I like that very old school kickstand just above.
That's the kind of kickstand bikes used many decades ago.
It is perhaps a bit less convenient (??) than the forked model they still make.
Have found that the placement of my forked kickstand, fore or aft, by an inch or two,
affects in a good or bad way, the stability of the bike: that is: if it is too tall, it lifts the rear or front tire,
depending on its fore-aft placement.
I will make its final placement after I reinstall the 16 lb Ping and its basket and rack.
What matters: to not be hoisting the front wheel when in the stand-position;
this lets the front wheel with its reversed stem rotate 180 of its own accord, straining wires.
So, too, the height can be made correct: to just hold the bike without lifting the rear or front tire, much, if at all.
I will set it to barely lift the front tire only. This way the front wheel cannot 180, but only "90", if that much,
and it makes it easy, too, to shim under the kickstand with a tile or board, for free running/testing the front hub motor without load.
A pair of bungee cords, in that "test" position, keeps the front wheel pointing straight ahead.
This is a simple way of running for tests, without inverting the bike as we usually must otherwise do.
I like the forked kickstand very much. It is seemingly strong, self retracts upon take-off, and is easy to apply with the heel;
much easier to use and so much more stable, especially on turf, than a single-point, bike-leaning, conventional stand.
It will need custom fitting. Spacer, or grinding, etc. It will want, perhaps, a top, clamp plate (as you see I have done).
When I'm satisfied with the look and balance-point of this stand, I'll shape the top plate (it's 3/16" mild steel) for cosmetic conformation.
The stand and clamp will look factory-integrated to the bike.
Monty Python humour: I have tried not only a forked kickstand, but once, I used a knife kick stand. Sixty stitches.
Then I tried a spoon kickstand. Spilled my peas.
So, the fork-type, or the rear-U-type, seem to be the thing to go for.
It is possible for a rear, "U" type, depending on various factors, to rattle or bounce, when a hard tail bike takes a road beating at its tush.
Other than these above, I have no opinions on the subject. This is a good thing, to have no opinions: less confusing to all concerned, other than to myself. :wink: