Tire cost per mile

Boyntonstu

10 kW
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Mar 7, 2015
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549
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Boynton Beach, Florida
My 26 x 1.95 MB tires are about to wear out at 1,400 miles, very disappointing.

I want to replace them with road tires.

Will 2.125 tires fit the narrow rim?

1/8" does no seem to be a big difference.

What brand/model is long lasting?

I am looking for a cost effective tire.
 
What is the width of the rim? (also, the outside width will do, if that's all you can reach, but...the inside width is the important measurement)

GetFile.aspx
 
spinningmagnets said:
What is the width of the rim? (also, the outside width will do, if that's all you can reach, but...the inside width is the important measurement)

GetFile.aspx


Measuring where brake pads touch rims:

Front: 1.1" or 28mm

Rear with hub motor: 1.25" or 32 mm
 
Must be nice to wear out tires. I seem to find nails, screws, etc and ruin them long before the 2000 mile wear out time of a cheap ass bell tire from Walmart. Those are made by innova btw.

Move to the burbs, those construction trucks sprinkle your area with nails till the build out is finished. Not in my lifetime. :roll:
 
1400 miles is fair for a rear ebike tire. Generally, rear tires that last much longer than that do so by using harder rubber compounds that don't grip as well. There are things you can do that will make a tire last longer, though. Running them at full pressure, Using slicks, cleaning the tread after every ride, storing indoors out of UV light, Using the highest TPI available, and running the largest tire you can safely fit will all add a few miles between changes.

But if your goal is Cost per mile and only cost per mile, a $9 tire that lasts 1000 miles will beat a $100 tire that lasts 2000 miles.

Generally, you can fit a tire up to twice the outside rim width safely.
 
Rear schwalbe fat frank 2.35 on 22.5 rim.2132 miles.14½ stone,250watt.2 punctures in first 100 miles ?? None since then.

Sent from my D101 using Tapatalk
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I wear out 2 rear tires every year. About 4500 miles. Front usually makes it a year or little longer. About every 3rd rear tire.

I prefer Cyclops when they fit my bike but basically whatever “urban assault” tire can be found in my needed sizes for under $20 shipped. Not so easy when Cyclops won’t fit.

Edit to add -

Tire cost is very significant for eBike just as it is for motorcycles.

It’s easy to spend $80 DYI or over $200 shop work for rear tire on a large street moto.

My old Gl1100 burns through a rear tire about every 8k miles. Front 15-20k. I’ve personally ridden that bike 140k miles and I’m up around #17-#18 rear tire? In my case a conservative DYI estimate can easily be above $2k lifetime just for tires.

That’s very significant and one of those things that always gave me a chuckle during the “gas shortage” era. People buying motos to save money on gasoline but didn’t count on the higher costs of tires and batteries when compared to similar items on automobiles.
 
I do this analysis from time to time. The tires are by far the most expensive part. Bicycle tires are relatively quite expensive. I normally get about 2000-3000 miles our of a hookworm which yeilds about 4c/mile in tires. The total cost of ownership is somewhere around 15c/mile, so the tire cost is significant.
 
Drunkskunk said:
1400 miles is fair for a rear ebike tire. Generally, rear tires that last much longer than that do so by using harder rubber compounds that don't grip as well. There are things you can do that will make a tire last longer, though. Running them at full pressure, Using slicks, cleaning the tread after every ride, storing indoors out of UV light, Using the highest TPI available, and running the largest tire you can safely fit will all add a few miles between changes.

But if your goal is Cost per mile and only cost per mile, a $9 tire that lasts 1000 miles will beat a $100 tire that lasts 2000 miles.

Generally, you can fit a tire up to twice the outside rim width safely.

Thanks for the tips.

Is the tire rule of 2x rim widely accepted?

If so, 2.125 should fit OK on the front (1.1) and 2.4 on the rear (1.25).
 
Maxxis Hookworm from Amazon.com can be purchased a the same price as Innova/Bell from Wal-Mart.

Hookworm has both outlasted and outperformed Innova for me.

Innova is a really stretchy material allowing you to easily change out tubes using just your fingers to peel the tire off. Hookworms require tire irons due to their tougher, more motorbikey material and run the risk of ripping the tube with a spoon while you are wrestling the little bastards back onto the rim.
 
parajared said:
Maxxis Hookworm from Amazon.com can be purchased a the same price as Innova/Bell from Wal-Mart.

Hookworm has both outlasted and outperformed Innova for me.

Innova is a really stretchy material allowing you to easily change out tubes using just your fingers to peel the tire off. Hookworms require tire irons due to their tougher, more motorbikey material and run the risk of ripping the tube with a spoon while you are wrestling the little bastards back onto the rim.


In 26" they only make 2.5".

It might fit the rear but not the front.

I might pay to buy anotherfront wheel just for that tire.
 
