Tsdz2 error EO² any ideas?

[Pomathoin]

Hello, screen says EO² which I believe is relating to the hall effect sensor. It came up intermittently at first with a reboot clearing it but now it's permanent. Motor was 2nd hand and I believe it has different firmware as no limit on assistance speed.

So far I've checked;
No cracks in axle around hall sensor
Continuity of 2 pin induction ring wiring
Wiring on torque sensor plate appears ok
Motor resistance and continuity

Motor has at some point got hot enough to stretch the long bolts so thought I'd burnt it out but it works on walk mode and has 0.04ohms on all windings. Thinking now that it could be the controller itself, or the hall sensor attached to the controller. Is it possible to cause demagnetisation from excessive heat?

It's a 6 pin setup so no brake sensors.
Is there any way to read the hall outputs with my setup or do I need a VLCD5 or other screen? Maybe the programming cable and laptop?
Prices for parts seem way higher than 2 years ago so I'm looking for any ideas that don't involve just replacing bits in the hope of finding the problem.

 

[E-HP]

So the voltages on the 3 hall sensors all checked out fine?

 

[Pomathoin]

So the voltages on the 3 hall sensors all checked out fine?

I didn't check voltage. I checked resistance and continuity. I'll check voltage in a couple of hours when I get home. Thanks for the clue.

 

[E-HP]

I didn't check voltage. I checked resistance and continuity. I'll check voltage in a couple of hours when I get home. Thanks for the clue.

If it’s a hall sensors error you should test the hall sensors. They should toggle back and forth between 0v and ~5v.

 

[Pomathoin]

If it’s a hall sensors error you should test the hall sensors. They should toggle back and forth between 0v and ~5v.

Motor seems good. Phase wires all have the same resistance, and same v output when spinning with a drill. Hall wires also test good. The small g b y all show 4.99 or 0 depending on motor position.
Whats the best way to test the controller or torque sensor?

 

[Pomathoin]

No error when I leave the motor/controller 5 wire plug off. Error returns when I plug it in so I'm thinking the controller is cooked?

 

[E-HP]

No error when I leave the motor/controller 5 wire plug off. Error returns when I plug it in so I'm thinking the controller is cooked?

I would first try to determine which firmware you are running. E02 is a hall sensor error with the stock firmware, but would be a torque sensor error or something else if you are running open source firmware. I'd go to one of the ES OSF firmware threads to find out what firmware you are running before you assume the problem is the controller, or torque sensor, or something else.

TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

I start this new thread to share the new versions of TSDZ2 OSF. In common they all have the same base firmware, v7 of mspider65 which derives from 20beta1, to which I have added other changes. The most important news are: Field weakening function that allows you to pedal at high cadence...

endless-sphere.com

 

[Pomathoin]

I would first try to determine which firmware you are running. E02 is a hall sensor error with the stock firmware, but would be a torque sensor error or something else if you are running open source firmware. I'd go to one of the ES OSF firmware threads to find out what firmware you are running before you assume the problem is the controller, or torque sensor, or something else.

TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

I start this new thread to share the new versions of TSDZ2 OSF. In common they all have the same base firmware, v7 of mspider65 which derives from 20beta1, to which I have added other changes. The most important news are: Field weakening function that allows you to pedal at high cadence...

endless-sphere.com

Thanks I'll have a read through that.

I was told it was "upgraded" and more powerful than stock. Pedal assist doesn't stop at 15mph so I believe that but I don't have any flashing cable to plug into a laptop to find out. Previous owner wasn't that handy though as he did the crankseal bearing swap upgrade but managed to put it back together with circlips in the wrong place, and it seems to be missing most of the shims. Still worked fine as I've done 600+ miles on it over that last year without any real issues. Got new shims coming.

With power on but 5 pin plug disconnected from the motor, the pins from the controller read R 6.7v, and BYG all read 4.73v. That seems wrong. Why would the BYG hall wires from controller have constant voltage? Wouldn't that nullify the voltage info coming from the motor? Sorry if that's a stupid question. I have some basic knowledge but just learning how this stuff works with this ebike.

