Thinking of converting my 2011 XL Giant Via 1 to ebike with kit

[mbrett]

Hey all, I'm looking to use a kit to adapt a https://99spokes.com/bikes/giant/2011/via-1 2011 Giant Via 1 to a commuter ebike. My budget is less than $1,000. I just want a small assist, like a tandem push, as where I'm from (Chicago) is flat. As a total noob and basic fixaflat bicyclist, I don't need or desire anything super technologically difficult to install or maintain.

Lemme know if this sounds like a cool winter project. Lemme know if I should just brew beer again.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[Eastwood]

Looks like a solid choice for a low power set up. Go with a 500 W rear hub motor and a smaller battery mounted in the triangle where the bottle is mounted. You can mount on the rack but I think it’s best to even out the weight and keeping it lower is better. I’m not sure how far you have to commute but maybe a smaller pack to keep the weight down 13 amp hours or less. Just make sure the rear hub motor wheel works with a rim break, which most do.

As far as which kit there are many. Most of my knowledge is more with the higher power hub motor stuff so I don’t have any recommendations for a 500 W kit. Grin technologies is a solid choice. They have several options

 

[aroundqube]

Commuter bike - do you have a safe & secure place at work to store this. You have a 3-speed rear wheel, so I would go with this front , rim brake compatible kit . Chicago - https://ebikeling.com/collections/ebikeling-ebike-conversion-kit/products/500w-ebike-conversion-kits?variant=39558877413442

 

[dogman dan]

Good city bike, but since its got an IGH rear hub, your only choice is a front hub kit, if you put a hub motor on it. Something like the link in the post above.

Hub motors tend to be much easier to install, and the lower powered ones suitable for a flat city like you live in are also likely to be the most affordable.

Mid drive could work, but they tend to put abnormal wear on the IGH. So I would go with a light, lower power, more affordable 36v front hub kit. 36v will help the battery to be more affordable. 36v 10 ah would be ideal.

 

[999zip999]

I would get the 13 ah battery. And a torque arm for sure. Important
I would go with the 48v 750watt kit
You can also go to your local bike store and try a few out and see what the difference is when you're sitting in the saddle

 

[e-beach]

Ditto on the low powered front hub motor. Torque arms on both sides are a requirement not an option. Make sure the axle on the motor is suitable for the size of your fork dropouts or you will have to file the fork dropouts open. In my opinion the battery must go into the triangle of the frame for best handling. Too much weight on the bike rack makes the bike unstable. On my first e-bike build my battery was on the rack which contributed to a crash where I broke a rib.

36v and 10a to 15a in a triangle pack will get you around town to the distance of like 15 to 20 miles depending on other conditions: Air temperature, wind resistance, tire resistance, how hard you pedal etc.

There are a lot of places to get a e-bike kit, but consider ebikes.ca they are our resident experts and they are super nice people. Check out there web site and give them a call to see if they can help you out. BTW, I have never worked for them but their reputation is stellar.

 

[Eastwood]

IGH rear hub,

Ahh yeah just seeing that

 

[dogman dan]

This is what I did for EBK for 3 years, make sure people about to buy a kit did not buy one that could not fit the bike they had.

front hubs for delta trikes, and coaster brake cruisers, or IGH, belt drive, shaft drive.

Mbrett, a lower power setup won't need double torque arms, but it might need a C washer, or trimmed down tabbed washer to make it fit a fork with a deep cup, often called lawyer lips. Then just one torque arm will work fine.
Its unlikely you will need to modify your dropouts. That is usually needed only for higher power rear motors that have larger axles.


The main thing is you need to have the washers on the motor axle fit perfect, so its often a smaller washer under the main washer or torque arm.

 

[e-beach]

.... a lower power setup won't need double torque arms, ....

depends on what the OP ends up with. Low power means different things to different people. I once broke a fork arch probably due to riding with only one front hub torque arm. Now granted it was an aluminum alloy fork, but it still broke from uneven pressures. Also, if ones rear wheel suddenly locks up the rider might have a chance to skid to a stop. On the other hand if a bicycle front wheel suddenly locks up then the rider most certainly goes over the bars. I have had my front hub motored bikes lock up the front wheel twice and both times I went over the bars, and, both times I have been injured. IMO there is no reason to cheap-out on a second torque arm and take the chance.

I say pay a few extra dollars and get two torque arms.