedo in january I hope.Reid Welch said:
I am not complaining mind you, this bike is just what I needed, but it takes me a long time to save up any money, 14 months savings for this bike.
Reid Welch
1 MW
I can empathize with the tight budget--have been there myself when I was young.
Say, then, to forestall a problem you will run into otherwise: the weakest point of the electrical system
is the plug in the battery box.
Its contacts are not really up to the current demands
--especially because vibration tends to work the plug loose.
What can and will happen eventually,
is that the plug works nearly loose,
and when a demand for 30+ amps occurs
(full throttle from a standing start, or going up a grade),
a flashover will occur---an arcing, then -poof-
one of the plug's internal contacts burns mostly away.
And then it's hard to get a contact--have to mash the plug in really hard.
This is a warranty issue if it happens early in the bike's life.
They sent me a whole new battery pack
(but I said that I needed a new plug and cord)
"We'll send you the battery pack too".
And it was a better battery box (has screws clamping its middle),
and that was great and all of that
---but the fools at Currie did not send the needed plug!
So I ended up hardwiring the box to the controller using Radio Shack's "Euro Style" grub screw connectors.
And so I made my own, superior fix.
So watch that plug--it needs to stay fully shoved home.
Check it during rough rides in case it may tend to jounce loose.
Mine sure did. The spring contacts lose pressure over time.
The bike in stock form is fine.
They all have their little problems, which are sort of fun to iron out.
Battery box--if it rattles it will wear badly.
Likewise, rattling batteries
in the box are a needless annoyance.
A -little bit- of urethane spray can foam injected into the box in several areas along the length of the box will lock the batteries in place.
Wedges of pine shim stock may be useful to lock the box itself from moving around. A dab of rubbery glue will keep the shims from falling out (which they will do otherwise, definitely)
Battery rattle is important to fix if you rough your bike on bad roads
or off the street. The case will wear its retaining groove badly.
----
But oh, I like this brand of bike because it can be upgraded endlessly.
Yep, with the "right" attitude, it's nearly as good a money sponge
as a boat or a house or a wife
(uh oh! I shouldn't have said that).
PS: helpful hint
from The President of the United States
to the working poor:
"When beans and rice become a bore
try rice and beans and eat some more".
Forgive me? I am a poet-lampoonist.
I punish everyone equally.
urp.
Say, then, to forestall a problem you will run into otherwise: the weakest point of the electrical system
is the plug in the battery box.
Its contacts are not really up to the current demands
--especially because vibration tends to work the plug loose.
What can and will happen eventually,
is that the plug works nearly loose,
and when a demand for 30+ amps occurs
(full throttle from a standing start, or going up a grade),
a flashover will occur---an arcing, then -poof-
one of the plug's internal contacts burns mostly away.
And then it's hard to get a contact--have to mash the plug in really hard.
This is a warranty issue if it happens early in the bike's life.
They sent me a whole new battery pack
(but I said that I needed a new plug and cord)
"We'll send you the battery pack too".
And it was a better battery box (has screws clamping its middle),
and that was great and all of that
---but the fools at Currie did not send the needed plug!
So I ended up hardwiring the box to the controller using Radio Shack's "Euro Style" grub screw connectors.
And so I made my own, superior fix.
So watch that plug--it needs to stay fully shoved home.
Check it during rough rides in case it may tend to jounce loose.
Mine sure did. The spring contacts lose pressure over time.
The bike in stock form is fine.
They all have their little problems, which are sort of fun to iron out.
Battery box--if it rattles it will wear badly.
Likewise, rattling batteries
in the box are a needless annoyance.
A -little bit- of urethane spray can foam injected into the box in several areas along the length of the box will lock the batteries in place.
Wedges of pine shim stock may be useful to lock the box itself from moving around. A dab of rubbery glue will keep the shims from falling out (which they will do otherwise, definitely)
Battery rattle is important to fix if you rough your bike on bad roads
or off the street. The case will wear its retaining groove badly.
----
But oh, I like this brand of bike because it can be upgraded endlessly.
Yep,
with the "right" attitude, it's nearly as good a money spongeas a boat or a house or a wife
(uh oh! I shouldn't have said that).
PS: helpful hint
from The President of the United States
to the working poor:
"When beans and rice become a bore
try rice and beans and eat some more".
Forgive me? I am a poet-lampoonist.
I punish everyone equally.
urp.
Elmweaver
10 W
:lol: :lol: :lol:
Thanks for the tips I have noticed that when I hit a piece of bad road the battery case makes a lot of noise. I will see about applying some of those ideas on mine.
Save the Batteries - Save the World
oops wrong show
Thanks for the tips I have noticed that when I hit a piece of bad road the battery case makes a lot of noise. I will see about applying some of those ideas on mine.
Save the Batteries - Save the World
oops wrong show
