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Troy Cargo Bike

Hasherucf

🧲 New user
Joined
Apr 22, 2026
Messages
3
Location
Australia
Hi Guys,

Bought a Cargo bike ,the brand seems to be a dutch company . It was imported into Australia by a Dutch couple without the battery.


It's a hefty price of 330 euros and I am not even sure they will ship it to Australia.
The Battery UART variant : If the code starts with TAP1U, TAP2U, TAP1UB, or TAP1US.
The controller on the handlebars is a UKC3 which I have found a manual for and I have powered it up and it does work.

The Electronic controller is a a3-bd-9526c which doesn't have a manufacturer listed on it but another thread calls it a "tongsheng powertrain" . I have been unable to find a wiring manual for this yet. THis would be great if anyone could point me to a wiring manual.

The rear wheel uses a 95rx hub.

Would it be better to change battery and controller to something newer ?

First ebike so some advice would be great.

IMG_20260421_141234549_HDR.jpgIMG_20260407_023036804.jpgIMG_20260408_135804234_HDR.jpgPlug.jpgTroy V2.jpgWheel Hub.jpg
 
It's a hefty price of 330 euros and I am not even sure they will ship it to Australia.
The Battery UART variant : If the code starts with TAP1U, TAP2U, TAP1UB, or TAP1US.
The controller on the handlebars is a UKC3 which I have found a manual for and I have powered it up and it does work.

Would it be better to change battery and controller to something newer ?
yes, it would be better to swap out the battery, controller, and display. If the battery describes a communications protocol, it means the battery is meant to work with a proprietary system, which limits your choices and locks you into certain hardware. If you get a controller and display with documentation, and a non proprietary battery, you’ll have a much easier time getting it up and running. If it’s a Dutch bike, does that mean no throttle, pedal assist only?
 
Would it be better to change battery and controller to something newer ?
Most definitely yes, unless you live in a world without hills. You need more power to move that heavy trike, as I assume that's a 250w system. I assume it will be ridden under 25kph, so you would be looking for sufficient torque. I find 500w provides enough push uphill on 2-wheelers for me, but I like to be able to go up to 1200w too.

As your trike is probably an expensive bike, I'd spend the money and put a Grin All-Axle direct drive rear hub motor, paired with their base runner controller on it powered by a 48v battery of decent capacity. Set the maximum speed via the controller. With a dual twist throttle you would be in ebike heaven.

Otherwise, you can just buy a replacement 36v rack mounted battery (might need to buy a matching rack). I don't believe that battery in the original battery had any communication protocol. Another option is a
upgraded controller kit and a 48v 20ah battery.
 
G'day.

You haven't mentioned where you are or what sort of riding you wish to do, what loads, etc. That may matter. You also haven't mentioned what you know, so I can't gauge what you're already knowledgeable about, so please bear with me.

The Netherlands is flat. Much of Oz is, but not all. Melbourne and Sydney can be quite hilly, and you can find long hills throughout the continent.

Currently in Australia, all jurisdictions limit continuous motor power to 250W. I don't expect you to go hooning with that rig, so you may have some leeway with the authorities, but any encounter risks trouble. Continuous power is not maximum power - it roughly means if you keep up more than 250W your motor is supposed to melt, but it might push 1000W+ for a short time under load.

If you're just in the flats, you can ride on a 250W rated motor. If you have much of any hills with the cargo you might have in that front, you'll need some other arrangement.

You really need to define what loads you want to carry, and on what terrain, and for what length of time. Those are hard limits.

In general, you can put an adequate hub motor on (you have a hub motor now) or you can replace the cranks with a mid-drive motor that can take advantage of any gearing you have - by adding a derailleur or an internal geared hub to the back wheel.

Both approaches have their limits, but may be available.

There are other reasons to keep or switch what you use, but tell us about your worst case riding. You can spend $$ and be disappointed if you don't take this into account.
 
If it’s a Dutch bike, does that mean no throttle, pedal assist only?
Yes Pedal assist only

Currently in Australia, all jurisdictions limit continuous motor power to 250W. I don't expect you to go hooning with that rig, so you may have some leeway with the authorities, but any encounter risks trouble. Continuous power is not maximum power - it roughly means if you keep up more than 250W your motor is supposed to melt, but it might push 1000W+ for a short time under load.

If you're just in the flats, you can ride on a 250W rated motor. If you have much of any hills with the cargo you might have in that front, you'll need some other arrangement.

You really need to define what loads you want to carry, and on what terrain, and for what length of time. Those are hard limits.

They area I live in is fairly flat but the idea for this bike it to ride my two kids under two to day care. That involves some hills. I am yet to try it on this route . Will do it this weekend without a battery as a trial. The sitting position is different to other bikes so I am intersested to see how it handles hills.

I have found a Chinese manufacturer who make this batter in the past . Awaiting a reply frm them , but this may be easier to obtain.

You also haven't mentioned what you know, so I can't gauge what you're already knowledgeable about,

Work in avaition as an avionics tech. Like to think not much electronics wise is above me. Ebikes are new to me . I am very surprised at the lack of wiring manuals and documentation for modern equipment
 
Last edited:
Just a note to how this resolved . I installed a 48v smartmotion "dumb" battery with no Uart connection . Its been running well since , battery indications are fine. Starting to wonder what the Uart actually did
 
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