The p.o.s Hailong HL-3 (Jumbo Shark) battery case - remedy or replace and with what?

[mp52]

So I'm at about 2000km with this battery and its cradle and the case is gradually falling apart. The cradle is mounted on a hard tail using the supplied rubber dampening washers between the cradle and frame. At this point it's about ready to give up the ghost but I'm reluctant to replace it like-for-like from AliExpress for about 45USD knowing it's faults. The cells themselves are fine - the battery is a Luna 52V 17.5ah, so they're glued together rather than using the case spacer, which has probably contributed to the stresses that are gradually destroying it.

Whats' busted and in order:

• Rubber USB charge port cover lost within weeks
• Movement in bullet connectors, sooting and then arcing (probably water ingress) - a bitch to find and replace this type of connector at the time.
• Small "ribs" around XLR charge surround broken away/cracked off meaning the part has had to be hot glued into the topside part of the case to remain in place.
• Some screw mounts cracked from stress/tension
• Base section of the bottom-side part of the case cracked off completely in one section around the two screw mounts.

So, I'm interested if anyone has replaced this case with something of a similar form factor and which will hold this battery configuration OR if anyone has pimped one of these cases to last better? Maybe using 3D printed replacement parts, reinforcing spars, additional dampening or similar?



Thanks

 

[maanebedotten]

I always do it the hillbilly way and just stuff battery, controller and ratsnest of wires in a saddlebag or framebag.
I do however like the idea of a lockable hardcase mounted to the frame, so a while back I got a case similar to yours intending to build a battery in it. After looking at it twice, noticing the flimsy mounting tabs and thinking about what could happen if/when that thing comes off the frame at high speed I scrapped the idea rather quickly. I do however constantly worry that someone is going to steal my battery from the saddlebag so I am considering getting my next battery in one of the frame mounted cases from em3ev as they claim to have beefier mounting hardware than others. If I do, I will probably use straps to prevent catastrophe in case the mounts fail. I would also prefer to have powerwires coming directly out of the battery to not have to worry about potential problems with the connection between battery and base.

 

[mp52]

>I always do it the hillbilly way and just stuff battery, controller and ratsnest of wires in a saddlebag or framebag.

Yes, tempting and it might ultimately come to that, but as you say - the lockable hard case is very convenient for security. Someone with enough motivation could probably still kick the hard case off its cradle with it locked and plunder the batteries but like most things "bike" it's a deterrent.

> I am considering getting my next battery in one of the frame mounted cases from em3ev
I know the one you mean (with the 8 thicker tabs) and fits 50 cells without gluing them together? I have seen that same model available from the usual Chinese suspects as well recently - can't recall which one off the top of my head though. I don't think em3ev do the case empty though do they?

> If I do, I will probably use straps to prevent catastrophe in case the mounts fail.
Yes recommend - also good for those times after you've charged the battery and mount it on the cradle but don't have the locking key on you then go for a ride forgetting to lock it :wink:

> I would also prefer to have power wires coming directly out of the battery
I have had a rare bit of trouble with the connector sooting/arcing in the past and that's using the "revised" gold bullet connector rather than the standard spade connectors (beefed up but still spade-type on the em3ev I believe). What I did do was replace the Anderson pole connectors with XT60s and put some shrink-tubing on all connections.

But yeah - a decent hard case for DIY bikes is a problem not yet solved in my view - not even in the 3D printer maker space. I'm quite keen on a Chewbacca-style Bandolier made-up of modular battery packs with conductive connections. You could carry a couple of spare segments in case a cell goes - though the charge balancing would be a challenging

 

[maanebedotten]

I don't think em3ev do the case empty though do they?

They might. I know they at least sell the mounts separately.

But yeah - a decent hard case for DIY bikes is a problem not yet solved in my view - not even in the 3D printer maker space.

I agree. A sturdy frame mounted case is definitely missing from the market. It cant be that hard to design something with a metal plate and tabs that can take some punishment. It would cost more, but I would gladly pay quite a bit for the peace of mind such a case would give me.

 

[goatman]

this is how i hung one, gives you an idea of how to reinforce it through the metal

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=103989

 

[Tommm]

Forget the mount, 2 bottle cage holes 62.5mm apart will never hold 6kg in any rough application. Put some padding under it and use heavy duty reusable zipties, or black textile tape. 0 vibration and no stress on frame.

