TheKraftyRhino
1 W
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2009
- Messages
- 52
The Frame
$99 WalMart Special Aluminum Frame with steel front fork.
Changed Rear Wheel out to a Thick wall Heavy Duty rim and 12 gauge spokes.
Heavy duty Coaster Braking hub.
Heavy Duty belted tire and tube with SLIME.
1/4 inch steel framed rack with seat remounted low and aft of stock.
Custom Lexan Twisted Flame Windshield.
Schwinn 3 LED high output Head light.
Schwinn 12 Function Bike Computer.
The Drive System
Manual power:
44T Front Sprocket/ 18T rear / 7 1/2in Cranks
Electric Assist System
Hub Motor
From: http://www.hightekbikes.com/kits.html
High power 750 watt hub motor (peak 1200 watts). Manufacturer Aotema.
Controller
From: http://www.hightekbikes.com/kits.html
There Standard 36V 25amp Controller
Mods:: Installed small amount of Solder on Current shunts inside controller
Replaced Caps in controller with heavy duty 100V Caps
Verified the Fets in controller are indeed able to handle 48Volts and should be able to pull 40 amps and not blow.
Installed a resister in the controller to compensate for the voltage Change to 48V and allow the Indication lights on the throttle to still work. This however Does not correct the Controllers preset Low voltage cutout.
Throttle Indicator lights will Change From Green to yellow @ 40 Volts. The Controller However will still allow it to run until the stock setting ~30volts. Not sure how this will effect the batteries so care is needed to not over Drain.
NoteI did not make the mods to the controller myself. It was done by a friend who has more knowledge of advance electronics then I do. If you want to make the mods I can e-mail him and ask what he did exactly. But you may be better off letting someone experienced do it . He also tested the controller under a sustained load @ full power @ 35 amps. And Tested its ability to take a load @ start up. His Electronic, mechanical and mathematical estimated that 50% throttle for a take off load would not hurt the controller. He took into consideration the weight of the bike,rider,batteries, and cargo in the trailer. Once it was on the bike however the sensorless design causes the motor to shutter some @ take off. So it is suggested to either help @ take off by peddling or just man power it to a good speed to save power and strain on the controller and forks.
The Trailer
A recycled Bicycle Kid Trailer that has a steel frame and was covered in cloth. The cloth was broken down and unsafe for use with children so it was all removed leaving only a shell.
Installed 3/4 MDF on base to form a strong bottom and Formed Lexan to make a light weight cowling. Then sanded and Painted it.
Installed New Wheels with better bearings.
10" Neon Tube installed on rear for High visibility in weather and @ night.
Batteries, Charging and Wiring
4 x 12volt 18ah SLA installed in the Trailer (17lbs x 4 = 68lbs) From Batterymart
Hoping To upgrade to 48v 21AH pings this summer and install them on the Bike instead.
All Wiring is 10g heavy duty copper stranded.
Holes are drilled in the forks and frame to route the wiring inside the tubes as much as possible.
Charger is Battery Defender 48 Volt 3.5 Amp Battery Charger Battery Mart Part #: ACC-4808-SRF Installed in Trailer.
COST
Bike $99
Rear Wheel $120
Hub and Controller $310
Batteries $130
Charger $160
Lexan $55
Wiring tape splices etc etc $60
Nuts bolts Etc $30
Head light $15
Neon Light $15
Bike Computer $15
Trailer Wheels and wood for floor $60
Total $1069 (The wife said I spent $1200 so I'm sure I missed something lol)
Road Tests
The Road test was was done on the roads in my local area. I don't want to get over complicated in my plotted course but I feel that realistic use is a key to determining a true range and its capability. So here is the coarse.
Outside Temp 29 degrees F. Wind 5MPH from the east gusting to 10mph.
..Start Home
..Leaving my Apartment there is snow in the parking lot and its was rather loose and sloppy snow. About a 600 yards to leave the complex the front end was slipping and jerking threw the snow and I had to give a good deal of man power to get threw the mess.
..Leaving the Complex turning right (South) the road is traveled but not plowed well as it is a secondary street. Down hill slightly about 1/2 mile Had to go a little slower due to the snow.
..Continuing on Secondary Roads south for about about 2 miles. Roads are traveled but not plowed well had to keep speed 12-15mph for safety. Found myself Tripoding with my feet to keep from ditching threw the ruts and drifts. The motor was powering threw it with my Nubby snow tires but you could hear the load on it for sure when the snow was thick.
..Turned west for About 2 miles stopping at Stop signs as one should do roads are the same condition still @ this point. some small hills not much over 1percent or so. Hardly noticeable.
..Turned North onto a main road. AT LAST SOME CLEAN STREETS. This leg was clean clear I was able to give it full power. The Grade was slightly uphill as I was traveling away from the river that was to the south. A couple good overpasses going over the interstate and some RR tracks. kept it @ full throttle.
..Turned East for 2 miles again main roads full power Minor hills and a couple more crossing the same interstate and RR again. The last 1/2 mile is a good 4-5% grade uphill.
.. End @ home.
The ride showed ~ 7.6 miles. Stopped @ the Apartment and checked the batteries. Still going strong 45.6 volts I was amazed. So I ran it again in the other direction. ending @ home again and the batteries Checked @ 42.2 volts.
So the total trip was 15.2 miles. Top Speed (on the downhills I'm sure) 34MPH. Average Speed 13MPH. on the flat areas I was getting ~ 24-26MPH
$99 WalMart Special Aluminum Frame with steel front fork.