 

[E-HP]

Thanks I'll have a read through that.

I was told it was "upgraded" and more powerful than stock. Pedal assist doesn't stop at 15mph so I believe that but I don't have any flashing cable to plug into a laptop to find out. Previous owner wasn't that handy though as he did the crankseal bearing swap upgrade but managed to put it back together with circlips in the wrong place, and it seems to be missing most of the shims. Still worked fine as I've done 600+ miles on it over that last year without any real issues. Got new shims coming.

With power on but 5 pin plug disconnected from the motor, the pins from the controller read R 6.7v, and BYG all read 4.73v. That seems wrong. Why would the BYG hall wires from controller have constant voltage? Wouldn't that nullify the voltage info coming from the motor? Sorry if that's a stupid question. I have some basic knowledge but just learning how this stuff works with this ebike.

Many signal wires on the controller end (throttle, pas, brake cutoffs, etc.) will have a pull up or pull down resistor so the voltage when not attached to the motor or peripheral component is either high or low. When attached, the motors hall sensor circuit will pull the voltage down to ground, or up to 4ish volts.

 

[n00b]

Hello, screen says EO² which I believe is relating to the hall effect sensor. It came up intermittently at first with a reboot clearing it but now it's permanent. Motor was 2nd hand and I believe it has different firmware as no limit on assistance speed.

So far I've checked;
No cracks in axle around hall sensor
Continuity of 2 pin induction ring wiring
Wiring on torque sensor plate appears ok
Motor resistance and continuity

Motor has at some point got hot enough to stretch the long bolts so thought I'd burnt it out but it works on walk mode and has 0.04ohms on all windings. Thinking now that it could be the controller itself, or the hall sensor attached to the controller. Is it possible to cause demagnetisation from excessive heat?

It's a 6 pin setup so no brake sensors.
Is there any way to read the hall outputs with my setup or do I need a VLCD5 or other screen? Maybe the programming cable and laptop?
Prices for parts seem way higher than 2 years ago so I'm looking for any ideas that don't involve just replacing bits in the hope of finding the problem.

Gut it, install a square wave controller/switch/throttle and call it a day.
Komodo and and keyed throttle.
Probably doable under $60.

 

[docw009]

It's not a VLDC5 display? What display are you using? Neither the XH-18 or VLDC5 show any error codes specific to hall sensors, as far as I can see. The OSF firmware also doesn;t refer to any Hall sensor errors.
.

 

[Pomathoin]

It's not a VLDC5 display? What display are you using? Neither the XH-18 or VLDC5 show any error codes specific to hall sensors, as far as I can see. The OSF firmware also doesn;t refer to any Hall sensor errors.
.View attachment 388478

It's a VLCD6. I believe the VLCD5 can show TE and TE1 to calibrate the torque sensor. I don't know if that's possible on my head unit. I was hoping a calibration might be the answer. So far still not working but it did on one power cycle briefly, so possibly it's motor position related, but that's strange as the motor tests out fine.

 

[Pomathoin]

Just a thought. When I spun the motor with a drill and tested voltage, it was 12.6 on all 3 phases. I assumed that was due to the fixed speed of the drill I used. Now I'm wondering if they should've read between 40 and 54.6v as per 48v motor. Could I have demagnetised the rotor causing the lower voltage reading?

 

[E-HP]

Just a thought. When I spun the motor with a drill and tested voltage, it was 12.6 on all 3 phases. I assumed that was due to the fixed speed of the drill I used. Now I'm wondering if they should've read between 40 and 54.6v as per 48v motor. Could I have demagnetised the rotor causing the lower voltage reading?

How fast is your drill?

 

[docw009]

The VLDC6 display is new to me, but Google AI says that Error 2 is a stuck brake lever. I wonder where they got that. All the online display manuals for VLSDC6 appear to be in Chinese.