 

[maanebedotten]

Yes, I realized that regular bottlemounts would be insufficient. My frame has no bottlemounts anyway so my plan was to drill 4 holes through the tube and use bolts to mount the slider to my frame. I dont know if I would trust rivnuts, but If there are enough of them that would probably work too.

I like how goatman did it, but for me it kind of defeats the purpose if I have to do fiberglass to secure it. Then I might as well just build a custom box from scratch.

 

[goatman]

Yes, I realized that regular bottlemounts would be insufficient. My frame has no bottlemounts anyway so my plan was to drill 4 holes through the tube and use bolts to mount the slider to my frame. I dont know if I would trust rivnuts, but If there are enough of them that would probably work too.

I like how goatman did it, but for me it kind of defeats the purpose if I have to do fiberglass to secure it. Then I might as well just build a custom box from scratch.

if youre not hanging it upside down, you dont need fiberglass. just by drilling through the metal base plate and a strap around the frame made it really solid on the bike

 

[amberwolf]

My frame has no bottlemounts anyway so my plan was to drill 4 holes through the tube and use bolts to mount the slider to my frame.

If you don't have tubes inside the holes that join the two sides of the tube you're bolting thru, there is a chance that over time the mass mounted there will "crush" the tube slightly and allow it to then begin "beating" the tubing out of shape, making it looser and looser, and damaging the tubing itself more and more. Overtightening the bolts will start this process, too.

What I would recommend instead is a clamp completely encircling the tube, that the battery and/or it's mount bolts to. There are a number of manufacturers and sellers of various types of clamps that can be used, depending on the shape and diameter of your specific tubing.

 

[maanebedotten]

if youre not hanging it upside down, you dont need fiberglass. just by drilling through the metal base plate and a strap around the frame made it really solid on the bike

Good to know, TY.

If you don't have tubes inside the holes that join the two sides of the tube you're bolting thru, there is a chance that over time the mass mounted there will "crush" the tube slightly and allow it to then begin "beating" the tubing out of shape, making it looser and looser, and damaging the tubing itself more and more. Overtightening the bolts will start this process, too.

I did not consider this, thank you for bringing it to my attention. Do you think threading the holes through the frame would solve this? Then the bolt itself would prevent the tube from deforming?

What I would recommend instead is a clamp completely encircling the tube, that the battery and/or it's mount bolts to. There are a number of manufacturers and sellers of various types of clamps that can be used, depending on the shape and diameter of your specific tubing.

I also came to this conclusion, but I fail to find suitable clamps. I really want to reduce the amount of duct-tape, hoseclamps, nylon straps and zipties on my bikes so if I could find some nice-looking clamps for securely mounting stuff to various parts on the frame I would be very happy. Do you have any suggestions on specific products?

 

[amberwolf]

Do you think threading the holes through the frame would solve this? Then the bolt itself would prevent the tube from deforming?

Probably not, because the tubing is generally either quite thin. Thicker tubing like aluminum may be soft and deform. YOu could try it and see, but in the frames I've just drilled holes in, that I didn't do the thru-tube on, I eventually had this "crushing" problem, even when I sort of self-tapped the bolts thru tight holes. (not quite the same as what you propose, but similar). You'd probably want to check with an actual mechanical engineer to be sure.

I also came to this conclusion, but I fail to find suitable clamps. I really want to reduce the amount of duct-tape, hoseclamps, nylon straps and zipties on my bikes so if I could find some nice-looking clamps for securely mounting stuff to various parts on the frame I would be very happy. Do you have any suggestions on specific products?

I don't know what exactly you need, so my best recommendation is to check first with the various custom-bike-parts companies, like Problem Solvers (they make the Travel Agent, for instance), and some of the bike companies that do touring stuff, or recumbent bike or trikes and parts, and such. I think one of the BikeE threads discusses clamps; or maybe it's Warren's recumbent thread, or Neptronix'.

There is also Mcmaster-carr; they have a bajillion mechanical thingamabobs.

But it might require something custom made if your tubing is not a standard size, or is not the same size it's entire length, or shape, or is curved enough, etc.