Boyntonstu said:
Measuring where brake pads touch rims:

Front: 1.1" or 28mm

Rear with hub motor: 1.25" or 32 mm
Subtract 7mm from outside width to get inside rim width, so basically you have a 21mm front rim and a 25mm rear rim. There will be no problem with 2.125" (54mm) tire on either. You could go with a 2.4" tire on the rear but you will probably need to add a spacer for the rim brakes and it will be a tight fit on a Mongoose ledge 2.1. I took a file to mine to make a little more clearance where the tire diameter was a little too close to the swingarm brace. I don't think you'd be able to use a 2.5" hookworm, but I didn't try on mine.
 
wesnewell said:
Boyntonstu said:
Measuring where brake pads touch rims:

Front: 1.1" or 28mm

Rear with hub motor: 1.25" or 32 mm
Subtract 7mm from outside width to get inside rim width, so basically you have a 21mm front rim and a 25mm rear rim. There will be no problem with 2.125" (54mm) tire on either. You could go with a 2.4" tire on the rear but you will probably need to add a spacer for the rim brakes and it will be a tight fit on a Mongoose ledge 2.1. I took a file to mine to make a little more clearance where the tire diameter was a little too close to the swingarm brace. I don't think you'd be able to use a 2.5" hookworm, but I didn't try on mine.


Good advice based on actual experience. Thanks.

This pair for $40 delivered was worth a try.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262453794685
 
parajared said:
...
Innova is a really stretchy material allowing you to easily change out tubes using just your fingers to peel the tire off. Hookworms require tire irons due to their tougher, ...
actually, the difference is the type of material used for the tire bead:
steel (Hookworm and many others) vs. Kevlar (Bell and not as many others) I usually,as a rule, chose Kevlar for front tire because, easy peasy no tools needed... that's where flats happen most often.
I also 'break' my own rules because rules are made to be broken and cheaper always wins (usually) :pancake:
 
ddk said:
parajared said:
...
Innova is a really stretchy material allowing you to easily change out tubes using just your fingers to peel the tire off. Hookworms require tire irons due to their tougher, ...
actually, the difference is the type of material used for the tire bead:
steel (Hookworm and many others) vs. Kevlar (Bell and not as many others) I usually,as a rule, chose Kevlar for front tire because, easy peasy no tools needed... that's where flats happen most often.
I also 'break' my own rules because rules are made to be broken and cheaper always wins (usually) :pancake:


Exactly!
 
ddk said:
parajared said:
...
Innova is a really stretchy material allowing you to easily change out tubes using just your fingers to peel the tire off. Hookworms require tire irons due to their tougher, ...
actually, the difference is the type of material used for the tire bead:
steel (Hookworm and many others) vs. Kevlar (Bell and not as many others) I usually,as a rule, chose Kevlar for front tire because, easy peasy no tools needed... that's where flats happen most often.
I also 'break' my own rules because rules are made to be broken and cheaper always wins (usually) :pancake:

Are you claiming flat tires happen more frequently ("most often") on the front tire than the rear tire?
 
In my observation in the bike shop setting, rear flats outnumber front flats by about three to one.

The OP can try a thick-treaded tire like Freedom Thick Slick for more tread life, but as dogman pointed out, there are other things that will end your tires' run if tread wear doesn't.

In the accelerated wear testing that is commercial pedicab operation, Maxxis Hookworm tires seem to last longer than anything else that's commonly used. But they don't last so much longer as to justify their high price, if cost per mile is your criterion.

Maximum mileage per dollar spent would likely be from something like the Cheng Shin C241:
SF.US.423030304331354e484d.1.jpg

It's heavy, slow, and poor-handling, but it lasts a long time if you keep it inflated to spec and don't skid it more than necessary.
 
Ykick said:
ddk said:
...
I also 'break' my own rules because rules are made to be broken and cheaper always wins (usually) :pancake:

Are you claiming flat tires happen more frequently ("most often") on the front tire than the rear tire?
I am not a bike shop owner... I am a user* who's experiences have included front tire flats happening most often to me.
And most of these flats have been caused by tires breaking their bead (pinch flats) or rips around the Schrader valve where the tube has failed for reasons other than a puncture flat.
I'm not immune to rear tube failures; I just experience them less often than front tube failures, usually because I over-inflated said tube and rarely from punctures (I'm talking to you, blackberry)
Of course, others have different experiences because as always, YMMV :lol:

*My trikes have all-wheel drive, IOW a motored front wheel which may squew (skew) the averages for flats
 
If tires were sold by the mile, you would notice that hard tires with nylon gum are much cheaper. Usually cheaper to buy and lasting longer. Actually, tires are more or less sold by the weight and gum type. Soft gum is more expansive, does require a better tire construction, and does wear quickly, making sticky tires much more expansive per mile. Those who are buying sticky tires don't consider the cost per mile as relevant. They rather consider the cost of crashes in components, skin and bones.
 
MadRhino said:
If tires were sold by the mile, you would notice that hard tires with nylon gum are much cheaper. Usually cheaper to buy and lasting longer. Actually, tires are more or less sold by the weight and gum type. Soft gum is more expansive, does require a better tire construction, and does wear quickly, making sticky tires much more expansive per mile. Those who are buying sticky tires don't consider the cost per mile as relevant. They rather consider the cost of crashes in components, skin and bones.

My rides consist of 6 mile loops in a fenced community.

Almost zero traffic.

Your images do not load.
 
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