Changed Rear Wheel out to a Thick wall Heavy Duty rim and 12 gauge spokes.
Heavy duty Coaster Braking hub.
Heavy Duty belted tire and tube with SLIME.
1/4 inch steel framed rack with seat remounted low and aft of stock.
Custom Lexan Twisted Flame Windshield.
Schwinn 3 LED high output Head light.
Schwinn 12 Function Bike Computer.
The Drive System
Manual power:
44T Front Sprocket/ 18T rear / 7 1/2in Cranks
Electric Assist System
Hub Motor
From: http://www.hightekbikes.com/kits.html
High power 750 watt hub motor (peak 1200 watts). Manufacturer Aotema.
Controller
From: http://www.hightekbikes.com/kits.html
There Standard 36V 25amp Controller
Mods:: Installed small amount of Solder on Current shunts inside controller
Replaced Caps in controller with heavy duty 100V Caps
Verified the Fets in controller are indeed able to handle 48Volts and should be able to pull 40 amps and not blow.
Installed a resister in the controller to compensate for the voltage Change to 48V and allow the Indication lights on the throttle to still work. This however Does not correct the Controllers preset Low voltage cutout.
Throttle Indicator lights will Change From Green to yellow @ 40 Volts. The Controller However will still allow it to run until the stock setting ~30volts. Not sure how this will effect the batteries so care is needed to not over Drain.
NoteI did not make the mods to the controller myself. It was done by a friend who has more knowledge of advance electronics then I do. If you want to make the mods I can e-mail him and ask what he did exactly. But you may be better off letting someone experienced do it . He also tested the controller under a sustained load @ full power @ 35 amps. And Tested its ability to take a load @ start up. His Electronic, mechanical and mathematical estimated that 50% throttle for a take off load would not hurt the controller. He took into consideration the weight of the bike,rider,batteries, and cargo in the trailer. Once it was on the bike however the sensorless design causes the motor to shutter some @ take off. So it is suggested to either help @ take off by peddling or just man power it to a good speed to save power and strain on the controller and forks.
The Trailer
A recycled Bicycle Kid Trailer that has a steel frame and was covered in cloth. The cloth was broken down and unsafe for use with children so it was all removed leaving only a shell.
Installed 3/4 MDF on base to form a strong bottom and Formed Lexan to make a light weight cowling. Then sanded and Painted it.
Installed New Wheels with better bearings.
10" Neon Tube installed on rear for High visibility in weather and @ night.
Batteries, Charging and Wiring
4 x 12volt 18ah SLA installed in the Trailer (17lbs x 4 = 68lbs) From Batterymart
Hoping To upgrade to 48v 21AH pings this summer and install them on the Bike instead.
All Wiring is 10g heavy duty copper stranded.
Holes are drilled in the forks and frame to route the wiring inside the tubes as much as possible.
Charger is Battery Defender 48 Volt 3.5 Amp Battery Charger Battery Mart Part #: ACC-4808-SRF Installed in Trailer.
COST
Bike $99
Rear Wheel $120
Hub and Controller $310
Batteries $130
Charger $160
Lexan $55
Wiring tape splices etc etc $60
Nuts bolts Etc $30
Head light $15
Neon Light $15
Bike Computer $15
Trailer Wheels and wood for floor $60
Total $1069 (The wife said I spent $1200 so I'm sure I missed something lol)
Road Tests
The Road test was was done on the roads in my local area. I don't want to get over complicated in my plotted course but I feel that realistic use is a key to determining a true range and its capability. So here is the coarse.
Outside Temp 29 degrees F. Wind 5MPH from the east gusting to 10mph.
..Start Home
..Leaving my Apartment there is snow in the parking lot and its was rather loose and sloppy snow. About a 600 yards to leave the complex the front end was slipping and jerking threw the snow and I had to give a good deal of man power to get threw the mess.
..Leaving the Complex turning right (South) the road is traveled but not plowed well as it is a secondary street. Down hill slightly about 1/2 mile Had to go a little slower due to the snow.
..Continuing on Secondary Roads south for about about 2 miles. Roads are traveled but not plowed well had to keep speed 12-15mph for safety. Found myself Tripoding with my feet to keep from ditching threw the ruts and drifts. The motor was powering threw it with my Nubby snow tires but you could hear the load on it for sure when the snow was thick.
..Turned west for About 2 miles stopping at Stop signs as one should do roads are the same condition still @ this point. some small hills not much over 1percent or so. Hardly noticeable.
..Turned North onto a main road. AT LAST SOME CLEAN STREETS. This leg was clean clear I was able to give it full power. The Grade was slightly uphill as I was traveling away from the river that was to the south. A couple good overpasses going over the interstate and some RR tracks. kept it @ full throttle.
..Turned East for 2 miles again main roads full power Minor hills and a couple more crossing the same interstate and RR again. The last 1/2 mile is a good 4-5% grade uphill.
.. End @ home.
The ride showed ~ 7.6 miles. Stopped @ the Apartment and checked the batteries. Still going strong 45.6 volts I was amazed. So I ran it again in the other direction. ending @ home again and the batteries Checked @ 42.2 volts.
So the total trip was 15.2 miles. Top Speed (on the downhills I'm sure) 34MPH. Average Speed 13MPH. on the flat areas I was getting ~ 24-26MPH
... i am sure you would notice that 60 lb weight reduction. :lol: 
. But, you ought to get yourself some feathers, anyhow, it just completes the whole outfit. 
